m 


urtiland 


THE 

MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 


By  Kamar  Al-Shimas 

Celebrated  Persian  Philosopher  and  Traveler 


An  account  of  the  author's  wander- 
ings upon,  and  of  the  plants,  animals, 
people,  commerce  and  industries  of 
the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec. 


Illustrated 


Fowlor,  Indiana 

BENTON    REVIEW   SHOP 

1922 


Copyrighted  1922 

By  the  Benton  Review  Shop 

Fowler,  Indiana 


Printed  in  U.  S.  A. 


Library 


DEDICATED 

TO 
EUNICE 

THE 

CHILD  OF  MY  HEART 


TRANSLATOR'S  FOREWORD. 

It  is  with  a  feeling  of  deep  satisfaction  that  I  lay  down 
my  pen  upon  having  translated  from  the  original  Persian  the 
last  line  of  Kamar  Al-Shimas*  great  work  on  southern  Mex- 
ico; for  not  only  is  the  field  one  hitherto  uncovered  by  any 
writer,  but  the  work  itself  is  of  such  exceptional  value,  the 
author's  insight  into  local  conditions  is  so  profound,  that  in 
making  the  translation  I  can  not  but  think  I  have  conferred 
a  special  favor  upon  all  lovers  of  Mexico. 

As  to  the  form  of  translation,  I  have  thought  it  in  the 
best  interests  of  all  concerned  that  it  be  phrased  in  the  most 
approved  modern  diction,  in  a  few  places  only,  where  the  ex- 
pression was  peculiarly  happy,  preserving  the  antique  phrase- 
ology of  the  venerable  author.  In  these  few  instances  I  feel 
sure  a  discriminating  public  will  approve  my  action. 

Not  much  need  be  said  on  behalf  of  the  original  work, 
which  speaks  for  itself.  The  field,  as  has  been  noted,  is  in 
large  measure  a  new  one.  While  the  American  reading  public 
is  annually  deluged  with  a  fresh  assortment  of  books  upon 
Mexico,  these  books  are  invariably  either  limited  to  the  north- 
ern or  central  parts  of  the  republic,  or  are  superficial  accounts 
of  the  whole  country  written  by  some  globe  trotter  who  has 
seen  much  and  noted  little.  Only  occasionally  are  as  much 
as  a  dozen  pages  devoted  to  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec.  On 
the  other  hand  the  work  of  our  master  deals  exclusively  with 
southern  Mexico.  Nor  is  this  its  only  merit;  the  author's 
style  is  in  pleasing  contrast  with  the  flamboyant,  would-be- 
witty  style  which  characterizes  so  many  travel  books  of  the 
day.  His  words  are  packed  with  information  and  no  attempt 
is  made  to  hide  a  paucity  of  matter  beneath  a  superabundance 
of  phrases. 

VII. 


VIII  TRANSLATOR'S  FOREWORD 

It  will  be  noted  that  certain  of  the  chapters  are  written 
largely  for  those  who  are  looking  to  Mexico  as  a  field  for  in- 
vestment. It  is  now  three  years  since  the  author  left  the 
Isthmus,  but  he  has  ever  since  kept  up  an  extensive  corre- 
spondence with  friends  residing  there,  thus  keeping  in  close 
touch  with  the  economic  and  commercial  situation.  Immedi- 
ately before  the  translation  went  to  press  a  conference  was 
had  between  us  and  all  changes  noted,  so  that,  with  one  excep- 
tion, the  reader  has  in  the  following  pages  an  up-to-date  sum- 
mary of  conditions  on  the  Isthmus. 

That  exception  relates  to  the  matter  of  brigandage.  At 
the  translator's  suggestion  the  author,  for  the  purpose  of 
making  the  narrative  more  vivid,  has  incorporated  several 
accounts  of  bandit  outrages.  The  bandit  then  loomed  large 
upon  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec,  but  let  the  reader  not  on 
this  account  assume  that  brigandage  is  a  permanent  institu- 
tion in  those  parts.  Time  was  when  Mexico  was  as  well  or- 
dered as  any  country  in  Europe,  and  under  the  able  adminis- 
tration of  the  reorganized  government  conditions  have  been 
rapidly  improving  and  it  will  not  be  long  before  brigandage 
is  once  more  a  thing  of  the  past. 

While  distinctively  a  travel  book,  the  chief  value  of  the 
work  lying  in  the  insight  which  it  gives  us  into  present-day 
conditions  upon  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec,  its  usefulness  is 
greatly  enhanced  by  the  history  of  the  Zapotec  Indians  re- 
counted in  the  last  twelve  chapters.  This  history  cannot  but 
prove  of  special  value  to  the  large  class  of  readers  who  are 
interested  in  the  legends  and  folk-lore  of  our  Indian  races. 

January,  1922. 

THE  TRANSLATOR. 


FROM  KAMAR  AL-SHIMAS  TO  OMAR  THE  SON  OF 
ABDULLAH. 

As  I  promised  ere  we  parted  at  Ispahan,  even  that  I  would 
write  thee  concerning  my  wanderings  and  describe  the  strange 
lands  through  which  I  might  pass,  so  now  I  am  sending  thee 
a  full  account  of  my  life  in  southern  Mexico,  wherein  it  was 
my  lot  to  sojourn  during  the  year  1918  of  the  Christian  era. 
In  going  to  Mexico  it  was  my  intention  to  visit  the  various 
cities  of  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  and  the  State  of  Chiapas, 
but  there  is  no  Might  and  there  is  no  Majesty  save  in  Allah, 
the  Glorious,  the  Great  and  my  plans  came  to  naught.  Dis- 
turbed political  conditions  and  the  consequent  difficulties  of 
travel  prevented  my  visiting  Chiapas.  But  I  had  ample  oppor- 
tunity to  look  over  Tehuantepec,  Salina  Cruz,  and  the  other 
cities  of  the  Pacific  plain  of  the  Isthmus  and  to  study  the 
strange  customs  of  the  unbelievers  who  dwell  in  those  parts. 
It  was  my  habit  to  leave  Salina  Cruz  and  visit  one  of  the  other 
cities  of  the  plain  every  Sunday  (which  is  kept  as  a  feast-day 
by  the  infidels)  and  thus  I  got  me  full  knowledge  of  the  land 
and  its  people,  and  lo,  I  have  preserved  it  for  thee,  0  son  of 
Abdullah,  in  the  first  ten  chapters  of  the  following  work.  The 
remaining  twelve  chapters  are  of  a  different  nature,  being  the 
semi-legendary  history  of  the  Zapotecs  as  it  is  found  in  the 
works  of  Burgoa,  Gay,  Del  Valle,  and  Gracida,  and  now  for 
the  first  time  translated  from  the  original  Spanish. 

KAMAR  AL-SHIMAS. 


IX. 


Jl 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 
SALINA  CRUZ 

The  approach — Northers — Fuel  Oil — Population — Mexican  character- 
istics— Festivals — The  Marimba — Posada — San  Benito's  Day — 
Sharks— Goats— Burros— Cacti— The  Pitaya  1 

CHAPTER  II. 
QUIEN  VIVE? 

The  Bandits — Troop  trains — System  of  defense — Attacks  on  Salina 
Cruz  and  Tehuantepec — Use  of  bees  in  defensive  warfare — Don 
Pepe  instructs  his  mozos — La  Brigada  Carrera — Dodging  bullets  27 

CHAPTER  III. 
TEHUANTEPEC 

An  agricultural  center — Strategically  located — Inhabitants — Archi- 
tecture— Brick-making — Homes  of  the  poor — Churches — The 
light  on  Dani  Lieza — Wretched  dogs — Sultan — The  city's  water 
department 45 

CHAPTER  IV. 

DON  CARLOS  DE  SAN  BLAS 

Buzzards  and  cacti — The  cemetery  at  Tehuantepec — A  deaf  priest — 
The  Plaza — Flower  girls — A  Tehuana  dance — The  rainbow 
women — An  avocado  orchard — Hedges — The  mucilage  berry — 
Ascent  of  Tiger  Hill — The  miracle-working  church  tower — Six 
coy  Tehuanas — Good  Friday  in  the  Holy  City — A  passion  play — 
Female  finery — The  Huipil  Grande — John  Story  defends  the 
pumps  58 

CHAPTER  V. 
FARTHER  AFIELD 

The  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec — The  Gulf  plains — The  Central  high- 
lands— Pacific  plain — The  seven  rivers  of  the  plain — A  barbecue 
at  San  Bias — San  Geronimo — A  bull  fight — Garfia  Salinas  poses 
as  a  bishop — Juchitan — A  tragedy  of  Clipperton  Island — Earth- 
quakes— Climate — Northers  73 

CHAPTER  VI. 
THE  PLANT  WORLD 

The  trees  of  the  plain — Palo-Mulato  or  balsawood — Spanish  oak — 
Lignum  vitae — Dyes  and  dyewoods — The  jecapezle — Lawn  trees 
— The  wild  cotton  tree — Flowering  trees — The  Amistad  del 
Dia — The  tree-killer — Fruits — Mangoes — The  papaya — Anonas 
— The  land  of  cool  drinks — The  great  Mexican  haw 95 

XI. 


XII  TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  VII. 
ANIMAL  LIFE 

A  sportsman's  paradise — Deer — Cats — Peccaries — Armadillo — A  nov- 
elty seeker — Tapirs — Vampires — Birds — The  zopilote — Sanates 
— The  Chichilaca — Curassows — The  frigate  bird — Iguanas;  a 
table  delicacy — Alligators — Sharks — Insects — The  plague  of 
toads— Pearls 110 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES 

Few  white  people  on  the  Isthmus — The  Zapotec  Indians — Division  of 
labor  between  the  sexes — Beautiful  women — The  Zapotec  lang- 
uage— Costume — The  wonderful  Tehuana  skirt — Honesty  a  na- 
tional trait — Intemperance — Sexual  morality — "Red  Men" — Edu- 
cation— Religion — The  Huave  Indians — Choque-Mixes — The  Pin- 
ta— The  Aztecs  119 

CHAPTER  IX. 

TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS. 

Railroads  of  the  Isthmus — Outlaws  attack  train — Don  Lemon  escapes 
with  his  money — Mahoney  makes  his  "getaway" — Terrors  of  the 
Vera  Cruz  al  Istmo — The  Pan  American  line — Plateau  of  Chia- 
pas— River  traffic  on  the  Coatzacoalcos — The  bandits  strip  Don 
Alfredo — Traveling  by  balsa — The  esteros  of  the  Pacific  shore — 
Transportation  needs — Wagon  roads — Postal  service — The  cable 
company — No  telephones — Mexican  hotels — The  menu — Polite- 
ness at  table  139 

CHAPTER  X. 

INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES 
Americans  on  the  Isthmus — The  wonderful  Coatzacoalcos  River — Op- 
portunities for  foreigners  in  southern  Mexico — Acquiring  the 
Spanish  language — Openings  for  investment — Banking — Stock 
raising — Hides — Indian  corn — Don  Jeronimo  Mahoney — Beans — 
Chili  pepper — Sugar  cane — Coffee  culture — Indigo  culture — Rub- 
ber plantations — Sisal,  Ixtle  and  Pita — Tobacco — Vanilla — 
Fruit  culture — Bananas — The  papaw — Pineapples — Coconuts — 
Bee  culture — The  lumber  industry — Mining — Salt  marshes — 
Onyx — Weights  and  Measures — Constitutional  provisions  affect- 
ing foreigners  159 

CHAPTER  XI. 
RISE  OF  THE  ZAPOTECS 

The  Valley  of  Oaxaca — Civilization  of  the  early  Zapotecs — The  na- 
tional capital — Present  desolation  of  Zaachila — Accession  of  King 
Cosijoeza — Revolt  of  Loolaa — Vengeance  of  the  Aztecs — Cosi- 
joeza  takes  Tehuantepec 196 

CHAPTER  XII. 

THE  DEFENSE  OF  QUIENGOLA 

Quiengola  fortified — The  siege  begun — Nightly  sallies — Salted  Az- 
tecs— A  bastion  of  skulls — Moctezuma  proposes  peace — Cosi- 
joeza conquers  Soconusco — Ahuitzotl  summons  his  wizards 203 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS  XIII 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
THE  QUEEN  OF  ZAPOTECA 

The  Pool  of  the  Marchioness — Coyolica  comes  from  Anahuac — The 
sign  of  the  birthmark — Alarii  visits  the  Mexican  court — Ahuit- 
zotl tries  duplicity — Coyolica  displays  the  sign — Coyolica 
brought  to  Tehuantepec — Marriage  of  Cosijoeza  and  Coyolica — 
The  Zapotecs  settle  on  the  Pacific  plain 210 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
COSIJOEZA  AND  AHUITZOTL 

Ahuitzotl  meditates  revenge — Sends  embassy  to  Zaachila — Constancy 
of  Coyolica — Flight  of  the  Embassadors — The  Aztecs  overrun  the 
southland — Birth  of  Naatipa — Death  of  Ahuitzotl — Birth  of  Cosi- 
jopii — Birth  of  Pinopaa 220 

CHAPTER  XV. 
THE  MIXTEC  REVOLT 

Cosijoeza  plans  the  revolt — Cetecpatl's  perfidy — Cuitlahuac  routed  in 
the  Pass  of  the  Serpent — His  battles  with  the  Sosoltecs — Regar- 
risons  Huaxyacac — Returns  to  Tenpchtitlan — Birth  of  the  Prin- 
cess Donaji — Revolt  of  the  three  cities — The  cunning  Mitlans ....  229 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

THE  KING  OF  TEHUANTEPEC 

Education  of  the  royal  princes — Elevation  of  Cosijopii — His  marri- 
age— Cosijopii  departs  for  his  new  kingdom — Death  of  the  prin- 
cess Pinopaa — Arrival  at  Tehuantepec — The  cult  of  Pinopaa — 
The  Inquisition — Mystery  of  the  Guixepecocha — The  priests  con- 
sult Pezelao  240 

CHAPTER  XVII. 
THE  ZAPOTEC  RELIGION 

The  writer  deprecateth  the  wrath  of  the  son  of  Abdullah — The  myth- 
ical Pecocha — He  reforms  the  Zapotec  religion — His  disappear- 
ance on  Monapoxtiac — Thought  to  have  been  the  Chinese  Fou 
Sang — Illusions  of  Gracida — The  Zapotec  pantheon — Pitao  the 
Uncreated — The  God  of  Abundance — Pezelao,  the  Oracle  of 
Heaven — The  Spirit  of  Evil — The  voice  from  the  enchanted  cave  247 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
THE  MOUNTAIN  CATS 

Cosijoeza  covets  Cuilapan — Learns  of  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards — 
A  currier  sent  to  Cosijopii — Cosijopii  dispatches  envoys  to  Zaa- 
chila— The  embassy  to  Cortez — Capture  of  Zaachila  by  the  Mix- 
tecs — Casandoo  invades  the  territories  of  Tehuantepec — Cosijopii 
begs  assistance  of  Cortez — Orozco  marches  to  relieve  the  Zapo- 
tecs— He  occupies  Huaxyacac  (Oaxaca) — An  armistice 255 

CHAPTER  XIX. 
PRINCESS  GREAT  SOUL 

Princess  Donaji  given  as  a  hostage — Orozco  besieges  Ixcuiltepec — 
Donaji  sends  a  messenger  to  Zaachila — Death  of  Donaji — A  blue 
lily  grows  from  her  blood 265 


XIV          TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  XX. 

THE  COMING  OF  ALVARADO 

Alvarado  leaves  Coyoacan  for  Oaxaca — Conquest  of  Tututepec — A 
chain  of  gold — Imprisonment  and  death  of  Casandoo — Spanish 
colony  founded  at  Tututepec — Conspiracy  against  Alvarado — The 
Chontals — Alvarado  visits  Aztata  and  Quiengola — Arrival  at 
Tehuantepec — Cosijopii  visits  the  Oracle  of  Heaven — Alvarado 
and  the  Lord  of  Jalapa — Battle  with  the  Chontals — "Conversion" 
of  Cosijopii — Expeditions  against  the  Chontals  and  Huaves — Al- 
varado returns  to  Mexico  City 271 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

THE  PASSING  OF  ZAACHILA 

Death  of  Coyolica — Return  of  the  Tututepecan  colony  to  Huaxyacac — 
Revolt  of  Tututepec — Marriage  and  death  of  Prince  Naatipa — 
Death  of  King  Cosijoeza — The  son  of  Oconana  ascends  the 
throne — Abdication  286 

CHAPTER  XXII. 
THE  FALL  OF  COSIJOPII 

Cosijopii's  generosity — Is  stripped  of  his  power — The  priests  of  Mit- 
la — Cosijopii  betrayed — His  arrest — Rising  of  the  people — The 
king  calms  the  multitude — He  appeals  to  the  Crown  of  Spain — 
Judgment  of  the  Royal  Audience — Death  of  Cosijopii — An  auto 
de  f e — Remorse  of  Friar  Bernardo — The  children  of  Cosijopii . . .  294 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


A  Plantation  Scene  Near  Tehuantepec  Frontispiece 

Facing  Page 

The  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec' X 

The  Salina  Cruz  Harbor 4 

A  Ship  in  the  Salina  Cruz  Dry  Dock  4 

A  Birdseye  View  of  Salina  Cruz  4 

The  Light  House  at  Salina  Cruz  12 

Main  Street  Salina  Cruz 20 

The  Principal  Street  in  Salina  Cruz 20 

The  Salina  Cruz  Market  is  Enclosed.    Few  on  the  Isthmus  are  20 

Salina  Cruz  and  Vicinity 28 

Savage  Woman  of  the  Mountains.  Other  Races  of  the  Isthmus  are 

Inferior,  to  the  Zapotec  36 

Church  of  San  Sebastian  Tehuantepec  40 

Cathedral  of  Santa  Domingo,  Tehuantepec 40 

Railroad  Bridge  and  the  City  of  Tehuantepec  in  the  Background  ....  52 

San  Bias  a  Suburb  of  Tehuantepec  52 

A  Chapel  on  the  Hill,  Santa  Maria  60 

A  Street  Scene  in  Tehuantepec  60 

American  Consulate,  Salina  Cruz  60 

A  Little  Tehuana  in  National  Zapotec  Costume  68 

Two  Damsels  of  Tehuantepec  in  Gorgeous  Tehuana  Costumes  68 

Vegetation  is  Luxuriant  Along  the  Waterways 76 

A  Pastoral  Scene  on  the  Isthmus  76 

Lake  Oaxaquena,  near  Santa  Lucrecia  76 

The  City  Park  at  Juchitan,  Lambimbo  Trees  in  the  Foreground  84 

XV. 


XVI  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

The  Establishment  of  some  of  the  Merchants  are  Quite  Pretentious  84 

A  Watering  Station  on  the  Great  Transportation  Route 92 

The  Jaltepec  River  is  a  Beautiful  Stream  92 

The  Water  Carriers  of  Tehuantepec 92 

Coconut  Palms  grow  Luxuriantly  on  the  Isthmus 100 

Headquarters  of  a  Prosperous  Isthmus  Plantation  108 

A  Banana  Plantation  : 108 

Cultivating  the  Young  Sugar  Cane  Plants 108 

Pelicans  are  Plentiful  and  Tame  along  the  Coast 116 

The  Bats  are  Another  Scavenger,  Attacking  Humans  as  well  as  In- 
sects after  Dark  116 

Buzzards  the  Great  Isthmus  Scavenger,  as  tame  as  Domestic  Fowl  ....  120 

Senor  Bigote,  the  Renowned  Gringo  Viajero,  Dressed  to  ascend  to 
the  Crater  of  Popocatepetl 122 

A  Peon's  well  kept  Home  124 

A  Tehuana  of  the  Upper  Class  in  full  Ruffled  Skirt 132 

A  Zapotec  Girl  from  the  Highlands  Showing  Wrapped  Skirt  132 

A  Bride  of  Tehuantepec,  the  Upper  Garment  is  Evidently  Derived 

from  Old  Spain 132 

A  Street  Scene  in  San  Geronimo,  Railroad  Ties  are  an  Article  of 

Commerce     : ...  140 

A  Sugar  Plantation  Railroad,  a  Substantial  Affair  140 

The  Primitive  Cart  and  Oxen  are  the  Common  Means  of  Transpor- 
tation   140 

Bananas  on  their  way  to  Market  Down  the  River  148 

The  Dry  Dock  at  Salina  Cruz,  the  Largest  on  the  Mexican  West 

Coast     148 

Mammoth  Electric  Cranes  on  the  Wharf  Make  the  Salina  Cruz  Har- 
bor Economical  148 

The  Market  Building  at  San  Geronimo  156 

Little  Tehuanas  Accompanied  by  one  of  the  Lords  of  Creation  Who 

Lacks   his   Pants   156 

The. Only  Modern  Brewery  on  the  Isthmus,  Some  of  Those  Unused  in 

the  United  States  could  be  Moved  Down  ...  ..  164 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS  XVII 

Cutting  Sugar  Cane  Near  Tehuantepec  172 

Sugar    Cane   Plantation    Offers    Big   Business    Possibilities,   Young 

Sugar  Cane  on  the  Oaxaquena  Plantation  172 

A  Kind  of  Vehicle  Very  Common  on  the  Streets  180 

A  High  Toned  String  Band  on  the  Isthmus.    Note  the  Headwear  ....  180 

The  Post  Office  and  Telegraph  Station  180 

Bananas  are  Often  Carried  from  the  Field  188 

In  the  Oaxaquena  Sugar  Factory  Everything  is  Modern — Cane  Un- 

loader  at  Work  188 

The  Peons  Working  on  the  Sugar  Plantations  Have  no  Labor-sav- 
ing Tools.     Loading  Cane  188 

The  Church  of  San  Pedro  Vixaana,  Tehuantepec,  The  Men  do  not  go 

into  the  Church  and  have  an  Awning  for  their  Comfort  196 

The  Church  of  the  Laborio  at  Tehuantepec,  The  Palms  form  part  of 

the  picture  196 

Three  Happy  Flower  Girls  of  Tehuantepec  200 

A  Face  of  Mystery  204 

A  Maiden  of  the  Noble  Zapotec  Race  204 

Indian  Maid  with  Jecapezle  prepared  to  visit  the  Market  212 

Middle   aged    Zapotecs.      Mango   held    on   a    Mango    Fork,    Readily 

handled     212 

Zapotec  Beauty  and  American  Gold  220 

A  Middle  Aged  Zapotec  Lady 220 

In  the  Suburb  of  Tehuantepec  228 

Another  of  the  Numerous  Churches  of  Mexico  at  San  Geronimo,  Te- 
huantepec       236 

The  Church  of  Juchitan  236 

Fair  Face  and  Flow_ers,  A  Child  of  the  Holy  City 244 

A  Happy  Daughter  of  the  Sun  244 

A  Mountain  Girl  with  Ancient  Zapotec  Costume  252 

A  Quarter  Blood  Italian  and  Zapotec  Blooded  girl  with  Pure  white 

Skin   252 

A  Rainbow  Lady,  the  fan  is  used  as  protection  against  the  sun 252 

A  Florist  of  the  Isthmus  ..  -  260 


XVIII  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

Living  Flowers  of  the  Isthmus  260 

Ruins  of  Mitla  where  Cosijoeza  was  buried  268 

Another  View  of  Mitla  Ruins    the    Seat    of    the    Zapotec    Ancient 

Splendor   268 

Butterfly  Women  282 

A  Rich  Zapotec  Maiden,  Note  the  Jewels 282 

A  Neat  Little  Tehuana  282 

Pancha,  A  Belle  of  Santa  Maria 290 

A  Tehuana  in  Middle  life - 290 

A  Tehuantepec  Maid  Decked  with  U.  S.  Gold  Coins 290 

A  Full  Blood  Zapotec  of  San  Geronimo  _ 296 

A  Zapotec  Type  with  Elaborately  Embroidered  dress  296 


The 

Mexican  Southland 


The  Mexican  Southland. 

CHAPTER  1 

SALINA  CRUZ. 

AS  your  ship  beats  eastward  along  the  southern  coast 
of  Oaxaca  the  scene  continually  changes  yet  is  ever 
the  same.  Mountain  succeeds  mountain,  seemingly 
without  end,  for  you  are  coasting  the  Switzerland  of  America, 
the  home  of  those  rugged  mountaineers,  the  Zapotecs  who  for 
so  many  generations  successfully  withstood  the  conquering 
armies  of  Tenochtitlan.  Fold  on  fold  the  ridges  sweep  away 
toward  the  interior,  rising  ever  higher  to  where  on  the  distant 
horizon  the  mountain  monarchs  sit,  their  peaks  rising  to 
heights  of  ten  and  twelve  thousand  feet  and  bathed  in  that 
pearly  light  which  renders  the  Mexican  cordilleras  so  uniquely 

beautiful. 

From  these  mountains,  after  you  pass  Puerto  Angel  east- 
bound,  transverse  ridges  stretch  toward  the  sea,  ending  in  bold 
promontories,  and  between  each  pair  of  promontories  nestles 
a  bay.  The  last  of  these  headlands  before  reaching  the  plains 
of  Tehuantepec  are  Salina  Cruz  and  Ventosa  points.  Between 
them,  partly  sheltered  from  the  northern  gales,  lies  the  port 
of  Salina  Cruz. 

The  only  natural  feature  of  this  port  which  is  worthy  of 
note  is  Salina  Cruz  Point,  a  bare  granitic  promontory  rear- 
ing its  head  some  two  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Capped 
by  the  harbor  lighthouse,  it  is  a  thing  of  beauty,  reminding 
one  of  the  bleak  coast  scenes  of  the  northland.  Many  a  wave 


2  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

has  it  breasted,  for  when  storm  afflicts  the  Pacific  the  waves 
borne  along  by  a  strong  southwest  current  fall  upon  it  with 
fury  and  the  sands  of  the  sea  are  piled  up  its  flanks  to  a 
height  of  over  a  hundred  feet.  This  same  current  rounds  the 
point  and  does  not  rest  until  it  has  carried  its  burden  of  sand 
on  into  the  harbor,  which  is  kept  open  only  by  continuous 
dredging. 

Some  three  or  four  miles  to  the  northwest,  between  the 
Salinas  del  Marques  (Saltflats  of  the  Marquis)  and  the  plains 
of  Tehuantepec,  runs  a  spur  from  the  mountains  of  Oaxaca. 
At  that  point  the  crest  is  crowned  by  an  immense  block  of 
phonolite  which  seen  from  the  sea  has  the  appearance  of  a 
house-chimney,  while  from  the  plains  it  resembles  the  headless 
bust  of  a  woman.  The  Indians  call  this  natural  phenomenon 
Xunirahui,  after  a  famous  Zapotec  woman  of  the  olden  time. 
A  couple  of  miles  southeast  of  this  landmark  the  mountain 
ridge  divides,  one  spur  passing  to  the  west  of  Salina  Cruz  and 
another  to  the  east,  terminating  in  the  two  points  mentioned. 

Salina  Cruz  lies  thus  in  an  arid  little  basin  surrounded 
by  arid  hills  some  five  or  six  hundred  feet  in  height,  covered 
with  stunted  trees  and  gigantic  cacti.  The  place  is  noted  for 
the  violence  of  its  sand  storms.  Indeed  for  at  least  six  months 
of  the  year,  during  fully  three  days  out  of  ten  the  "northers" 
blow  with  frightful  velocity,  driving  the  sand  in  clouds  and 
cutting  the  streets  to  the  bare  rock.  The  trees  in  the  public 
park  are  canted  over  to  the  south  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  de- 
grees, and  when  the  wind  blows  no  one  ventures  abroad  with- 
out automobile  goggles. 

It  is  a  mercy  that  the  northers  do  blow,  for  Salina  Cruz 
lies  on  the  sixteenth  parallel  and  when  the  winds  cease  to  blow 
the  weather  quickly  becomes  torrid.  Ladies  rarely  move  about 
before  nightfall.  Strange  to  say,  while  in  the  cooler  regions 


SALINA  CRUZ  3 

of  the  central  plateau  women  wear  hats,  on  the  Isthmus,  where 
they  need  them  more,  a  hatted  female  is  never  seen.  The  ordi- 
nary head  covering  is  a  thick  veil,  the  manta  or  reboso,  which 
is  no  protection  whatever  against  the  scorching  sun.  When 
the  poor  creatures  find  it  necessary  to  go  abroad  in  the  heat 
of  the  day  they  often  make  a  picturesque  but  pitiable  attempt 
to  shield  themselves  from  the  sun's  rays  with  the  indispensable 
fan  or  a  tiny  parasol.  Poor  things,  they  are  still  in  bondage; 
almost  as  much  as  though  their  feet  were  bound  like  those  of 
the  heathen  Chinese.  The  hat,  in  the  days  to  come,  shall  be 
their  liberator. 

The  basin  in  which  the  city  lies  is  absolutely  barren. 
Neither  water  nor  food  products  are  obtainable  in  the  near 
vicinity.  The  city's  waterworks  are  located  at  Tehuantepec, 
twelve  miles  distant,  whence  an  abundant  supply  of  crystal 
pure  water  is  pumped  to  Salina  Cruz.  Everything  in  the  na- 
ture of  fruit  and  vegetables  is  also  brought  from  Tehuantepec. 
All  night  long  bull  carts  laden  with  produce  wend  their  way 
toward  the  port  to  provide  the  next  day's  supply  of  food.  Were 
this  traffic  interrupted  for  forty-eight  hours,  a  state  of  famine 
would  exist  at  Salina  Cruz. 

It  is  a  new  town.  A  half  century  back,  when  the  members 
of  the  Shufeldt  expedition  visited  the  place,  it  was  a  mere 
hamlet  of  some  half  dozen  huts.  The  Indians  of  pre-Castilian 
times  did  not  navigate  the  seas  and  required  no  ports,  and  the 
single  port  of  Acapulco  sufficed  to  meet  the  needs  of  New 
Spain. 

Salina  Cruz  is  the  work,  not  of  nature,  but  of  man.  It  is 
the  work  largely,  I  am  almost  tempted  to  say  solely,  of  the 
great  English  house  of  Pearson  and  Son,  which  built  the  rail- 
road across  the  Isthmus  and  constructed  the  great  harbor 
works  at  Puerto  Mexico  and  Salina  Cruz.  The  port  works  at 


4  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Salina  Cruz  consist  of  an  outer  and  an  inner  harbor,  of  138  and 
69  acres,  respectively,  separated  by  a  wharf  3,300  feet  in 
length.  On  this  wharf  are  six  immense  warehouses,  each  420 
feet  in  length  by  105  feet  in  breadth;  floor  space  of  each, 
44,100  square  feet.  The  outer  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  600 
feet  in  width  and  the  inner  entrance  100  feet.  Two  cantilever 
bridges  span  the  latter,  permitting  the  movement  of  cars  along 
the  whole  length  of  the  water  front,  while  eighteen  electric 
cranes  on  the  track  next  the  inner  basin  facilitate  the  prompt 
loading  and  discharge  of  cargo.  The  normal  tides  are  four 
feet,  increased  to  six  feet  when  the  south  wind  blows.  At  low 
tide  there  is  thirty-two  feet  of  water  alongside  the  wharves. 

Salina  Cruz  is  one  of  the  very  few  points  on  the  Pacific 
coast  of  North  America  where  ships  can  bunker  with  fuel  oil. 
The  oil  is  brought  by  train  from  Minatitlan  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Isthmus  and  stored  in  a  46,000-barrel  tank,  whence  it 
is  led  to  ship's  side  by  a  pipe  line.  The  pipe  line  runs  half  the 
length  of  the  wharf,  thus  enabling  three  ships  to  take  oil  at 
the  same  time. 

Connecting  with  the  inner  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  dry- 
docks  on  the  Pacific  coast,  while  there  are  over  twenty-five 
miles  of  terminal  tracks  on  and  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
wharf. 

These  port  works  were  completed  in  1908.  At  that  time 
the  Panama  Canal  was  still  unfinished,  the  Tehuantepec  route 
afforded  the  cheapest  transportation  from  the  Orient  and  the 
islands  of  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic  seaboard,  and  profound 
peace  prevailed  in  Mexico.  No  sooner  was  the  port  completed 
than  the  Hawaiian  Islands  began  to  ship  their  enormous  sugar 
output  via  the  Hawaiian-American  steamship  line  and  the 
Tehuantepec  Railroad  to  New  Orleans  and  beyond.  The  harbor 
was  full  of  freighters,  the  population  of  Salina  Cruz  grew  by 


Bird's-eye  View  of  Salina  Cruz 

i 


£* 


A  Ship  in  the  Salina  Cruz  Dry  Dock 


SALINA  CRUZ  5 

leaps  and  bounds,  from  a  mere  fishing  village  to  a  city  of  six 
thousand  souls,  and  no  less  than  eighteen  trains  entered  or 
departed  from  the  place  daily. 

But  the  prosperity  of  the  place  was  short-lived.  In  April 
of  1914,  coincident  with  the  occupation  of  Vera  Cruz  by  Amer- 
ican forces,  the  "Gringos"  fled  from  the  Isthmus,  and  they 
have  not  returned.  Meanwhile  the  continuance  of  disturbed 
conditions  within  the  country,  the  opening  of  the  Panama 
Canal,  and  the  disturbance  of  commerce  occasioned  by  the 
great  war  in  Europe,  have  combined  to  prevent  the  resumption 
of  traffic  on  the  Isthmus. 

Salina  Cruz  is  very  quiet  today.  There  is  some  inbound 
movement  of  sugar  from  Salvador  and  Peru  and  tobacco  from 
Tepic,  and  some  coffee  moves  outbound  from  Chiapas  through 
Salina  Cruz  to  San  Francisco ;  but  other  traffic  there  is  none. 
Public  opinion  is  pessimistic.  It  is  felt  that  the  Tehuantepec 
route  can  never  compete  with  the  Panama  Canal.  This  is 
doubtless  true,  yet  I  am  satisfied  that  when  normal  conditions 
are  restored  this  route  will  still  be  able  to  command  a  fair 
share  of  through  traffic ;  and  with  that  restoration,  and  with 
her  fecund  soil  and  gracious  climate,  the  population  of  the 
Isthmus  should  multiply  twentyfold  and  her  local  traffic  in- 
crease accordingly. 

Nor  should  we  forget  that  there  is  no  port  south  of  Salina 
Cruz  to  the  Guatemalan  border,  a  distance  of  over  two  hun- 
dred miles,  nor  any  suitable  port  to  the  north  short  of  Mazat- 
lan.  Although  Acapulco  possesses  one  of  the  finest  natural 
harbors  in  the  world,  it  is  inaccessible  from  the  interior ;  and 
Manzanillo,  the  next  port  to  the  north,  is  unhealthy  and  lacks 
space  for  development.  For  these  reasons  Salina  Cruz  is 
destined  to  remain,  what  it  now  is,  the  second  port  of  the  west 
coast  of  Mexico. 


6  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Such  was  the  Salina  Cruz  which  I  visited  in  December  of 
1917.  The  city  itself  lay  a  half  mile  back  from  the  port. 
Grouped  about  the  business  center  were  the  establishments  of 
the  principal  merchants  of  the  place,  while  a  block  further  up 
the  main  street  we  passed  on  our  right  the  station  of  the  Cen- 
tral and  South  American  Cable  Company,  picturesquely  perch- 
ed on  a  high  rock  which  at  that  point  jutted  from  the  hills 
which  confined  the  city  on  the  east.  A  little  further  on  we 
came  to  the  public  school  just  beyond  which,  on  opposite  sides 
of  the  street,  were  the  post  office  and  the  American  consulate ; 
the  latter  a  two-story  building  surrounded  with  broad  piazzas 
and  embowered  in  flowering  trees. 

Diagonally  across  from  the  consulate  lay  the  little  park 
where  the  elite  of  Salina  Cruz  congregated  nightly  for  the 
evening  promenade  so  characteristic  of  Latin  life.  A  broad 
walk  bordered  the  park  and  there  in  the  cool  of  the  evening, 
their  beauty  half  revealed  and  half  concealed  by  the  electric 
lights,  the  belles  of  the  town  foregathered  and  promenaded 
under  the  watchful  eyes  of  their  elders.  A  difficult  trysting 
place  you  may  perhaps  think,  yet  this  was  the  recognized 
courting  place  of  the  town.  All  the  young  gallants  were  there, 
tipping  their  hats,  politely  accosting  the  young  ladies  as  they 
passed,  and  exchanging  covert  glances.  This  is  about  the 
limit  of  which  courting  is  permitted  among  the  upper  classes 
of  the  tropics,  and  yet  I  doubt  not  but  that  the  young  people 
have  adjusted  themselves  to  these  conditions  and  get  just  as 
far  as  their  northern  cousins  do  with  their  freer  manners. 

This  evening  function  is  not  at  all  exclusive.  True,  only 
those  of  the  upper  class  promenade,  but  the  seats  adjoining  the 
walk  are  always  filled  with  Indian  men  and  women  of  the  lower 
class,  who  seem  to  extract  as  much  enjoyment  from  the 
pageant  as  the  elite  themselves. 

A  block  beyond  the  consulate  we  come  to  the  Hotel  Salina 


SALINA  CRUZ  7 

Cruz,  the  town's  leading  hostelry.  Here,  except  for  short  trips 
to  Tehuantepec,  San  Geroninio,  and  other  cities  of  the  vicinity, 
I  abode  during  my  year's  stay  on  the  Isthmus.  A  detailed 
description  of  the  hotel  is  given  further  on  in  our  narrative; 
suffice  to  state  at  this  point  that  I  was  careful  to  choose  a 
room  on  the  north  side  of  the  building,  that  most  remote  from 
the  business  center  of  the  town. 

As  will  appear  later  on,  I  had  a  canny  reason  for  making 
this  choice.  The  city  cuartel  or  barracks  was  situated  near 
the  municipal  center.  Whenever  the  bandits,  rebels  or  revo- 
lutionists— a  species  of  individuals  fairly  numerous  at  that 
time — staged  an  attack  on  the  town  it  was  their  custom  to 
enter  by  detachments  through  the  defiles  of  the  surrounding 
hills,  converging  upon  the  cuartel.  As  soon  as  the  garrison 
became  aware  of  their  approach  a  hail  of  lead  belched  from  the 
cuartel  and  any  civilian  so  unfortunate  as  to  occupy  a  room 
with  windows  opening  toward  the  cuartel  was  apt  to  be  found 
by  a  stray  ball.  But  the  writer,  sitting  on  the  floor  of  his 
bedroom  with  three  solid  hotel  walls  intervening  between  him 
and  the  scene  of  operations,  could  smoke  his  pipe  and  await 
the  outcome  with  philosophic  equanimity. 

At  that  time  Salina  Cruz  was  the  only  point  at  which 
travelers  coming  from  the  central  plateau  could  secure  pas- 
sage to  the  west  coast  of  South  America.  The  only  ships  reg- 
ularly carrying  passengers  to  South  America  were  those  of 
the  Japanese  line,  which  only  touched  at  Salina  Cruz  every 
second  month;  with  the  result  that  travelers  were  often  de- 
tained at  the  hotel  for  several  weeks.  Early  in  the  summer 
three  individuals  with  whom  I  was  destined  to  become  inti- 
mately acquainted  blew  in  from  the  plateau.  Mr.  Peter  Alli- 
son of  San  Luis  Potosi  was  on  his  way  to  Peru  to  take  up  his 
duties  as  superintendent  at  the  Cerro  de  Pasco  mine,  and  he 


8  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

had  with  him  a  tall  Swede  named  Abrahamson  and  a  young 
Scotchman  whose  surname  I  have  forgotten,  but  whose  first 
name  was  Angus.  With  that  readiness  to  confer  titles  peculiar 
to  the  tropics  we  forthwith  dubbed  them  Don  Pedro,  Don 
Abrahamson,  and  Don  Angus. 

Our  friends  were  delayed  many  weeks  awaiting  ship. 
Presently  time  began  to  hang  very  heavily  on  their  hands  and 
they  vented  their  spleen,  as  men  will  under  such  circumstances, 
upon  the  devoted  republic  in  which  they  were  unwillingly 
sojourning.  Don  Angus  was  the  loudest  in  his  complaints. 
He  differed  from  any  other  Scot  I  have  ever  met  in  that  money 
would  not  stick  to  him — in  fact  Don  Pedro  informed  me  that 
he  could  with  difficulty  prevent  him  from  spending  his  last 
cent — but  he  was  a  typical  Scotchman  in  being  frank  to 
bluntness. 

"When  the  devil  is  that  ship  ever  going  to  put  in  her  ap- 
pearance?" he  would  exclaim.  "Here  we  are,  marooned  in 
this  miserable  hole  with  every  avenue  of  escape  cut  off.  No 
escape  by  sea,  or  by  land  either,  for  the  whole  country  is 
literally  alive  with  rebels  and  bandits.  It's  Peru  for  me ;  Peru, 
where  they  have  no  revolutions  and  where  the  natives  tumble 
over  one  another  to  favor  a  Gringo !" 

At  that  time,  the  three  dons  were  the  only  English-speak- 
ing guests  at  the  hotel,  but  I,  who  have  a  ready  knowledge  of 
that  tongue,  could  see  from  the  worried  looks  of  our  fellow 
guests  that  they  understood  enough  of  the  language  to  know 
that  Peru  and  Mexico  were  being  compared  to  the  detriment 
of  their  own  country.  So  when  Don  Angus  got  too  uproarious 
I  would  take  up  the  cudgels  for  Mexico,  dwelling  upon  its 
salubrious  climate  and  the  urbanity  of  its  people.  But  I  never 
got  far  with  this  line  of  talk.  Don  Pedro  and  Don  Abraham- 
son  invariably  came  to  the  support  of  their  companion  and 


SALINA  CRUZ  9 

listening  to  them  it  was  not  long  before  I  began  to  picture 
Peru  as  a  veritable  paradise. 

After  having  sung  the  glories  of  Peru  for  a  full  month 
their  ship  came  into  port  and  the  three  dons  took  their  depart- 
ure. I  verily  never  expected  to  see  them  in  this  world  again — • 
nor,  since  they  were  unbelievers,  in  the  other  world  either. 
What,  then,  was  my  surprise  when,  four  months  later  and  a 
few  minutes  after  a  northbound  Japanese  liner  had  entered 
port,  the  hotel  entrance  was  darkened  by  no  less  a  personage 
than  the  redoubtable  Don  Pedro  of  San  Luis  Potosi.  The  wild 
Scot  was  at  his  heels. 

"Well,  well!  What  brings  you  fellows  back  so  soon?"  I 
asked  as  we  shook  hands.  "You  have  barely  had  time  to  go  to 
Peru  and  return." 

"That's  where  you're  right,"  Don  Pedro  responded.  "We 
had  barely  reached  Cerro  de  Pasco  when  the  thin  air  at  that 
high  altitude — you  know  it's  14,000  feet  above  sea  level — got 
the  better  of  me  and  I  had  to  beat  it  for  the  coast.  Barely 
reached  there  in  time  to  save  my  life.  And  Abrahamson  met 
with  an  accident  and  smashed  his  ribs,  and  Angus  was  totally 
disgusted  with  the  country.  Take  it  from  me,  we're  mighty 
glad  to  see  the  shores  of  good  old  Mexico  once  more ;  eh,  Angus, 
my  boy?" 

"I  should  say  we  were,"  responded  that  young  man.  "Mex- 
ico looks  good  to  me.  Seems  like  home  to  be  back  in  a  civilized 
land  once  more." 

All  that  day  and  evening  they  sang  the  glories  of  Mexico, 
nor  was  there  a  word  said  of  the  "revolutions,"  "vile  climate," 
and  "beastly  winds"  of  the  Isthmus.  It  was  neither  the  first 
nor  the  last  occasion  upon  which  I  have  known  men's  thoughts 
to  color  their  surroundings.  In  the  morning  they  took  their 


10  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

i 

departure  for  San  Luis  Potosi  and  a  few  days  later  Abraham- 
son,  landing  from  the  next  boat,  followed  in  their  wake. 

The  city's  present  population  does  not  exceed  three  thou- 
sand souls,  of  which  at  least  two-thirds  are  full-blooded  In- 
dians. There  are  not  more  than  two  hundred  pure  whites, 
and  of  these  the  Europeans  and  Americans  do  not  exceed  a 
score,  all  told.  There  are  small  colonies  of  Syrian  (Turco") 
and  Chinese  merchants.  The  remainder  of  the  population  is 
mestizo.  This  latter  term  is  misleading,  for  the  Mexican  does 
not  follow  the  three-fold  classification  of  population  universal 
in  works  upon  Mexico.  To  him  there  are  but  two  classes,  white 
and  Indian,  the  mestizo  (mixed  blood)  being  accounted  white. 
His  viewpoint  is  correct,  for  the  mixed  blood  almost  invari- 
ably adopts  the  dress,  customs,  language,  and  ways  of  think- 
ing of  the  white  man.  The  mestizo,  in  these  parts  at  least, 
is  very  dark,  almost  as  dark  as  the  Indian,  but  he  is  an  Indian 
in  no  other  respect. 

Much  has  been  written  about  the  bad  traits  of  the  mestizo. 
I  cannot  speak  for  other  parts  of  the  Republic,  but  at  Salina 
Cruz  I  found  him  in  no  respect  inferior  to  the  other  elements 
of  the  population.  Many  of  the  best  people  were  of  mixed 
blood. 

One  will  wander  far  before  finding  a  people  as  polite  and 
gracious  as  the  Mexicans.  And  their  politeness  is  not  a  mat- 
ter of  training,  as  with  us;  it  is  inborn,  innate.  The  self- 
consciousness  of  the  Teuton  is  not  present.  Nothing  is  more 
common  than  to  see  a  little  child  of  three  years,  upon  being 
introduced  into  a  circle  of  her  elders,  make  the  round  of  the 
company,  extending  her  hand  and  bidding  each  a  pleasant 
"Buenas  tardes"  without  the  slightest  shade  of  embarrass- 
ment. The  smallest  urchin  on  the  streets,  if  asked  his  name, 
gives  it  without  the  least  hesitation,  always  adding  "servidor 


SALINA  CRUZ  11 

de  usted — your  servant" — where  your  American  boy  would 
suck  his  thumb  and  look  silly — and  the  poorest  Indian  on  the 
trail  expects  to  be  politely  accosted  in  passing. 

Some  weeks  after  taking  up  my  residence  in  Salina  Cruz 
I  arose  early  one  morning  for  a  walk  before  breakfast.  Pass- 
ing up  the  Tehuantepec  road  I  ascended  the  hill  which  over- 
looked the  city  from  the  north.  I  had  gained  the  summit  and 
was  beginning  to  descend  the  north  slope  when  I  perceived  an 
Indian  approaching  me.  He  was  carrying  a  naked  knife  in 
one  hand.  The  blade  was  easily  eighteen  inches  long  and  had 
a  sharp  point.  Frankly,  I  did  not  like  the  looks  of  that  knife. 

I  was  unarmed.  There  was  no  one  in  sight  and  I  must 
admit  that  a  creepy  feeling  came  over  me.  Fortunately  at 
this  juncture  I  bethought  me  that  Allah  appointeth  all  things 
and  that  it  is  not  permitted  unto  any  mortal  to  die  until  the 
Day  written  in  the  Book,  else  had  I  turned  tail  and  fled;  in- 
stead of  which  I  screwed  up  my  courage  and  approached  him 
with  every  appearance  of  unconcern.  My  fears  were  ground- 
less. 

"Muy  buenas  tardes,  senor — A  very  good  morning,  sir," 
he  said,  doffing  his  hat  politely. 

He  stuck  his  knife  in  the  ground  and  producing  a  package 
of  cigarettes,  offered  me  one.  In  Mexico  an  offer  of  cigarettes 
is  considered  essential  when  gentlemen  meet.  I  reciprocated 
the  honor  by  striking  a  match  and  holding  it  to  his  cigarette, 
and  then  we  seated  ourselves  on  the  ground  for  a  social  chat. 

My  new  acquaintance  was  a  man  past  sixty,  a  denizen' 
of  the  little  town  of  Huilotepec,  a  village  on  the  lower  course  of 
the  Tehuantepec  River  plainly  visible  from  where  we  sat.  All 
his  life  long,  he  said,  he  had  been  a  charcoal  burner,  making 
charcoal  in  the  neighborhood  of  Huilotepec  and  carrying  it  on 
his  back  all  the  way  to  Salina  Cruz,  there  to  be  sold  in  the  mar- 


12  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

ket  as  fuel.  I  agreed  with  him  that  it  was  a  hard  life.  Alas  that 
it  is  so !  The  Indian  is  the  burden  bearer  of  Mexico ;  he  pro- 
duces all  that  is  produced,  and  that  by  the  most  primitive  and 
laborious  methods,  and  then  receives  a  mere  pittance  for  his 
toil. 

After  a  time  the  old  man  arose,  saluted  once  more  with 
the  air  of  a  hidalgo,  and  picking  up  his  knife  passed  up  the 
hill  towards  Salina  Cruz.  As  regards  the  knife,  it  should  be 
explained  that  the  knife  is  the  tool  of  all  work  in  Mexico. 
With  his  machete  or  corn  knife  the  Indian  clears  the  jungle, 
cuts  his  crops,  and  builds  his  humble  habitation.  The  ax  is 
practically  unknown,  even  firewood  being  cut  with  this  primi- 
tive tool. 

While  we  are  upon  the  subject  of  Mexican  politeness  it 
may  be  stated  that  in  that  land  the  episode  "After  you,  my 
dear  Alfonse"  is  enacted  hourly.  Whenever  several  gentle- 
men approach  a  gate  or  door  together — and  in  Mexico  every- 
one of  the  male  sex  is  a  gentleman — there  is  a  great  to-do,  each 
insisting  that  all  the  others  enter  before  him,  and  it  is  gener- 
ally several  minutes  before  anyone  can  be  prevailed  upon  to 
take  the  lead. 

The  old  Spanish  exclusiveness  has  largely  disappeared; 
the  old  proprieties  have  been  appreciably  relaxed.  This  will 
not  be  so  evident  to  the  newcomer,  owing  to  a  peculiar  cus- 
tom. Whereas  with  us  a  gentleman  waits  to  be  accosted  by  a 
lady,  in  Mexico  the  contrary  rule  prevails;  the  gentleman 
speaks  first.  Until  the  newcomer  grasps  this  he  naturally 
imagines  that  the  lady  to  whom  he  has  been  introduced  and 
who  passes  him  the  next  day  without  favoring  him  with  a 
glance,  is,  to  say  the  least,  somewhat  distant.  But  as  soon  as 
he  has  learned  the  way  of  the  land  he  will  find  her  the  reverse 
of  reserved.  Indeed,  the  total  absence  of  reserve  and  the  readi- 


I 


The  Lighthouse  at  Salina  Cruz 


SALINA  CRUZ  13 

ness  of  total  strangers,  of  either  sex,  to  extend  the  hand  of 
fellowship  whenever  given  an  opportunity  is  one  of  the  great- 
est pleasures  of  that  tropical  land. 

No  matter  how  many  times  a  day  they  meet,  they  stop 
and  shake  hands,  repeating  the  action  ere  they  part.  There 
is  no  sham  about  this ;  they  are  at  heart  kind  and  sympathetic, 
and  many  a  strong  friendship  one  makes  among  this 
people,  once  one  learns  their  ways. 

The  Mexicans  are  a  very  democratic  people.  The  poor 
Indian  may  have  but  a  limited  conception  of  political  matters, 
but  it  is  otherwise  with  the  upper  and  middle  classes.  What- 
ever difficulties  they  may  have  experienced  in  governing  them- 
selves, they  are  all  out  and  out  democrats.  There  are  really 
no  class  distinctions  and  royalty  or  monarchy  would  not  be 
tolerated  for  a  moment. 

To  understand  the  Mexican  one  must  visit  Mexico.  I  well 
remember  the  conception  I  formed  of  the  Mexican  when  as  a 
child  I  conned  books  of  travel  and  adventure  in  the  seclusion 
of  my  father's  harem.  It  was  that  of  a  great  tall  fellow  with 
immense  black  mustachios  and  snapping  black  eyes,  who,  if 
offended,  crept  stealthily  upon  his  enemy  and  struck  him  from 
behind  with  a  huge  dagger.  This  I  have  found  to  be  the 
general  impression  throughout  the  world  outside  of  Mexico, 
and  when  I  went  to  that  land  I  was  even  warned  not  to  tamper 
with  the  affections  of  any  of  the  fair  sex,  as,  if  crossed  in 
love,  they  would  carve  a  man's  heart  out  without  mercy. 

How  far  from  the  truth!  You  will  search  far  and  wide 
to  find  the  Mexican  of  your  dreams.  Big  mustachios  are  rare 
and  at  least  a  third  of  the  people  of  pure  white  blood,  and 
many  of  mixed  blood,  have  gray  eyes.  Nor  is  the  use  of  the 
knife  common.  The  Mexican  of  the  Isthmus,  when  he  does 
resort  to  arms,  prefers  to  settle  matters  with  the  revolver  or 


14  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

rifle.  During  a  year  spent  at  Salina  Cruz,  I  do  not  recollect 
hearing  of  a  single  assassination  by  stabbing  with  a  dagger  or 
short  knife ;  and  I  am  sure  the  gentle  maidens  of  the  Isthmus 
would  be  the  last  creatures  in  the  world  to  settle  matters  with 
the  knife,  even  though  there,  as  elsewhere,  there  are  bad  men 
who  richly  deserve  such  a  fate. 

The  Mexican  is  gay,  artistic,  dramatic.  Several  amateur 
plays  were  put  on  the  boards  while  I  was  at  Salina  Cruz  which 
would  have  put  many  a  professional  troupe  to  shame.  They 
are  great  lovers  of  music.  Every  town  boasts  a  fine  band, 
pianos  abound,  and  that  sweet  Central  American  instrument, 
the  marimba,  is  much  in  evidence. 


The  social  life  of  the  Mexican  centers  in  the  ball,  held 
every  few  nights  at  the  home  of  one  or  another  of  the  principal 
citizens.  Would  you  see  the  pleasure-loving  Mexican  at  his 
best  you  must  go  to  the  ball.  The  guests  begin  to  arrive  about 
nine  o'clock;  and  such  a  scene!  The  Mexican  knows  how  to 
dress.  No  foreigner  with  twice  the  means  can  dress  with 
half  the  taste.  The  young  men  look  like  fashion  plates;  the 
"chicas"  are  dreams.  They  dance  and  dance,  until  three  or 
four  o'clock  in  the  morning.  But  not  always,  for  now  and  then 
rumors  spread,  and  that  not  infrequently,  that  the  rebels  are 
about  to  make  a  descent  upon  the  town.  Now  it  is  custom  ot 
the  rebels  to  make  their  little  friendly  visits  about  nine  at 
night,  and  when  a  raid  is  expected  the  good  people  begin  their 
dance  at  four  in  the  afternoon  (on  Sunday,  of  course),  and 
close  at  the  early  hour  of  eight,  so  as  to  beat  the  rebels  to 
their  homes. 

I  have  referred  to  the  marimba,  the  musical  instrument 
most  esteemed  in  southern  Mexico.  It  is  preferred  by  the 
votaries  of  the  dance,  having  greater  volume  than  the  piano 


SALINA  CRUZ  15 

and  being  infinitely  sweeter.  The  marimba  somewhat  resem- 
bles the  zylophone,  but  is  much  larger.  It  consists  of  bars  of 
wood  giving  the  chromatic  scale,  set  over  wooden  resonators. 
Four  players  are  required,  each  provided  with  two  sticks 
tipped  with  balls  of  rubber.  Some  day  this  wonderful  instru- 
ment will  take  its  place  in  the  United  States  alongside  the 
piano  and  organ.  That  four  players  are  necessary  probably 
accounts  for  the  fact  that  its  use  has  not  spread  more  rapidly. 
Attempts  have  been  made  to  provide  it  with  a  keyboard,  but 
so  far  without  success,  the  keyboard  marimba  lacking  the 
exquisite  ring  of  the  simple  instrument.* 

The  posada  is  a  great  institution  in  Mexico,  as  I  presume 
is  the  case  in  all  Spanish-American  countries.  It  begins  nine 
days  before  Christmas,  being  held  one  night  at  each  of  the 
principal  houses.  All  the  upper-class  people  go,  and  when 
they  have  assembled  each  of  the  young  ladies  and  girls  is  given 
a  candle  and  they  stand  with  their  lighted  candles  outside  the 
closed  door  of  the  house  singing  the  posada  song,  which  relates 
to  the  time  when  St.  Joseph  and  the  Virgin  were  hunting  for 
lodgings  at  Bethlehem. 

When  the  song  is  finished  they  are  admitted  to  the  house. 
In  the  corner  of  the  room,  all  sparkling  with  tinsel  and  lights, 
is  a  miniature  representation  of  the  Manger  and  the  newly- 
born  Christ  Child.  After  the  young  people  have  sufficiently 
feasted  their  eyes  upon  this  scene  they  betake  themselves  to  the 
porch  to  try  their  luck  at  the  Pinate.  The  Piiiate  is  a  paper 
effigy  suspended  from  the  ceiling  of  the  porch  and  stuffed 
with  all  sorts  of  goodies.  One  by  one  the  children  are  blind- 
folded and,  armed  with  a  good  stout  staff,  take  turns  in  trying 
to  strike  the  Pinate.  Finally  someone  hits  him  fair,  splitting 
his  hide,  and  down  comes  a  rain  of  confectionery;  then  there  is 

*Tuxtla  Gutierrez  is  a  leading  center  for  the  manufacture  of  ma- 
rimbas. 


16  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

a  great  scrimmage  and  everyone  is  happy.  The  remainder  of 
the  night  is  now  devoted  to  dancing,  which  of  course  was  not 
a  feature  of  the  posada  as  it  was  anciently  celebrated.  But  I 
suppose  the  people  are  not  as  religious  as  they  once  were. 

The  Church  no  longer  holds  the  position  it  formerly 
occupied  in  Mexico,  possibly  for  the  reason  that  for  many 
years  the  government  has  viewed  its  activities  with  a  jealous 
eye.  Religious  processions  no  longer  play  the  part  they  did 
of  yore,  being  prohibited  by  law.  Indeed,  the  civil  authorities 
seem  to  have  been  over  severe  with  the  ministers  of  religion, 
not  even  permitting  priests  to  appear  upon  the  streets  in  dis- 
tinctive costume.  Hence  the  anomaly  that  in  a  country  the 
people  of  which  remain  even  today,  nominally  at  least,  over- 
whelmingly Catholic,  a  cassock  is  never  seen  on  the  streets; 
the  clergy,  like  the  Protestant  ministry  of  the  United  States, 
being  indistinguishable  from  the  mass  of  the  community.  So 
strict  is  the  law  in  this  respect  that  even  the  clerical  collar, 
vest,  and  dickey  or  "prep's  bib"  are  banned.  The  bishop,  or 
rather  vicar  apostolic,  of  the  neighboring  town  of  Tehuantepec 
evaded  this  restriction  by  wearing  an  ordinary  layman's  vest 
and,  as  he  was  the  only  person  on  the  Isthmus  so  attired,  it 
served  to  indicate  quite  effectively  the  fact  that  he  was  a  gen- 
tleman of  the  "cloth." 

Religion  was  at  a  low  ebb  at  Salina  Cruz.  Although  a 
place  of  3,000  inhabitants  it  had  but  one  church,  and  that  a 
small  one  on  a  back  street;  but  small  as  it  was  it  appeared 
ample  for  the  religious  needs  of  the  community.  Often  of  a 
Sunday  morning  I  have  stood  at  the  church  door — I  swear 
before  Allah  and  his  Apostle,  I  entered  not  in — watching  the 
priest  as  he  celebrated  mass,  and  never  on  such  occasions  did  I 
see  more  than  fifty  persons  present.  Men  of  consequence  never 
darkened  the  church  door.  A  few  ladies  there  were,  the  wives 


SALINA  CRUZ  17 

and  daughters  of  two  or  three  public  spirited  families  who 
still  believed  that,  come  what  might,  the  Cross  must  be  upheld, 
but  the  remainder  of  the  congregation  was  composed  of  bare- 
foot Indians  of  the  lower  class. 

But  let  us  turn  again  to  the  amusements  of  Salina  Cruz. 
On  New  Year's  Eve  they  have  another  great  time,  a  big  ball, 
and  when  the  clock  strikes  twelve  they  all  stop  and  begin  to 
hug  one  another  and  clap  one  another  on  the  back.  Sometimes 
a  little  fellow  will  throw  his  legs  about  a  big  man's  waist  and 
the  big  man  will  run  about  the  room  with  him,  each  pounding 
the  other  on  the  back. 

At  one  time  it  was  the  custom  of  the  army  officers  to 
attend  ball  with  loaded  revolver  on  hip,  and  a  most  grotesque 
figure  these  fierce  captains  and  colonels  cut  as  they  whirled 
about  armed  to  the  teeth.  You  may  be  sure  the  civilians 
treated  them  very  gingerly.  After  a  time  some  order  must 
have  been  sent  down  from  above,  for  the  practice  was  happily 
discontinued. 

Sometime  in  the  spring — I  think  it  was  on  San  Benito's 
Day — the  children  had  another  festival.  This  time  it  was  at 
the  church.  At  the  appointed  hour  the  children  filed  up  to  the 
church,  each  bearing  in  its  arms  some  pet  animal;  a  hen,  a 
cat,  or  a  rabbit.  Little  dresses  had  been  made  for  the  pets 
and  they  were  gaily  decorated  with  ribbons.  The  priest  held 
a  children's  service  and  solemnly  blessed  the  animals,  and  then 
the  children  trooped  home  supremely  happy. 

The  second  Sunday  in  May  is  a  sort  of  local  holiday,  it 
being  the  custom  of  the  Tehuanas*  to  come  to  Salina  Cruz  at 
that  time  each  year  and  bathe  in  the  sea.  Many  come  the  day 

"Tehuana;  properly,  a  woman  of  Tehuantepec.       But  the  term  is 
loosely  applied  to  all  the  Zapotec  women  of  the  Pacific  plain. 


18  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

before  so  as  to  be  on  time,  and  by  the  following  morning  there 
is  a  great  concourse  in  town,  all  tricked  out  in  their  gaudiest 
raiment. 

At  ten  o'clock  we  went  down  to  the  waterfront  to  see 
them  bathe.  Their  customs  are  slightly  peculiar ;  they  are  not 
troubled  with  an  excess  of  false  modesty.  They  bathed  in  the 
outer  harbor  and  the  women  went  down  into  the  water  in 
their  chemises,  but  the  men  merely  went  along  the  beach  a 
few  rods  and  stripped  naked  for  bathing.  All  the  beach  for 
a  mile  or  so  was  thronged  with  bathers,  and  they  seemed  to 
be  having  a  very  good  time  after  not  having  seen  salt  water 
for  a  year. 

They  were  not  the  only  bathers,  however.  We  stood  on 
the  great  pier  which  forms  one  side  of  the  outer  harbor.  As 
we  looked  on  we  saw  four  great  dark  objects  moving  to  and 
fro  just  under  the  surface  of  the  water  about  three  hundred 
feet  from  the  bathers.  After  a  little  we  saw  gigantic  fins 
thrown  up  out  of  the  water.  The  sharks  were  taking  a  bath 
too.  I  fear  they  also  had  their  eyes  upon  the  Tehuanas  and 
if  the  latter  had  ventured  out  too  far  would  have  made  short 
work  of  them. 

I  may  state,  in  passing,  that  these  seas  are  alive  with 
sharks.  My  neighbor,  Garfia  Salinas,  had  established  a  shark 
industry  on  an  island  near  Tonala.  According  to  him  there 
were  tens  of  thousands  of  these  monsters  in  the  shallow  waters 
surrounding  the  island.  Shagrene,  the  tough  skin  of  the  shark, 
was  once  of  great  value;  but  emery  paper  has  largely  taken 
its  place.  However,  there  is  still  great  value  in  the  shark. 
Shark  oil  finds  a  ready  market,  from  its  fins  glue  is  made, 
and  the  residue  of  the  carcass  is  readily  converted  into  fer- 
tilizer. The  catching  of  sharks  will  in  time  become  a  lucrative 
business. 


SALINA  CRUZ  19 

But  to  return  to  our  description  of  Mexican  festivals. 
On  September  16,  1918,  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  join  with 
the  good  people  of  Salina  Cruz  in  celebrating  the  108th  anni- 
versary of  the  independence  of  Mexico.  Just  one  hundred  and 
eight  years  before,  at  the  village  of  Dolores  in  what  is  now 
the  state  of  Hidalgo,  the  parish  priest  Hidalgo  raised  the 
standard  of  revolt  against  the  Spaniard. 

Salina  Cruz  put  on  festal  attire  to  celebrate  this  great 
event.  A  grand  civic  procession  was  the  principal  feature  of 
the  day.  At  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  assembled  at  the 
presidencia  (town  hall)  where  the  procession  was  formed.  A 
brass  band  led  the  way,  followed  by  several  hundred  school 
children  marshaled  in  order.  Then  came  the  obreros  (work- 
men) with  their  banner  of  blue.  Next,  and  forming  the  lead- 
ing feature  of  the  procession,  came  several  floats  bearing  cer- 
tain of  the  prettiest  senoritas  of  the  town,  typifying  the  God- 
dess of  Liberty,  Law,  Equality,  Etc. 

One  young  woman  was  rigged  out  in  f eatherwork,  Poca- 
hontas  style,  to  represent  the  conventional  Indian  maiden. 
Strange  to  say,  she  was  about  the  only  pure  white  girl  in  the 
whole  procession,  the  bronzed  complexions  of  most  of  the 
others  indicating  a  liberal  admixture  of  Indian  blood,  though 
they  would  have  been  the  last  to  see  the  joke;  for,  as  I  have 
said,  everyone  there  having  a  drop  of  white  blood  in  his  or 
her  veins,  and  dressing  in  European  costume,  is  accounted 
white.  She  was  very  beautiful  and  had  I  not  had,  by  permission 
of  the  Prophet,  four  wives  at  home  in  Persia,  she  might  have 
found  favor  in  my  eyes. 

We  were  delayed  for  some  little  time  by  the  tardiness  of 
Justicia,  a  circumstance  which  occasioned  no  little  merriment. 
As  a  Mexican  friend  slyly  observed:  "You  know  Justice  is 
somewhat  slow  in  Mexico."  But  she  finally  put  in  her  appear- 


20  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

ance  and  took  her  place  in  the  rear  of  the  other  civic  virtues, 
whereat  the  crowd  laughed  uproariously.  Another  brass  band 
followed;  then  three  little  damsels  dressed  respectively  in 
green,  white  and  red,  the  national  colors;  and  the  procession 
closed  with  a  group  of  functionaries,  the  presidente,  the  cap- 
tain of  the  port,  the  members  of  the  consular  corps,  and  other 
worthies. 

They  marched  the  length  of  the  principal  thoroughfare, 
then  back  on  the  next  street,  all  reeking  with  sweat,  but  no  one 
heeded  that,  for  they  were  bubbling  all  over  with  patriotism. 

The  day  closed  with  a  grand  ball  at  the  Hotel  Salina  Cruz. 
This  was  to  have  kept  up  until  four  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
but  closed  at  one,  it  being  rumored  that  rebels  were  approach- 
ing to  attack  the  town. 

The  difficulty  was  that  the  garrison  was  rather  small. 
There  were  seldom  more  than  fifty  men  at  the  barracks,  all 
told.  Of  course  there  was  a  colonel,  a  major,  a  captain,  and 
a  lieutenant  or  two,  and  four  or  five  musicians;  so  that  the 
number  of  privates  was  rather  limited.  They  were  good  sound 
fellows  as  a  rule  and  many  of  them  not  lacking  in  courage; 
but  struck  me  as  poor  material  for  campaigning,  barefooted  as 
they  were  and  poorly  armed.  Their  rifles  were  of  all  sorts 
and  descriptions.  Only  the  officers  were  uniformed  and 
booted.  They  possessed  no  commissary,  such  a  thing  being 
unknown  in  Mexico.  Every  soldier  is  married,  or  at  least 
keeps  a  woman  who  accompanies  him  on  his  campaigns,  and 
cooks  the  food  which  he  purchases  from  his  daily  allowance. 

The  Mexican  soldier  is  hot  blooded,  especially  when  in 
drink,  and  quarrels  are  frequent.  One  night  the  colonel  gave 
a  banquet  at  the  hotel.  Along  toward  the  end  of  the  feast 
the  colonel  and  major  quarreled.  They  straightway  betook 
themselves  to  the  patio  of  the  hotel  and  drawing  their  pistols 


The  SaJifta  Cruz  Market  is   Enck 


SALINA  CRUZ  21 

began  to  fire ;  but  having  had  a  little  too  much  wine,  neither 
was  able  to  hit  the  other  though  they  were  standing  not  more 
than  twenty  feet  apart.  While  they  were  indulging  in  their 
little  pistol  practice,  the  dignified  gentry  of  the  town  who  were 
guests  at  the  banquet  were  lying  prone  on  their  stomachs 
under  the  table. 


The  site  of  Salina  Cruz  is  confined,  the  basin  in  which  the 
town  is  situated  being  not  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half  long 
by  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  breadth;  and  even  this  space 
is  broken  by  spurs  from  the  hills,  cutting  off  portions  of  the 
basin  from  the  general  area.  A  considerable  district  to  the 
north  of  the  town  proper  is  known  as  the  Espinal,  while  the 
Costarican  consul  dwells  in  solitary  grandeur  in  a  little  cove 
known  as  the  Barrio  Juarez.  Many  of  the  huts  of  the  poor 
climb  the  slopes  of  the  adjoining  hills,  and  these  are  popularly 
known  as  "las  hormigas"  (The  Ants).  It  is  said  that  this 
custom  of  building  up  the  hillsides  is  to  some  extent  prompted 
by  the  belief  that  sooner  or  later  a  tidal  wave  will  sweep  in 
upon  Salina  Cruz,  when  those  who  dwell  on  the  hillsides  will 
alone  be  saved.  One  building  so  situated  bears  the  suggestive 
sign  "La  Area  de  Noe"  (Noah's  Ark). 

Never  a  year  passes  but  these  hills  surrounding  Salina 
Cruz  gaze  down  on  some  strange  tragedy.  Early  one  morn- 
ing my  Indian  servant  came  to  me  with  the  report  that  during 
the  night  the  soldiers  had  captured  and  executed  a  bandit. 

"He  is  now  hanging  in  the  shrine  on  the  hill  north  of 
here,"  said  the  excited  peon.  "Better  have  a  look  at  him  be- 
fore he  is  cut  down." 

"Impossible,  Juan,"  I  replied,  "the  soldiers  wouldn't  hang 
a  man  without  trial." 


22  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

"Maybe  not,"  he  answered  with  a  grin,  "but  anyway  that's 
what  they've  done.  You  can  see  him  from  the  doorway." 

I  stepped  to  the  door.  Straight  north  of  the  town,  a  half 
mile  distant  on  the  hillside  and  at  the  end  of  the  principal 
street,  a  simple  shrine  had  been  erected  in  time  past.  It  had 
but  three  walls,  being  open  to  the  weather  on  the  side  facing 
the  city.  By  the  early  morning  light  I  could  distinguish  some- 
thing white  against  the  darkness  of  the  shrine's  interior. 

"See  him?"  said  Juan. 

"Yes,  I  see  him,"  I  replied,  "but  possibly  it's  not  a  bandit. 
May  be  Don  Jeronimo  or  one  of  my  other  friends,  shot  by 
mistake.  They  don't  hang  around  the  hotel  as  closely  as  I  do 
and  there  is  no  telling  when  one  of  them  may  be  potted.  I'll 
go  take  a  look  at  the  remains." 

Breakfast  would  not  be  ready  for  another  hour,  so  I 
donned  my  hat  and  set  out  for  the  shrine.  A  fifteen  minute 
walk  brought  me  to  the  spot  and  I  was  much  relieved  to  find 
the  defunct  a  stranger.  Poor  fellow,  he  was  not  a  bad-looking 
Indian  but  he  had  evidently  fallen  into  evil  ways.  Hanging 
by  a  short  rope  from  a  crosspiece  of  the  shrine,  he  swung 
gently  in  the  breeze,  a  salutary  warning  to  the  good  people  of 
Salina  Cruz  to  be  circumspect  in  their  ways. 

The  rearing  of  goats  is  one  of  the  principal  industries  of 
Salina  Cruz.  They  are  kept  at  night  in  corrals  in  the  Espinal 
and  among  the  hormigas,  and  every  morning  the  streets  are 
full  of  these  picturesque  creatures  about  to  be  driven  up  into 
the  hills.  There  is  no  grass  in  the  hills,  nothing  but  cacti  and 
stunted  trees,  and  it  is  a  mystery  how  the  goats  find  a  living ; 
but  they  do.  These  goats  are  great  climbers,  as  they  need  to 
be  to  escape  starvation.  I  recollect  one  day  seeing  two  of  them 
away  up  on  the  side  of  a  steep  cliff  where  no  man  could  by 
any  possibility  have  climbed.  While  I  was  considering  how 


SALINA  CRUZ  23 

they  were  ever  to  get  down,  one  of  them  turned  and  made  the 
bottom  of  the  cliff  at  a  run.  She  knew  better  than  to  attempt 
to  walk  down. 

Upon  several  occasions,  while  strolling  through  the  hills, 
my  eye  caught  sight  of  what  in  the  distance  appeared  to  be 
white-clad  Indians  standing  among  the  trees;  a  disquieting 
sight  where  the  presence  of  bandits  made  it  unsafe  to  stroll 
beyond  the  crests  of  the  hills  overlooking  the  basin.  But  closer 
observation  invariably  converted  the  supposed  bandits  into 
harmless  goats,  standing  perfectly  upright  with  their  forefeet 
gently  touching  the  trunks  of  the  trees  while  they  fed  upon 
the  branches. 

The  milk  of  the  goat  is  made  into  a  cheese  which  is  much 
relished  by  the  natives  and  in  normal  times  goat  hides  are  one 
of  the  chief  articles  of  export. 

Mexico  is  a  land  of  glaring  contrasts.  Medieval  conditions 
exist  side  by  side  with  evidences  of  the  most  advanced  civiliza- 
tion. Salina  Cruz  is  typical.  Here  we  find  port  works  con- 
structed at  a  cost  of  many  millions  of  dollars,  the  best  dry- 
dock  on  the  Pacific  coast  between  Balboa  and  San  Francisco, 
and  a  splendid  railway  terminal.  The  upper  class  is  cultured 
and  refined,  pianos  abound,  and  the  nights  are  one  gay  round 
of  music,  dance,  and  wine.  But  the  schools  of  Salina  Cruz 
are  limited  to  the  first  four  grades,  the  place  has  no  telephone 
system,  automobiles  are  unknown,  there  are  but  two  public 
and  no  private  carriages  in  the  town,  but  thirty-five  private 
letter  boxes  at  the  post  office,  and  the  place's  supply  of  fuel 
is  brought  in  over  rough  mountain  trails  on  the  backs  of  men 
and  burros.  It  is  no  uncommon  sight  to  see  a  woman  enter 
town  with  twenty  pounds  of  charcoal  on  her  back  and  leading 
a  burro  bearing  his  burden. 


24  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

There  is  not  a  book  store  in  Salina  Cruz,  nor,  so  far  as 
I  am  aware,  is  there  one  in  any  of  the  cities  of  the  Isthmus. 
All  books  are  ordered  direct  from  Mexico  City. 

The  automobile  of  this  region  is  the  burro;  the  tiny 
donkey  dwarfed  by  centuries  of  privation.  All  the  firewood 
needed  for  cooking  is  brought  into  town  on  the  backs  of 
burros ;  a  burro  bearing  two  bundles,  each  about  as  large  as 
his  poor  little  self.  He  is  a  proverbially  patient  creature, 
which  stands  well  in  hand;  but  occasionally  he  gives  vent  to 
a  most  dolorous  bray.  When  the  poor  fellow's  daily  task  is 
over  he  is  turned  loose  to  shift  for  himself  on  the  surrounding 
hills. 

My  favorite  walk  while  at  Salina  Cruz  was  to  the  crest 
of  the  hills  to  the  east  of  the  town.  A  bracing  breeze  always 
sweeps  across  the  hilltops,  no  matter  how  sultry  it  may  be  in 
the  basin  below,  and  to  the  east  the  eye  wanders  ever  fifty 
miles  of  hillock  and  plain  and  lagoon  to  the  blue  mountains  of 
the  dividing  range.  I  never  tired  of  gazing  upon  that  scene. 
In  the  middle  distance,  like  a  great  silver  shield,  lay  the  Upper 
Lagoon,  from  whose  center  rose  the  mystic  isle  of  Monapox- 
tiac.  And  on  that  island  was  the  Enchanted  Cave,  fane  of 
dead  civilizations,  where  in  the  dim  past  the  Indian  had  ques- 
tioned the  Soul  of  the  Universe.  Often  I  planned  to  visit  that 
cave,  but  the  intervening  plains  were  infested  by  bandits  and 
I  was  never  able  to  make  the  trip. 

It  mattered  not  what  hill  one  ascended,  he  always  found 
a  footpath  at  the  top,  for  it  is  the  custom  of  the  Indian  footman 
in  coming  to  and  going  from  market  to  follow  the  skyline, 
where  the  air  is  ever  fresh  and  he  can  keep  a  sharp  watch 
against  a  possible  holdup.  The  sagacious  burro  also  un- 
doubtedly made  use  of  these  paths,  it  being  a  very  common 
occurrence  on  ascending  a  hill  to  find  a  lone  burro  on  the  very 


SALINA  CRUZ  25 

peak.  This  seemed  to  be  a  favorite  resort  of  the  burro,  but 
whether  sought  to  enjoy  the  scenery  or  to  escape  his  master, 
I  know  not. 

The  cacti  are  the  most  conspicuous  plants  hereabouts.  I 
noticed  four  species  as  I  strolled  among  the  hills :  The  prickly 
pear  with  its  great  flat  "leaves;"  a  similar  blue-green  cactus 
of  more  upright  growth,  the  tender  young  leaves  of  which  are 
used  for  food;  the  tiny  dwarf  cactus;  and  the  giant  Organ 
cactus.  The  latter  grows  to  a  great  height,  the  best  specimens 
being  generally  found  in  the  deep  ravines  which  score  the 
sides  of  the  hills.  I  saw  several  in  such  places  with  trunks  a 
foot  and  a  half  in  diameter  and  branches  rising  to  a  height  of 
from  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet,  like  the  pipes  of  some  grand 
cathedral  organ.  Sometimes  when  the  natives  wish  to  make  a 
hedge  they  fell  one  of  these  great  cacti,  cut  it  into  lengths,  and 
plant  the  lengths,  and  in  three  or  four  years  they  possess  a 
hedge  for  which  the  numerous  burros,  pigs,  and  half-starved 
cows  which  infest  the  locality  have  the  profoundest  respect. 

In  spring  and  early  summer  the  cacti  blossom.  The 
prickly  pear  has  a  beautiful  yellow  flower  and  so  likewise  has 
the  dwarf  cactus,  the  blossom  of  the  cactus  with  the  edible 
leaves  is  of  the  brightest  pink,  while  forth  from  the  pipes  of 
the  organ  cactus  spring  magnificent  snow-white  flowers  as 
large  as  saucers. 

None  of  the  four  species  mentioned  bear  edible  fruits  in 
that  latitude,  but  there  is  another  giant  cactus,  cousin  to  the 
Organo,  very  common  in  places,  which  in  the  spring  bears  a 
luscious  fruit  known  as  pitaya.  This  fruit  is  globular  and 
about  two  inches  in  diameter.  On  splitting  a  pitaya  open  a 
pulpy  substance  of  the  consistency  of  raspberry  jam  is  dis- 
closed and,  strange  to  say,  it  is  of  the  same  purplish  color  and 


26  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

its  flavor  reminds  one  of  the  raspberry.  A  half  dozen  of  these 
purple  globes  split  open  and  sprinkled  with  sugar  make  a 
dessert  fit  for  a  king.  The  pitaya  colors  the  urine  red. 


CHAPTER  II. 
QUIEN  VIVE? 

THANKS  be  to  Allah,  the  Lord  of  all  creatures,  who 
hath  not  shortened  my  days  but  hath  permitted  me 
to  live  on,  because  the  Appointed  Hour  is  not  yet 
come.  In  very  sooth  I  sometimes  thought,  what  time  I  abode 
upon  the  Isthmus,  that  the  Day  was  at  hand,  more  especially 
when  I  heard  upon  the  lips  of  the  people  those  words  of  evil 
omen,  "Quien  vive?"  What  meant  they,  ask  you?  Verily,  my 
brother,  this  thy  servant  at  first  marveled  mightily  and  was 
sore  bewildered  on  hearing  those  words  and  beholding  the  civil 
commotions  which  followed  in  their  wake.  But  Allah  All-Wise 
hath  revealed  to  me  the  meaning  thereof,  even  as  I  shall  now 
reveal  it  to  thee. 

During  the  period  of  my  sojourn  on  the  Isthmus  political 
conditions  were  very  unsettled  in  Mexico.  The  arms  of  the 
Constitutionalists  had  prevailed  over  the  enemy  in  the  open 
field,  and  practically  every  railway  station  throughout  the 
Republic  was  garrisoned  by  federal  troops ;  but  seven  years  of 
civil  strife  had  bred  the  usual  progeny  of  outlaws  and  the 
country  back  from  the  railroads  was  everywhere  infested  by 
bands  of  rebels  and  brigands. 

On  the  Pacific  plains  there  was  no  considerable  number 
in  arms  against  the  government;  Tehuantepec,  Salina  Cruz, 
San  Geronimo,  and  Juchitan  were  garrisoned;  the  trains 
moved  on  regular  schedule;  and  the  casual  traveler  might 
easily  persuade  himself  that  peace  prevailed.  But  this  im- 
pression would  involve  ignorance  of  local  conditions.  Every- 

27 


28  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

where  life  was  safe  only  in  the  larger  towns,  and  only  meas- 
urably so  there.    The  whole  country  was  a  fortified  camp. 

There  was  no  rebel  army  in  the  field,  but  the  woods  were 
infested  by  numerous  small  bands  of  bandits.  I  use  the  term 
advisedly,  because  it  was  not  always  easy  to  tell  their  actual 
status.  Some  of  them  were  mere  robber  bands,  but  the  greater 
number  seemed  to  be  composed  of  rebels  owing  a  loose 
allegiance  to  Felix  Diaz,  whose  headquarters  were  said  to  be 
in  the  mountains  far  to  the  north  toward  Vera  Cruz.  The 
bandit  element  was  being  constantly  reinforced  by  disaffected 
elements  from  the  towns.  Their  bands  were  composed  of 
diverse  elements  with  nothing  in  common  save  hostility  to  the 
government.  There  was  the  officer  whose  peculations  had 
become  too  notorious  for  even  the  easy  conscience  of  Mexican 
officialdom,  the  man  whose  property  had  been  confiscated  or 
whose  daughter  had  been  carried  away,  the  fellow  who  simply 
loved  the  lawless  life  of  the  bush,  and  the  earnest  Felicista 
who  fought  upon  principle  for  the  restoration  of  the  ancient 
regime. 

Trains  moved  only  by  daylight,  leaving  one  terminus  at 
four  or  five  in  the  morning  so  as  to  reach  destination  by  night. 
They  were  all  mixed  trains,  and  very  much  mixed,  a  typical 
train  embracing  an  engine,  a  baggage  car,  two  passenger 
coaches,  perhaps  a  half  dozen  freight  cars,  and  two  or  three 
armored  cars  filled  with  troops. 

Even  this  protection  was  not  considered  sufficient,  every 
train  being  accompanied  by  an  "exploradora"  or  troop  train. 
The  exploradora  originally  preceded  the  regular  train,  hence 
the  name;  but,  as  the  rebels  frequently  permitted  the  explora- 
dora to  pass  and,  when  it  had  rounded  a  curve  and  disappeared 
in  the  jungle,  held  up  the  train,  the  process  was  reversed  and 
the  exploradora  has  since  followed  after. 


QUIEN  VIVE?  29 

As  a  rule  none  of  the  townspeople  ever  thought  of  leaving 
the  security  of  the  town,  except  by  rail.  The  Indian  might 
bring  in  produce,  but  the  city  people  did  not  wander  far  from 
the  secure  shelter  of  their  houses ;  and  often  and  again  have 
I  been  warned  against  visiting  points  not  a  mile  from  the 
town  center. 

The  system  of  defense  adopted  by  the  Mexican  garrison 
is  peculiar.  At  the  intersections  of  the  principal  streets  they 
build  little  fortines  or  blockhouses,  about  twelve  feet  square 
and  capable  of  holding  five  or  six  soldiers.  The  stranger 
acquainted  with  the  elaborate  fortifications  of  other  lands 
will  wonder  of  what  service  these  little  affairs  can  possibly 
be.  And  yet  they  are  well  adapted  to  the  system  of  street 
fighting  there  in  vogue.  Pitched  battles  are  not  the  rule.  The 
rebels  enter  the  town  at  nightfall,  sneaking  through  the  alleys 
and  less  frequented  streets  and  striving  to  get  as  near  as  pos- 
sible to  the  town  center,  where  the  barracks  are  always  located, 
before  being  discovered.  The  main  object  of  the  garrison,  on 
the  other  hand,  is,  as  soon  as  the  rebels  are  discovered,  to 
get  into  the  fortines  and  keep  the  streets  free  from  members  of 
the  attacking  party. 

As  the  year  advanced  we  heard  more  and  more  of  rebel 
depredations.  They  attacked  Juchitan  and  San  Geronimo,  and 
Tehuantepec  was  attacked  upon  several  occasions.  The  Indian 
populations  of  these  towns  though  outwardly  loyal  to  the  gov- 
ernment were  said  to  secretly  sympathize  with  the  rebels. 
Their  brethren,  the  Zapotecs  of  the  mountains  to  the  north- 
west, were  in  open  rebellion,  and  there  was  no  communication 
between  the  Isthmus  and  Oaxaca  City,  the  state  capital.  Armed 
bands  held  all  the  passes  and  the  rebel  general  Zuriaga  held 
his  court  at  Santa  Maria  de  Guiniagata. 

But  Salina  Cruz  was  supposed  to  be  safe  from  attack, 


30  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

"The  rebels  will  never  try  to  take  this  place,"  my  friends 
assured  me.  "During  all  these  seven  years  of  revolution  the 
town  has  never  been  attacked,  nor  will  they  be  foolish  enough 
to  try  it  now."  Their  belief  seemed  well  founded.  Salina  Cruz 
was  a  seaport  and  a  Mexican  or  American  gunboat  might  put 
in  an  appearance  at  any  time ;  and  besides,  the  Indians  of  the 
place  were  not  natives  of  the  Isthmus,  but  had  been  brought 
thither  from  all  parts  of  Mexico  when  the  great  port  workf 
were  in  course  of  construction.  Finally,  the  town  was  isolated 
geographically,  lying  among  barren  sand  hills  at  a  distance 
from  the  inhabited  parts  of  the  plain. 

But  it  is  hard  to  figure  on  the  vagaries  of  the  genus  rebel, 
and  my  friends  were  mistaken.  About  the  first  of  September 
a  small  detachment  of  rebels  entered  the  place  at  nightfall.  I 
was  in  the  American  consulate  at  the  time,  conversing  with 
an  English  lady  who  wished  to  take  the  Japanese  liner  for 
Valparaiso.  While  we  were  talking  we  heard  what  we  at  first 
mistook  for  firecrackers;  but  I  remember  finally  going  to  the 
window  and  saying,  "It  sounds  almost  loud  enough  for  shots, 
doesn't  it?" 

The  lady  prepared  to  leave  and  went  out  to  the  porch,  but 
came  back  immediately,  saying,  "Why,  I  don't  understand  it. 
I  had  my  porter  place  my  portmanteau  in  the  porch  and  bade 
him  remain  until  I  had  seen  you.  He  has  disappeared." 

I  sent  my  man  with  the  lady  to  look  up  another  porter. 
Shortly  afterwards  I  heard  the  sound  of  "firecrackers"  again, 
and  this  time  went  out  to  the  porch  to  learn  what  was  up; 
but  when  I  reached  the  porch  all  was  silent.  Shortly  after 
they  returned  with  another  man  who  took  up  the  portmanteau, 
and  we  all  set  off  for  the  water-front.  As  we  proceeded  the 
lady  said:  "Why,  do  you  know,  we  came  near  being  shot  a 
few  moments  ago.  There  were  rebels  or  something  of  the  kind 


QUIEN  VIVE?  31 

in  town,  and  all  kinds  of  shooting.  One  ball  passed  right  by 
my  ear."  After  I  had  seen  the  lady  to  the  ship  I  hastened  back 
to  the  upper  end  of  the  town  and  on  inquiry  learned  that  six 
or  eight  armed  rebels  had  entered  the  town,  but  had  been  given 
such  a  warm  reception  that  they  promptly  decamped. 

I  knew  that  from  that  hour  the  place  was  no  longer  safe. 
Having  escaped  scott  free  they  would  come  again  unless  the 
garrison  was  promptly  reinforced.  But  the  military  author- 
ities failed  to  grasp  this  and  no  reinforcements  came. 


Two  weeks  later  I  took  the  train  for  Tehuantepec,  the 
first  town  inland  from  Salina  Cruz.  There  was  to  be  a  bull 
fight  there  and  a  Malinche  dance  by  the  Huave  Indians,  and 
Don  Carlos — Mr.  Charles  A.  Parkins,  a  Jamaican  beekeeper 
of  that  place — had  come  down  expressly  to  persuade  me  to  go 
over  with  him  to  attend  the  doings.  As  we  came  into  the 
station  I  saw  the  exploradora  ready  on  the  side  track.  We 
boarded  the  train  and  she  put  out  of  the  station  as  if  to  take 
the  lead;  but  at  a  signal  from  the  exploradora  we  backed  up 
and  permitted  her  to  go  ahead.  This  admitted  of  but  one  ex- 
planation ;  there  was  trouble  ahead. 

It  was  a  run  of  twelve  miles  to  Tehuantepec.  We  reached 
Santa  Maria,  on  this  side  of  the  Tehuantepec  River,  and 
stopped.  The  exploradora  moved  on  to  the  bridge  head.  Then 
the  fun  began.  The  rebels  opened  fire  from  the  further  side  of 
the  river  and  in  reply  smoke  belched  from  the  armored  cars  of 
the  exploradora. 

The  rebels  had  thrown  obstructions  upon  the  track  and 
had  set  fire  to  the  woodwork  of  the  bridge.  Fortunately  the 
bridge  was  a  steel  structure  and  they  were  unable  to  put  it  out 
of  commission  in  the  limited  time  at  their  disposal.  After  a 


32  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

short  interval  the  exploradora  moved  forward  into  the  city 
and  our  train  took  its  place  at  the  bridgehead. 

From  there  we  had  an  excellent  view  of  the  fight.  Before 
us  lay  the  city  plaza,  the  near  side  of  which  was  occupied  by 
the  market,  a  huge  structure  the  roof  of  which  was  supported 
by  massive  brick  pillars.  Tehuantepec  was  the  district  capital 
and  upon  the  south  side  of  the  plaza  fronted  the  district  build- 
ing or  palacio  del  gobierno.  The  government  troops  had  left 
the  exploradora,  relieved  the  garrison  which  was  besieged  in 
the  palace,  and  with  its  aid  were  chasing  the  rebels  over  the 
hills  back  of  the  town. 

When  our  train  finally  reached  the  plaza  of  Tehuantepec 
we  alighted  and  set  about  investigating  the  incident.  The 
rebels,  to  the  number  of  about  a  hundred,  had  entered  the  town 
about  six  in  the  morning  and  taking  possession  of  the  market 
had  opened  fire  upon  the  palace.  They  succeeded  in  killing  one 
of  the  defenders  and  wounding  the  officer  in  command,  and 
would  probably  have  taken  the  palace  had  it  not  been  for  the 
timely  arrival  of  the  troop  train. 

But  that  is  a  large  "if,"  for  the  rebels  knew  that  the  train 
was  coming  and  was  overdue,  and  they  had  taken  no  effective 
measures  to  prevent  its  arrival,  though  that  meant  certain 
failure  for  them.  Had  they  removed  a  rail  six  or  eight  miles 
up  the  track  they  could  easily  have  delayed  the  arrival  of  rein- 
forcements for  several  hours.  But  that  was  not  to  be  thought 
of,  since  it  would  have  involved  considerable  work.  Their 
ideas  of  warfare  were  limited  to  firing,  Indian  fashion,  from 
behind  columns  and  stone  walls. 

Whether  any  of  the  rebels  were  injured  is  unknown.  But 
as  Don  Carlos  and  I  made  our  way  from  the  scene  of  combat 
toward  his  residence  some  blocks  to  the  northeast,  in  passing 
the  cathedral  premises  we  saw  a  man  lying  in  a  pool  of  blood 


QUIEN  VIVE?  33 

just  outside  the  cathedral  gate.  On  approaching  we  learned 
that  he  had  just  been  shot  by  the  Soldiers.  Another  lay  just 
inside  the  gate.  Both  were  breathing  their  last.  They  had 
been  arrested  some  days  before  and  had  apparently;  been 
executed  as  a  salutary  warning  to  rebel  sympathizers. 

We  passed  on  to  the  residence  of  Don  Carlos,  a  corner 
building  about  a  block  from  the  cathedral.  We  entered  and 
seated  ourselves.  Don  Carlos  wrinkled  his  eyebrows  omin- 
ously. After  a  little  he  unburdened  his  heart.  Nearly  every 
night,  he  said,  a  party  of  rebels  would  come  to  his  corner  and 
he  could  hear  them  outside  discussing  plans  to  attack  the  gar- 
rison which  occupied  the  cathedral  house  and  adjoining  mon- 
astery. Sometimes  the  rebels  knocked  at  his  door  and  de- 
manded admission.  He  was  afraid  they  would  break  in  sooner 
or  later.  He  possessed  a  shot  gun  but  had  only  two  rounds 
of  ammunition.  The  prospect  was  not  reassuring. 

Now  Don  Carlos  was  in  the  bee  business  and  had  several 
hundred  hives  of  bees  in  his  patio  or  house  court.  It  occurred 
to  me  that  here  lay  a  way  out  of  the  difficulty.  "That  should 
not  trouble  you  in  the  least,"  I  remarked.  "All  you  need  do  is 
fix  a  hive  of  bees  against  your  door  every  night,  and  should  the 
rebels  break  in,  so  much  the  worse  for  them.  The  bees  will 
give  them  a  warm  reception." 

Don  Carlos  was  pleased  with  my  plan,  and  after  that 
before  going  to  bed  always  set  a  hive  upon  a  shelf  near  the  top 
of  the  door.  Thus  fortified  he  slept  the  sleep  of  the  just.  This 
is  the  first  instance  where,  to  my  knowledge,  bees  have  ever 
been  used  in  defensive  warfare. 

It  was  perhaps  a  week  later,  about  eight  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  that  Morley  Hurst  (an  employee  of  the  cable  com- 
pany) and  I  were  sitting  on  the  commodious  porch  of  my  hotel 


34  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

drinking  lemonade.  A  file  of  perhaps  thirty  men  came  along 
the  side  street  from  the  direction  of  the  church.  Some  of  them 
were  armed,  and  as  they  reached  our  street  and  began  to  cross 
it,  I  fancied  that  the  others  shifted  their  blankets  as  though 
they  were  carrying  concealed  weapons. 

"What  do  you  make  of  that  layout?"  said  Hurst  in  an 
undertone.  "Well,  I  hardly  know,"  I  replied.  They  were  very 
quiet.  Besides,  I  recollected  that  the  commander  of  the  gar- 
rison had  boasted  to  me  of  having  organized  a  company  of 
volunteers  from  the  peons  of  the  town.  "Perhaps  it  is  the 
comandante's  voluntaries  out  for  practice." 

We  were  not  long  kept  in  suspense  for  the  next  moment 
they  passed  us  at  a  dog  trot,  crouching  low  and  hugging  the 
wall.  As  they  passed  one  of  them  turned  toward  us  and  mut- 
tered beneath  his  breath:  "Viva  la  Sierra,"  the  battle  cry  of 
the  Indians  of  the  mountains  of  Oaxaca.  He  said  it  in  the 
most  friendly  manner,  but  it  was  enough;  we  immediately 
went  inside.  I  glanced  over  my  shoulder  as  we  entered.  They 
had  sprung  into  the  middle  of  the  street  and  were  rushing  at 
full  speed  toward  the  center  of  the  town.  We  bolted  the  door. 
Not  ten  minutes  later  hell  broke  loose.  They  had  attacked  the 
garrison. 

For  the  next  two  hours  we  remained  cooped  up  in  the 
hotel  while  pandemonium  reigned  without.  The  garrison  had 
plenty  of  ammunition  and  spent  it  without  stint.  To  the  south 
of  us  the  rattle  of  musketry  was  incessant,  the  volleys  fired 
by  the  garrison,  generally  high,  passing  over  our  heads  into 
the  Espinal  beyond,  and  falling  with  the  vengeful  whine  of  the 
Mauser  ball. 

Hurst  and  I  at  first  kept  close  to  my  room.  But  we  soon 
discovered  that  we  ran  little  risk  in  the.  hotel,  which  interposed 
several  walls  between  us  and  the  flying  missiles,  and  moved  out 


QUIEN  VIVE?  35 

into  the  court.  We  lit  our  pipes  and  sauntered  about,  pessi- 
mistically discussing  the  revolution  in  all  its  phases.  We  had 
almost  become  resigned  to  our  fate  when  Don  Pepe  and  Don 
Poncho,  the  proprietors  of  the  hotel,  put  in  their  appearance. 

"Well,  Don  Pepe,"  said  I,  "a  fine  evening,  eh?"  "Mil 
diablos — a  thousand  devils,"  said  Don  Pepe,  "these  Indians 
are  very  bad.  What  if  they  take  the  town?  We  have  been 
hiding  in  the  cellar.  I  don't  understand  the  way  you  fellows 
take  it.  You  don't  seem  at  all  excited." 

Whereat  we  smiled  loftily  and  were  puffed  up  with  con- 
ceit. But  if  the  naked  truth  must  be  told  it  was  but  a  matter 
of  training.  Pride  of  race  constrained  us  to  %conceal,  even 
from  one  another,  the  misgivings  of  our  hearts  and  put  on 
a  bold  face ;  and  this  is  called  courage,  forsooth. 

After  a  time  we  heard  a  detachment  from  the  garrison 
charge  past  into  the  Espinal.  It  seemed  another  band  of 
rebels  had  come  in  and  occupied  that  quarter.  Wild  oaths, 
shrieks,  and  more  rifle  shots.  One  would  imagine  from  the 
uproar  that  men  were  being  slain  by  the  hundred.  Then 
the  scene  evidently  shifted.  The  fight  was  raging  in  the  Barrio 
Juarez ;  then  among  the  hills  to  the  west  of  the  town.  By  ten 
o'clock  the  firing  began  to  slacken  as  the  rebels,  their  ammu- 
nition exhausted,  fled  over  the  hills. 

As  soon  as  the  management  was  satisfied  that  the  fight 
was  over  the  lights  were  switched  on  and  we  gathered  in  the 
cantina,  as  the  bar-room  is  called  in  Mexico,  to  discuss  the 
situation.  Hurst  wanted  to  leave  at  once  for  the  cable  sta- 
tion ;  in  coming  over  to  the  hotel  he  had  left  only  women  there 
and  was  anxious  to  assure  himself  that  no  harm  had  befallen 
them.  At  least  that  was  his  excuse  for  wanting  to  go.  As  a 
matter  of  fact  Hurst  was  a  fearless  sort  of  fellow  and  appar- 
ently had  not  the  least  conception  of  the  danger  which  lurks 


36  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

in  flying  bullets.  But  I  stoutly  objected  to  his  leaving  the 
building,  representing  that  in  the  darkness  of  the  night  some 
excited  soldier  was  apt  to  take  his  white  clad  form  for  that  of 
a  bandit  and  pot  him  without  further  ado;  and  the  proprietors 
cinched  the  matter  by  refusing  to  undo  the  door.  So  he  abode 
with  us  the  night. 

The  next  morning  I  accompanied  Hurst  to  the  scene  of 
combat  where  we  learned  that  the  attack  was  far  better 
planned  than  we  had  supposed.  While  the  force  which  we  had 
seen  was  attacking  the  garrison  from  the  north,  another  band 
had  seized  the  cable  office.  This  building  occupies  the  crest 
of  a  hill  overlooking  the  plaza  and  commanding  the  heart  of 
the  city.  From  it  the  rebels  poured  down  a  withering  fire 
upon  the  cuartel.  Had  they  had  sufficient  ammunition  the 
town  would  have  been  at  their  mercy ;  but  from  the  traces  left 
after  the  battle  it  seemed  they  had  but  fifteen  or  twenty  rounds 
each. 

After  counting  the  bullet  holes  in  the  cable  building  and 
figuring  out  the  direction  from  which  they  had  come — always 
a  pleasant  diversion  on  the  day  after  an  attack — we  visited  the 
British  consul's  residence  a  few  yards  to  the  rear  of  the  cable 
building  and  somewhat  further  up  the  hill.  The  women  of  the 
place  said  they  were  up  stairs  when  the  bandits  came  and 
the  first  intimation  they  had  of  their  presence  was  a  loud  rap 
at  the  door  below.  On  one  of  them  going  down  stairs  she  was 
accosted  by  a  bandit,  who  informed  her  that  he  and  his  com- 
panions were  about  to  seize  the  cable  building  and  open  fire  on 
the  cuartel,  and  politely  suggested  that  she  close  the  doors — 
which  were  open — and  keep  within  during  the  engagement. 
It  would  certainly  be  difficult  to  find  more  considerate  bandits 
than  those  of  southern  Mexico! 

Despite  all  the  powder  which  had  been  burned  during  the 


Savage  Woman  of  the  Mountains.  Other  races  of  the  Isthmus 
are  Inferior  to  the  Zapotec 


QUIEN  VIVE?  37 

attack,  the  total  casualties  amounted  to  two  killed  and  two 
wounded,  and  these  were  civilians  who  had  foolishly  ventured 
out  upon  the  streets ;  not  a  single  combatant  was  injured.  Both 
sides  were  careful  to  keep  behind  stone  walls,  in  which  position 
and  in  the  obscurity  of  the  night  they  were  fully  as  safe  as 
the  citizens  within  doors. 

Don  Pepe  had  profited  by  the  night's  experience.  Imme- 
diately after  breakfast  he  lined  up  the  male  servants  and  pro- 
ceeded to  put  them  through  a  drill  designed  to  prepare  them 
against  the  day  of  trouble. 

I  should  explain  at  this  point  that  in  Mexico  a  sentry 
does  not  say  "Who  goes  there?"  but  "Quien  vive?"  that  is, 
"Who  lives?" 

"Now,"  said  Don  Pepe,  "if  an  armed  man  challenges  you, 
what  do  you  say." 

"Vive  Carranza — Long  live  Carranza,"  replied  a  peon. 

"Carramba!  but  the  man  might  be  a  rebel  and  then  he 
would  shoot  you !" 

"Well,"  again  ventured  the  peon.  "Then  I  would  say  'Vive 
la  Sierra — Long  live  the  Mountain'." 

"Wrong  again,"  replied  Don  Pepe,  "for  he  might  be  a 
Carrancista,  in  which  case  you  would  also  be  shot.  No,  the 
proper  thing  is  to  always  say  'Vive  Mexico/  that  will  pass 
with  either  side." 

This  sage  advice  led  to  a  story.  Once  upon  a  time  a  China- 
man who  had  always  lived  in  town  went  out  into  the  country 
and  was  challenged  by  a  rebel  outpost:  "Quien  Vive?"  He  an- 
swered "Vive  Carranza,"  whereupon  the  rebel  fell  upon  him 
and  beat  him  unmercifully  and  for  a  finish  gave  him  a  kick, 
sending  him  upon  his  way  with  an  admonition  to  never  be 
guilty  of  such  an  offense  again,  but  always  say  "Vive  la  Sierra" 
when  challenged. 


38  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Sometime  later  the  Chinaman  set  his  face  towards  home. 
When  he  reached  the  outskirts  of  the  town  he  was  halted  by 
a  sentry  who  put  the  usual  question  "Quien  vive?"  to  which 
the  Chino  responded,  "Vive  la  Sierra."  He  was  immediately 
seized,  his  hands  were  bound  behind  him,  and  he  was  hustled 
off  pell  mell  to  the  municipal  jail,  with  a  solid  kick  at  every 
step  to  accelerate  his  progress.  Nor  did  he  escape  from  dur- 
ance until  the  last  centavo  had  been  wrung  from  him. 

He  stepped  forth  from  confinement  a  sadder  but  a  wiser 
Chino.  In  fact  he  had  been  doing  some  pretty  hard  thinking 
while  in  jail,  and  the  next  time  he  was  challenged  by  a  sentry 
he  answered  in  pidgeon  Spanish,  "Tu  vivas  pimelo — You  viva 
first." 


Meanwhile  the  spirit  of  disaffection  was  rife  at  Tehuan- 
tepec.  One  evening  a  general  from  Acapulco  disembarked  at 
Salina  Cruz  with  several  officers.  The  next  morning  he  took 
the  early  train  for  San  Geronimo.  Three  officers,  a  colonel, 
a  major,  and  a  captain,  who  had  been  out  late  the  night  before, 
overslept  and  were  left  behind.  Fearing  a  reprimand,  they 
hustled  about  and  after  some  dickering  arranged  with  a  couple 
of  peons  to  take  them  to  San  Geronimo  on  a  hand  car. 

Reaching  Tehuantepec  they  stopped  off  to  drink  coconut 
water  and  chat  with  the  Tehuanas.  They  spent  a  pleasant 
half  hour  in  this  manner.  It  was  their  last  drink.  Death 
was  swiftly  preparing  for  them  while  they  loitered.  They 
resumed  their  positions  on  the  hand  car  and  started  on  their 
way.  Not  a  mile  from  the  station  they  were  riddled  by  shots 
from  the  thicket  bordering  the  right  of  way. 

This  occurred  on  Thursday.  On  the  following  Saturday 
a  major  proceeded  from  Tehuantepec  to  San  Geronimo,  ar- 
rested three  merchants  of  that  place,  and  brought  them  back 


QUIEN  VIVE?  39 

with  him  to  Tehuantepec.  He  then  arrested  three  others  of 
the  latter  place.  That  evening  he  informed  the  person  in 
charge  of  the  street-lighting  service  that  he  was  expecting  a 
rebel  attack  and  asked  him  to  turn  off  the  power,  which  was 
done. 

The  town  shrouded  in  darkness,  he  directed  that  the  six 
prisoners  be  taken  to  an  unfrequented  point  on  the  river 
bank,  where  they  were  frightfully  tortured  with  knives.  Then 
nooses  were  thrown  about  their  necks,  the  other  ends  of  the 
ropes  were  tied  to  the  tails  of  horses,  and  the  poor  devils  were 
dragged  to  death.  Their  bodies  were  buried  in  the  sands  by 
the  riverside,  but  so  illy  was  the  work  done  that  they  were 
dug  up  by  the  dogs  on  the  following  day.* 

This  sinister  deed  cast  a  pall  over  Tehuantepec.  The  in- 
habitants were  oppressed  with  fear  and  after  nightfall  the 
streets  were  deserted.  Many  in  fact  did  not  deem  it  safe  to 
remain  in  the  city  at  night  and  a  number  of  the  leading  citizens 
for  better  protection  began  the  practice  of  going  to  Salina  Cruz 
on  the  evening  train,  remaining  there  over  night,  and  returning 
to  Tehuantepec  the  next  morning.  These  worthies  were 
dubbed  the  Brigada  Carrera  (Car  Brigade)  by  the  local  wits. 

One  of  the  favorite  diversions  of  the  good  people  of  Salina 
Cruz  consisted  in  meeting  the  train  when  it  came  in  at  night. 
It  was  a  picturesque  gathering;  the  fierce  warriors  of  the  gar- 
rison, gaily-dressed  Tehuanas,  and  all  the  pretty  simpaticas 
of  the  place  were  there.  After  endless  signalling  and  whis- 
tling, in  came  the  train,  and  no  sooner  had  it  come  to  a  halt 
than  out  jumped  the  doughty  members  of  the  Car  Brigade, 
headed  by  the  redoubtable  Don  Carlos  Parkins  and  the  orbic- 
ular Dr.  Martinez  of  Apizaco. 

*This  outrage  seems  to  have  been  an  act  of  private  revenge  on  the 
part  of  the  major,  who  fled  the  same  night  immediately  after  the  perpe- 
tration of  the  fiendish  deed.  He  was  subsequently  captured  and  when 
last  heard  of  was  confined  in  a  military  prison. 


40  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Now  at  the  time  whereof  I  write  no  newspapers  were 
printed  in  that  part  of  Mexico.  All  the  newspapers  in  circu- 
lation were  published  in  Mexico  City  and  these  of  course  con- 
tained no  local  news.  Thus  it  came  about  that  news  was 
gathered  in  the  good  old  way  in  vogue  the  world  over  a  thou- 
sand years  ago.  Gossip  was  news  and  the  traveler  was  the 
principal  newsvender.  I  developed  long  ears  in  those  parts. 

No  sooner  had  Don  Carlos  and  the  doctor  and  their  worthy 
companions  of  the  Brigade  alighted  from  the  train  than  the 
dissemination  of  news  began.  Not  with  a  blare  of  trumpets 
by  any  means.  The  military  maintained,  or  endeavored  to 
maintain,  a  strict  censorship  and  it  was  inadvisable  to  speak 
too  loudly.  But  everyone  was  anxious  to  learn  what  was 
going  on,  and  it  was  surprising  how  rapidly  every  scrap  of  in- 
formation spread  in  whispers  through  the  community. 


Once  again  the  rebels  descended  upon  Salina  Cruz.  Night 
had  fallen  and  I  had  just  left  the  consulate  for  the  hotel,  only 
a  block  away.  I  had  taken  but  a  few  steps  when  the  enemy 
opened  fire  just  back  of  the  park  and  seemingly  not  a  block 
from  where  I  stood.  By  the  beard  of  the  Prophet,  it  was  a 
delicate  position,  and  candor  compels  me  to  admit  that  I  stood 
not  long  upon  the  order  of  my  going.  One  thinks  rapidly  in 
such  moments.  I  perceived  on  the  instant  that  the  hotel, 
though  the  more  remote,  was  the  safer  place  of  the  two,  and 
set  off  for  it  at  top  speed,  dodging  bullets  at  every  jump. 
Verily  I  was  without  fear,  but  I  acted  upon  the  American 
principle  that  discretion  is  the  better  part  of  valor. 

I  came  in  sight  of  the  hotel  entrance.  The  doorkeepers, 
who  had  been  reared  amid  revolutions  and  understood  well 
their  business,  stood  ready  to  close  the  doors  the  instant  the 
last  civilian  had  entered.  There  was  a  mad  rush  for  the  doors. 


QUIEN  VIVE?  41 

The  last  soul  entered  and  I  was  still  some  distance  away.  The 
doorkeepers  prepared  to  swing  the  doors,  whereat  I  managed 
to  bawl  out,  "Hold,  locos,  can't  you  see  me  coming."  They 
paused  and  the  next  instant  I  made  the  entrance.  Praised  be 
Allah  who  hath  appointed  my  death-day  from  the  beginning, 
I  had  not  suffered  a  scratch. 

I  hastened  through  the  hall  and  into  the  patio.  Here  a 
unique  sight  met  my  eyes.  There  they  were,  all  of  Don  Pepe 
and  Don  Poncho's  guests,  every  one  of  them  standing  as  stiff 
as  pokers  with  their  backs  to  the  wall.  And  there  they  stood 
for  some  fifteen  minutes,  while  the  rifles  cracked  without.  I 
charge  you  to  remember,  0  son  of  Abdullah,  and  it  may  stand 
you  well  in  hand  should  you  ever  have  the  good  fortune  to  visit 
southern  Mexico,  that  revolution  on  the  Isthmus  has  been  re- 
duced to  a  science  and  has  its  fixed  laws,  one  of  which  is  that 
the  safest  place  during  an  attack  is  with  back  to  wall. 

The  attack  was  soon  over;  in  fact,  it  was  a  mere  feint, 
possibly  a  ruse  to  draw  the  garrison  into  the  hills. 

Following  this  attack  the  government  strongly  reinforced 
the  garrisons  at  Salina  Cruz  and  Tehuantepec,  and  open  at- 
tacks on  the  towns  ceased.  Matters  now  assumed  a  new  phase. 
Numerous  arrests  had  been  made  and  many  persons  executed 
as  suspects,  generally  on  the  evidence  of  some  informer.  The 
rebels,  no  longer  strong  enough  for  open  attack,  now  drew  up 
a  list  of  the  informers,  whom  they  marked  for  destruction. 
The  method  of  disposing  of  their  victims  was  characteristic. 

Every  two  or  three  days  a  band  of  six  or  eight  rebels 
would  enter  the  suburbs  of  one  of  the  towns,  search  out  their 
man,  and  slay  him ; — a  venganza.  Sometimes  they  led  him  out 
into  the  woods,  sometimes  they  slew  him  under  his  own  roof ; 
but  wherever  the  scene  was  so  remote  from  the  town  center 
that  they  felt  certain  of  making  good  their  escape  before 


42  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

arrival  of  the  garrison,  the  victim  was  taken  out  and  shot  in 
a  public  manner  before  the  people  of  the  barrio.  Then  the 
rebels  would  flee  over  the  hills  or  into  the  underbrush,  mount 
their  waiting  steeds,  and  gallop  away. 

Sometimes  these  acts  of  vengeance  were  perpetrated  at 
night,  sometimes  in  broad  daylight;  and  as  a  rule  the  slayers 
escaped  scot  free,  for  the  garrison,  being  few  in  numbers, 
was  ill  disposed  to  leave  the  town  center.  I  remember  upon 
one  occasion  a  band  of  eight  rebels  entering  Salina  Cruz  at 
five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  They  found  their  man  in  the 
E spinal,  took  him  out  into  the  plaza  of  the  barrio,  riddled  him 
with  bullets,  and  made  good  their  escape;  though  fifteen  men 
of  the  garrison  were  only  four  blocks  distant. 

Even  these  demonstrations  ceased  toward  the  end  of  the 
year  and  we  began  to  think  the  military  had  actually  cleared 
the  region  of  bandits.  But  no,  in  a  few  days  they  were  as 
active  as  ever,  only  this  time  they  found  it  advisable  to  shift 
the  scene  of  operations.  Figuring  that  Salina  Cruz  and 
Tehuantepec  were  too  well  garrisoned  to  be  taken,  they  betook 
themselves  to  the  neighborhood  of  Niltepec — Niltepec  lies  on 
the  southern  flank  of  the  Mountains  of  Chimalapa  some  forty 
miles  northeast  of  Tehuantepec — and  looted  the  ingenio  or 
sugar  plantation  at  that  point. 

The  news  reached  us  in  the  usual  way.  One  evening 
shortly  before  I  left  the  Isthmus  three  ladies  alighted  from 
the  train  at  Salina  Cruz  and  put  up  at  my  hotel.  Their  arrival 
produced  quite  a  sensation.  They  were  clearly  Mexicans, 
but  were  dressed  in  black  and  wore  hats.  Ergo,  they  were 
white  ladies  from  the  central  plateau.  Very  strange  they 
seemed  to  us  who  had  so  long  seen  only  hatless  women. 

The  ladies  were  vivacious  and  talkative  like  all  of  their 


QUIEN  VIVE?  43 

race,  and  we  were  not  long  in  learning  all  about  them.  It  ap- 
peared they  were  friends  of  the  manager  of  the  ingenio  at 
Niltepec  and  had  shortly  before  come  down  from  central  Mex- 
ico to  pay  his  family  a  visit.  Sometime  previously  the  man- 
ager, fearful  of  an  attack  by  marauders,  had  called  upon  the 
government  for  a  detachment  of  troops.  The  government  sent 
a  guard  of  ten  men ;  but  in  calling  for  troops  the  manager  had 
acted  inadvisedly,  as  he  was  soon  to  learn.  Situated  as  he 
was,  the  payment  of  a  reasonable  tribute  to  the  bandit  chief 
of  the  locality  was  the  only  sure  way  of  securing  immunity. 

One  morning  fully  a  hundred  well-armed  bandits  de- 
scended upon  the  ingenio,  scattering  the  guard  like  chaff  be- 
fore the  wind.  It  was  the  usual  story;  the  soldiers,  finding 
themselves  outnumbered,  made  no  defense  but  fled  on  the 
instant,  leaving  the  manager  and  his  fair  guests  to  their  own 
devices.  The  bandits  were  not  extortionate  in  their  demands. 
They  compelled  the  manager  to  open  the  plantation  safe  and 
pocketed  its  contents,  a  matter  of  a  thousand  pesos,  and  then 
each  of  the  leaders — there  were  five  of  them — appropriated  a 
riding  horse  from  the  plantation  stables;  but  with  this  they 
appeared  satisfied.  Of  course  the  manager  was  locked  up 
temporarily  for  safe  keeping. 

The  most  talkative  of  the  ladies,  who  told  us  all  this, 
assured  us  that  the  bandit  chief  was  a  perfect  gentleman. 
When  the  outlaws  first  took  possession  of  the  place  he  appeared 
at  their  quarters  and  after  politely  saluting  said : 

"Have  no  fear,  ladies ;  no  harm  shall  befall  you.  I  deeply 
regret  the  necessity  of  relieving  our  mutual  friend,  the  man- 
ager, of  his  surplus  cash,  and  as  soon  as  that  is  accomplished 
and  a  few  other  little  things  attended  to  shall  endeavor  to 
withdraw  my  men.  It  may  easily  happen,  however,  that  some 
may  discover  liquor  before  I  can  get  them  out  of  the  place, 


44  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

and  in  that  event  I  cannot  answer  for  their  conduct.  I  shall 
therefore  lock  you  ladies  in  for  the  present  and  will  return 
later." 

He  bowed  again  and  taking  the  key  from  the  door  passed 
out,  locking  the  door  from  the  outside.  The  helpless  ladies 
waited  in  great  fear.  They  could  not  see  what  was  taking 
place  without,  but  from  the  confused  shouts  and  noises  which 
came  to  their  ears  it  was  plain  that  the  business  of  looting 
the  place  was  in  full  swing.  After  about  an  hour  the  key  once 
more  grated  in  the  door,  which  was  opened,  disclosing  the 
amiable  features  of  the  bandit  chief. 

"Gather  up  your  things,  ladies,  and  come  out,"  he  said. 
"Some  of  our  men  have  discovered  liquor  and  are  fast  getting 
beyond  control.  I  have  secured  a  rig  to  take  you  to  the  nearest 
railway  station.  By  leaving  at  once  and  driving  fast  you  will 
reach  the  station  in  time  to  catch  the  train  to  San  Geronimo." 

The  ladies  hurried  out  and  entered  the  waiting  convey- 
ance, a  light  covered  wagon  drawn  by  two  sinewy  mules.  The 
chief  had  thoughtfully  secured  a  driver  from  among  the  plan- 
tation peons.  A  general  handshaking,  a  few  hurried  instruc- 
tions, and  they  were  off  before  the  rank  and  file  of  the  bandits 
had  discovered  what  was  under  way.  As  they  turned  the  first 
corner  the  ladies  caught  a  last  glimpse  of  the  ingenio.  Before 
the  great  front  door  of  the  ranch  house  stood  their  bandit 
protector  and  even  as  they  looked  he  removed  his  sombrero 
with  a  mighty  flourish  and,  placing  his  hand  over  his  heart, 
bowed  low. 

A  drive  of  ten  miles  brought  them  safely  to  the  station 
just  in  time  to  catch  the  west  bound  train  and  two  hours  later 
they  alighted  at  San  Geronimo.  The  next  day  they  reached 
Salina  Cruz,  where  they  remained  until  the  arrival  of  the  next 
north  bound  ship. 


CHAPTER  III. 
TEHUANTEPEC. 

PRAISE  be  unto  the  Lord  of  the  Three  Worlds,  even  unto 
Almighty  Allah  who  hath  made  the  histories  of  the 
Past  an  admonition  unto  the  children  of  the  Present. 
I  joyed  with  exceeding  joy  and  returned  grateful  thanks  to  the 
Most  Compassionate,  what  time  I  first  beheld  that  goodly 
city  of  infidels,  by  them  hight  Tehuantepec  the  Holy.    And  I 
have  much  to  tell  thee,  0  my  brother,  concerning  the  evils 
which  in  days  of  yore  and  in  ages  long  gone  before  befell  this 
place,  and  how  Allah  finally  tempered  their  tribulations ;  but 
first  I  must  needs  describe  to  thee  the  city  itself. 

Tehuantepec  lies  upon  the  river  of  that  name  about  mid- 
way between  the  point  where  the  stream  bursts  forth  from  the 
mountains  of  Oaxaca  and  its  mouth  at  Ventosa  Bay.  At  this 
point  a  cluster  of  high  hills  breaks  the  monotony  of  the  plain 
and  between  these  hills  the  river  wends  its  way.  The  city  is 
built  upon  both  sides  of  the  river,  partly  upon  the  narrow 
benches  between  the  river  and  the  hills  and  partly  upon  the 
sides  of  the  hills,  terrace  upon  terrace. 

It  is  the  center  of  a  rich  agricultural  district.  Up  and 
down  the  river,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  is  one  succession 
of  bright  garden  patches  and  verdant  fields,  each  surrounded 
with  living  hedges  of  Spanish  plum,  piiion,  or  gulebere,  or 
bordered  with  stately  rows  of  orange,  mango,  or  the  graceful 
coconut  palm.  There  is  no  agrarian  problem  here,  for  the 
Mexican  government  long  since  made  ample  provision  for  the 
Indians,  alloting  to  each  his  little  plot  of  ground.  Enormous 

45 


46  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

crops  of  sugar  cane,  pineapple,  coconuts,  beans,  and  corn  are 
raised  in  this  favored  valley,  and  were  its  waters  utilized  to 
full  capacity  it  could  easily  feed  all  southern  Mexico.  . 

The  history  of  Tehuantepec  runs  back  into  the  distant 
past.  It  was  already  the  principal  city  of  the  Isthmus  when 
the  Zapotec  king  Cosijoeza  defeated  the  Aztecs  at  Quiengola 
in  the  year  1497,  and  it  is  so  still. 

Its  origin  antedates  the  dawn  of  history,  but  it  was  prob- 
ably founded  by  the  Huaves,  whose  capital  city  it  seems  to 
have  been  before  the  successive  waves  of  Aztecs  and  Zapotecs 
overspread  the  land.  The  choice  of  site  appears  to  have  been 
based  upon  both  commercial  and  military  considerations,  it 
being  the  nearest  defensible  position  on  the  route  leading  from 
the  Pacific  plains  to  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca.  The  heights  sur- 
rounding the  city  afforded  vantage  points  from  which  the  eyes 
of  its  sentinels  swept  the  plains  for  miles  around  and  sites  for 
the  erection  of  fortifications  to  which  the  population  could 
withdraw  in  the  hour  of  peril. 

While  these  hills  shut  in  the  city  on  the  east  and  west,  up 
and  down  the  river  the  view  is  unobstructed ;  and  looking  north 
one  sees  the  gorge  where  the  stream  emerges  from  the  moun- 
tains and  on  the  left  the  imposing  mass  of  Mt.  Quiengola.  In 
a  later  chapter  we  shall  have  occasion  to  give  at  some  length 
the  legends  connected  with  this  mountain.  At  this  point  let 
it  suffice  to  state  that  there  in  the  fifteenth  century  King  Cosi- 
joeza erected  a  fortress  to  dominate  the  Pacific  plains  of  Te- 
huantepec which  he  had  but  lately  conquered. 

The  remains  of  these  fortifications  are  the  most  extensive 
ruins  in  those  parts  of  Mexico,  and  often  as  from  Tehuantepec 
I  gazed  upon  its  azure  heights  I  determined  to  organize  a  party 
for  a  trip  to  Quiengola.  But  Allah  determineth  all  things, 
and  from  this  mad  idea,  as  they  called  it,  my  friends  as  often 


TEHUANTEPEC  47 

dissuaded  me.  We  would,  they  argued,  need  a  pack  train  and 
scaling  ladders,  for  the  way  was  a  matter  of  seven  leagues — 
a  Mexican  league  is  about  two  and  a  half  English  miles — and 
the  ascent  to  the  ruins,  about  half  way  up  the  mountain,  was 
very  steep.  The  round  trip  would  require  three  or  four  days 
and,  worst  of  all,  the  district  was  infested  with  bandits. 

While  I  remained  but  half  convinced  and  continued  to 
revolve  the  matter  in  my  mind,  an  incident  occurred  which 
dissipated  for  good  all  idea  of  visiting  Quiengola.  Tehuan- 
tepec  was  the  district  capital  and  a  garrisoned  town,  and  so 
was  Jalapa,  a  place  some  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  up  the 
river;  and  Tehuantepec  being  the  nearest  railroad  point  rein- 
forcements for  Jalapa  were  dispatched  from  there. 

On  a  certain  Sunday  in  midsummer  I  made  one  of  my 
customary  visits  to  Tehuantepec.  Upon  my  arrival  I  hunted 
up  Don  Carlos  and  we  set  out  for  a  walk  through  the  suburb 
of  Santa  Maria;  and  as  we  were  crossing  the  plaza  for  that 
purpose  a  troop  of  horsemen,  soldiers  from  the  garrison,  came 
galloping  past.  I  should  have  given  them  no  heed  had  I  not 
espied  among  their  number  the  jovial  little  major,  second  in 
command  of  our  own  garrison  at  Salina  Cruz.  He  was  a  won- 
derfully fat  man  and  like  most  fat  men  exceedingly  jolly,  and 
I  loved  him  as  a  brother.  He  nodded  and  smiled  as  they  passed. 

"By  Allah,  Don  Carlos!"  quoth  I,  "this  hath  a  savor  of 
mystery.  There  must  be  full  thirty  in  that  detachment.  Per- 
adventure  there  is  something  of  importance  afoot." 

"Nothing  out  of  the  ordinary,  I  imagine,"  he  replied. 
"There  is  a  garrison  at  Jalapa,  you  know,  and  I  understand 
these  fellows  are  on  their  way  to  relieve  the  garrison.  You 
eee  the  government  has  to  keep  switching  the  soldiers  about 
from  point  to  point  so  that  they  won't  get  too  well  acquainted 
in  any  one  place.  There  is  a  big  disaffected  element  in  all 


48  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

these  towns  and  troops  kept  too  long  in  a  place  are  apt  to 
get  mixed  up  in  some  treasonable  business." 

"I  see,  but  how  comes  it,  think  you,  that  our  Salina  Cruz 
major  is  with  them?" 

"Can't  say,"  Don  Carlos  replied;  "wants  to  see  the  coun- 
try up  that  way,  I  suppose.  Probably  he  will  accompany  our 
colonel  to  Jalapa,  where  they  will  leave  these  men  and  return 
with  an  equal  number  of  the  old  garrison.  They'll  have  a 
rare  outing;  wish  I  was  going  with  them." 

We  spent  the  afternoon  visiting  various  points  of  interest 
in  Santa  Maria,  and  after  supper  I  bade  him  good-bye  and 
taking  the  evening  train  returned  to  Salina  Cruz.  Three 
weeks  later  I  was  again  in  Tehuantepec  and  on  meeting  Don 
Carlos  happened  to  allude  to  the  party  that  had  left  for  Jalapa. 

"What!  Haven't  you  heard  the  news?"  said  that  worthy. 
"I  thought  everyone  knew  of  what  happened  on  the  Jalapa 
road." 

"No!  Anything  serious?" 

"Well,  rather.  Half  of  those  poor  fellows  who  rode  so 
gallantly  past  us  when  you  were  last  here  have  gone  to  their 
eternal  rest."  Here  he  made  the  sign  of  the  cross,  after  the 
manner  of  the  unbelievers,  and  continued :  "All  went  well  until 
they  reached  the  foot  of  Quiengola,  but  as  they  were  passing 
through  the  gorge  between  the  mountain  and  the  river  the 
rebels  suddenly  opened  fire  on  them  from  the  surrounding 
heights." 

"Ambushed?" 

"Yes,  ambushed.  It  was  just  the  sort  of  place  for  an 
ambuscade ;  a  narrow  defile  and  high  above  rocks  piled  helter- 
skelter,  and  behind  every  rock  an  Indian.  Those  fellows  made 
short  work  of  the  detachment.  They  poured  down  a  wither- 
ing fire  on  the  trapped  soldiers  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  ravine 


TEHUANTEPEC  49 

was  filled  with  dead  and  dying  men  and  horses.  Our  men 
attempted  a  stand  but  the  situation  was  desperate;  they 
couldn't  scale  the  sides  of  the  ravine  to  grapple  with  the  ene- 
my, nor  did  they  dare  to  advance,  for  they  knew  not  how  far 
the  way  might  be  picketed  by  rebels.  So  after  fifteen  of  their 
number  had  fallen  they  turned  and  fled." 

"But  iiow  about  the  Jalapa  garrison?" 

"Oh,  they  may  consider  themselves  fortunate  in  that  the 
attack  was  not  timed  for  the  return  trip." 

It  will  be  readily  understood  that  after  this  recital  I  dis- 
missed from  my  mind  all  thought  of  visiting  Quiengola. 


The  city  of  Tehuantepec  is  situated  principally  on  the 
left  or  eastern  bank  of  the  river,  the  business  center  being 
crowded  between  the  river  and  Dani  Guibedchi  or  Tiger  Hill, 
the  highest  of  the  eminences  which  surround  the  city.  The 
word  Tehuantepec  is  from  the  Aztec  and  means  "tiger  hill 
town."  It  is  said  that  the  hill  was  formerly  the  lair  of  tigers 
which  preyed  upon  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  until  a  com- 
paratively recent  date.  In  Zapotecan,  still  the  common  speech, 
the  place  is  called  Guisi. 

A  typical  old  Mexican  town  is  Tehuantepec  with  its  fifteen 
heavy  Moorish  churches,  its  monotonous  one-storied  houses 
with  their  grated  windows  and  hidden  inner  courts,  and  its 
narrow,  crooked  streets.  Of  its  ancient  glories  before  the 
Spaniard  came  no  memorial  remains.  The  old  church  and 
convent  of  Santo  Domingo  are  said  to  have  been  built  by 
Cosijopii,  the  last  king  of  Tehuantepec,  but  even  fifty  years  ago 
the  members  of  the  Shufeldt  expedition  pronounced  their 
architecture  to  be  purely  Spanish.  This  is  hardly  to  be  won- 
dered at  since  three  centuries  had  intervened  from  the  death 
of  Cosijopii,  and  what  with  time,  earthquakes,  and  civil  strife 


50  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

these  structures  may  have  been  several  times  destroyed  and 
rebuilt. 

But  it  is  more  difficult  to  understand  why  no  remains 
whatever,  great  or  small,  of  the  ancient  Indian  civilization  are 
to  be  found  in  or  about  the  city.  At  Mixtaquilla,  three  miles 
north,  abundant  archaeological  material  has  been  exhumed; 
but  none  at  Tehuantepec.  Possibly  while  the  larger  monu- 
ments of  the  past  have  crumbled  with  age  or  have  been  torn 
down  to  make  way  for  new  structures,  those  statuettes,  celts, 
and  other  small  implements  which  must  once  have  been  so 
numerous,  have  been  carried  away  by  the  constant  stream  of 
travelers  passing  through  the  place. 

In  the  summer  of  1918,  as  I  was  passing  through  Calle 
Segunda  Morelos,  that  little  street  which  runs  west  from  San 
Sebastian  church  to  the  river,  I  came  upon  an  Indian  celt — 
one  of  those  stone  chisels  formerly  used  by  the  aborigines 
to  scrape  skins  and  for  other  domestic  purposes — lying  in  the 
middle  of  the  street.  At  first  I  was  at  a  loss  to  account  for 
its  presence  there;  but  on  looking  about  I  observed  that  the 
street  had  once  been  paved  with  dark  gray  cobble-stone,  about 
half  of  the  pavement  being  still  intact,  and  that  the  stones  of 
the  pavement  were  of  the  same  color  and  size  as  the  celt.  The 
explanation  was  obvious.  Some  ignorant  workman  had  taken 
the  celt  for  a  pebble  and  incorporated  it  into  the  pavement, 
from  which  it  had  but  recently  been  broken  loose. 

It  was  upon  this  occasion  that,  in  passing  from  the  street 
into  the  little  square  which  fronts  San  Sebastian  church,  I 
beheld  a  sight  by  no  means  uncommon  in  that  part  of  Mexico. 
A  sturdy  Tehuana  was  taking  a  live  pig  to  market.  She  had 
first  tied  his  feet  together  before  and  aft  and  then,  having 
taken  him  up  in  her  arms  as  one  would  a  child,  was  marching 
off  to  the  market  with  the  greatest  unconcern  imaginable.  Not 


TEHUANTEPEC  51 

a  grunt  did  the  pig  utter ;  he  was  probably  accustomed  to  this 
singular  form  of  conveyance.  Nor  did  the  Tehuana  grunt, 
though  the  porker  must  have  weighed  fully  sixty  pounds. 

Tehuantepec  boasts  a  population  of  15,000.  There  are  a 
few  Syrian  merchants  in  the  place  and  perhaps  two  or  three 
hundred  white  Mexicans,  in  the  liberal  sense  in  which  I  have 
used  that  term.  Strange  to  say,  there  are  neither  Spaniards 
nor  Chinese.  The  remainder  of  the  population  is  Tehuano. 
There  is  among  these  a  considerable  strain  of  white  blood,  and 
indeed,  some  of  the  Tehuanos  are  almost  pure  white.  For 
generations  before  the  advent  of  railroads  adventurers  seeking 
the  west  coast  followed  the  route  of  the  Isthmus,  and  many 
surrendered  to  the  charm  of  the  Tehuana,  stayed,  and  were 
absorbed.  And  their  descendants  are  counted  as  Indians, 
yea,  though  as  white  as  the  beard  of  the  Prophet ;  for  the  line 
is  drawn  as  I  have  said,  not  by  blood,  but  by  speech  and  dress 
and  manner  of  life,  and  as  one  counts  himself  an  Indian  or 
a  white  man,  so  he  is. 

But  the  number  of  Tehuanos  bearing  any  perceptible 
strain  of  white  blood  is  small.  It  is  limited  to  the  upper  class. 
Almost  the  entire  population  is  evidently  of  pure  Zapotecan 
blood,  as  is  evidenced  by  their  color,  varying  from  rich  yel- 
low to  dark  brown.  These  Indians  of  the  plains  lack,  how- 
ever, the  over  prominent  nose  characteristic  of  the  Indian 
race  in  general  and  their  hair  is  generally  short  and  fine,  and 
often  dark  brown  in  color  rather  than  black.  These  circum- 
stances, combined  with  the  beauty  of  the  women  (universally 
acknowledged  to  be  the  most  beautiful  of  the  Indian  race), 
have  led  many  to  assume  an  extensive  race  admixture  which 
the  facts  do  not  warrant. 

The  houses  of  the  well-to-do  (and  there  are  many  such 
among  the  Indians  of  Tehuantepec)  are  commonly  of  but  one 


52  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

story,  without  porches  on  the  exterior,  and  built  flush  with 
the  street ;  the  long  expanse  of  blank  wall,  broken  only  by  small 
grated  windows,  producing  an  effect  the  reverse  of  pleasant. 
But  step  inside,  and  the  feeling  is  at  once  dispelled ;  for  here 
every  house  is  built  about  an  inner  court,  upon  which  porches 
supported  by  massive  columns  face,  a  court  in  many  cases  filled 
with  shady  trees  and  gorgeous  flowering  bushes  of  many  kinds. 

These  houses  of  the  better  class  are  invariably  con- 
structed of  brick,  for  brick  is  cheap  while  lumber  is  very  cost- 
ly on  the  Isthmus.  Indeed,  I  was  told  by  a  friend  that  he  paid 
more  for  a  few  hundred  feet  of  lumber  used  in  connection  with 
the  roof  of  his  house  than  for  all  the  rest,  brick  and  labor, 
taken  together.  In  the  dry  atmosphere  of  the  Pacific  plains, 
adobe  or  sun-dried  brick  is  (or  was  until  late  years)  the  prin- 
cipal building  material;  the  practice  being  to  construct  the 
lower  three  feet  of  the  wall  of  burnt  brick,  which  is  also  used 
about  the  doors  and  windows  to  give  greater  strength,  the 
remainder  of  the  wall  being  constructed  of  the  cheaper  adobe. 
The  newer  buildings  are  very  generally  built  of  burnt  brick 
throughout. 

Every  Indian  is  ambitious  to  become  the  owner  of  a  brick 
house,  and  as  money  is  not  always  ready  to  hand  in  the  be- 
ginning, the  custom  is  to  build  piecemeal  as  the  money  is 
earned.  The  roof  is  always  built  first,  and  the  walls  one  by 
one  as  circumstances  permit.  In  this  way  a  house  may  be 
seven  or  eight  years  in  building,  but  in  the  end  the  owner 
has  a  commodious  brick  dwelling. 

During  the  years  of  the  revolution  there  was  but 
little  construction  and  with  the  return  of  peace  building  will 
be  abnormally  active  for  some  years.  Not  only  will  there  be 
great  demand  for  common  and  pressed  brick,  but  also  for 
floor  tile  and  roofing  tile,  wooden  floors  and  shingled  roofs 


Railroad  Bridge  and  the  City  of  Tehuantepec  in  the  Background 


The  500  Year  Old  Plaza  of  Tehuantepec 


TEHUANTEPEC  53 

being  uncommon  in  this  section.  There  will  be  a  great  oppor- 
tunity for  the  establishment  of  foreign  brick-making  plants, 
for  which  San  Geronimo  and  Ixtaltepec  afford  the  best  loca- 
tions; the  former  as  possessing  the  best  railroad  facilities 
and  the  latter  because  of  the  excellent  brick-making  clays 
of  that  neighborhood. 

Pass  we  now  to  the  homes  of  the  poor.  They  live  in  huts 
thatched  with  palm  leaves.  The  walls  of  some  of  these  huts 
consist  merely  of  a  matting  made  of  wild  cane ;  while  in  the 
better  sort  the  walls  are  of  wattle  plastered  over  with  red  clay. 
Sometimes  the  poor  fellow  sets  up  the  frame  of  his  little  home, 
nails  strips  on  the  outside  and  inside  of  the  posts,  fills  in  the 
interval  with  small  fragments  of  rock,  and  then  plasters  the 
whole  over  with  clay.  In  any  event  his  abode  is  a  miserable 
one;  destitute  of  chimney,  window,  and  floor,  every  spell  of 
wet  weather  sweeps  off  great  numbers  of  the  unfortunate 
poor.  Bismillah,  it  is  a  shame  that  men  should  be  permitted 
to  live  thus  without  instruction.  May  Allah  speed  the  day 
when  the  poor  Indian  shall  be  taught  a  better  way. 

The  majority  of  the  Indians  of  Mexico  live  in  miserable 
hovels  of  the  sort  described  above.  Do  you  ask  the  reason? 
It  is  not  far  to  seek.  Three  causes  in  fact  combine  to  keep 
the  bulk  of  the  Indian  population  in  a  state  of  destitution ;  the 
apathy  of  the  Indian;  his  exploitation  by  the  white  element, 
Mexican  and  foreign  alike;  and  the  lack  of  public  security. 
And  the  cure  as  certainly  lies  in  three  remedies  which  for- 
tunately operate  upon  all  the  evils  alike;  better  educational 
facilities,  a  wider  diffusion  of  the  system  of  small  land  hold- 
ings, and  a  greater  infusion  of  white  blood.  When  a  good  com- 
mon-school education  is  within  the  reach  of  every  child,  and 
when  every  Indian  father  owns  his  own  little  patch  of  land, 
intestinal  strife  will  cease  in  Mexico,  a  steady  stream  of  Euro- 


54  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

pean  immigration  will  flow  upon  the  great  central  plateau,  and 
destitution  will  disappear  from  the  republic. 

At  Tehuantepec  it  is  the  custom  to  elevate  the  sidewalks 
adjoining  the  better  buildings  some  three  or  four  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  street,  and,  that  this  may  not  inconvenience  the 
pedestrian  in  crossing  the  street,  the  side  of  the  sidewalk  is 
stepped,  not  only  at  the  corners  but  along  the  sides  of  the 
block.  In  these  narrow  streets  hitching  posts  are  out  of  the 
question  and  if  the  owner  of  a  building  keeps  a  horse  or  mule 
he  sets  a  ring  in  the  wall  to  tie  his  animal  upon  occasion.  The 
beast  so  tied  occupies  the  sidewalk  and  the  passer-by  must 
take  to  the  street.  Tis  the  custom  of  the  land. 

Mexico  is  a  much  churched  country  so  far  as  buildings 
go.  In  the  state  of  Oaxaca  alone  there  are  more  than  a  thou- 
sand temples  of  masonry.  But  when  I  visited  Tehuantepec 
the  plight  of  the  church  was  sad  indeed.  During  the  revolu- 
tion the  monks  had  been  expelled  from  their  convent  and  the 
building  converted  into  a  jail  and  barracks  for  soldiery.  The 
neighboring  cathedral  was  used  as  a  horse  stable,  the  high 
altar  defiled  in  an  indescribable  manner,  and  the  congregation 
was  obliged  to  worship  in  an  adjoining  chapel. 

Tehuantepec  is  certainly  well  called  the  Holy  City. 
Churches  abound;  there  is  the  cathedral  and  twelve  ward 
churches,  one  for  each  of  the  twelve  barrios  into  which  the 
city  is  divided.  The  churches  are  massive  structures  of  mason- 
ry, with  walls  of  such  thickness  that  the  space  within  is  very 
confined  and  little  room  is  left  for  the  worshipers.  To  fully 
accommodate  the  congregation  the  space  in  front  of  the  church 
is  generally  roofed  over,  as  seen  in  the  picture  of  the  Church 
of  the  Laborio,  given  in  this  volume.  During  service  the 
women  sit  on  the  floor  of  the  church  facing  the  altar  while  the 


TEHUANTEPEC  55 

male  portion  of  the  congregation  stands  at  attention  without 
the  door. 

The  Indians  are  great  church-goers.  Male  and  female 
they  flock  to  church  at  every  call  of  the  bell.  The  Church 
satisfies  both  their  religious  and  their  social  needs.  Adjoining 
the  main  structure  there  is  generally  a  vestry  where  the  older 
men  congregate  every  Sunday  to  converse  and  smoke  cigar- 
ettes, irrespective  of  whether  or  not  there  are  religious  serv- 
ices on  that  particular  day.  This  appears  to  be  quite  a  social 
institution. 

Across  the  river  from  Tehuantepec,  in  the  suburb  of 
Santa  Maria,  are  three  small  conical  hills,  rising  perhaps  a 
hundred  feet  above  the  surrounding  level.  On  the  summit  of 
each  the  piety  of  past  ages  has  built  a  little  chapel,  while  on 
the  summits  of  the  larger  hills  round  about  the  city  rude 
crosses  have  been  erected.  To  chapel  and  cross  the  Indians 
resort  to  pay  their  vows.  Visiting  one  of  these  chapels  you 
may  perchance  find  the  door  open,  and  looking  in  may  see  a 
young  mother  crouching  before  a  lighted  taper  set  between 
the  flowers  which  she  has  brought  to  the  fane.  She  is  keeping 
a  vow  for  the  safety  of  her  first-born  child. 

It  is  the  policy  of  the  church  to  keep  the  Indian  busy  with 
rites  and  pilgrimages.  On  the  outskirts  of  Tehuantepec,  across 
the  river  to  the  northwest,  lies  Dani  Lieza,  a  hill  somewhat 
higher  than  the  three  chapel-crowned  eminences  to  which  I 
have  alluded.  In  the  face  of  this  hill,  near  the  summit,  is  a 
shallow  cave ;  and  passing  through  Tehauntepec  of  an  evening 
you  will  observe  a  bright  light  shining  from  the  cave.  For 
the  good  people  of  that  barrio  have  taken  it  upon  themselves 
to  send  by  turns  a  messenger  nightly  up  the  steep  ascent  of 
the  hill  to  set  candles  upon  an  altar  in  the  cave. 


56  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

In  the  next  chapter  we  speak  more  at  length  of  the  relig- 
ious functions  so  dear  to  the  heart  of  the  Tehuano. 

The  streets  of  Tehuantepec  are  infested  by  a  liberal  as- 
sortment of  half-starved  hogs,  dogs  and  burros.  The  hog  is 
the  scavenger  of  the  place  and  it  is  well  that  he  is,  for  all  the 
refuse  is  thrown  into  the  streets.  Were  it  not  for  the  hog  and 
the  dryness  of  the  climate  the  people  of  Tehuantepec  would 
have  long  since  perished  to  a  man.  As  it  is,  it  is  accounted  a 
healthy  place. 

The  dogs  of  that  land  are  wretched  creatures.  The  cli- 
mate is  too  hot  for  dogs,  and  the  Indian  neither  feeds  nor  pets 
them ;  and  shall  we  wonder  that  the  Friend  of  Man,  deprived 
of  his  just  due,  reverts  to  the  condition  of  his  savage  ancestor, 
the  wolf.  Indeed,  this  is  only  another  instance  where  the  In- 
dian needs  instruction ;  he  is  kind-hearted  toward  his  fellows, 
but  has  never  been  taught  the  duty  of  humanity  to  animals. 
So  miserable  was  the  condition  of  many  a  dog  that  I  came  upon 
that  I  should  have  killed  it,  had  I  not  been  afraid  of  causing 
a  riot.  I  one  day  came  upon  a  poor  dog  paralyzed  in  its  hind 
legs,  hopping  about  the  streets  with  its  forefeet,  emaciated  to 
a  skeleton,  and  literally  covered  with  enormous  woodticks. 
Bismillah,  my  heart  swelled  within  me ;  and  yet  the  inhabitants 
of  the  ward  were  totally  oblivious  of  the  poor  creature's 
misery. 

But  the  dogs  of  the  few  stray  whites  who  dwell  in  the 
land  thrive  and  grow  fat.  Senor  Nauf al,  a  Maronite  merchant 
of  Tehuantepec,  had  a  dog  called  Sultan,  a  great  portly  yellow 
fellow,  the  envy  of  the  town.  This  knowing  beast  was  not 
even  satisfied  with  the  abundance  he  received  at  home,  but 
whenever  he  met  the  Traveler  on  the  street,  followed  him  to 
that  sumptuous  hostelry,  the  Hotel  la  Perla,  and  taking  his 


TEHUANTEPEC  57 

seat  beside  him,  put  on  his  very  best  behavior,  as  a  wise  dog 
will,  lest  he  lose  his  share  of  the  feast. 

The  dogs  of  the  Isthmus  have  a  peculiar  custom  of  sleep- 
ing in  the  middle  of  the  street;  and  often  in  the  daytime  also, 
when  it  is  not  too  hot,  you  may  see  them  lying  there.  I  have 
never  heard  this  explained.  Possibly  it  is  to  avoid  vermin, 
or  it  may  be  on  account  of  the  heat  derived  from  the  sand. 

Passing  through  the  streets  of  Tehuantepec  of  a  morning 
you  are  certain  to  encounter  numerous  burros,  each  with  four 
Standard  Oil  cans  on  his  back,  two  on  either  side.  You  will 
be  run  down  if  you  are  not  careful,  as  the  burros  are  not  led. 
A  boy  follows  after  with  whip  in  hand  and  the  burros,  with 
a  wholesome  respect  for  the  whip,  trot  before,  stopping  at 
every  doorway  for  a  possible  sale ;  for  this,  you  must  know,  is 
the  city  water  department.  The  well  water  is  alkaline  and  all 
drinking  water  must  be  brought  from  the  river.  When  their 
loads  are  disposed  of,  the  burros  make  back  for  the  river,  the 
empty  cans  on  their  backs  making  a  prodigious  clatter  as  they 
trot  down  the  street. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
DON  CARLOS  DE  SAN  BLAS. 

HAVING  thus  briefly  described  the  city  and  its  envi- 
rons, it  now  behooveth  me  ,to  tell  thee  of  my  exper- 
iences therein,  even  as  I  have  aforetime  promised 
thee,  O  son  of  my  sister.  And  of  those  things  which  I  shall 
relate  take  heed  that  thou  question  not,  for  I  swear  by  the 
Name  graven  on  the  signet  of  the  Great  King  that  the  same 
are  true  beyond  the  peradventure  of  a  doubt. 

Late  in  January  of  the  year  1918  I  took  the  4:30  a.  m. 
train  at  Salina  Cruz,  arriving  in  Tehuantepec  a  little  after 
five.  My  friend  Don  Carlos  met  me  at  the  station.  It  being 
so  early,  we  decided  to  take  a  stroll  before  breakfast.  We 
passed  between  Tiger  Hill  and  another  "cerro,"  both  cactus 
clad,  toward  the  city  cemetery.  The  mist  was  on  the  hills  and 
as  we  gazed  up  through  the  mist  I  noticed  that  the  cacti  on 
the  hilltops  were  tipped  with  black.  Guess  the  explanation. 
They  were  crowned  with  buzzards.  The  buzzards  had  certainly 
chosen  roosts  where  they  were  safe  from  attack,  if  that  was 
their  object,  though  what  would  attack  a  buzzard  I  cannot 
imagine.  At  any  rate  it  seems  the  great  organ  cactus  is  their 
favorite  roost. 

We  passed  on  to  the  cemetery.  Like  the  ordinary  Span- 
ish cemetery  it  was  enclosed  by  a  high  stone  wall,  but  unlike  it 
the  graves  were  not  in  niches  in  the  wall  but  were  laid  out 
upon  the  ground.  In  the  center  of  the  cemetery  was  a  mag- 
nificent mausoleum  containing  the  remains  of  the  principal 
woman  of  the  town,  Dona  Juana  Romero.  She  had  died  about 

58 


DON  CARLOS  DE  SAN  BLAS  59 

two  years  before.  Gazing  through  the  plateglass  doors  of  the 
tomb  we  saw  her  casket,  against  the  opposite  wall  an  altar 
surmounted  by  a  beautiful  brazen  cross,  and  on  each  side  of 
the  casket  an  immense  candle  fully  three  inches  in  diameter, 
of  pure  beeswax.  Don  Carlos  looked  lovingly  upon  the  latter 
as  he  had  the  monopoly  of  the  beeswax  business  in  that  part 
of  the  country. 

A  unique  feature  of  the  cemetery  was  a  miniature  repro- 
duction of  a  Mexican  church,  bell-tower  and  all.  It  was  the 
tomb  of  one  of  the  leading  citizens.  And  near  the  center  of 
the  enclosure  was  another  feature  of  a  nature  not  so  pleasing. 
Here  was  an  extensive  area  covered  with  red  tile  flagging, 
and  Don  Carlos  told  me  that  beneath  the  flagging  lay  the 
remains  of  the  many  who  had  perished  of  yellow  fever  in  the 
years  that  had  passed.  That  was  many  years  back.  There 
has  been  no  epidemic  of  yellow  fever  on  the  Isthmus  of  recent 
years. 

I  was  disposed  to  linger  amid  these  scenes  but  the 
mercurial  Don  Carlos  was  of  a  different  opinion.  He  had  al- 
ready planned  a  walk  around  Tiger  Hill,  so  we  bade  farewell 
to  the  city  of  the  dead  and  resumed  our  trip.  A  half  hour's 
walk  brought  us  to  San  Bias,  a  suburb  of  Tehuantepec  with  a 
population  of  three  or  four  thousand.  As  we  entered  the 
place  Don  Carlos'  quick  eye  noted  a  large  cotton  tree.  It  was 
in  full  bloom  and,  early  as  it  was,  one  of  his  bees  was  at  work 
on  each  blossom. 

Another  fifteen  minutes  brought  us  to  the  principal 
church  of  the  place.  We  must  attend  church,  for  a  due  respect 
for  things  ecclesiastical  meant  an  increased  sale  of  beeswax  to 
make  the  all-essential  candle ;  so  we  made  our  way  toward  the 
church  door.  Inside  the  church  the  women,  heads  covered  with 
their  beautiful  lace  huipiles  grandes,  sat  in  rows  upon  the 


60  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

pavement,  while  the  men  filled  the  entrance  and  the  space 
before  the  door,  which  was  roofed  over  to  protect  them  from 
the  sun.  An  aged  priest  in  full  vestments  was  intoning  the 
mass ;  an  orchestra,  for  want  of  an  organ,  filling  in  the  inter- 
vals. Now  it  so  happened  that  the  good  old  priest  was  as  deaf 
as  an  adder,  and  the  musicians  had  taken  advantage  of  his  mis- 
fortune to  play  a  dance  tune  instead  of  the  sacred  music  pre- 
scribed. The  congregation  seemed  thoroughly  satisfied,  their 
point  of  view  seeming  to  be  that  as  the  priest  was  deceived  it 
was  all  right. 

We  now  proceeded  on  our  way  and  eventually  got  back  to 
Tehuantepec  and  in  a  few  minutes  reached  the  municipal 
center,  which  in  Tehuantepec  consists  of  a  plaza  or  park  with 
an  adjoining  market.  As  in  the  case  of  most  Indian  towns, 
stores  such  as  exist  in  more  northern  lands  are  of  minor  conse- 
quence, most  of  the  retail  business  of  the  place  being  trans- 
acted in  the  market.  Thither  every  morning  the  Tehuanas 
foregather  with  their  wares. 

The  Tehuantepec  market  is  famed  throughout  the  Isth- 
mus. It  is  housed  under  a  great  tile  roof  supported  by  im- 
mense pillars  of  masonry.  The  market  was  jamb  full  of  Te- 
huanas clad  in  the  brightest  colors  imaginable.  There  were 
few  things  which  could  not  be  bought  in  that  market  but  what 
interested  me  most  were  the  fruits.  Almost  every  sort  of 
tropical  fruit  was  to  be  had ;  great  pineapples ;  luscious  chicos ; 
fresh  coconuts,  each  enclosing  a  good  cool  drink;  immense 
papayas;  in  fact,  everything  except  oranges,  which  were  ap- 
parently not  in  season. 

The  fruits  investigated,  we  passed  on  to  the  flower  mar- 
ket. One  aisle  of  the  market  was  occupied  by  the  flower  girls. 
The  display  here  was  well  worth  seeing  for  I  doubt  if  there  is 
among  the  children  of  men  a  race  more  fond  of  flowers  than 


The   Chapel  on  the  Hill,  Santa  Maria 


A  Street  Sceae  in  Tehuantepec 


American  Consulate,  Salina  Cruz 


DON  CARLOS  DE  SAN  BLAS  61 

the  Tehuanos.  Many  of  the  little  holdings  on  the  outskirts  of 
the  city  are  devoted  exclusively  to  flower  culture.  Sunday 
and  Thursday  are  red-letter  days  in  the  flower  market.  In 
the  morning  long  trains  of  women  troop  toward  the  market 
bearing  on  their  heads  great  trays  of  flowers.  These  flowers 
are  sold  during  the  day  and  in  the  cool  of  the  afternoon  an- 
other procession  of  women  sets  forth  for  the  cemetery  with 
flowers  to  decorate  the  graves  of  the  dead — a  beautiful  custom. 

Escaping  from  the  buzz  of  the  market,  Don  Carlos  and 
I  lunched  at  an  adjoining  restaurant;  after  which  we  made 
our  way  toward  Santa  Maria,  across  the  river  from  Tehuan- 
tepec.  There  was  to  be  a  fiesta  there  (it  was  the  patron  saint's 
day)  and  we  had  invited  ourselves  to  the  function. 

We  arrived  at  the  scene  of  festivities.  A  lively  dance  was 
in  progress  in  a  great  covered  court.  About  the  entrance  many 
booths  had  been  erected  at  which  all  sorts  of  goodies  were  be- 
ing sold.  Hot  and  thirsty  after  our  walk  under  the  broiling 
January  sun,  we  felt  particularly  in  need  of  a  good  cool  drink 
and  after  looking  about  a  bit  decided  on  tamarind.  You  have 
doubtless  been  accustomed  to  think  of  tamarind  as  a  drug,  but 
I  can  assure  you  it  makes  a  very  pleasant  drink.  The  woman 
who  served  us  took  from  a  bottle  a  tamarind  ball  about  an  inch 
in  diameter,  dropped  it  into  a  glass,  and,  filling  the  glass  with 
water,  handed  it  to  me.  A  few  turns  of  the  spoon  sufficed  to 
dissolve  the  tamarind,  and  the  result  was  a  drink  fit  for  a 
king. 

The  tamarind  tree  is  very  common  in  that  land.  It  bears 
an  abundance  of  large  beanlike  pods  containing  beans  em- 
bedded in  a  green  pulpy  substance,  the  tamarind  of  commerce. 
Considering  its  cheapness  it  is  a  wonder  that  it  has  never  been 
introduced  into  either  Europe  or  the  United  States  as  a 
beverage. 


62  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

When  we  entered  the  dance  court  there  must  have  been 
at  least  fifty  couples  on  the  floor.  Being  foreigners,  and  hence 
distinguished  visitors,  we  were  immediately  seized  by  certain 
of  the  old  men  who  were  acting  as  the  reception  committee, 
and  taken  to  seats  of  dignity  at  the  west  end  of  the  court. 
Everyone  of  them,  after  the  manner  of  elderly  Zapotecs,  wore 
a  little  pointed  beard,*  and  they  were  wonderfully  polite  and 
hospitable.  Nothing  would  do  but  we  must  go  straight  to  the 
table  and  pledge  them  in  a  glass  of  strong  mescal,  and  every 
few  minutes  one  of  their  number  would  come  up  to  replenish 
our  glass. 

Among  the  dancers  were  four  or  five  mestizo  men,  but  all 
the  others,  and  the  women  without  exception,  were  Indian. 
All  the  women  were  dressed  in  full  Tehuana  ball  costume:  A 
full  skirt  with  a  white  flounce,  the  latter  generally  of  fine 
lace;  a  loose  sleeveless  jacket  (the  huipil)  of  red,  purple,  or 
brown,  with  large  white  or  yellow  polka  dots,  trimmed  with 
broad  bands  of  yellow  embroidery;  and  chains  of  gold  coins 
about  their  necks.  Their  hair  was  worn  in  two  braids  tied 
with  pink  ribbons,  and  each  wore  artificial  flowers  of  the 
brightest  hue  over  her  temples.  As  though  this  were  not 
color  enough,  each  girl  carried  a  silk  handkerchief  of  red, 
purple,  blue,  yellow,  or  some  other  gaudy  color.  Many  of  them 
were,  without  exaggeration,  dressed  in  every  color  of  the  rain- 
bow. With  white  women  the  result  would  have  been  ridic- 
ulous, but  Tehuanas  look  charming  in  bright  colors. 

It  is  difficult  to  keep  away  from  Tehuantepec.  Early 
March  found  me  there  again.  In  the  morning  Don  Carlos  and 
I  went  out  to  visit  a  Mr.  Wilbur  Barker,  an  American  who 

*The  Zapotecs,  to  which  race  the  Tehuanos  pertain,  are  much  more 
hairy  than  the  northern  Indian.  Frequently  the  arms  of  the  woman  are 
quite  hairy,  although  the  hair  of  their  heads  is  noticeably  short. 


DON  CARLOS  DE  SAN  BLAS  63 

had  a  small  plantation  in  improved  varieties  of  tropical  fruits ; 
principally  coconuts  and  aguacates  (alligator  pears).  The 
trees  were  well  started  and  in  a  few  years  would  be  bringing 
him  good  money ;  for  though  the  Indian  lacks  the  initiative  to 
procure  and  set  out  new  sorts,  he  knows  good  fruit  when  he 
sees  it  and  is  ready  to  pay  the  price.  Barker  also  had  a  few 
young  bamboo  trees.  The  bamboo  is  not  native  to  these  parts 
and  these  were  the  only  ones  I  met  with  while  on  the  Pacific 
plains.  Mr.  Barker  has  since  been  appointed  American  vice 
consul  at  Salina  Cruz. 

We  returned  toward  town,  walking  between  lofty  hedge 
fences  of  Spanish  plum  and  the  Mexican  mucilage  tree  (Gula- 
bere).  This  is  the  land  of  the  living  fence.  Several  species 
of  bushes  and  trees  make  excellent  fence  material,  the  pinon 
or  tropical  birch,  the  mucilage  tree,  and  the  Spanish  plum 
being  most  generaly  used  for  this  purpose. 

The  mucilage  tree  is  a  showy  tree  full  of  light  yellow 
flowers  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  which  flowers  are  suc- 
ceeded by  large  berries  resembling  white  currants  in  appear- 
ance. The  juice  of  these  berries  is  extensively  used  as  a  substi- 
tute for  the  mucilage  of  commerce.  On  the  bookkeeper's  desk 
you  will  generally  find  a  bunch  of  them,  which  are  crushed  as 
needed.  If  at  a  business  office  you  ask  for  mucilage,  they  will 
hand  you  one  of  these  berries.  The  extracted  juice  may  be 
bottled  and  kept  for  a  considerable  time. 

The  Spanish  plum  is  one  of  the  best  fencing  materials. 
In  two  or  three  years  from  planting  it  develops  into  a  sturdy 
little  tree  six  inches  in  diameter  with  a  beautiful  top,  and  in 
season  is  loaded  with  an  abundance  of  fruit,  yellow  or  red. 
The  Spanish  plum  is  quite  a  different  article  from  the  true 
plum,  though  in  flavor  somewhat  resembling  the  latter.  It  is 
extensively  used  for  preserves. 


64  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

I  have  already  mentioned  the  organ  cactus.  It  is  the  best 
of  all  hedge  plants  both  on  account  of  its  great  beauty  and 
because  it  does  not  require  irrigation  and  forms  the  most 
effectual  barrier  against  livestock.  But  cactus  hedges  are  the 
least  used  as  more  labor  is  required  in  starting  them. 

In  the  cool  of  the  afternoon  we  hunted  up  the  local  judge 
and  started  for  the  top  of  Tiger  Hill  to  see  the  tiger's  cave. 
It  was  a  long  steep  climb  up  narrow  rocky  gullies,  with  cacti 
of  many  sorts  growing  on  either  hand.  We  did  not  come  with- 
in sight  of  the  peak  until  we  were  almost  upon  it.  Then  what 
was  our  surprise  to  see  it  surmounted  by  what  appeared  to  be 
a  pyramid  of  gaily-dressed  Tehuanas.  I  was  at  a  loss  to  ac- 
count for  the  phenomenon!  until  coming  closer,  we  perceived 
that  in  some  past  time  a  stepped  pyramid  of  brick  had  been 
erected  upon  the  summit. 

It  being  Sunday,  the  Tehuanas  had  climbed  the  hill  in 
obedience  to  a  vow,  and  were  standing  on  the  steps  of  the 
pyramid  trying  to  light  the  candles  which  they  had  placed 
between  the  three  crosses  which  surmounted  it.  Unfortunately 
a  stiff  norther  was  blowing,  which  extinguished  the  candles 
as  fast  as  they  were  lit. 

It  is  indeed  a  glorious  vision  which  the  traveler  beholds 
from  the  summit  of  Tiger  Hill ;  in  the  foreground  the  hills  of 
the  Holy  City  while  beyond  in  every  direction  stretches  the 
verdant  plain,  as  level  as  a  floor,  save  where  here  and  there 
solitary  cerros  lift  their  heads.  Far  to  the  northwest,  seven 
leagues  away,  tower  the  azure  heights  of  Quiengola,  rich  in 
legend;  a  lofty  rampart  walls  in  the  plain  until  in  the  far 
northeast  the  eye  falls  on  pictured  Dani  Guiati ;  and  away  to 
the  east,  on  the  placid  bosom  of  the  great  lagoon,  sits  the  Isle 
of  the  Enchanted  Cave.  The  scene  is  grand  beyond  descrip- 
tion, nor  could  I  find  it  in  my  heart  to  blame  those  gentle 
Tehuanas  if  they  had,  as  I  half  suspected,  made  the  perform- 


DON  CARLOS  DE  SAN  BLAS  65 

ance  of  a  vow  but  the  pretense  to  excuse  their  journey  to  this 
point  of  vantage. 

The  judge  now  explained  that  the  tiger's  cave  was  down 
from  the  summit  about  fifty  feet  on  the  side  opposite  that 
which  we  had  ascended.  Don  Carlos,  however,  who  had  a  soft 
spot  in  his  heart  for  fair  women,  refused  to  budge  from  the 
neighborhood  of  the  living  pyramid;  arguing  that  our  objec- 
tive had  been  the  summit  of  the  hill,  not  the  cave.  So  we  left 
him  with  the  Tehuanas,  who  were  seven,  and  began  the  descent 
to  the  cave. 

sTen  minutes  brought  us  to  the  mouth  of  the  cave.  The 
entrance  was  very  narrow  and  at  a  distance  of  eight  or  ten 
feet  the  cavern  branched  into  three  corridors  which  ascended 
at  a  steep  angle  into  the  heart  of  the  hill.  It  was  an  ideal  lair 
for  the  tiger,  and  I  do  not  wonder  that  with  this  means  of 
retreat  he  was  able  to  set  the  town  at  defiance  and  make  way 
with  many  a  head  of  young  stock  and  an  occasional  youngster 
before  he  was  slain.  Many  generations  have  passed  since  the 
tiger  met  his  fate,  but  the  remembrance  of  his  ferocious  deeds 
still  lives  in  the  folklore  of  the  people. 

"There  is  a  painting  on  the  roof  of  the  cave,  made  by  the 
Indians  of  the  olden  time/'  said  the  judge,  "perhaps  you  would 
like  to  see  it."  Of  course  I  would,  and  so,  although  the  cave 
was  very  low,  we  entered  it.  And  on  the  roof  of  the  corridor 
to  the  left,  only  a  few  feet  from  the  outer  entrance,  we  found 
the  painting.  It  was  in  black  and  was  evidently  intended  to 
represent  a  tiger. 

Returning  to  the  summit,  we  found  Don  Carlos  deeply 
enamored  of  three  or  four  of  the  Indian  maidens,  but  we 
finally  got  him  started  and  placing  him  before  us,  so  as  to 
preclude  the  possibility  of  retreat,  began  the  descent.  When 
we  were  halfway  down  the  hill  we  turned  and  saw  the  Te- 


66  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

huanas  waving  their  handkerchiefs  at  us.  Some  of  the  hand- 
kerchiefs were  red,  some  green,  some  yellow,  and  some  white, 
and  as  usual  the  girls  were  clad  in  every  color  of  the  rainbow. 
I  had  the  only  handkerchief  in  our  party.  The  Don  borrowed 
it  of  me  and  returned  the  salute;  after  which  he  felt  better. 
Seizing  the  opportunity,  I  reminded  him  that  something  might 
have  occurred  to  his  beloved  bees  during  our  absence,  and  he 
fairly  rushed  down  the  hill  with  us  at  his  heels. 

The  lure  of  the  old  town  is  irresistible  and  it  was  not 
long  before  I  found  myself  there  once  more.  We  were  a  party 
of  four  and  we  took  our  way  across  the  bridge  to  the  suburb 
of  Santa  Maria.  This  suburb  has  a  fine  church  which  we  pro- 
ceeded to  visit. 

We  found  at  the  entrance  a  worthy  Indian  of  great 
breadth,  who  informed  us  that  he  was  the  principal  (senior 
warden)  of  the  church  and  courteously  offered  to  show  us 
through  the  edifice.  Among  other  images  which  graced  its 
walls  (may  Allah  forgive  His  servant  for  gazing  upon  them) 
was  a  Black  Christ.  Our  guide  assured  us  that  many  para- 
lytics annually  visited  the  church  and  kissing  the  Black  Christ 
were  cured  of  their  infirmities. 

As  we  passed  from  the  church  the  principal  directed  our 
attention  to  the  western  bell  tower.  The  bells  were  swung 
by  hand  and  it  sometimes  happened  that  a  bell  thrower  lost 
his  footing  and  fell  from  the  tower.  Miraculous  powers  were, 
it  seemed,  associated  with  the  tower,  for  the  principal  assured 
us  that  if  a  person  falling  from  the  tower  cried  "Asuncion 
de  la  Augusta"  he  would  not  be  harmed.  This  he  said  had 
happened  on  several  occasions.  Questioned  closer,  he  stated 
that  all  those  who  had  fallen  had  failed  to  utter  the  mystic 
words  while  in  mid  air — which  I  can  well  believe — and  had 


DON  CARLOS  DE  SAN  BLAS  67 

been  injured  or  killed  by  the  fall;  which  of  course  was  proof 
sufficient. 

In  parting,  the  principal  pressed  us  to  attend  a  dance  to 
be  held  that  afternoon.  So  after  dinner  we  set  out  for  the 
barrio  in  which  the  function  was  to  take  place.  On  arrival 
we  found  the  house  well  filled  with  dancing  Indians.  After 
each  set  the  male  dancers  took  seats  on  one  side  of  the  hall, 
the  Tehuanas  on  the  other.  Over  at  the  end,  behind  a  huge 
table,  sat  the  principal,  who  was  officiating  as  master  of  cere- 
monies, surrounded  by  the  members  of  the  vestry;  for  the 
dance,  you  must  know,  was  a  strictly  church  affair,  though 
the  master  of  the  house  was  expected  to  foot  the  bill. 

We  had  come  because  two  of  our  party  had  cameras  and 
we  had  been  told  the  Tehuanas  at  this  dance  would  be  espe- 
cially handsome ;  and  so  they  were.  Six  beauties  sat  together, 
and  other  six,  not  quite  so  pretty,  next  to  them.  At  the  first 
intermission  our  photographers  got  busy  with  the  girls,  who 
proved  coy,  after  the  manner  of  their  sex.  We  thereupon  re- 
sorted to  strategy.  Don  Carlos  and  myself  presented  our- 
selves before  the  principal  and  his  reverend  colleagues  and 
gravely  requested  an  "order"  requiring  the  Tehuanas  to  sub- 
mit. The  principal  with  great  dignity  acceded  to  the  request 
and  I  turned  back  to  secure  the  photos.  But  even  as  I  did  so 
the  Don  rushed  upon  us  in  great  excitement,  his  eyes  fairly 
bursting  from  their  sockets,  with  the  announcement  that  we 
had  stirred  up  a  veritable  hornet's  nest. 

The  master  of  the  house  had  taken  umbrage  because  we 
had  called  upon  the  principal  for  assistance  instead  of  calling 
upon  him.  We  returned  to  the  table.  A  heated  debate  was  in 
progress  between  the  two  worthies.  Each  stood  upon  his 
rights  and  neither  would  yield.  All  the  men  gathered  about 
the  two  disputants.  The  atmosphere  grew  every  moment  hot- 


68  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

ter,  and  we  finally  decided  we  had  best  decamp.  But  on  turn- 
ing to  leave  we  discovered  that  our  men  had  in  the  meantime 
secured  the  coveted  photographs,  having  represented  to  the 
Tehuanas  that  the  Traveler  was  very  angry  with  them  because 
they  would  not  permit  the  taking  of  their  pictures. 

I  am  very  glad  that  I  visited  Tehuantepec  on  Good  Friday. 
It  was  a  great  day  in  the  ancient  city.  In  the  morning  we 
went  to  the  cathedral.  The  images  of  Christ,  the  Virgin,  and 
St.  John,  dressed  in  the  most  gorgeous  apparel,  were  brought 
out  and  paraded  about  the  church.  Christ  was  represented 
in  the  likeness  of  a  brown  man,  a  concession  to  the  Indians. 

They  held  a  long  service  before  the  image  of  Christ,  who 
was  represented  as  carrying  his  cross,  but  clad  in  a  rich  robe 
of  blue  velvet  and  with  a  golden  auriole  over  his  head.  He  was 
attended  by  four  little  girls  dressed  up  as  angels  with  wings, 
bearing  little  silver  swords. 

After  this  the  chancel  was  converted  into  a  stage,  on 
which  was  portrayed  the  old  story  of  the  Crucifixion.  It  was  all 
very  realistic.  Three  crosses  were  erected,  on  which  were 
hung  life-size  figures  of  Christ  and  the  two  thieves.  The 
images  of  the  Virgin,  St.  John,  and  the  Magdalen  were  brought 
to  the  foot  of  the  cross,  while  certain  men  dressed  as  Roman 
soldiers  and  others  carried  the  spear  with  which  his  side  was 
pierced,  the  sponge,  etc.  Finally  He  was  taken  down  from  the 
cross  and  buried;  and  in  the  last  act  He  was  being  carried 
about  in  state  in  a  glass  casket. 

Now  the  ringing  of  bells  is  not  permitted  on  Good  Friday. 
So  instead  of  ringing  bells,  at  appropriate  times  during  the 
service  they  shook  a  three-sided  box  having  iron  knockers  on 
the  side,  which  made  a  tremendous  racket. 

After  the  service  we  went  over  to  the  plaza  where  we 


DON  CARLOS  DE  SAN  BLAS  69 

found  things  the  reverse  of  religious.  All  one  side  of  the  plaza 
was  occupied  by  gaming  tables  of  one  sort  and  another.  Money 
was  piled  high  on  every  table  and  the  games  were  in  full  swing. 
Along  the  full  length  of  a  second  side  booths  had  been  im- 
provised for  the  sale  of  liquor;  of  whose  potency  we  were  well 
able  to  judge  by  the  number  of  "hombres"  we  saw  making 
their  way  toward  home  in  the  evening,  with  three  sheets  in 
the  wind,  tacking  from  side  to  side  as  they  went. 

Every  now  and  then  a  posse  of  police  passed  in  the  act  of 
conducting  some  over-hilarious  individual  to  jail.  The  drunken 
Indian  is  naturally  about  as  unmanageable  as  those  of  his  class 
the  world  over,  but  the  Mexican  police  have  discovered  a 
unique  method  of  expediting  his  movements.  A  stout  staff  is 
passed  through  his  belt  at  the  back  and  given  a  twist.  With 
a  policeman  at  each  end  of  the  staff  and  two  others  grasping 
the  culprit  by  either  hand,  he  is  kept  on  his  feet  and  hustled 
off  to  jail,  whether  or  no. 

This  was  of  course  a  great  occasion  for  the  women.  There 
is  a  fine  park  in  the  plaza,  surrounded  by  a  wide  brick-paved 
walk.  Here,  in  the  cool  of  the  afternoon,  the  belles  of  the  town 
foregathered  and  promenaded,  dressed  in  their  many-colored 
skirts  and  gorgeously  embroidered  jackets,  with  huipiles 
grandes  of  richly  colored  silk  and  fine  lace  surmounting  all. 

This  huipil  grande  was  evidently  once  an  embroidered 
upper  garment,  but  has  been  reduced  in  size  and  metamor- 
phosed into  the  headdress  of  state.  It  consists  of  a  body  of 
yellow  or  green,  embroidered  with  orange  or  blood  red,  and 
trimmed  with  a  collar  and  deep  flounce  of  stiffly  starched 
lace.  In  church  the  huipil  grande  is  brought  up  over  the  head, 
the  lace  collar  fitting  about  the  face  so  as  to  give  these  daugh- 
ters of  the  sun  a  rather  nunnish  appearance.  But  on  leaving 
the  church  it  is  pushed  back  and  falls  from  the  hair,  trailing 


70  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

down  the  back.  The  impression  is  much  better.  It  reminds 
one  of  the  conventional  Indian  headdress  of  eagle  feathers  and 
may  perhaps  be  derived  from  it. 

It  is  said  that  the  number  of  handsome  Tehuanas  fre- 
quenting the  streets  was  formerly  far  greater  than  at  present. 
It  seems  to  have  been  the  custom  of  certain  lawless  military 
officers  to  carry  off  Tehuanas  whenever  it  suited  their  fancy. 
I  was  told  that  one  of  the  most  beautiful  young  women  of  the 
town  was  spirited  away  in  this  manner.  After  a  time  she 
escaped  and  returned  to  her  home.  Shame  preyed  upon  her 
and  after  a  little  she  lost  her  reason.  Such  conditions  existing, 
it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  many  families  had  sent  their 
daughters  away  to  dwell  with  friends  in  the  fastnesses  of  the 
mountains  until  the  return  of  peace. 

Perhaps  I  should  mention  here  the  matter  of  baptism. 
Baptism  is  a  great  institution  among  the  Indians.  Of  course 
no  children  were  baptized  on  Good  Friday,  but  on  ordinary 
occasions  one  always  saw  a  number  of  mothers  bringing  their 
latest  offspring  to  the  cathedral  for  baptism.  The  event  was 
duly  advertised  by  the  proud  parents,  each  baby  being  covered 
with  a  pink  silk  handkerchief  purchased  expressely  for  the 
occasion. 

I  had  several  dear  friends  in  Santa  Maria,  across  the 
river  from  Tehuantepec.  Mr.  Barker  has  been  mentioned. 
Then  there  was  another  American,  Clarence  Harvey,  who 
lived  in  a  little  street  behind  the  Santa  Maria  church,  and 
with  him  his  younger  brothers  and  sisters.  There  was  Guen- 
dolina,  my  paisana,  a  wonderful  creature,  but  who,  being  a 
good  Catholic,  never  ceased  to  rate  me  because  I  had  four 
wives  back  in  Persia ;  there  was  Anastasia,  stern  as  her  eccles- 
iastical name;  and  two  little  brothers  whose  freckled  faces 


DON  CARLOS  DE  SAN  BLAS  71 

bore  witness  to  their  northern  blood.  As  I  write,  word  comes 
that  they  have  all  left  with  Clarence  for  Laguna  Perdida  in 
the  heart  of  the  great  forests  of  northern  Guatemala. 

Up  the  river  a  mile  from  the  home  of  the  Harveys,  right 
at  the  foot  of  Dani  Lieza,  lived  old  John  Story,  superintendent 
of  the  pumps  which  furnished  Salina  Cruz  with  water.  Story 
was  a  great  character.  He  was  a  one-armed  man  and  well 
past  seventy,  but  bubbling  over  with  life  and  as  game  as  a 
fighting  cock.  He  formed  a  great  liking  for  me.  Don  Carlos 
had  strict  orders  to  send  him  word  whenever  I  was  expected 
at  Tehuantepec  and  I  seldom  alighted  from  the  train  but  I 
found  Story  on  hand,  insistent  on  immediate  adjournment  to 
the  Hotel  La  Perla  for  the  all-essential  glass  of  beer. 

With  a  couple  of  bumpers  of  beer  stowed  away,  the  old 
man  grew  loquacious,  and  would  sit  there  reciting  selections 
from  Bobbie  Burns  and  singing  the  Song  of  the  Alamo  for 
hours  at  a  time. 

But  when  autumn  came  and  the  bandits  began  to  multiply 
in  the  land  the  old  man's  joyous  days  came  to  an  end.  A  know- 
ing bandit,  reflecting  that  Story  must  draw  a  good  salary  as 
superintendent  of  the  pumps,  made  him  a  call  and  suggested 
that  he  contribute  two  hundred  pesos  to  the  rebel  cause.  Upon 
meeting  with  a  refusal  he  left,  but  promised  to  call  again. 
Story  at  once  sent  for  me  and  I  left  for  Tehuantepec  on  the 
next  train.  I  conferred  with  the  colonel  in  command  of  that 
military  zone,  who  promised  to  send  a  squad  of  soldiers  to 
protect  the  pumps.  The  soldiers  were  sent  but  after  a  few 
days  were  withdrawn. 

Story  now  prepared  for  trouble.  He  knew  it  was  but  a 
matter  of  a  few  nights  before  the  bandits  would  be  upon  him. 
He  accordingly  secured  a  couple  of  revolvers  and  sent  his  fam- 
ily into  the  town  every  night.  His  helpers  at  the  pumps,  hav- 


72  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

ing  no  liking  for  trouble,  also  left  the  place  at  sundown.  The 
old  man  was  alone.  Then  the  expected  happened. 

One  evening  Don  Carlos  telephoned  me  that  there  had 
been  trouble  at  the  pumps.  I  took  the  morning  train  for  Te- 
huantepec.  Don  Carlos  met  me  at  the  station  and  together  we 
hastened  across  the  river  and  made  for  Dani  Lieza.  We  found 
the  hero  of  the  Alamo  sitting  on  the  veranda  of  his  house  on  the 
hillside  just  above  the  pumps. 

"How's  everything,  Story?"  I  asked.  "Oh,  everything  is 
all  hunky-dory,"  he  responded.  "Had  a  little  excitement  last 
night,  guess  Don  Carlos  told  you.  After  everyone  had  left  the 
place,  about  nine  o'clock,  the  bandits  showed  up ;  quite  a  band 
of  'em.  They  invited  me  to  come  out  for  a  parley,  but  I 
thought  I'd  better  stay  inside.  Then  they  opened  fire  on  the 
house.  Just  look  here."  And  with  that  he  showed  me  over 
the  place.  It  was  one  of  those  Pearson  frame  houses  and  had 
been  literally  riddled  with  balls  during  the  night's  encounter. 

"I  stayed  here  in  the  dark  and  fired  through  the  window," 
Story  resumed.  "Couldn't  do  much,  you  know,  as  it  takes  lots 
of  time  to  load  where  a  fellow  has  only  one  hand.  But  I  feel 
pretty  sure  that  I  got  one  of  them.  There  were  traces  of 
blood  when  we  examined  the  ground  this  morning." 

The  inspection  over,  we  sat  down  again  and  discussed  the 
situation.  In  the  end  I  assured  him  that  I  would  see  that  a 
detachment  of  soldiers  was  stationed  there  permanently.  We 
shook  hands  and  the  Don  and  I  made  off  for  Tehuantepec.  A 
little  pressure  secured  the  desired  guard  for  the  pumps. 

I  am  told  that  there  has  been  no  more  trouble  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Dani  Lieza  and  that  the  old  man  is  alive  and  pros- 
pering; but  this  I  know,  that  the  pumps  will  never  be  taken 
by  any  rebel  band,  save  over  the  dead  body  of  old  John  Story. 


CHAPTER  V. 
FARTHER  AFIELD. 

THE  picture  of  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  which  I 
conjured  up  when  as  a  child  I  bent  over  my  little 
primary  geography,  was  that  of  a  depression,  prac- 
tically at  sea  level,  separating  the  plateau  region  of  central 
Mexico  from  the  highlands  of  Chiapas  and  Central  America; 
an  impression  which,  I  imagine,  does  not  differ  greatly  from 
that  of  most  otherwise  well-informed  readers.  But  it  is  very 
far  from  the  reality.  Everyone  has  heard  more  or  less  of  the 
various  schemes  for  constructing  a  canal  or  ship  railway 
across  the  Isthmus.  These  schemes  all  came  to  naught  because 
the  Isthmus  was  not  a  plain,  but  was  on  the  contrary  inter- 
sected by  a  mountain  range  many  miles  in  width.  It  is  a  con- 
troverted question  whether  Captain  Ead's  plan  for  a  ship 
railway  and  Captain  Shufeldt's  project  for  a  canal  were  either 
of  these  feasible.  Both  involved  works  rising  from  sea  level 
to  a  height  of  over  700  feet  and  the  traversing  of  many  miles 
of  mountainous  country. 

The  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  runs  in  a  direct  east  and 
west  line  between  the  southwestern  extremity  of  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  on  the  north  and  the  Gulf,  or  rather  Bight,  of  Te- 
huantepec on  the  south.  Across  country  from  Puerto  Mexico 
on  the  Gulf  to  the  shores  of  the  Upper  Lagoon,  which  connects 
with  the  Pacific,  the  distance  is  but  125  miles ;  though  the  dis- 
tance by  rail  from  Puerto  Mexico  to  Salina  Cruz  is  189  miles. 

The  dominant  feature  of  this  region  is  the  great  river 
Coatzacoalcos.  This  stream  rises  in  the  rocky  defiles  of  the 

73 


74  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Chimalapa  Mountains,  within  less  than  forty  miles  of  the 
Pacific,  flows  in  a  northwesterly  direction  until  joined  by  the 
Escolapa  from  the  south  and  then,  bending  sharply  to  the 
north,  proceeds  almost  directly  north  to  the  latitude  of  Santa 
Lucrecia,  where  it  is  joined  by  the  Jal tepee.  At  Santa  Lu- 
crecia  the  Coatzacoalcos  turns  abruptly  to  the  right  and  flows 
in  a  general  northeasterly  direction  until  it  enters  the  Gulf 
at  Puerto  Mexico.  It  is  a  majestic  river  nearly  a  half  mile 
in  width  in  its  lower  reaches,  and  is  navigable  for  ocean  going 
vessels  as  far  up  as  Minatitlan. 

The  northern  third  of  the  Isthmus,  as  far  south  as  Santa 
Lucrecia,  is  included  within  the  Gulf  plains,  the  true  tierra 
caliente  of  Mexico,  a  region  covered  with  dense  jungle,  save 
where  cleared  by  man.  The  center,  from  Santa  Lucrecia  to 
within  thirty  miles  of  the  Pacific,  is  a  mountainous  region, 
though  an  ever  narrowing  continuation  of  the  Gulf  plain 
stretches  back  from  the  east  bank  of  the  Coatzacoalcos  from 
this  point  into  the  very  heart  of  the  mountains.  At  its  mouth 
in  the  latitude  of  Santa  Lucrecia  this  valley  is  perhaps  thirty 
miles  wide,  narrowing  as  it  enters  the  mountains  and  finally 
disappearing  as  Santa  Maria  Chimalapa  is  neared. 

Santa  Lucrecia  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Tehuantepec  and 
Vera  Cruz  al  Istmo  railroads,  and  thus  is  the  gateway  to  the 
Pacific  region  of  the  Isthmus ;  for  in  normal  times  when  travel 
is  safe  the  traveler  will  land  at  Vera  Cruz  and  proceed  by  the 
Vera  Cruz  al  Istmo  line  to  Santa  Lucrecia,  where  he  will  put 
up  for  the  night,  catching  the  morning  train  southbound.  The 
point  is  strategic,  being  not  only  at  the  junction  of  the  only 
two  railroads  in  the  northern  part  of  the  Isthmus,  but  also 
finely  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Coatzacoalcos  with  its 
most  important  tributary,  the  Jaltepec,  and  surrounded  by 


FARTHER  AFIELD  75 

lands  of  wonderful  fertility.  But  for  some  reason  the  place 
has  not  grown.  It  is  still  a  small  village  of  no  commercial 
importance. 

Immediately  south  of  Santa  Lucrecia  the  railroad  crosses 
the  Jaltepec  or  Rio  de  los  Mijes,  at  that  point  some  300  feet 
wide.  This  beautiful  stream  has  its  source  in  the  Mije  Sierra, 
a  densely  wooded  district  formerly  inhabited  by  the  once  pow- 
erful Mije  (or  Mixe)  Indians,  who  still  inhabit  the  town  of 
San  Juan  Guichicovi. 

South  of  the  Jaltepec  the  railroad  keeps  well  to  the  west 
of  the  Coatzacoalcos  and  at  a  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles 
the  scenery  begins  to  change.  The  tropical  landscape  of  the 
plains  is  left  behind ;  the  country  through  which  we  are  speed- 
ing becomes  broken  and  wild.  Stony  hills  stretch  away  to  the 
west,  while  in  the  distant  east  tower  the  rugged  ramparts  of 
the  mountains  of  Chimalapa.  Higher  and  higher  the  train 
rushes  through  the  hills,  which  now  assume  a  wild  grandeur, 
and  approach  nearer  and  nearer,  until  at  Chivela  we  reach 
the  summit  of  the  pass.*  Just  west  of  the  summit  on  the 
crest  of  a  high  hill  is  a  watch-tower,  a  monument  to  mark  the 
summit  of  the  pass. 

On  the  Isthmus  the  sierra  takes  an  east  and  west  direc- 
tion and,  compared  with  the  adjoining  plateaux  of  Chiapas 
and  Oaxaca,  is  at  this  point  both  low  and  narrow.  The  high- 
est peaks  have  an  elevation  of  less  than  3,000  feet  and  the 
mountain  passes  and  plateaux  of  Chivela  and  Tarifa  about 
800  feet ;  and  the  width  of  the  mountain  barrier  is  at  its  nar- 
rowest part  barely  twenty-five  miles.  This  transverse  moun- 
tain mass  is  composed  of  two  limestone  ranges,  the  northern 
or  Majada  Range  and  the  southern  or  Masahua  Range,  be- 
tween which  lies  a  high  synclinal  valley  constituting  the  table 

*The  pass  is  778  feet  above  sea  level. 


76  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

lands  of  Tarifa  and  Chivela.  The  Masahua  seems  to  be  the 
continuation  of  the  Sierra  Madre  and  forms  the  true  dividing 
ridge  between  the  two  oceans. 

This  mountain  region  abounds  in  beautiful  scenery.  Per- 
haps the  most  interesting  locality  is  along  the  upper  reaches 
of  the  Monetza  River.  This  river  springs  from  under 
a  Gothic  arch  cut  by  its  waters  in  the  southwestern  ex- 
tremity of  the  Convento  Hill.  The  hill  consists  of  pure  black 
marble,  and  the  walls  of  the  arch  or  tunnel  which  traverses 
it  are  perforated  and  jagged,  pouring  in  all  directions  fine 
transparent  streams  of  crystalline  and  delicious  water.  This 
natural  arch  or  bridge  is  twenty-five  feet  high,  twenty-three 
feet  broad,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  long.  A  thou- 
sand yards  below  this  point  the  stream,  flowing  over  a  black 
bed  of  fantastically  water-worn  rocks,  plunges  into  a  grand 
cave  fully  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  called  the  Large  Con- 
vento. 

From  Chivela  the  line  descends  and  we  pass  rapidly 
through  San  Geronimo,  Tehuantepec,  and  Salina  Cruz,  the 
cities  of  the  Pacific  plain.  This  district,  much  the  smaller  of 
the  three  regions  in  to  which  the  Isthmus  is  divided,  has  ever 
been  the  more  important  notwithstanding,  and  our  story  lies 
principally  there. 

The  Pacific  plains  are  but  the  continuation  above  sea 
level  of  the  Gulf  of  Tehuantepec ;  indeed  it  cannot  be  so  very 
far  back  in  geologic  ages  that  the  plains  were  themselves  sub- 
merged, the  Pacific  washing  the  very  feet  of  the  mountains, 
for  even  as  late  as  a  hundred  years  ago,  if  tradition  is  to  be 
believed,  the  great  lagoons  were  much  more  extensive  than 
at  present. 

These  lagoons,  of  which  there  are  four,  known  as  the 
Upper,  Lower,  Eastern,  and  Western  (or  Tilema)  lagoons, 
stretch  fully  thirty-five  miles  from  east  to  west  by  fifteen 


FARTHER  AFIELD  77 

miles  from  north  to  south.  The  Upper  Lagoon,  which  is  much 
the  larger  of  the  four,  discharges  through  the  Santa  Teresa 
channel  into  the  Lower  Lagoon,  which  in  turn  communicates 
with  the  sea  by  the  Boca  Barra.  There  is  scarcely  any  per- 
ceptible tide  in  the  lagoons,  but  being  very  shallow — depths 
of  twelve  feet  are  uncommon — and  entrance  from  the  sea 
being  with  difficulty  effected  because  of  the  shifting  sands, 
strong  currents,  and  heavy  surfs  to  be  contended  with  at  the 
Boca  Barra,  they  cannot  be  utilized  for  marine  purposes. 
The  natural  entrance,  the  Boca  Barra,  is  utterly  impractic- 
able. The  current  is  very  swift,  so  that  boats  can  with  diffi- 
culty breast  it,  and  the  sea  breaks  a  mile  from  the  beach,  send- 
ing in  a  surf  that  is  impossible  to  work  in.  At  some  distant 
date  an  artificial  entrance  will  perhaps  be  constructed,  making 
of  this  group  of  lagoons  one  of  the  best  harbors  in  the  world. 

In  the  meantime  these  lagoons  will  continue  to  be  the 
sportsman's  paradise.  Fish  and  wild  fowl  abound.  The  four 
villages  of  Huave  Indians  situate  upon  the  shores  of  the  la- 
goons are  supported  entirely  by  the  fisheries,  the  product 
being  shipped  to  all  the  cities  of  the  plain. 

From  the  lagoons  seven  rivers  radiate,  crossing  the  plain 
like  the  spokes  of  a  great  wheel.  Of  these  the  Tehuantepec 
River  alone  does  not  now  reach  the  lagoons,  but  enters  the 
ocean  at  La  Ventosa,  some  twenty-five  miles  west  of  Boca 
Barra.  Anciently,  however,  it  entered  the  Tilema  Lagoon 
and  the  old  bed  may  still  be  traced  from  a  point  a  short  dis- 
tance north  of  Huilotepec,  eastward  across  the  plain  to  the 
west  end  of  the  lagoon.  This  river  has  its  source  away  back 
among  the  mountains  of  Oaxaca,  it  was  along  its  course  that 
the  conquering  Zapotecs  first  made  their  way  to  the  plains, 
and  it  still  remains  the  most  generally  used  highway. 

The  location  of  Tehuantepec,  on  the  river  half  way  be- 
tween the  mountains  and  its  mouth  at  Ventosa  Bay,  was  doubt- 


78  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

less  largely  determined  by  these  trade  considerations.  Not 
all  the  Indians  one  sees  at  Tehuantepec  are  clad  in  Tehuano 
costume ;  in  fact,  in  the  market  the  dress  of  the  mountaineers 
(Vallistas)  is  almost  as  common.  These  people  are  merchants 
from  the  mountains  and  the  upper  valley  of  the  Tehuantepec 
River.  They  come  with  strings  of  mules  and  burros  laden  with 
the  products  of  the  tierra  templada;  sweet  potatoes,  Chinese 
pomegranates,  apples,  quinces,  peaches,  immense  thornapples 
(tejocote),  kindling  wood  of  fat  pine  (ocote),  beans,  pecans, 
etc.  When  these  are  disposed  of  they  load  their  beasts  with 
the  produce  of  the  plains  and  return  to  their  mountain  homes. 

Tehuantepec,  as  stated  in  the  chapter  devoted  to  that  city, 
lies  between  the  river  and  the  adjacent  hills.  Just  beyond 
those  hills  to  the  southeast  lies  the  suburban  town  of  San 
Bias,  and  one  stopping  off  at  Tehuantepec  will  get  but  a  super- 
ficial idea  of  the  Indian,  who  looms  so  largely  in  those  parts, 
if  he  fails  to  visit  San  Bias.  It  is  but  a  fifteen  minutes*  walk 
from  the  plaza  to  Tehuantepec,  and  yet  as  you  tread  its  streets 
you  feel  that  you  have  at  last  entered  a  city  untainted  by  the 
white  man's  civilization. 

The  population  of  the  place  is  entirely  Indian,  and  Indian 
of  the  most  conservative  type.  Even  the  white-flounced  skirt, 
sacred  badge  of  the  Tehuana,  is  almost  totally  lacking.  The 
women  of  San  Bias  prefer  the  refajo  or  wrapper  of  their  an- 
cestors, though  with  them  it  is  invariably  of  some  bright  color 
as  distinguished  from  the  white  wrapper  of  the  mountaineers. 
The  place  constitutes  a  separate  municipality,  Indian  mayor 
and  all,  and  has  steadfastly  turned  a  deaf  ear  to  all  talk  of 
union  with  Tehuantepec. 

Among  other  ancient  customs  San  Bias  possesses  that  of 
the  barbecue.  While  I  was  on  the  Isthmus  the  mayor  of  the 
place,  who  resembled  politicians  the  world  over,  decided  to 


FARTHER  AFIELD  79 

further  ingratiate  himself  with  the  leading  citizens  by  giving 
a  barbecue,  and  invitations  were  sent  out  accordingly.  The 
federal  judge  stationed  at  Tehuan tepee,  his  wife,  myself,  and 
of  course  the  indispensable  Don  Carlos  Parkins,  were  among 
those  invited.  The  entertainment  was  held  in  a  commodious 
building  near  the  municipal  center. 

I  had  always  supposed  a  barbecue  to  consist  of  an  animal 
roasted  whole;  but  be  that  as  it  may,  on  this  occasion  the 
repast  was  limited  to  ox  heads !  Large  plates  were  placed  be- 
fore the  guests,  on  each  of  which  was  deposited  a  substantial 
ox  head,  hqrns  and  all.  A  flagon  of  beer  was  placed  beside 
each  plate  and  then  we  were  handed  sharp  knives  and  told  to 
get  busy.  The  menu,  ox  heads  and  beer!  Yes,  nothing  more. 

We  were  not  permitted  to  overlook  the  purpose  for  which 
the  barbecue  was  given.  Barbaric  as  you  may  think  the  re- 
past, it  was  prefaced  with  the  usual  flourish  of  Mexican  ora- 
tory. The  judge  must  first  voice  in  ponderous  periods  the 
community's  deep  appreciation  of  the  mayor's  civic  services. 
The  latter  of  course  responded,  modestly  disclaiming  all  merit 
in  himself  and  imputing  the  marked  progress  of  the  town 
during  the  year  last  past  to  the  'enlightened  and  valorous* 
nature  of  the  electorate.  Then,  after  we  had  at  the  instance 
of  the  master  of  ceremonies,  pledged  the  mayor  in  divers 
bumpers  of  beer,  we  turned  our  attention  to  the  ox  heads. 

Being  a  political  function,  only  members  of  the  sterner 
sex  (the  judge's  wife  excepted,  of  course)  had  been  invited. 
There  were  twenty  of  us  present  and  we  fell  to  with  gusto, 
being  heartily  hungry  after  the  long  preliminaries.  Ox  heads 
disappeared  as  if  by  magic,  and  as  fast  as  they  disappeared 
before  the  onslaughts  of  the  heavie**  eaters  barefooted  Indian 
maidens  removed  the  trenchers  and  returned  with  a  fresh 
"portion." 


80  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Moved  by  a  desire  to  appear  appreciative  of  the  honor 
bestowed  upon  us,  we  did  our  best  to  follow  the  example  of  our 
betters,  a  task  at  which  Don  Carlos  at  least  succeeded  fairly 
well.  He  ate  and  ate,  cutting  and  tearing  great  chunks  from 
his  ox  head, — the  while  he,  after  the  approved  fashion,  scat- 
tered compliments  right  and  left  among  the  pretty  female 
attendants — until  I  verily  feared  he  would  burst. 

The  dinner  over  we  all  arose  and  each  in  turn  thanked 
the  mayor  for  his  never-to-be-forgotten  hospitality,  shook  him 
effusively  by  the  hand  and,  Mexican  fashion,  pounded  him  af- 
fectionately on  the  back.  Then,  departing,  we  crossed  the 
flank  of  Tiger  Hill  to  the  summit  which  bounds  San  Bias  on 
that  side,  and  so  looked  down  upon  Tehuantepec. 


But  it  is  time  we  returned  to  our  description  of  the  seven 
rivers  of  the  Pacific  plain.  The  first  of  these,  the  Tehuantepec 
River,  we  have  described.  The  next  four  discharge  their  wa- 
ters into  the  Upper  Lagoon.  Of  these  the  more  westerly,  the 
Rio  de  Perros,  is  also  at  present  the  most  important,  for  on  its 
banks  are  San  Geronimo  and  Juchitan,  after  Tehuantepec  the 
principal  cities  of  the  plain. 

San  Geronimo,  a  place  of  some  6,000  inhabitants,  is  at  the 
junction  of  the  Tehuantepec  and  Pan  American  railways  and 
is  destined  to  become  an  important  commercial  center.  Its 
sole  industry  at  the  present  time  is  the  Cerveceria  del  Istmo, 
the  only  brewery  in  that  part  of  Mexico;  but  with  settled 
conditions  restored,  it  will  be  a  leading  center  for  the  collec- 
tion of  timber,  coffee,  hides,  and  other  produce  for  export. 
In  fact,  the  Compania  Comercial  de  Puebla,  an  American 
controlled  corporation,  has  already  built  a  well-equipped  estab- 
lishment at  this  point,  and  its  genial  manager,  Mr.  A.  A. 


FARTHER  AFIELD  81 

Melby,  has  built  up  a  considerable  business  in  corn,  coffee, 
hides  and  deerskins. 

I  know  not  whether  San  Geronimo  derived  its  name  from 
the  Latin  father  who  wrote  the  Vulgate  or  from  my  old  friend 
Don  Jeronimo  Mahoney  of  Reforma — it  matters  not,  for  they 
were  both  holy  men — but  certain  I  am  that  it  is  in  appearance 
the  least  attractive  of  the  cities  of  the  plain ;  and  this  not  be- 
cause of  natural  disadvantages,  for  its  scenic  attractions  are 
unsurpassed.  To  the  southeast,  a  bare  two  miles  distant,  rises 
the  isolated  cerro  of  Dani  Guiati ;  to  the  west  tower  the  outer- 
most ranges  of  the  Mountains  of  Oaxaca,  broken  only  in  the 
center  where  a  transverse  depression  leads  back  toward  the 
Valley  of  Oaxaca;  while  directly  north  lie  the  picturesque 
mountains  of  the  Pass  of  Chivela.  Nor  is  the  site  of  the  town 
itself  without  merit;  it  lies  down  by  the  river  amid  rolling 
hills  embowered  for  the  greater  part  in  verdure.  But  San  Ge- 
ronimo has  been  not  only  the  favored  child  but  also  the  victim 
of  circumstance.  While  the  coming  of  the  railroads  has  in- 
sured her  future  it  has  also  split  the  town  in  two;  and  the 
Old  Town,  typically  Mexican,  lies  in  the  river  bottom  a  mile 
west  of  the  station  about  which  the  New  Town  has  grown. 

I  do  not  suppose  the  New  Town  numbers  a  thousand 
souls,  and  yet  it  is  the  business  end  of  the  place,  all  the  com- 
mercial houses  being  situated  there.  A  couple  of  blocks 
northwest  from  the  station  stands  the  brewery,  the  Cerveceria 
del  Istmo,  a  fine  brick  pile  and  the  most  imposing  edifice  of  the 
place ;  while  at  the  other  extremity  of  the  New  Town  lies  the 
huge  compound  of  the  Compania  Commercial  de  Puebla.  In 
close  proximity  live  quite  a  number  of  Americans,  some  con- 
nected with  one  or  the  other  of  these  establishments  and  some 
engaged  in  other  lines  of  business ;  among  whom  I  take  pleas- 
ure in  mentioning  George  H.  Adamik,  for  many  years  a  di- 


82  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

rector  at  the  brewery ;  Mrs.  Laura  K.  Delplain,  an  aunt  of  Mrs. 
O'Shaughnessy  of  international  literary  fame;  and  Meyer 
Newmark,  local  representative  of  San  Francisco  lumber  in- 
terests. Near  the  center  of  the  town  dwelt  old  Arturo  Green, 
an  American  who  had  come  there  in  early  days,  married  a 
Tehuana,  and  become  expatriate;  despite  which  there  was 
none  more  persistent  than  old  Arturo  in  insisting  that  he  was 
as  good  an  American  as  ever. 

A  very  crooked  road  led  away  over  red  clay  ridges  from 
the  heart  of  the  New  Town  to  the  heart  of  the  Old,  and  all  the 
way  houses  were  scattered  over  the  arid  plain  in  the  most 
promiscuous  manner,  without  any  regard  to  each  other  or  to 
the  points  of  the  compass,  for  all  the  world  as  though  they  had 
taken  their  cue  not  from  the  Polar  Star  but  from  the  afore- 
said crooked  road.  In  Mexico  generally  building  restrictions 
seem  to  be  non-existent  and  everyone  builds  exactly  as  he 
pleases,  frequently  with  unfortunate  results  to  the  symmetry 
of  cities.  But  among  the  Mexican  towns  with  which  I  am 
acquainted  San  Geronimo  is  easily  the  worst  offender  in  this 
respect. 

One  day  of  the  days  when  it  so  happened  that  I  was  in 
San  Geronimo,  I  accompanied  Bolivar  S.  Kelly,  superinten- 
dent of  the  brewery,  and  a  number  of  boon  companions  on  a 
trip  to  the  Old  Town.  We  first  visited  the  market,  where 
Kelly  had  assured  me  we  should  find  some  decidedly  hand- 
some Tehuanas.  Our  visit  was  a  failure;  the  market  was 
indeed  full  of  life  but  it  was  in  every  way  inferior  to  that  of 
Tehuantepec.  The  place  was  dirty,  the  articles  displayed  for 
sale  were  uninteresting  and,  worst  of  all,  the  Tehuanas  in 
attendance  were  far  from  attractive. 

I  then  proposed  a  visit  to  the  church,  the  fine  external  ap- 
pearance of  which  had  in  the  meantime  attracted  my  eye.  This 


FARTHER  AFIELD  83 

was  far  from  pleasing  Kelly  who,  besides  not  being  of  a  re- 
ligious turn,  was  peeved  over  my  judgment  respecting  the  Te- 
huanas ;  but  he  accepted  the  situation  with  philosophic  resig- 
nation and  we  set  out  for  the  church.  Luckily  for  him  we 
found  the  place  locked  and  he  insisted  upon  at  once  pro- 
ceeding to  a  bull  fight  then  supposed  to  be  in  progress. 

We  visited  the  large  stockaded  enclosure  prepared  for 
the  bull  fight  and  took  seats  in  the  pavilion  which  had  been 
erected  alongside  for  the  accommodation  ocf  the  elite.  The 
bull  was  brought  forth.  He  was  a  very  gentlemanly,  amiable- 
looking  bull,  not  at  all  in  keeping  with  my  idea  of  the  Mexi- 
can fighting  bull,  and  he  positively  refused  to  fight.  We  looked 
on  for  a  full  hour  while  the  local  heroes  of  the  ring  shouted, 
and  prodded  him,  and  waved  red  cloths  before  him,  all  to  no 
purpose ;  Mr.  Bull — very  decidedly  and  very  wisely  for  him — 
refused  to  get  in  the  least  bit  excited. 

That  is  the  way  it  usually  ends,  in  Mexico  at  least;  the 
bull  can  not  be  got  to  fight.  All  honor  to  the  Mexican  bull  for 
the  good  sense  which  he  generally  displays.  It  is  a  brutal, 
degrading  sport,  which  the  authorities  have  done  much  to 
discourage,  but  it  has  a  very  strong  hold  on  the  vulgar  herd. 

When  they  finally  led  the  bull  from  the  arena  we  mounted 
our  steeds  and  rode  away  toward  the  western  hills.  Soon  we 
were  in  the  midst  of  a  rural  scene  of  surpassing  beauty.  What 
a  contrast  to  the  city  with  its  delapidated  buildings  and 
crooked  dusty  streets  crowded  with  dirty  pigs  and  starving 
dogs  and  redolent  of  strange  odors.  We  rode  through  narrow 
country  lanes  bordered  with  hedges  of  madre  cacao,  pifion, 
and  yellow-blooming  cacti;  through  patches  of  forest  where 
grew  the  palmetto  and  the  sapodilla  tree;  and  anon  among 
well-tilled  orchards  of  orange  and  banana. 


84  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Then  our  trail  dipped  down  into  a  swale  and  we  rode  for 
a  time  in  the  grateful  shade  made  by  wild  mango  trees,  which 
love  the  vicinity  of  underground  waters.  The  trees  were  laden 
with  orange  yellow  fruit  for  it  was  June,  the  season  of  man- 
goes, and  the  Indians  were  busy  picking  the  fruit.  As  fast 
as  the  fruit  was  picked  the  women  packed  it  in  homemade 
baskets  and  placing  these  on  their  heads  disappeared  in  the 
direction  of  the  city.  Some  of  them  held  one  hand  to  the 
basket  to  steady  it,  an  unnecessary  precaution  where  the 
basket  was  broad  and  low.  Few  sights  are  prettier  than  a 
line  of  these  Butterfly  Women  moving  rapidly  along  under 
well-balanced  loads,  their  shapely  arms  swinging  rhythmically 
to  and  fro,  as  their  custom  is,  to  preserve  balance. 

We  rode  up  a  slight  rise  to  the  home  of  the  owner  of  the 
mango  grove,  a  simple  structure  surrounded  by  lignum  vitae 
trees  then  in  full  bloom.  The  trees  in  question  were  too  small 
to  be  of  commercial  value,  but  were  very  pretty,  looking  much 
like  hawthorne  trees  filled  with  deep  blue  blossoms.  Kelly 
conversed  for  a  few  moments  with  the  mistress  of  the  house 
— they  spoke  in  the  Zapotecan  tongue,  so  that  I  was  none  the 
wiser — and  then  we  turned  about  and  made  back  for  the  city. 


Midway  between  San  Geronimo  and  Juchitan  lie  two  in- 
teresting Indian  towns,  Iztaltepec  and  El  Espinal.  The  former 
is  famed  for  its  pottery  works.  This  industry  has  existed  for 
generations  and  the  inhabitants  have  acquired  great  cunning 
in  the  art.  Clays  particularly  adapted  to  the  production  of 
white  and  black  pottery  exist  there,  and  many  of  the  articles 
produced  by  these  native  workmen  excel  in  classic  finish  the 
products  of  the  best  European  manufacturers.  As  we  shall 
see  later  on,  Iztaltepec  is  also  the  center  of  the  indigo  industry 
on  the  Isthmus. 


mm    !     <      F  ;  f 

if  I 


FARTHER  AFIELD  85 

Halfway  between  San  Geronimo  and  Iztaltepec  lies  an 
isolated  hill  called  Dani  Guiati,  upon  the  south  face  of  which 
are  rock  paintings  dating  from  before  the  time  of  King  Cosi- 
joeza,  the  Zapotec  monarch  who  conquered  this  region  toward 
the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century. 

In  speaking  of  Iztaltepec  I  am  reminded  of  a  little  incident 
told  me  by  my  friend  M.  Garfia  Salinas.  He  was  one  of  the 
leading  lawyers  on  the  Isthmus  and  dwelt  at  Salina  Cruz  in  a 
house  adjoining  the  American  consulate,  but  the  nature  of  his 
business  necessitated  frequent  visits  to  Tehuantepec,  Juchitan, 
and  the  other  cities  of  the  plain.  Upon  such  occasions  he  al- 
ways wore  a  helmet  and  long  linen  duster.  It  should  also  be 
mentioned  in  passing  that  Don  Garfia  contrary  to  the  Mexican 
custom  wore  no  mustache,  was  slightly  bald,  and  that  his  ex- 
pression was  demure. 

It  so  chanced  upon  a  day  of  the  days  that  Don  Garfia 
after  having  attended  to  certain  legal  matters  at  Juchitan 
set  his  face  toward  home.  Now  the  region  between  Juchitan 
and  Salina  Cruz  was  at  that  time  infested  by  outlaws,  so  that 
he  needs  must  pass  by  the  roundabout  way  through  El  Espinal, 
Iztaltepec,  and  San  Geronimo,  and  in  passing  through  Iztal- 
tepec a  certain  adventure  befell  him.  As  he  was  peacefully 
pursuing  his  way  through  the  city,  suddenly  shots  were 
heard  and  the  next  instant  the  streets  were  filled  with  bandits, 
shooting  right  and  left.  Don  Garfia  bethought  himself  that 
just  at  that  moment  the  open  street  was  no  place  for  one  of 
his  peaceful  profession  and  fled  amain  for  shelter. 

Allah,  praised  be  his  name,  hath  ever  a  care  for  his  own 
and  I  doubt  not  that  Don  Garfia,  though  an  unbeliever,  had 
found  favor  with  the  Most  Compassionate,  for  as  he  sped  up 
the  street  he  discerned  to  his  right  an  open  doorway.  He  en- 
tered without  so  much  as  saying  "By  your  leave,"  and  had  no 
sooner  entered  than  the  door  was  swung  to  and  bolted. 


86  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Our  hero  found  himself  in  the  presence  of  some  fifteen 
or  twenty  of  the  good  people  of  the  town.  They  were  Indians 
of  the  lower  class  and  being  greatly  frightened  had  cast  them- 
selves on  their  knees  and  were  busy  invoking  the  intercession 
of  San  Benito  in  their  behalf.  The  moment  they  beheld  Don 
Garfia,  however,  they  arose  from  their  kneeling  position  and, 
crowding  around  him,  begged  that  he  would  lead  them  in  their 
devotions. 

"For  you,  holy  father,"  they  explained,  "have  surely 
greater  influence  with  San  Benito  than  all  of  the  rest  of  us 
put  together.  Lead  us  in  our  supplications,  we  beg  of  you,  that 
we  may  be  saved  from  the  fury  of  the  bandits." 

"But  I  have  no  influence  with  San  Benito/'  replied  Don 
Garfia,  greatly  embarrassed — f  or  he  was  not  strong  in  prayer 
— "I  am  no  priest  but  merely  a  humble  member  of  the  legal 
profession." 

"You  don't  fool  us  so  easily,"  one  old  lady  replied.  "We 
have  seen  your  reverence  before  and  we  know  you  for  the 
bishop  of  Tehuantepec." 

Then,  as  Salinas  stroked  his  smooth  chin  and  scratched 
his  bald  pate,  a  light  dawned  upon  him;  they  had  taken  our 
worthy  friend  for  no  less  a  personage  than  the  venerable 
bishop  of  Tehuantepec.  He  succeeded  in  persuading  them  of 
their  error,  however,  and  they  resumed  their  interrupted  de- 
votions without  his  assistance.  An  hour  later  the  bandits, 
having  shot  a  man  or  two  and  secured  all  the  loose  coin  in 
sight,  left  the  town.  As  soon  as  they  were  gone  the  door  of  the 
house  was  opened  and  Don  Garfia  took  his  departure  for  San 
Geronimo. 

Juchitan,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rio  de  Perros  about 
five  miles  from  the  point  where  it  empties  into  the  Upper 


FARTHER  AFIELD  87 

Lagoon,  is  the  second  city  of  the  plains.  It  is  but  a  little 
smaller  than  Tehuantepec  and  the  rivalry  between  the  two 
places  is  great,  each  city  contending  that  its  sons  exceed  those 
of  the  other  in  bravery  as  its  daughters  eclipse  the  daughters 
of  the  other  in  beauty.  If  a  mere  stranger  may  be  permitted 
an  opinion,  I  would  venture  the  judgment  that  the  men  of 
Juchitan  are  the  braver.  The  Juchiteco  takes  naturally  to 
arms  and  Juchitan  has  always  been  one  of  the  principal 
recruiting  points  for  the  Mexican  army.  The  warlike  spirit  of 
her  sons  is  evidenced  in  the  vicissitudes  through  which  the 
city  has  passed.  In  the  incessant  wars  which  have  afflicted 
the  country  the  place  has  been  sacked  and  burned  again  and 
again;  but  no  reverse  has  crushed  the  indomitable  spirit  of 
her  sons.  To  the  daughters  of  Tehuantepec,  on  the  other  hand, 
I  would  award  the  palm  for  beauty ;  though  even  this  is  stoutly 
denied  by  the  people  of  Juchitan,  for  the  Juchiteca,  who 
dresses  precisely  like  the  Tehuana,  is  also  famed  for  her 
beauty.  There  is  among  the  upper  classes  of  Juchitan  a  con- 
siderable strain  of  French  blood  dating  from  the  time  of 
Maximilian. 

The  next  three  rivers  as  we  pass  from  west  to  east  are 
the  Verde,  Chicapa,  and  Cazadero,  all  of  which  enter  the  Upper 
Lagoon  near  its  northeastern  corner.  Beyond,  and  further  to 
the  east,  the  Xocuapa  and  the  Ostuta  descend  from  the  moun- 
tains of  Chimalapa,  the  former  entering  the  Lower  Lagoon  at 
its  northeastern  extremity  and  the  latter  discharging  into  the 
Eastern  Lagoon.  There  are  no  large  towns  on  the  railroad 
east  of  Juchitan,  but  the  rainfall  increases  and  the  country 
improves  as  one  proceeds  toward  the  east,  and  a  great  region 
lies  there  awaiting  development,  a  country  especially  suited 
to  the  rearing  of  livestock  and  the  growing  of  Indian  corn. 


88  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

South  of  the  railroad,  between  the  Cazadero  and  Xocu- 
apa  rivers,  there  is  a  distinct  range  of  low  mountains  stretch- 
ing from  Prieto  Hill,  five  miles  west  of  the  Xocuapa,  due  west 
to  Mount  Tiac-Tinayix,  whose  base  is  washed  by  the  Cazadero, 
The  country  between  this  range  and  the  lagoons  is  covered  with 
isolated  hills  scattered  about  without  order.  These  partly 
submerged  reappear  in  a  beautiful  chain  of  volcanic  islands 
which  stretch  across  the  northern  portion  of  the  Upper  Lagoon 
nearly  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  de  Perros.  Of  these  islands  the 
principal  are  Mitiac  Xocuou,  Natartiac,  and  Monapoxtiac.  The 
latter,  the  holy  isle  of  the  ancient  Zapotecs,  lies  midway  of  the 
lagoon  as  you  proceed  from  east  to  west.  It  has  two  peaks  and 
is  on  a  clear  day  plainly  discernible  from  the  hills  which  over- 
look Salina  Cruz. 

There  are  some  parts  of  this  little  Earth  which  stand  so 
detached,  are  so  removed  from  the  general  current  jof  human 
affairs,  that  they  may  be  as  appropriately  described  as  one 
place  as  another.  Such  a  place  is  Clipperton  Island.  A  mere 
dot  in  the  Pacific,  hundreds  of  miles  from  the  nearest  land, 
and  far  from  the  customary  routes  of  sea  traffic,  one  would 
think  it  the  last  place  Romance  would  choose  for  her  habita- 
tion; and  yet  even  Clipperton  is  not  without  its  story  of 
tragedy  and  intrigue. 

The  island  lies  several  hundred  miles  to  the  southwest  of 
Salina  Cruz  and  is  a  Mexican  possession.  Thither,  shortly  be- 
for  the  revolution,  the  Mexican  government  dispatched  a  naval 
lieutenant  with  his  wife  and  a  number  of  attendants,  male  and 
female,  to  take  charge  of  the  island  and  its  sole  institution  of 
importance,  the  Clipperton  lighthouse.  A  negro  also  accom- 
panied the  party  in  the  capacity  of  lighthouse  keeper. 

In  the  troublous  times  which  followed  the  outbreak  of  the 
revolution  the  little  party  on  Clipperton  Island  was  completely 


FARTHER  AFIELD  89 

forgotten.  For  years  the  island  remained  unvisited.  After  a 
time  their  stock  of  provisions  began  to  run  low;  and  the  worst 
of  it  was  they  were  entirely  dependent  upon  Mexico  to  supply 
their  needs,  for  the  island  upon  which  they  were  marooned 
was  a  mere  strip  of  sand,  incapable  of  supporting  even  the 
eight  or  ten  persons  of  the  party. 

The  lieutenant  now  took  counsel  of  despair.  All  hope  of 
relief  quite  gone,  he  decided  to  stake  all  on  an  attempt  to  reach 
the  nearest  Mexican  port.  And  so  one  fine  morning  he  and 
two  male  companions  hoisted  sail  and  set  out  in  a  tiny  open 
boat  for  Acapulco.  From  that  day  forth  nothing  was  ever 
heard  of  them ;  the  sea  had  swallowed  them  up. 

Those  who  remained  behind  kept  up  the  uneven  struggle 
with  nature.  Reduced  to  the  last  extremity,  they  made  clothes 
for  themselves  of  gunny  sacks  and  eked  out  a  miserable  exist- 
ence by  picking  coconuts  and  gathering  shellfish  on  the  beach, 
for  other  means  of  sustenance  there  was  none.  Thus  two  long 
years  dragged  slowly  by  and  then  a  ship  appeared  in  the 
offing. 

Friends  of  the  lieutenant  had  at  last  reached  the  ears  of 
the  Mexican  government  and  the  latter  had  secured  the  good 
offices  of  an  American  naval  vessel  then  cruising  on  the  west 
coast.  The  vessel  in  question  put  out  from  Acapulco  and 
having  found  the  longitude  of  Clipperton  sailed  due  south. 
Atfter  a  time  a  dark  speck  showed  upon  the  horizon  and  soon 
through  their  sea  glasses  they  made  out  a  beach  fringed  with 
coconut  palms,  on  which  women  could  be  seen  gesticulating 
and  running  to  and  fro.  Over  all,  from  a  tall  flag  staff,  floated 
the  banner  of  Mexico.  But  behold,  even  as  they  watched,  the 
colors  were  lowered!  What  could  this  mean?  An  instant 
later  the  flag  again  rose  to  the  top  of  the  staff.  Another 
mystery! 


90  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Running  under  the  lea  of  the  island,  a  boat  was  lowered 
and  a  party  put  out  for  the  shore.  Five  women  came  down  to 
meet  the  landing  party.  They  stated  that  they  were  the  only 
souls  on  the  island,  but  when  the  officer  in  command  ques- 
tioned them  as  to  why  the  flag  had  been  lowered  they  were 
silent.  It  was  evident  they  were  concealing  something.  As 
to  what  this  was  he  was  not  long  in  learning,  for  as  he  and 
his  companions  approached  the  flagstaff  they  were  shocked 
at  discovering  near  its  base  the  dead  body  of  the  lighthouse 
keeper.  The  gory  ax  lying  beside  him  explained  the  manner 
of  his  death ;  he  had  been  cut  down  from  behind. 

Of  course  the  women  could  no  longer  pretend  ignorance 
of  the  negro's  presence  on  the  island,  but  they  continued  to 
stoutly  maintain  that  they  knew  nothing  of  the  cause  of  his 
death.  But  this  much  at  least  was  apparent  to  the  officer ;  he 
had  been  slain  by  one  of  the  women  while  trying  to  lower  the 
flag. 

The  women  and  their  few  belongings  were  taken  aboard 
ship  and  were  subsequently  landed  at  Salina  Cruz,  where  they 
remained  for  some  days  while  arrangements  were  being  made 
for  their  transportation  to  their  homes  on  the  central  plateau. 
While  they  were  so  detained  many  attempts  were  made  to  get 
at  the  truth  of  what  had  transpired  on  the  island.  But  there 
were  as  many  tales  as  there  were  women  rescued  and  the  mys- 
tery was  never  solved.  Only  this  much  was  made  clear,  namely, 
that  the  lighthouse  keeper  was  alive  when  the  rescuing  ship 
was  first  seen  from  the  island,  and  dead  before  the  landing 
party  set  foot  on  the  beach. 

There  is  no  evidence  of  recent  volcanic  action  in  the  moun- 
tains of  the  Isthmus,  nor  are  there  any  extinct  craters  of  once 
active  volcanoes  of  any  considerable  extent.  Ragged  lime- 


FARTHER  AFIELD  91 

stone  peaks  and  crater-like  precipices  of  the  same  material 
are  common,  but  no  cones  of  lava,  scoria,  etc.,  so  characteristic 
of  long-continued  volcanic  action  are  encountered.  Earth- 
quakes occur  but  are  less  violent  and  not  so  frequent  as  in  most 
parts  of  Mexico  and  Central  America.  As  dwellings  of  more 
than  one  story  are  seldom  built  but  little  harm  is  ever  done 
the  houses,  but  the  larger  churches  are  sometimes  injured. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  on  the  Pacific  plains,  in  lati- 
tude 16°  north,  the  climate  is  tropical.  The  mercury  ranges 
between  65°  and  100°  F.  the  year  round.  At  Salina  Cruz  the 
average  temperature  in  the  shade  for  the  year  is  80°  F.  In 
April  or  May  a  maximum  temperature  of  98°  is  reached,  and 
in  the  winter  the  mercury  falls  to  about  66°  F.  Persons  be- 
longing to  the  European  race  residing  there  seldom  expose 
themselves  to  the  midday  sun,  but  perform  their  journeys  and 
out-of-door  work  so  far  as  possible  in  the  mornings  and  even- 
ings, and  at  night.  And  yet  the  climate,  while  hot,  is  far  from 
enervating.  On  the  whole  it  is  a  healthy  climate.  The  natives 
both  male  and  female,  are  decidely  robust,  and  even  the  wives 
and  children  of  European  and  American  residents  enjoy  the 
best  of  health. 

The  salubrity  of  the  plains  is  largely  due  to  the  dryness 
of  the  climate.  The  rains  begin  about  the  first  of  June  and 
end  in  September  or  October,  and  during  the  remaining  eight 
or  nine  months  of  the  year  there  is  no  rain  whatever.  Often 
for  four  or  five  months  on  a  stretch  not  so  much  as  a  drop 
of  rain  falls.  Often  times,  standing  at  San  Geronimo  when  a 
norther  is  blowing,  dense  rain  clouds  may  be  seen  deluging 
the  elevated  table-lands  of  Tarifa  and  Chivela,  but  the  instant 
these  clouds  are  driven  over  the  dividing  range  into  the  dry  at- 
mosphere of  the  Pacific  plains  they  are  absorbed  and  melt 


92  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

away.  A  rainbow  is  often  seen  in  the  clouds,  the  whole  afford- 
ing a  beautiful  and  interesting  phenomenon  illustrating  the 
marked  difference  in  the  humidity  of  the  atmosphere  in  the 
two  adjacent  regions. 

May  is  the  warmest  month,  and  December  is  the  coolest. 
With  the  beginning  of  June  come  the  first  rains,  a  double  bless- 
ing, for  the  northers  cease  with  the  coming  of  the  rains  and 
the  temperature  falls.  Indeed  the  summers  on  the  Pacific 
slope  are  delightful.  There  is  no  excess  of  moisture,  a  rain 
once  a  week  being  the  rule;  all  the  trees  burst  out  in  full 
foliage ;  and  the  winds  veer  about  to  the  south  and  blow  fresh 
from  the  sea. 

I  have  spoken  elsewhere  of  the  "norther,"  that  furious 
wind  of  the  Isthmus.  The  north  wind  so  prevalent  in  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  in  the  autumn  and  winter,  spreading  from  the  south- 
west corner  of  the  Gulf  encounters  the  wide  entrance  to  the 
Coatzacoalcos  valley  before  alluded  to  and,  rushing  up  the  ever 
narrowing  valley,  increases  continually  in  velocity  as  it  ap- 
proaches the  narrowest  portion  of  this  funnel-shaped  passage, 
until,  reaching  the  plateaux  of  Chivela  and  Tarifa  it  blows  a 
furious  gale.  Thus  a  gentle  breeze  at  Minatitlan  becomes  a 
roaring  norther  ere  it  reaches  Chivela. 

From  October  until  May  the  northers  blow  very  violently 
over  the  dividing  ridge  and  Pacific  plains,  so  violently  in  fact 
that  on  the  plains  the  gardens  and  growing  crops  require 
thatched  fences  or  hedges  to  protect  them  from  the  violence  of 
the  winds.  During  the  dry  season  they  blow  for  at  least  a 
third  of  the  time,  being  most  frequent  in  the  months  of  Jan- 
uary and  February. 

On  the  long  narrow  sandspit  intervening  between  the 
ocean  and  the  Tilema  Lagoon  the  road  crosses  from  time  to 
time  gullies  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  deep  and  twenty-five  to 


Watering  Station  on  the  Great 


The  Jaltepec  River  is  a  Be; 


tutiful   Strean 


Phe  Water  Carriers  of  Tehuantepec 


FARTHER  AFIELD  93 

fifty  feet  in  width.  These  were  formed,  not  by  the  action  of 
water,  but  by  the  violence  of  the  norther,  which  plows  up  the 
loose  sand  and  carries  it  along  like  drifting  snow,  thus  form- 
ing deep  ravines  crossing  the  country  in  a  north  and  south 
direction.  Roads  and  paths,  if  lying  parallel  with  the  winds, 
are  rapidly  converted  into  gullies. 

Salina  Cruz  is  celebrated  throughout  Mexico  as  the  Port 
of  Eternal  Winds — which  is  a  fallacy,  for  the  northers  do  not 
blow  in  summer.  But  in  winter  they  certainly  reign  supreme. 
Through  the  depression  in  the  hills  to  the  north  comes  the 
winds,  rushing  with  concentrated  fury  down  the  main  street 
of  the  city.  In  a  moment  the  air  is  full  of  blinding  sand.  The 
windows  are  battened  down,  and  no  one  ventures  on  the  streets 
without  automobile  goggles.  Down  the  main  street  the  norther 
rages,  licking  the  sand  clean  to  the  very  rock  and  piling  it  in 
eddies  at  the  street  corners.  The  front  yards  of  the  adjacent 
residences  are  filled  with  drifts  and  south  of  Luna's  drug  store, 
in  the  middle  of  the  street,  lies  an  immense  sand  dune.  It 
were  useless  to  remove  it  for  the  next  norther  would  build  an- 
other. Blowing  wildly  out  to  sea,  the  norther  repels  ships 
from  the  coast,  often  preventing  for  days  at  a  time  their  en- 
trance to  the  harbor. 

Disagreeable  as  the  northers  are  they  are  a  distinct  ad- 
vantage to  the  people  of  the  Pacific  plains.  The  summer  cli- 
mate is,  as  we  have  seen,  tempered  by  rains  and  breezes  which 
at  that  season  blow  from  the  sea.  During  the  six  rainless 
months,  on  the  other  hand,  the  weather  would  be  unbearably 
hot  were  it  not  for  the  northers.  As  it  is,  when  the  winds 
subside  the  blazing  sun  in  a  cloudless  sky  scorches  the  country- 
side, but  not  for  more  than  two  or  three  days  at  a  time.  Then 
the  norther  returns,  the  temperature  falls,  and  the  people 
again  return  to  their  labors  in  the  fields.  To  the  northers  more 


94  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

than  to  any  other  one  cause  I  ascribe  the  remarkable  vigor  of 
the  Isthmean  people. 

During  the  so-called  rainy  season — I  say  "so-called"  for 
it  is  not  very  rainy,  even  in  summer— it  sometimes  blows 
strongly  from  the  south-southwest,  and  occasionally  heavily 
from  the  south-southeast. 

On  the  mountains  and  plateaux  of  the  divide  the  rains 
persist  longer,  and  the  dry  season  does  not  begin  before  De- 
cember or  January.  The  temperature  is  considerably  cooler 
than  on  the  Pacific  plains,  the  difference  being  even  greater 
than  the  ordinary  change  due  to  elevation,  for  this  would  be 
less  than  3°  Farenheit,  while  the  actual  difference  in  the  winter 
months  ranges  from  5°  to  10°.  The  contiguous  mountain 
masses  on  either  side  to  the  east  and  west,  and  the  increased 
velocity  of  the  northers  as  they  pass  through  the  narrow  break 
in  the  Cordillera,  undoubtedly  account  for  the  temperate  cli- 
mate of  this  part  of  the  Isthmus.  During  a  norther  the  tem- 
perature sometimes  falls  as  low  as  60°,  and  the  piercing  wind 
makes  it  seem  even  colder.  Thick  woolen  clothing  and  a  pair 
of  heavy  woolen  blankets  are  needed  in  this  region  during  the 
winter  months. 

Frost  is  never  seen  on  the  Isthmus  and  none  of  the  moun- 
tain peaks  have  snow  on  them,  even  in  the  winter. 


CHAPTER  VI. 
THE  PLANT  WORLD. 

THE  account  of  no  region  is  complete  without  a  de- 
scription of  its  flora.    Especially  is  this  true  of  the 
tropics  and  nowhere  more  so  than  in  the  case  of  the 
Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec.     Nature,  everywhere  exuberant  in 
the  tropics,  seems  here  to  surpass  herself.    What  varied,  what 
gorgeous  forms  of  plant  life!     I  wonder  not  that  the  first 
question  asked  by  a  Mexican  of  a  foreigner  is  whether  he 
does  not  think  Mexico  is  very  beautiful. 

All  the  year  round  in  the  regions  of  abundant  rainfall, 
and  in  the  drier  sections  so  long  as  the  rains  persist,  the  coun- 
try is  one  great  landscape  garden.  In  the  nearer  distance  the 
eye  rests  on  verdant  woodlands,  the  trees  of  countless  variety, 
massed  here  and  scattered  there  over  velvety  natural  lawns. 
Flowering  trees  with  their  burden  of  blossoms,  some  white, 
some  yellow,  some  mauve,  and  others  scarlet,  add  color  to  the 
rich  scene;  orchids  hang  from  the  branches;  and  wild  fruits 
of  many  sorts  ripen  in  season.  Picture  all  this  with  the  ever- 
present  mountains  for  a  background,  and  you  have  a  scene  a 
thousand  times  repeated  on  the  Isthmus. 

Such  is  the  scene  which  on  the  Gulf  plains  greets  the 
eye  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  On  the  Pacific  plains,  as  stated 
in  the  last  chapter,  no  rain  falls  between  October  and  May. 
Throughout  the  winter  the  trees  are  withered  and  sear.  In 
April  and  May  a  few  species,  responding  to  the  increasing 
warmth,  put  forth  foliage,  but  not  until  June  heralds  the  first 
rains  are  the  woods  again  in  full  leaf. 

95 


96  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

It  is  different  where  irrigation  is  possible ;  in  the  irrigated 
tracts  of  the  Pacific  plains,  as  on  the  Gulf  side,  the  trees  are  in 
full  leaf  the  year  round.  Supplied  with  the  life-giving  liquid, 
the  results  are  startling.  In  the  gardens  of  Salina  Cruz  I  have 
seen  coconut  trees  barely  six  years  of  age  with  trunks  a  foot 
in  diameter  and  already  beginning  to  fruit. 

With  the  limited  space  at  our  disposal  a  detailed  descrip- 
tion of  the  flora  of  this  section  is  impossible,  and  in  the  pages 
which  follow  I  shall  attempt  no  more  than  a  cursory  view  of 
the  more  common  timber  trees,  the  dyes  and  dyewoods,  the 
lawn  and  flowering  trees,  and  the  leading  fruits  of  that 
favored  land. 

Owing  to  the  semi-arid  climate  and  the  small  amount  of 
water  available  for  irrigation  under  present  conditions,  but  a 
small  acreage  has  been  cleared  on  the  Pacific  plains,  and,  due 
to  the  same  cause,  the  tree  growth  is  in  general  of  a  stunted 
nature.  For  the  most  part  the  plains  are  covered  with  a  tree 
growth  not  exceeding  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  the  individual 
trees  are  seldom  a  foot  in  diameter.  Along  the  shores  of  the 
lagoons  and  near  the  water  courses  the  growth  is  more  luxuri- 
ant. Here  and  in  the  numerous  valleys  running  back  into  the 
mountains  is  an  abundant  supply  of  dimension  timber  to  meet 
the  needs  of  the  Isthmus  for  a  century  to  come. 

On  the  arid  plains  lignum  vitae,  mesquite,  rosewood,  and 
calabash  are  the  most  common  and  most  valuable  woods  for 
construction.  They  are  all  small  and  extremely  hard,  even 
those  varieties  which  when  grown  in  other  localities  having 
a  moderate  rainfall  are  accounted  soft  woods ;  this  is  one  effect 
of  the  arid  climate.  Black  mesquite  is  employed  in  the  manu- 
facture of  gun  stocks  and  was  in  great  demand  during  the 
European  war. 

The  Palo-mulato,  a  conspicuous  forest  tree  with  a  red, 


THE  PLANT  WORLD  97 

• 

smooth  bark  and  generally  destitute  of  leaves,  is  held  in  great 
esteem  by  the  Indians  for  its  medicinal  properties,  a  decoction 
made  from  the  bark  being  used  in  the  treatment  of  malarial 
fever.  Being  extremely  light,  it  is  also  used  in  the  construc- 
tion of  rafts  and  floats.  Another  tree,  the  copalchi,  abounds 
on  the  plains,  its  scarred  trunk,  stripped  of  its  bark,  constant- 
ly attracting  the  traveler's  attention.  It  is  a  medium-sized 
tree  with  long  spreading  branches  and  scanty  foliage,  and  the 
bark  is  of  a  light  gray  color,  bitter  to  the  taste,  and  decidedly 
aromatic.  A  decoction  of  this  bark  is  also  used  in  the  treatment 
of  intermittant  fever. 

The  Chimalapa  mountain  region,  which  walls  in  the  plains 
on  the  northeast,  abounds  in  white  pine,  pitch  pine,  Spanish 
oak,  cypress,  mammee  zapote,  and  chico  zapote.  These  valu- 
able timbers  might  be  easily  floated  down  the  Coatzacoalcos 
and  its  tributaries  to  convenient  railroad  points,  whence  they 
could  be  transported  wherever  needed  on  the  Isthmus.  The 
numerous  rapids  in  the  upper  courses  of  the  rivers  afford 
abundant  water  power  for  saw-mills. 

Many  of  the  pines  are  of  great  size  and  very  tall  and 
straight.  Pines  first  appear  at  a  height  of  one  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  on  the  higher  ridges  and  plateaux  forming  ex- 
tensive forests  of  gigantic  trees,  entirely  free  from  under- 
brush. The  ground  beneath  is  carpeted  with  a  growth  of 
verdant  grasses  which,  combined  with  the  bracing  atmosphere 
and  the  odor  of  the  forest,  renders  these  pine  forests  most  en- 
joyable after  months  spent  amid  the  swamps  and  jungles  of 
the  lowlands. 

The  "oak"  found  here  is  inferior  to  the  oak  of  the  United 
States  but  is  nevertheless  of  considerable  value  as  a  construc- 
tion material.  Both  the  zapote  mamay  and  the  chico  zapote 
furnish  timber  of  great  durability.  Neither  are,  when  prop- 


98  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

erly  cured,  attacked  by  the  white  ant  or  other  insects  or 
affected  by  the  weather.  Because  of  this  they  are  preferred 
for  railroad  crossties.  It  is  said  that  well  cured  zapote  ties 
never  decay  unless  split  by  the  spikes  when  they  are  laid.  The 
chico  zapote,  especially,  is  a  wonderful  tree.  It  grows  to  a 
goodly  size,  specimens  three  feet  in  diameter  being  common; 
it  makes  a  grand  shade  tree  when  grown  in  the  open ;  it  bears 
that  delicious  fruit  called  sapodilla  in  English  and  chico  in 
Spanish,  a  globular  fruit  about  two  inches  in  diameter, 
with  the  color  and  taste  of  maple  sugar ;  and  its  sap,  chicle, 
constitutes  the  base  of  all  chewing  gum. 

Another  famous  tree  of  this  region  is  the  lignum  vitae 
(guayacan).  The  tree  is  quite  common  but  logs  of  merchant- 
able size  are  difficult  to  obtain,  for  the  forests  within  reach  of 
the  railroads  have  been  culled  for  this  commodity  for  many 
years.  At  every  railway  station  guayacan  logs  may  be  seen 
awaiting  shipment,  but  few  of  them  measure  more  than  ten 
feet  in  length  by  a  foot  in  diameter.  Grown  in  the  open  the 
lignum  vitae  makes  a  beautiful  shade  tree,  especially  in  spring 
when  it  is  loaded  with  beautiful  dark  blue  flowers. 


Dyewoods  are  among  the  leading  exports,  certain  sections 
being  rich  in  Brazilwood  which  yields  a  red  dye  and  Logwood, 
which  dies  black.  Besides  these  dyes  many  others,  obtained 
from  various  plants,  are  used  by  the  Indian  women  in  painting 
the  great  calabashes  used  by  them  as  receptacles  for  produce 
carried  on  the  head,  and  in  coloring  their  gay  apparel.  The 
pit  of  the  avocado  (guacate)  is  used  for  marking  clothing, 
from  the  achiote  (Bixa  orellana)  a  scarlet  dye  is  obtained, 
green  ebony  (Chloroxylun)  yields  a  green  pigment,  the  palo 
amarillo  (Morus  tinctoria)  yields  yellow  fustic,  and  from  cas- 
calote  and  uale  (Genipa  Americana)  black  dyes  are  obtained. 


THE  PLANT  WORLD  99 

This  is  the  home  of  those  two  celebrated  dyes  of  the 
eighteenth  century,  indigo  and  cochineal,  the  latter  being  ob- 
tained from  an  insect  which  feeds  upon  the  Tuna  de  Espana, 
a  species  of  cactus.  Indeed,  as  late  as  1850  indigo  was  the 
leading  export  of  this  district;  but  with  the  advent  of  mineral 
dyes  the  demand  for  these  products  ceased,  and  they  are  now 
produced  only  on  a  small  scale  to  furnish  dyes  for  native 
fabrics. 

The  Zapotec  women  are  very  fond  of  the  Tyrian  purple 
skirt,  the  dye  for  which  is  secured  from  a  shell-fish  (Aplysia 
depilans)  which  inhabits  the  salt  waters  of  this  coast.  The 
process  of  obtaining  the  dye  is  a  tedious  one,  since  each  mollusc 
only  yields  a  drop  or  two  of  the  dye,  which  is  emitted  on  gentle 
pressure  of  the  shell-fish.  The  dyed  fabric  is  very  expensive, 
three  or  four  yards  of  cloth  (enough  for  a  wrapper)  com- 
manding a  handsome  figure.  It  has  a  disagreeable  fishy  odor, 
which  is,  however,  greatly  esteemed  by  the  Zapotec  women. 
Thus  fashion  perverts  even  the  unsophisticated  Indian's  sense 
of  smell. 

The  Indians  show  great  skill  in  the  ornamentation  of  the 
jecapezle  in  which  the  Tehuana  carries  her  burden  to  and  from 
market.  These  jecapezles  are  made  from  great  gourds  grown 
in  the  gardens  of  the  Indians,  the  size  of  which  may  be  gath- 
ered from  the  fact  that  the  largest  jecapezles  exceed  two  feet 
in  diameter.  The  ornamentation  of  these  jecapezles  in  beau- 
tiful flower  designs  is  an  industry  peculiar  to  Santa  Maria  de 
Guiniagate,  a  town  lying  among  inaccessible  hills  some  twenty- 
five  miles  west  of  San  Geronimo.  They  are  also  largely  made 
at  Tuxtla  Gutierrez,  the  capital  of  Chiapas. 

The  lawn  of  more  northern  climes,  with  its  shade  and 
ornamental  trees  scattered  singly  here  and  there  or  gathered 


100  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

in  tasteful  clumps,  forms  no  part  of  the  domestic  economy 
of  this  people.  Their  conception  of  home  comfort  is  the  little 
cloistered  patio  with  its  rows  of  potted  plants.  And  yet  what 
wonderful  lawns  this  region  could  produce.  The  repertory  of 
beautiful  shade  and  ornamental  trees  is  inexhaustible. 

Among  the  former  I  may  mention  the  Lambimbo,  a  tree 
with  a  compact  head,  in  outline  much  resembling  the  hack- 
berry.  Then  there  is  the  lignum  vitae,  a  small  tree  with  low- 
spreading  top  much  resembling  the  haw  of  more  northern 
lawns.  The  Amate  or  wild  fig  is  also  common.  It  not  only 
makes  a  magnificent  shade  tree  but  it  yields  a  small  dry  fig 
which  the  natives  cook  with  sugar,  obtaining  quite  a  palatable 
sauce.  The  Almendra  or  false  almond  is  a  beautiful  little 
shade  tree,  appreciated  by  natives  and  foreigners  alike. 
Its  limbs  grow  in  whorles,  with  a  space  of  five  or  six  feet  be- 
tween each  two  successive  whorles.  Besides  its  glossy  green 
foliage  it  bears  an  almond  much  affected  by  children,  both 
the  exterior  and  the  pit  being  eaten  by  the  greedy  urchins. 

We  must  not  forget  that  great  prickly  fellow,  the  ham- 
matti  or  wild  cotton  tree.  When  young  the  trunk  is  covered 
with  gigantic  prickles,  but  the  tree  is  perhaps  the  best  avail- 
able shade  tree  in  these  parts.  Remarkably  upright  in  growth 
and  covered  with  a  prodigality  of  foliage,  it  is  also  a  remark- 
ably quick  grower  and  in  time  reaches  gigantic  proportions. 
These  immense  trees  are  of  no  value  as  timber,  as  the  wood 
is  very  soft  and  decays  in  a  short  time;  but  they  are  of  con- 
siderable value  to  the  natives  for  the  cotton  which  they  bear. 
They  bear  great  pods  like  overgrown  milkweed  pods.  These 
pods  are  packed  with  a  sort  of  cotton  which  is  used  for  filling 
pillows  and  cushions.  The  seed,  kapok,  has  a  commercial 
value,  selling  for  about  twenty  cents  per  pound,  and  might  be 


J? 


Coconut  Palms  Grow  Luxuriantly  on  the  Isthmus 


THE  PLANT  WORLD  101 

made  profitable  were  it  not  for  the  difficulty  in  extracting  the 
seeds. 

The  Ule,  or  India  rubber  tree,  abounds  but  attains  no 
great  size  in  that  region.  Its  horizontal  spreading  top  and 
the  fact  that  it  does  not  shed  its  leaves  in  the  dry  season, 
render  it  an  exceptionally  fine  shade  tree. 

' 
We  invariably  think  of  a  tropical  country  as  a  land  of 

. 

flowers.  In  this  respect  the  Philippines,  which  I  visited  many 
years  ago,  hardly  came  up  to  my  expectations.  There  were 
flowers  there,  of  course,  but  I  should  hardly  call  it  a  land  of 
flowers.  But  the  term  certainly  applies  to  southern  Mexico, 
where  flowers  bloom  eternal ;  and  it  is  not  so  much  the  flowers 
of  the  ground  as  the  flowering  trees  which  attract  the  eye. 

And  then  what  flowering  trees  there  are  for  lawns. 
There  is  never  a  time  in  all  the  year  when  the  landscape  is 
not  gladdened  by  the  bright  flowers  of  some  magnificent  flow- 
ering tree;  in  March  the  pink-flowering  Robles;  in  April  and 
May  the  Arbol  de  Fuego  or  "Caballero",  in  all  its  scarlet  glory ; 
and  the  falling  petals  of  the  latter  have  no  sooner  strewn  the 
path  than  the  Tenpasuchil  on  the  hillsides  bursts  forth  in 
white.  This  is  the  softest  of  trees  and  when  you  break  off  a 
branch  the  milk-white  sap  fairly  spurts  from  the  tree.  After 
this  the  Bignonia  puts  forth  its  yellow  flowers  and  the  Jasmine, 
which  here  is  a  tree  eight  or  ten  inches  in  diameter,  is  filled 
with  dainty  white  blossoms. 

But  grandest  of  all  is  the  Hapanico,  which  begins  to 
bloom  in  December  and  does  not  cease  until  the  latter  part  of 
March,  and  all  that  time  is  loaded  with  great  yellow  tulip- 
shaped  flowers.  0  wonderful  tree !  Thy  presence  alone  suf- 
fices to  make  of  Mexico  a  paradise.  I  had  a  dream.  Lo,  I 
was  in  the  Garden  of  Allah,  and  behold,  on  every  hand  great 


102  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Hapanico  trees  stretching  forth  their  hands  toward  me,  and  in 
every  hand  six  golden  tulips. 

In  the  public  bath  gardens  at  Tehuantepec  there  is  a 
plant  having  leaves  like  the  maple.  It  bears  a  large  white 
trumpet-shaped  flower  in  the  morning,  which  by  noon  turns 
pink  and  the  same  day  perishes.  This  seems  miraculous,  and 
I  was  myself  inclined  to  doubt  the  truth  of  it  until  I  had  occa- 
sion to  visit  Mr.  Barker  at  Santa  Maria,  as  mentioned  in  a 
former  chapter.  Upon  my  visiting  him  he  showed  me  a  snow- 
white  flower  which  he  had  picked  and  placed  in  a  vase ;  and  lo, 
when  we  returned  a  couple  of  hours  later,  it  was  bright  pink. 
The  flower  is  called  Amistad  del  Dia  and  I  was  told  grows 
wild  in  the  mountains  of  Oaxaca.  The  name,  which  is  by  in- 
terpretation "A  Day's  Friendship"  or  "The  Friendship  of  a 
Day,"  is  certainly  appropriate. 

The  Mata-palo,  or  tree-killer,  is  a  singular  plant.  Be- 
ginning life  as  a  vine,  it  finally  becomes  to  all  intents  and  pur- 
pose a  tree.  Starting  as  a  little  vine  not  larger  than  a  fish- 
line,  it  either  ascends  the  tree  it  is  about  to  destroy,  or  springs 
as  a  parasite  from  one  of  its  branches,  later  establishing  con- 
nection with  the  earth  by  sending  down  roots.  Growing  in 
size  it  eventually  envelopes  the  trunk  and  branches  of  the  tree 
with  huge  coils,  which  in  time  grow  together  and  entirely  hide 
the  tree  from  sight,  save  a  few  of  the  upper  limbs.  It  always 
destroys  the  tree  to  which  it  has  attached  itself,  and  presently 
dies.  And  yet  this  pestilential  plant  is  a  thing  of  rare  beauty. 
All  the  year  through  it  is  laden  with  flame  colored,  honey- 
suckle like  blossoms,  and  the  prettiest  sight  that  greets  the 
traveler's  eyes  as  he  passes  through  the  woods  of  the  plain 
is  that  of  trees  lit  up  with  the  flame  of  this  consuming  para- 
site. 


THE  PLANT  WORLD  103 

I  suppose  there  is  not  in  all  the  world  a  region  better 
adapted  to  the  growing  of  tropical  fruits  than  this  same  Isth- 
mus of  Tehuantepec.  Despite  the  general  lack  of  enterprise  it 
abounds  in  fruit,  though  none  is  at  present  exported.  In  the 
markets  one  will  always  find  in  season  an  abundance  of  ba- 
nanas, coconuts,  oranges,  pineapples,  chicos,  and  mangoes, 
which  are  the  principal  fruits  raised ;  and  custard  apples,  sour- 
sops,  tamarind,  pomegranites,  limes,  and  many  other  fruits 
are  always  to  be  had. 

Wherever  there  is  water  the  coconut  grows  luxu- 
riantly on  the  Pacific  plains.  In  six  years  from  planting  the 
tree  is  a  foot  in  diameter  and  begins  to  bear.  Beautiful  coco- 
nut groves  surround  Tehuantepec  on  every  hand  and  the  mar- 
ket is  always  well  supplied  with  the  fruit,  little  Tehuanas 
sitting  in  rows  with  trays  of  nearly  ripe  coconuts.  Slip  one 
of  them  a  nickel  and  she  immediately  whips  out  a  knife,  cuts 
a  hole  in  one  end  of  a  nut,  and  presents  you  with  a  cool  deli- 
cious drink.  The  nuts  are  used  for  no  other  purpose  and  only 
enough  are  raised  for  local  use. 

The  pineapples  of  this  section  are  among  the  largest  and 
best  in  the  world ;  certainly  better  than  those  produced  in  any 
other  part  of  Mexico.  With  a  suitable  market,  here  lies  a  great 
industry  awaiting  development.  The  pineapple  and  coconut 
are  easily  the  best  fruits  of  this  section. 

There  are  two  crops  of  oranges  yearly.  The  first  crop,  of 
small  yellow  oranges,  ripens  from  October  to  January;  the 
second,  of  large  green  oranges,  comes  in  summer.  The  former 
are  very  sweet  but  are  not  equal  to  the  orange  of  Florida  or 
California.  In  fact,  the  Pacific  plains  are  rather  too  tropical 
for  the  orange,  which  does  better  on  the  adjoining  highlands. 
The  best  fruit  grows  at  Santa  Maria  de  Chimalapa,  its  super- 
ior quality  being  doubtless  largely  due  to  the  clear  white  sand 


104  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

in  which  the  trees  are  grown.  A  small  bitter  orange,  probably 
escaped  from  cultivation,  is  found  growing  in  the  woods  in 
many  localities. 

It  is  singular  that  the  lime  is  not  more  generally  culti- 
vated. The  Mexican  lime  is  shaped  like  a  small  lemon,  and 
indeed  its  flavor  more  resembles  that  of  the  lemon  than  the 
ordinary  round  lime.  I  ever  think  with  pleasure  of  the  little 
lime  tree  which  grew  by  the  porch  of  the  American  consulate 
at  Salina  Cruz,  from  the  juice  of  whose  fruit  I  drank  for 
nine  consecutive  months  during  the  year  1918. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  banana,  which  ripens  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year.  The  most  interesting  variety  is  the 
Enano,  a  dwarf  banana.  This  kind  is  much  raised  because 
of  the  destructive  northers  which  fell  the  standard  varieties 
unless  well  protected.  The  fruit  of  this  dwarf  variety  is  f utt- 
sized  and  bunches  will  often  be  seen  touching  the  ground.  The 
plantain  is  ubiquitous.  The  Indians  prefer  it  to  the  banana 
and  it  constitutes  for  them,  after  Indian  corn  and  black  beans, 
the  most  important  article  of  diet.  There  are  few  native 
dishes  as  palatable  as  the  fried  plantain. 

The  native  mango  flourishes  wherever  there  is  under- 
ground water,  bearing  a  small  but  very  sweet  fruit.  Its  sea- 
son is  June  and  it  is  quite  free  from  the  turpentine  flavor  of 
the  much  larger  "Manila"  mango,  which  has  been  introduced 
and  is  raised  to  a  limited  extent.  It  is  not  the  easiest  thing 
in  the  world  to  eat  a  mango  without  soiling  one's  fingers ;  but 
I  noticed  that  at  some  of  the  hotels  the  guests  were  provided 
with  "Mango  forks,"  which  obviated  the  difficulty  appreciably. 
The  mango  fork  has  a  long  central  tine,  very  sharp,  and  two 
short  side  tines.  The  long  tine  is  thrust  into  the  aperature  at 
the  base  of  the  mango  pit,  while  the  side  tines  keep  the  fruit 


THE  PLANT  WORLD  105 

from  revolving;  and  then  the  mango  may  be  peeled  and  eaten 
at  leisure,  without  soiling  the  fingers. 

Another  wonderful  tree  is  the  papaw  (carica  papaya)  or 
melon  tree,  which  bears  a  fruit  about  the  size  of  a  cantaloupe 
and  intermediate  in  flavor  between  cantaloupe  and  squash. 
The  tree  is  very  short  lived,  living  only  about  six  years ;  but 
it  grows  prodigiously,  reaching  a  height  of  eight  feet  the  first 
year,  by  which  time  it  has  begun  to  bear.  It  bears  melons,  a 
great  bunch  of  them,  right  up  under  the  crown;  and  at  all 
year,  by  which  time  it  has  begun  to  bear.  It  bears  melons,  a 
ing,  larger  ones,  big  green  ones,  and  one  or  two  ripe  ones. 
Every  day  for  the  whole  five  years  you  can  pick  your  melon 
from  the  tree! 

The  papaw  is  the  ordinary  dessert  fruit  of  the  tropics, 
taking  the  place  of  our  musk  melon.  What  fortunes  might 
be  made  from  it  if  it  could  be  handled  commercially !  But  un- 
fortunately it  will  not  bear  shipment.  Papaws  are  of  two  sorts, 
yellow  and  red;  the  latter  being  the  larger,  but  inferior  in 
flavor  to  the  yellow  variety.  In  addition  to  its  use  as  a  food 
the  papaw  is  the  source  of  the  drug  papain,  obtained  by  punc- 
turing the  unripe  fruit.  This  drug  greatly  resembles  pepsin. 

I  have  spoken  of  the  chico  zapote,  that  delicious  fruit  so 
closely  resembling  maple  sugar  in  color  and  flavor.  Its  cousin, 
the  Zapote  mammae,  is  a  much  larger  fruit  containing  two 
immense  seeds,  each  of  the  size  of  a  small  hen's  egg.  The 
meat  of  these  seeds  is  very  rich  in  oil,  which  is  used  by  the 
Tehuanas  as  a  hair  dressing.  There  are  two  other  zapotes, 
the  black  and  the  white.  The  latter  is  not  common  in  these 
parts. 

Among  the  most  delicious  of  tropical  fruits  may  be  classed 
the  anona  or  custard  apple.  The  latter  designation  is  apt  to 
deceive  one  not  acquainted  with  this  fruit,  which  does  not  in 


106  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

the  remotest  degree  resemble  the  apple.  It  is  a  heart-shaped 
fruit  with  a  very  thin  skin.  The  skin  of  the  upper  portion  is 
broken  and  then  the  rich  interior,  of  the  consistency  of  thick 
custard,  is  scooped  out  with  a  spoon.  Two  species  of  anona, 
the  yellow  and  the  pink,  are  grown.  It  struck  me  as  singular 
that  the  latter,  which  is  quite  distinct  from  the  yellow  or  com- 
mon variety,  was  so  little  grown.  It  possesses  a  peculiar  but 
decidedly  pleasing  flavor. 

Those  who  have  never  penetrated  south  of  the  Rio  Grande 
may  form  some  idea  of  the  anona  from  the  so-called  "papaw," 
a  little  fruit  growing  wild  in  the  thickets  of  the  central  and 
southern  states  of  the  American  Union,  for  this  fruit  is  a 
northern  relation  of  the  custard  apple  which  has  strayed  far 
from  its  tropical  home.  It  will,  however,  give  one  but  a  faint 
conception  of  the  exquisite  flavor  of  the  anona.  It  is  unfor- 
tunate that  the  term  "papaw"  is  applied  to  this  fruit  (Asimina 
triloba),  which  is  in  no  way  related  to  the  true  papaw  of  the 
tropics. 

Guanabana !  That  word  stirs  the  soul  of  every  true  Mex- 
ican. The  guanabana,  or  soup  sop — to  call  it  by  it's  ill-omened 
English  name — is  a  shy  bearer,  but  one  or  two  of  its  great 
green  fruits  will  always  be  found  in  the  market,  where  they 
are  used  in  the  preparation  of  that  most  delicious  of  all  cool 
drinks,  guanabana.  Mexico  is  a  great  country  for  "ref rescos" 
or  cool  drinks  and  one  has  his  choice  of  lemon,  orange,  lime, 
pineapple,  tamarind,  coconut,  and  guanabana,  but  the  wise 
man  always  chooses  the  latter. 

The  pomegranite  is  quite  generally  grown  but  does  not 
seem  to  prosper.  Nor  does  the  country  appear  to  be  suited  to 
the  date.  I  saw  an  occasional  date  palm,  but  only  one  in  bear- 
ing— in  the  garden  of  my  old  friend,  George  Adamik  of  San 
Geronimo.  The  fruit  was  barely  edible,  but  the  tree  had  just 


THE  PLANT  WORLD  107 

begun  to  bear  and  it  is  possible  that  the  quality  of  the  fruit 
will  improve  as  the  tree  grows  older.  Here  and  there  one 
comes  across  a  tree  of  the  tame  fig,  which  seems  to  do  well,  but 
whose  value  is  unknown  to  the  Indian  cultivator. 

The  Hicaco  (coco  plum)  grows  on  a  small  tree  seldom  ex- 
ceeding eight  feet  in  height.  This  is  of  all  trees  the  most 
difficult  to  transplant,  in  which  respect,  as  well  as  in  gen- 
eral appearance,  it  resembles  the  wild  crabapple.  The  fruit 
is  perfectly  round,  about  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter, 
and  of  three  colors,  white,  black  and  pink.  It  is  used  ex- 
tensively in  the  preparation  of  a  preserve,  which  to  the  for- 
eigner is  decidedly  insipid.  But  there  is  one  compensation. 
The  hicaco  has  a  very  large  pit  which  is  easily  broken  by  the 
teeth,  disclosing  a  kernel  which  is  much  more  palatable  than 
the  preserve. 

Another  fruit  commonly  used  for  preserves  is  the  Te- 
jocote  or  Mexican  thornapple  (haw).  These  grow  both  wild 
and  in  the  state  of  cultivation  in  the  high  valleys  among  the 
Oaxaca  mountains,  whence  they  are  brought  on  pack  mules  to 
the  cities  of  the  plain.  They  are  immense  thornapples  aver- 
aging over  an  inch  in  length.  In  the  hands  of  a  progressive 
race  the  tejocote  might  easily  be  developed  into  a  fine  fruit, 
its  size  and  flavor  improved;  but  no  improvement  is  possible 
with  the  Indian.  Everything  is  raised  from  the  seed. 

There  is  a  native  black  grape,  of  a  musky  flavor  and  about 
the  size  of  the  Concord.  It  grows  wild  and  is  especially  abund- 
ant in  the  mountains  of  the  dividing  range.  A  very  good  wine 
resembling  claret  is  obtained  from  this  grape. 

Perhaps  in  this  connection  the  avocado  or  alligator  pear 
(Sp.,  aguacate)  should  be  mentioned,  though  to  my  way  of 
thinking  this  so-called  fruit  is  more  properly  classed  as  a 


108  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

salad  vegetable.  But  be  that  as  it  may,  southern  Mexico  seems 
especially  adapted  to  its  culture  and  the  number  of  varieties 
which  one  finds  there  is  great. 

I  first  became  interested  in  this  fruit  through  a  Mr. 
Popenoe  who  dropped  into  Salina  Cruz  a  few  months  after 
my  arrival.  Popenoe  was  traveling  as  special  representative 
of  the  university  of  California,  employed  by  that  institution 
to  collect  new  varieties  of  avocado.  He  informed  me  that  there 
were  countless  varieties  of  this  fruit,  and  during  the  time  he 
was  in  southern  Mexico  I  am  sure  made  considerable  additions 
to  this  collection.  He  spent  several  months  exploring  that  re- 
gion and  the  neighboring  parts  of  Guatemala  for  new  vari- 
eties, going  out  from  Salina  Cruz  and  returning  to  that  point 
every  few  weeks. 

Popenoe  was  a  decidedly  bright  and  agreeable  young  man 
and  I  always  looked  forward  with  pleasurable  anticipation  to 
his  periodical  returns  to  the  Hotel  Salina  Cruz.  He  was  also, 
as  one  needed  to  be  in  his  calling,  a  fearless  man.  One  day 
he  blew  in  after  a  trip  up  the  west  coast,  Pochutla  way. 

"Well,  my  son,"  I  said  as  we  shook  hands,  "from  whence 
come  you  this  time  and  how  has  Allah  prospered  your  under- 
takings?" 

"I'm  just  back  from  Pochutla  and  the  region  beyond, 
where  I  obtained  several  new  varieties  of  avocados." 

"The  region  beyond!  Indeed?  why,  I  understood  the 
rebels  were  in  control  of  the  interior  back  from  Pochutla." 

"So  they  are,"  he  replied.  "I  came  to  their  outposts  not 
a  mile  from  Pochutla." 

"Ah!  And  of  course  they  turned  you  back?" 

"Not  by  a  jug  full.  A  Gringo  can  go  anywhere  he  pleases 
in  this  country  so  long  as  he  minds  his  own  business  and 
doesn't  interest  himself  in  matters  political.  When  the  rebel 


Headquarters  of  a   Prosperous   Isthmus   Plantation 


Cultivating  the  Young  Sugar  Cane   Plants 


THE  PLANT  WORLD  109 

picket  halted  me  I  explained  my  business — told  him  I  was  a 
botanist  from  the  United  States  out  collecting  new  varieties  of 
avocados.  'Are  you  a  Carrancista  or  are  you  for  the  Felicis- 
tas?'  said  he.  'Neither/  said  I,  'for  neither;  I  don't  care  a 
peg  about  your  blooming  troubles/  'Pass  on  with  God's  bless- 
ing/ he  replied  with  a  laugh,  and  I  passed  on.  I  was  several 
days  behind  the  lines  and  met  with  no  interference  whatever." 

Popenoe  remained  with  us  until  the  late  fall  and  then  took 
ship  for  Gautemala. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  mention  garden  vegetables,  which 
grow  to  perfection  wherever  irrigated  and  given  the  proper 
attention.  They  can  of  course  be  grown  the  year  round.  All 
the  sorts  grown  in  temperate  climates  thrive  there  save  those 
which,  like  peas,  white  potatoes,  and  the  members  of  the  cab- 
bage family,  are  suited  only  to  severe  climes.  In  view  of  this 
limitation  it  is  to  be  feared  that  pea  soup  and  sauer  kraut 
will  never  be  popular  dishes  on  the  Isthmus.  I  noticed  but 
two  species  of  garden  vegetables  differing  from  those  culti- 
vated in  northern  Europe  and  America,  the  yam,  which  there 
takes  the  place  of  the  potato,  and  a  string  bean  the  pods  of 
which  grew  to  the  enormous  length  of  a  yard.  It  must  have 
averaged  fifty  beans  to  the  pod. 


CHAPTER  VII. 
ANIMAL  LIFE. 

WILD  animals  abound  throughout   eastern   Oaxaca. 
The  Zapotec  Indian  is  not  much  given  to  hunting 
and  as  a  consequence  there  has  always  been  an 
abundance  of  game;  and  during  the  eight  years  of  civil  war 
which  afflicted  the  country  game  multiplied  greatly,  for  the 
sportsman  no  longer  came,  ammunition  was  scarce,  and  few 
were  licensed  to  carry  fire-arms.    With  peace  restored  to  the 
land  it  will  be  a  sportsman's  paradise. 

The  woods  teem  with  deer  of  several  species  and  every 
year  thousands  of  deerskins  are  exported  to  the  United 
States.*  The  deer  come  in  quite  close  to  the  urban  centers 
and  afford  great  sport  where  the  country  is  not  infested  by 
lurking  bands  of  rebels  and  brigands.  Deer  are  especially 
numerous  in  the  valley  of  the  Ostuta. 

There  is  also  great  abundance  of  cats :  The  lordly  puma 
or  American  lion;  the  jaguar,  here  called  "tigre;"  the  wild 
cat;  and  the  ocelot  or  "tigrio."  On  my  first  arrival  in  the 
country,  at  Mogane  among  the  hills  of  the  pass,  an  Indian 
offered  me  a  beautiful  jaguar  skin  for  a  peso  and  a  half  (75c). 
My  friend  Adamik,  one  of  the  landmarks  of  San  Geronimo, 
kept  a  beautiful  tigrio  in  a  cage.  This  beast  was  widely 
known,  as  everyone  who  visited  San  Geronimo  must  of  neces- 
sity visit  Adamik  and  so  must,  equally  of  necessity,  drink  a 
"chica"  with  him  and  inspect  the  tigrio.  But  the  beast  as  he 
grew  older  developed  a  taste  for  poultry,  in  punishment  for 

*Over  95  per  cent  of  Mexico's  product  of  deerskin  is  exported. 

110 


ANIMAL  LIFE  111 

which  he  was  handed  over  to  Gonzalez  Soto  who  took  him  to 
Mexico  City  and  delivered  him  to  the  Red  Cross,  and  that  was 
the  end  of  Adamik's  tigrio. 

Peccaries  are  also  common.  They  are  very  gregarious, 
wandering  through  the  mountains  in  immense  herds.  They 
have  a  great  antipathy  for  snakes,  which  they  search  out  and 
kill  with  great  zest.  Living  principally  upon  roots  their  flesh 
is  excellent,  and  both  it  and  their  lard  are  much  esteemed  by 
the  natives.  Though  small  the  peccary  is  of  a  very  truculent 
disposition  and  their  habit  of  treeing  lone  travelers  is  well 
known. 

Both  hares  and  opossum  are  extremely  common  on  the 
Isthmus,  and  their  flesh  is  in  general  use  for  food.  One  never 
visits  a  market  without  seeing  a  liberal  assortment  of  hares 
for  sale.  The  opossum  is  the  pest  of  henroosts  everywhere. 

The  quadrupeds,  the  armadillo,  the  tejan  or  coatimondi, 
and  the  tapir  deserve  special  mention.  Armadillos  are  very 
plentiful  and  their  meat  decidedly  toothsome.  When  the  In- 
dian has  killed  his  armadillo  and  removed  the  flesh  he  does 
not  discard  the  animal's  coat-of-mail,  but  devotes  it  to  a  most 
unique  use.  The  shell  is  carefully  cleaned  and  rolled  in  upon 
itself  so  as  to  make  a  receptacle  capable  of  holding  several 
quarts  of  grain,  the  ends  of  a  cord  are  attached  to  both  sides, 
the  Indian  sower  fills  the  shell  with  seed,  passes  the  cord  over 
his  neck,  and  with  the  receptacle  thus  held  conveniently  in 
front  of  him,  sets  forth  to  sow  his  field.  The  armadillo  shell 
is  more  often  used  as  a  wallet  or  knapsack.  It  is  also  employed 
in  making  the  sounding-board  for  the  jarana,  a  four-stringed 
instrument  of  the  guitar  family  in  use  among  the  Indians  of 
southern  Vera  Cruz. 

The  tejan  is  a  cousin  of  the  raccoon,  one  of  the  dwarf 
members  of  the  bear  family.  They  are  gray  above  and  nearly 


112  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

white  beneath,  very  long  bodied,  and  with  snouts  and  tails  of 
prodigious  length.  There  are  two  species,  one  of  which  lives 
in  solitary  pairs  while  the  other  is  gregarious.  They  are  very 
active  and  perpetually  in  motion.  The  tejan  is  also  a  great 
novelty  seeker  and  is,  like  novelty  seekers  generally,  very 
stupid.  A  tejan  will  come  down  from  a  tree  to  look  at  a  coyote, 
who  pretending  to  be  dead,  waits  until  the  tejan  begins  to  play 
with  his  body.  It  then  falls  an  easy  prey  to  the  coyote's  cun- 
ning and  its  own  curiosity.  It  is  easily  tamed  and  makes  a 
great  pet. 

Not  the  least  interesting  animal  of  the  Isthmus  is  that 
strange  creature,  half  hog  and  half  elephant,  the  tapir.  The 
tapir  is  a  timid  and  solitary  animal  and  is  generally  to  be 
found  only  in  the  most  secluded  spots;  but  strange  to  say  is 
easily  domesticated  if  caught  when  young.  Its  skin  is  of  won- 
derful thickness.  No  use  is  made  of  it  at  the  present  time, 
but  it  would  seem  that  it  should  make  excellent  material  for 
shoe  soles.  The  skin  is  covered  with  short,  lustrous,  steel- 
gray  hair.  The  head,  while  flatter,  is  much  like  that  of  an 
elephant  without  tusks;  and,  indeed,  while  they  somewhat 
resemble  the  hog  in  general  outline,  on  the  other  hand  the  tapir 
is  one  of  the  cleanest  of  animals  as  the  hog  is  one  of  the 
dirtiest.  The  tapir  is  found  throughout  this  region  wherever 
the  timber  is  dense,  but  especially  abounds  in  the  upper 
Coatzacoalcos  and  Rio  Verde  valleys.  Among  the  natives  it 
is  called  Anteburro,  that  is,  "once  an  ass." 

Vampire  bats,  of  which  there  are  several  species,  are 
quite  numerous  in  mountainous  or  hilly  localities.  One  sort  is 
as  large  as  a  pullet,  measuring  on  extended  wings  from  two  to 
three  feet,  while  another  variety  is  no  larger  than  a  meadow 
lark.  They  are  most  numerous  in  the  wilds  of  the  Chimalapa 
mountains,  where  they  attack  the  horses  of  travelers  on  the 


ANIMAL  LIFE  113 

trail  almost  every  night,  often  biting  the  same  horse  two  or 
three  times.  They  make  an  opening  in  the  skin  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  not  infrequently  blood  will 
be  seen  oozing  from  the  wound  several  hours  later.  Two  ser- 
vants of  the  Shufeldt  expedition,  which  traversed  these  moun- 
tains in  1871,  were  bitten  by  vampires  about  the  feet.  They 
did  not  feel  the  bat  until  it  was  in  the  act  of  flying  away.  There 
is  an  unconfirmed  belief  that  the  vampire  keeps  his  wings  in 
motion  while  he  bites,  which  prevents  the  bite  being  felt. 

Death  seldom  results  from  the  bite  of  a  vampire  save 
in  the  case  of  infants  bitten  more  than  once  the  same  night. 
Neither  horses  nor  men  seem  greatly  affected  by  loss  of  blood. 
Animals  in  the  open  are  never  attacked  on  a  bright  night,  for 
the  vampires,  disliking  the  light,  always  enter  houses  and 
other  dark  places  for  their  prey.  A  candle  left  burning  in  a 
room  is  a  sure  defense.  The  Indians  of  the  mountains  close 
their  houses  and  out-buildings  carefully  to  exclude  these  blood- 
thirsty creatures.  Fortunately  their  operations  are  generally 
confined  to  the  neighborhood  of  the  wild  places  in  which  they 
dwell. 

Caves  are  numerous  in  the  limestone  hills  and  mountains 
in  and  around  the  Pacific  plains,  and  many  of  these  caves  are 
tenanted  by  bats  which  pour  forth  in  multitudes  at  set  of  sun. 
Mount  Quiengola  is  especially  rich  in  bat  caves.  Vast  quan- 
tities of  bat  guano  have  accumulated  in  these  caves  and  some 
day  the  collection  of  this  guano  will  prove  a  lucrative  busi- 
ness. Some  guano  is  removed  even  at  the  present  time. 

The  commonest  bird  in  the  neighborhood  of  human  habi- 
tations is  the  Zopilote  (buzzard),  which,  in  partnership  with 
the  hogs  and  dogs  of  the  land,  performs  the  duties  of  public 
scavenger.  All  day  long  he  sails  on  tireless  wing  over  city 


114  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

and  village  keeping  a  sharp  lookout  for  carrion.  His  useful- 
ness is  so  generally  recognized  that  in  the  state  of  Vera  Cruz 
it  is  made  a  misdemeanor  to  kill  a  zopilote.  The  law  is  not  so 
strict  in  Oaxaca ;  nevertheless  no  one  thinks  of  molesting  them, 
with  the  result  that  they  are  almost  as  tame  as  domestic 
poultry. 

Another  bird  very  much  in  evidence  is  the  Sanate.  The 
male  bird  has  glossy  black  plumage  and  a  very  long  beak  and 
tail.  He  is  quite  a  noisy  fellow,  and  during  the  spring  and 
summer  one  is  seldom  out  of  hearing  of  his  song.  The  female 
bird  is  colored  a  deep  gray.  The  Sanates  breed  in  early  sum- 
mer, building  their  nests  in  the  most  public  places.  In  the 
summer  of  1918  there  were  no  less  than  seven  sanate  nests 
in  the  little  back  yard  of  the  Hotel  Salina  Cruz,  and  when  the 
little  birds  came  the  fourteen  old  birds  kept  up  an  uproar  from 
morning  to  night  which  was  positively  deafening. 

The  greenwoods  are  full  of  bird  life,  covies  of  noisy  green 
parrots  with  red  wings,  many  colored  macaws,  levies,  parro- 
quets,  and  tiny  gray  owls  not  larger  than  a  dollar.  This  is 
also  the  home  of  the  Chachalaca  or  mountain  fowl,  a  fowl  the 
size  of  a  small  hen  but  in  appearance  much  like  the  heron.  In 
color  they  are  a  greenish  gray.  They  are  easily  domesticated 
and  cross  readily  with  the  domestic  fowl,  the  cross  making 
great  game  birds. 

In  season  the  harbor  at  Salina  Cruz  is  alive  with  great 
pelicans,  who  pursue  their  fishing  operations  totally  oblivious 
of  the  close  proximity  of  man,  and  the  waters  of  the  great 
lagoons  are  tenanted  by  thousands  of  wild  ducks. 

Facing  the  little  park  in  Salina  Cruz  is  the  residence  of 
a  Mr.  Tunnell.  He  has  lived  there  many  years  and  being  some- 
thing of  a  cripple  takes  delight  in  keeping  pets.  He  has  six 
curassows.  The  curassow  runs  wild  in  the  forests  of  southern 


ANIMAL  LIFE  115 

Mexico,  Central  America,  and  the  northern  part  of  South 
America,  but  is  easily  domesticated.  They  are  about  the  size 
of  turkeys  which  they  much  resemble  in  appearance,  but  are 
much  tamer  than  turkeys  and  would  make  valuable  poultry, 
were  it  not  that  they  lay  very  few  eggs.  The  male  birds  are 
black  and  the  hens  are  brown. 

One  of  Mr.  Tunnell's  curassows  was  called  Joe.  Old  Joe 
was  quite  old  and  had  a  crippled  foot.  He  spent  much  of  his 
time  sitting  on  his  master's  knee.  Then  there  was  a  famous 
hen  curassow  named  Sarah.  It  was  Mr.  Tunnell's  custom  to 
sit  in  front  of  his  house  in  the  evening,  and  when  I  called  upon 
him  on  such  occasions  Sarah  would  insist  on  getting  between 
us  to  protect  him.  She  would  make  a  very  disconcerting  noise 
like  the  purring  of  a  cat,  and  peck  at  me. 

One  day  Capt.  George  Bryant,  who  commanded  the  port 
dredge  "Mexico,"  invited  me  to  make  a  trip  with  him;  so  at 
seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  I  went  down  to  the  dredge.  We 
steamed  out  to  the  sand  bank  in  the  outer  harbor.  Two  great 
18-inch  tubes  were  lowered  to  the  bottom  of  the  harbor  and 
the  suction  pumps  were  set  going.  We  went  below  to  break- 
fast. By  the  time  we  had  finished  and  came  on  deck  the 
dredge  was  loaded  full  of  sand  and  mud.  In  less  than  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  she  had  sucked  up  two  thousand  tons  of 
mud. 

The  dredge  got  under  way  and  sailed  out  into  the  open 
sea.  About  a  half  mile  from  the  harbor  entrance  we  stopped, 
the  ship's  machinery  was  set  in  motion,  and  lo,  great  doors 
opened  in  the  bottom  of  the  ship  and  her  cargo  of  mud  sank 
into  the  sea.  The  dredge  had  great  watertight  compartments 
on  each  side  which  kept  it  from  sinking  when  the  water  rushed 
into  the  hold. 

While  all  this  was  in  progress  I  noticed  a  bird  hovering 


116  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

far  above.  He  was  built  on  the  plan  of  an  aeroplane  and 
hardly  moved  his  wings  as  he  sailed  about.  The  captain  in- 
formed me  that  it  was  a  Frigate  Bird. 

All  of  a  sudden  Mr.  Bird  espied  a  piece  of  meat  floating 
on  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  down  he  dashed.  He  seized 
the  meat,  bore  it  aloft,  dropped  it,  darted  down  and  seized  it 
again,  and  once  more  bore  it  aloft.  He  repeated  this  pro- 
cedure several  times.  What  do  you  suppose  his  object  to 
have  been?  You  will  never  guess;  and  yet  it  is  as  plain  as 
day.  He  had  no  hands  to  hold  the  meat  while  he  ate  it,  so  he 
could  only  take  one  bite  at  a  time  and  let  it  fall. 

Iguanas  and  smaller  lizards  of  many  kinds  are  very  plen- 
tiful. The  iguana  is  much  esteemed  for  his  flesh,  the  Indians 
preferring  it  to  beef  or  chicken,  and  one  never  visits  the  mar- 
ket without  seeing  a  goodly  number  of  these  reptiles,  each 
with  mouth  tied  shut  to  prevent  him  from  biting.  They  are 
most  repulsive-looking  creatures,  from  two  to  three  feet  in 
length,  with  immense  tails  by  which  the  Tehuana  carries  them 
from  the  market  to  the  cooking-pot.  The  choicest  are  obtained 
from  the  banks  of  unfrequented  streams  far  up  in  the  moun- 
tains. The  reptile  is  caught  in  traps  or  chased  into  its  hole 
in  the  earth  and  then  dug  out. 

Alligators  infest  the  waters  on  both  sides  of  the  Isthmus, 
being  particularly  numerous  along  the  middle  reaches  of  the 
Coatzacoalcos  River.  They  are  also  found  in  smaller  num- 
bers in  the  great  lagoons  of  the  Pacific  plain.  These  saurian 
monsters  destroy  a  considerable  number  of  young  cattle. 
Shooting  them  affords  great  sport,  and  so  numerous  are  they 
on  the  Coatzacoalcos  that  the  hunter  can  with  ease  dispatch 
a  dozen  in  a  few  hours. 

Sharks  abound  along  the  coast  and  in  the  principal  rivers. 


Pelicans  are  Plentiful  and  Tame  Along  the   Coast 


The  Bats  are  Another  Scavenger,  Attacking  Humans  as  Well  as  Insects  After  Dark 


ANIMAL  LIFE  117 

Facts  hardly  justify  their  reputation  for  voracity,  for  Huave 
Indians  are  often  seen  standing  up  to  their  middles  in  the 
water,  some  distance  from  the  beach  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Tehuantepec  River,  with  dozens  of  great  sharks  swimming 
lazily  along  quite  near  them. 

During  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  owing  to  the  dryness 
of  the  climate,  one  is  but  little  troubled  with  insect  pests  on 
the  Pacific  plains.  The  cockroach  is  practically  unknown  and 
flies  and  mosquitoes  are  so  little  in  evidence  that  mosquito 
nets  are  not  in  use ;  and  though  the  first  rains  of  June  herald 
a  recrudescence  of  insect  life,  insects  never  become  so  trouble- 
some as  in  more  northern  climes. 

The  effect  of  the  early  rains  is  startling.  The  trees,  which 
until  then  were  for  the  most  part  dry  and  sere,  put  forth  their 
foliage  almost  over  night,  the  insects  begin  to  buzz  about  and 
make  a  general  nuisance  of  themselves,  and  the  voice  of  the 
frog  is  heard  from  every  damp  depression. 

I  shall  never  forget  our  first  real  rain.  It  just  poured 
down  for  twenty-four  hours  and  then,  during  the  night,  the 
clouds  cleared  away.  The  next  morning  the  sun  came  up 
bright  and  clear  and  the  streets  were  completely  dry,  there 
being  a  considerable  slope  to  the  sea  and  the  soil  being  quite 
sandy.  You  can  imagine  my  surprise  when  I  stepped  from  the 
hotel  into  the  street.  As  I  moved  along  the  path  hundreds  of 
toads  jumped  to  either  side.  The  ground  was  literally  covered 
with  them.  Where  do  you  suppose  they  came  from? 

Well,  that  was  a  mystery  to  me  until  I  came  to  the  Amer- 
ican consulate.  There  were  rifts  of  sand  in  the  yard  of  the 
consulate,  blown  there  by  the  incessant  northers,  and  I  per- 
ceived that  the  rifts  were  full  of  holes,  and  a  toad  was  jumping 
from  every  hole.  This  plague  of  toads  lasted  for  but  one  day 
and  then  they  disappeared.  I  was  told  this  occurs  every  year. 


118  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

I  suppose  the  old  mother  toads  lay  their  eggs  in  the  sand  and 
the  first  good  rain  breaks  them  open,  and  out  jumps  Mr.  Toad. 

The  sea  yields  great  tribute  and  would  yield  much  more 
were  the  Zapotec  Indians  inclined  to  the  water,  which  they  are 
not.  Nevertheless  the  markets  are  always  well  supplied  with 
fish  of  many  sorts.  Turtle's  eggs  are  as  abundant  as  hen's 
eggs.  An  immense  species  of  crawfish  is  obtained  from  the 
sea,  while  the  fresh-water  fisheries  teem  with  a  smaller  species 
of  the  same  shellfish.  Shrimps,  also,  are  very  abundant,  and 
constitute  an  important  article  of  export. 

Pearls  are  mentioned  among  the  gifts  which  the  ancient 
Zapotec  kings  made  to  the  Spanish  conquistadores ;  and  pearls 
are  still  found  in  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  a  few  miles  west  of 
Salina  Cruz.  In  this  neighborhood  there  exist  extensive  beds 
of  pearl  oysters  from  which  the  natives  have  taken,  from  time 
to  time,  many  valuable  pearls.  During  some  seasons  the  In- 
dians inhabiting  the  coast  collect  a  considerable  number  of 
pearls  by  diving  naked  into  the  sea,  and  this  work  is  said  to  be 
more  remunerative  than  any  other  employment  within  reach 
of  these  people;  but,  notwithstanding  this,  there  are  other 
seasons  when,  for  some  unknown  reason,  they  cannot  be  in- 
duced to  engage  in  this  labor. 


CHAPTER  VII. 
THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES. 

IN  writ  of  eld  it  is  affirmed  of  the  renowned  Caliph  Ha- 
roun  al-Raschid,  Prince  of  Believers  and  Vicegerent  of 
God  on  earth,  that  at  the  height  of  his  glory  he  ruled 
over  no  less  than  three  hundred  races  of  men.    Be  that  as  it 
may,  certain  it  is  that  he  that  holdeth  the  scepter  in  Mexico 
beareth  sway  over  many  more,  and  of  these  the  greater  part 
be  divers  tribes  of  red  men,  or  Indians  as  they  are  called  in 
the  western  world. 

A  description  of  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  would  be 
incomplete  without  some  account  of  its  inhabitants,  and  this 
in  turn  would  be  of  little  value  if  the  Indian  were  omitted; 
for  the  Indian  looms  large  in  this  region.  It  may  be,  as  we 
are  told,  that  one-fifth  of  the  population  of  Mexico  is  white; 
but  that  is  taking  the  republic  as  a  whole.  On  the  central 
plateau  of  Mexico  there  is  much  white  blood.  For  four  hun- 
dred years  the  plateau  regions  have  received  a  constant,  and 
during  certain  periods  a  considerable  immigration  from  Spain. 
There  the  Spaniard  could  live  under  conditions  substantially 
similar  to  those  to  which  he  was  accustomed  in  the  homeland. 

But  the  Spaniard  never  settled  to  any  considerable  extent 
in  the  tierra  caliente  (the  hot  coastal  zone) ,  and  hence  the  pop- 
ulation there  has  remained  predominantly  Indian.  This  is 
true  of  the  Isthmus.  In  the  larger  towns  there  are  some 
whites  and  mestizos,  though  even  there  the  great  majority 
are  aborigines.  But  the  bulk  of  the  inhabitants  live  in  villages 
or  on  isolated  rancherias,  and  here  you  find  nothing  but  full- 

119 


120  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

blood  Indians.  Taking  the  Isthmus  as  a  whole,  it  is  safe  to 
say  that  not  one-tenth  of  the  population  possesses  any  ap- 
preciable strain  of  white  blood. 

Four  Indian  races  dwell  upon  the  Isthmus.  The  Gulf 
plains  and  the  lower  Coatzacoalcos  Valley  are  peopled  by 
Aztecs,  the  mountains  of  the  center  by  the  Choque-Mixes,  and 
the  Pacific  plains  by  the  Zapotecs.  Forming  a  small  enclave 
in  the  Zapotec  area  are  the  Huaves,  a  tribe  of  fishermen  in- 
habiting the  shores  of  the  great  lagoons. 

Of  these  races  the  Zapotecs,  an  offshoot  of  the  noble  race 
which  anciently  ruled  over  and  still  dwells  in  the  great  moun- 
tainous region  to  the  northwest,  easily  stand  first.  Four  cen- 
turies of  subjugation  have  not  sufficed  to  extinguish  the  na- 
tional spirit.  They  inhabit  the  Pacific  plains  and  the  elevated 
table-lands  from  Tarifa  to  Petapa.  The  Zapotecs  are  the  most 
intelligent  as  well  as  the  most  industrious  Indians  on  the 
Isthmus  and  in  personal  appearance  are  superior  to  all  others. 
Their  population  is  on  the  increase  and  is  continually  sending 
forth  emmigrants  to  people  districts  once  the  homes  of  other 
races.  They  inhabit  the  greater  part  of  the  State  of  Oaxaca 
and  number  somewhere  between  seven  hundred  thousand  and 
a  million  souls. 

The  Zapotec  is  a  fine  fellow  physically;  short,  as  a  rule, 
but  full-breasted  and  powerfully  built.  One  seldom  sees  a 
spare-built  man  among  them.  He  has  a  broad  back  and  he 
needs  it,  for  the  burden  he  has  to  bear  is  far  from  light.  It  has 
been  the  custom  of  writers  making  the  tour  of  southern  Mex- 
ico to  belittle  the  male  Zapotec.  Several  things  have  concurred 
to  deny  him  his  due.  The  features  of  the  male  Zapotec  are 
generally  plain,  his  costume  has  little  of  the  picturesque,  and 
the  traveler  being  himself  of  the  male  sex  has  given  him  but 
scant  attention. 


THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES  121 

Owing  to  the  insecure  nature  of  the  country  the  agricul- 
tural population  tends  to  concentrate  in  the  villages  and  towns 
where  some  measure  of  protection  is  afforded.  This  results 
in  a  special  division  of  labor  between  the  sexes.  The  women, 
residing  continually  in  the  town,  are  the  merchants.  Such 
a  thing  as  a  man  selling  goods  at  retail  is  practically  unknown. 
Women  are  the  traders,  while  the  men  largely  spend  their 
lives  on  their  outlying  ranches,  caring  for  their  stock,  burning 
lime,  charcoal,  etc.,  fishing  and  hunting,  or  tilling  their  little 
holdings  of  corn  or  cane.  I  may  add  that  the  number  of  hunt- 
ers is  few,  for  the  Indians  have  little  natural  fondness  for 
hunting  although  the  country  abounds  in  game.  This  is  not  to 
be  wondered  at,  for  they  had  passed  from  the  hunter  state  and 
had  become  an  agricultural  race  long  before  the  dawn  of 
history. 

In  the  daytime  the  absence  of  men  is  very  noticeable  in 
the  towns.  This  is  the  parent  of  two  errors:  first,  that  the 
females  far  outnumber  the  males  and,  second,  that  the  women 
are  the  industrious  part  of  the  community  and  the  men  mere 
drones. 

Writers  have  made  no  mistake  in  picturing  the  Zapotec 
woman  as  the  most  attractive  representative  of  her  race,  a 
statement  to  the  truth  of  which  the  many  illustrations  scatter- 
ed through  this  work  bear  witness.  Varying  in  color  from  gold- 
en to  rich  brown,  with  well-rounded  limbs  and  deep  bosom,  her 
features  possess  none  of  that  harshness  which  we  usually 
associate  with  Indian  blood. 

Venus  is  here  revealed  in  the  flesh.  Here  alone  among 
the  living  daughters  of  Eve  will  you  find  the  straight  project- 
ing breasts  of  classic  Greece.  The  Zapotec  maid  needs  no  cor- 
sets. Her  breasts  stand  erect  not  merely  as  a  budding  maid 
but  well  on  until  the  age  of  thirty  or  thirty-five,  and  it  is  no 


122  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

uncommon  thing  to  come  upon  a  mother  of  three  or  four  chil- 
dren whose  breasts  project  like  those  of  a  young  girl.  This 
plainly  indicates  great  vigor  in  the  race. 

With  her  open  face  and  ready  laugh  the  Tehuana  is  the 
reverse  of  Oriental ;  she  is  most  decidedly  of  the  Occident.  But, 
aside  from  this,  surface  indications  are  to  the  contrary;  and 
beholding  these  gaudily  dressed  creatures  moving  upon  the 
streets,  each  with  a  tray  or  jar  balanced  on  her  head,  I  saw  as 
through  a  mist  the  Persian  marts  of  my  youth.  The  Tehuanas 
persist  in  carrying  everything  on  their  heads,  even  in  the  most 
violent  winds.  Sometimes  they  are  compelled  to  navigate 
pretty  slowly,  but  they  never  under  any  circumstances  permit 
their  burden  to  fall.  It  is  no  uncommon  sight  to  see  a  woman 
pass,  balancing  a  squash  on  her  head.  Their  dexterity  in  this 
matter  is  the  result  of  long  experience.  I  have  often  seen  a 
little  girl  of  ten  or  twelve  years  walking  along  quite  uncon- 
cernedly, balancing  an  empty  beer  bottle  on  her  head.  She 
was  taking  her  first  lesson  in  the  art. 

The  Tehuanas  are  very  strong  and  walk  off  with  a  stride, 
even  in  the  hottest  weather.  After  the  manner  of  Norwegian 
peasant  women  they  are  much  given  to  trotting  when  in  a 
hurry. 

Mexico  presents  a  great  object  lesson  to  the  student  of 
race  absorption.  Here  you  find  every  stage  in  the  process; 
the  wild  Indian,  the  Christianized  Indian  who  still  preserves 
his  mother  tongue  and  the  costume  of  his  ancestors,  and  the 
Spanish-speaking  Indian  who  has  assumed  the  costume  of  the 
white  man. 

,  The  Zapotecs  were  long  since  converted  to  the  Christian 
faith,  whether  for  the  better  or  not  is  an  open  question;  but 
they  still  preserve  their  own  language.  It  is  estimated  that 
the  Zapotecan  tongue  is  spoken  by  at  least  500,000  souls.  True, 


Senor   Bigote,   the   Renowned   Gringo 

Viajero,  Dressed  to  Ascend  to 

the  Crater  of  Popocatepetl 


THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES  123 

Spanish  is  spoken  in  the  larger  towns  of  Zapoteca.  It  is  the 
language  of  communication  with  the  white;  the  language  of 
law,  religion,  and  public  affairs;  of  the  schools,  such  as  there 
are.  But  even  in  the  towns  you  hear  the  aboriginal  tongue 
on  every  hand,  and  in  the  villages  it  alone  is  spoken.  Indeed, 
I  do  not  exaggerate  in  saying  that  outside  the  cities  of  Te- 
huantepec,  Juchitan,  Salina  Cruz,  and  San  Geronimo  but  little 
Spanish  is  heard  upon  the  Pacific  plains  of  the  Isthmus.  Even 
in  such  large  towns  as  Iztaltepec  it  is  but  little  used.  This 
fact  was  forcibly  impressed  upon  me  by  an  incident  which 
occurred  late  in  the  fall  of  1918. 

It  so  befell  that  upon  a  certain  Sunday  Mr.  James 
Cowan  and  myself  found  ourselves  at  San  Geronimo.  Just  a 
word  about  Cowan  before  I  go  any  further.  This  Cowan — 
he  was  locally  known  as  Senor  Bigote  (Mr.  Mustache) — was 
quite  a  character.  I  suppose  there  was  no  better  known  Gringo 
in  all  southern  Mexico.  For  many  years  he  had  traveled  up 
and  down  the  country  in  the  interests  of  first  one  firm  and 
then  another,  and  at  the  time  when  I  first  met  him  was  selling 
enameled  ware  for  some  American  house.  He  was  a  most 
unique  individual.  In  the  first  place  he  was  a  one-armed  man, 
though  of  course  that  was  not  his  fault.  He  was  a  large  man 
and  sported  an  immense  mustache,  immense  even  for  one  of 
his  size ;  and  he  waxed  the  ends  of  the  said  mustache  and  drew 
them  out  to  pencil  points  which  projected  a  good  four  inches 
from  his  cheeks.  And  in  addition  to  this  he  always  wore  a 
great  broad-brimmed  hat  the  crown  of  which  was  carefully 
brought  to  a  peak.  Altogether,  he  was  a  sight  not  soon  for- 
gotten. 

Well,  as  I  was  saying,  that  Sunday  Senor  Bigote  and  I 
found  ourselves  at  San  Geronimo.  We  were  considering  a 
trip  to  Iztaltepec  and  with  that  object  in  view  hunted  up 


124  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Adamik  and  Melby.  Adamik  was  "conforme,"  as  the  Mex- 
icans say;  that  is,  he  was  willing  to  go.  But  Melby  could  not 
go;  he  was  ex  officio  funeral  director  of  the  New  Town,  it 
seemed,  and  had  a  funeral  on  hand.  However,  he  very  oblig- 
ingly lent  us  a  covered  rig  for  the  trip.  So,  after  we  had  seen 
him  off  on  his  mission,  we  entered  the  rig  and  set  out  tor 
Iztaltepec. 

It  was  a  drive  of  six  miles  through  practically  uninhabited 
country,  and  of  course  there  was  the  ever-present  possibility 
of  being  waylaid  by  bandits ;  but  we  assumed  the  risk.  How 
easily  one  becomes  accustomed  to  taking  chances  in  such  mat- 
ters! Adamik  occupied  the  front  seat  as  driver,  pushing  the 
sturdy  mules  forward  at  a  good  pace,  while  my  young  friend 
Senor  Bigote  and  myself  occupied  the  rear.  A  mile  out  from 
San  Geronimo  we  turned  the  flank  of  Dani  Guiati  and  whirled 
out  onto  the  arid  plain.  Less  than  an  hour  later  we  entered 
the  outskirts  of  Iztaltepec. 

The  outskirts  of  an  Indian  city  are  seldom  prepossessing 
and  those  of  Iztaltepec  were  no  exception  to  the  rule.  They 
differed  from  those  of  most  Indian  towns,  however,  In  one 
respect;  everything  was  laid  out  on  the  checkerboard  plan. 
Iztaltepec  must  have  been  a  place  of  some  size — I  should  say 
it  had  a  population  of  four  or  five  thousand — and  the  suburbs 
were  extensive.  For  well  on  towards  a  mile  we  rode  past 
street  after  street,  each  flanked  by  two  rows  of  Indian  houses, 
practically  all  of  them  wattle  shacks  plastered  over  with  red 
clay.  They  were  the  homes  of  the  poor,  without  windows  and 
probably  without  floors ;  nor  was  there  a  tree  in  sight  nor  a 
shrub  of  any  description.  I  can  not  imagine  more  desolate 
places  in  which  to  dwell,  and  yet  such  are  the  homes — if  homes 
they  can  be  called — of  nine-tenths  of  the  Indians  of  Mexico. 


THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES  125 

What  can  be  expected  of  children  raised  under  such  condi- 
tions? The  crying  need  of  southern  Mexico  is  not  so  much 
legal  reforms  as  social  workers  to  teach  the  poor  how  to  live. 

Toward  the  municipal  center  the  place  took  on  a  more 
prosperous  air,  many  of  the  buildings  comparing  favorably 
with  those  occupied  by  the  middle  classes  of  Tehuantepec  and 
Juchitan.  There  was  a  small  plaza,  upon  the  further  side  of 
which  was  a  church  of  the  usual  Spanish  type,  while  upon  the 
near  side  a  building  with  some  architectural  pretensions 
was  in  course  of  erection. 

Of  course  there  was  a  market.  We  could  see  to  our  right 
the  corner  of  that  indispensable  adjunct  to  every  Isthmean 
town,  and  so  we  alighted  from  the  rig  and  proceeded  in  that 
direction.  We  were  short  of  cigars,  at  least  that  was  the  ex- 
cuse we  m#de  to  one  another,  but  our  real  object  was  to  inspect 
such  Tehuanas  as  might  be  there.  As  luck  would  have  it  we 
struck  the  market  at  the  wrong  hour;  there  were  only  a  few 
Tehuanas  present  and  only  one  of  these  was  passing  fair. 

I  remember  her  well.  She  was  clad  in  an  embroidered 
dress  of  rich  wine-colored  material  and  wore  a  golden  neck 
chain  and  gold  rings  upon  her  fingers.  She  was  decidedly  at- 
tractive and  I  immediately  set  out  to  perform  the  part  of  a 
Mexican  gallant  by  pinching  her  in  the  nape  of  the  neck;  but 
despite  all  my  efforts  she  successfully  eluded  me,  smiling  good- 
naturedly  all  the  time,  however,  and  chattering  with  Adamik 
about  her  goods.  At  last,  noting  that  my  younger  companion, 
Senor  Bigote,  was  becoming  greatly  exercised  at  my  conduct, 
I  was  constrained  to  desist.  Allah  f  orf  end !  I  but  did  this  to 
initiate  my  brother  into  the  ways  of  the  Isthmus. 

We  returned  to  the  municipal  building  and  sought  audi- 
ence of  the  presidente.  Having  come  all  the  way  to  Iztaltepec, 
we  would  see  its  celebrated  pottery  works  before  going  back 


126  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

to  San  Geronimo.  Could  he  tell  us  where  they  were  located? 
The  presidente  said  we  would  find  them  somewhere  in  the 
northeastern  outskirts  of  the  town,  but  was  not  certain  as  to 
their  exact  location.  It  would  be  necessary,  he  said,  for  us  to 
inquire  as  we  proceeded.  So  we  entered  our  rig  and  took  the 
back  track  toward  San  Geronimo,  stopping  from  time  to  time 
to  make  inquiries. 

Now  for  the  first  time  we  realized  to  what  limited  extent 
Spanish  was  spoken  at  Iztaltepec.  In  nearly  every  instance 
those  accosted  made  answer  in  Zapotecan.  This  would  have 
been  no  great  matter  for  wonder  had  they  been  women  or  chil- 
dren ;  but,  as  I  remember,  we  addressed  only  grown  men,  and 
not  one  of  them  answered  in  Spanish.  The  location  of  the 
pottery  works  under  such  conditions  thus  became  a  matter  of 
no  little  difficulty,  but,  what  with  a  liberal  use  of  sign  lan- 
guage and  much  gesticulating  and  pointing  about,  we  were 
finally  made  to  understand,  and  in  the  end  actually  found  our- 
selves alongside  the  potter's  home.  After  we  had  hallooed 
three  or  four  times  the  potter  came  forth.  He  was  a  full-blood 
Zapotec. 

He  led  us  to  the  pottery.  Housed  in  a  most  disreputable 
shack,  the  exterior  was  no  index  to  what  was  contained  there- 
in. The  potter  was  evidently  no  mean  craftsman;  the  place 
was  filled  with  the  products  of  his  genius,  plain  pottery,  vases, 
and  statuary  wrought  in  clay.  Many  of  the  patterns  were  of 
exquisite  design.  I  have  seen  samples  of  the  ancient  art  of  the 
Zapotecs,  but  there  was  here  no  evidence  of  the  aboriginal; 
every  line  was  classic  and  it  was  evident  that  the  workman 
had  been  thoroughly  instructed  in  the  craft  by  some  Spanish 
master. 

All  this  pottery  was  made  of  a  fine  blue  clay.  The  potter 
informed  us  that  an  unlimited  supply  of  this  clay  was  obtain- 
able in  the  immediate  vicinity. 


THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES  127 

Once  more  entering  our  rig,  Adamik  whipped  up  the  mules 
and  an  hour  and  a  half  later  we  pulled  up  before  the  great  gate 
of  the  Compania  Comercial  at  San  Geronimo.  The  affable 
Melby,  having  successfully  concluded  for  the  day  his  duties 
as  funeral  director,  was  there  to  meet  us.  That  same  evening 
Senor  Bigote  and  I  returned  to  Salina  Cruz. 


The  Zapotecan  seems  to  be  in  process  of  dissolution.  It 
is  the  language  of  the  lower  class,  of  the  Indian,  and  the  Span- 
ish-speaking element  ever  speak  of  it  with  a  species  of  con- 
tempt which  it  is  far  from  deserving.  The  cultivated  Mexican 
will  tell  you  that  it  has  no  grammar  and  is  only  a  "dialect," 
and  makes  a  point  of  never  calling  it  a  language.  It  is  true 
that  it  has  none  of  the  needless  grammatical  complexities  of 
the  Castilian,  but  that  is  rather  in  its  favor.  It  possesses  its 
own  simple  grammar  and,  though  not  as  sweet  as  the  Spanish, 
strikes  not  unpleasantly  upon  the  ear. 

I  am  told  that  under  the  Diaz  regime  the  printing  of 
books  in  the  Indian  tongues  was  f  orbidded,  and  though  now  a 
more  liberal  rule  prevails  the  study  of  the  native  tongues  is 
still  discouraged.  It  is  unfortunate  that  this  is  the  case. 
Equally  among  Anglo-Americans  and  Latin-Americans  the 
policy  has  been  to  educate  the  Indian  in  the  European  tongue, 
and  instruction  in  the  native  dialect  has  generally  been  for- 
bidden; a  false  policy,  since  it  has  inevitably  shut  the  older 
portion  of  the  Indian  community  out  from  the  benefits  of  civil- 
ization. If  instruction  were  given  in  the  Indian  dialect  it 
would  penetrate  the  entire  community  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent,  and  on  the  other  hand,  since  the  native  dialect  is  with- 
out a  literature,  it  would  never  rise  to  the  rank  of  a  rival. 

An  old  professor  residing  at  San  Bias  has  published  a 


128  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Zapotecan  grammar  and  translated  portions  of  the  Bible  into 
the  vernacular. 

During  many  months  of  association  with  these  Indians 
I  never  met  so  much  as  one  who  possessed  a  Zapotecan  name. 
There  were  no  Cosijoezas,  Cosijopiis,  Donajis,  or  Pinopaas, 
while  on  the  other  hand  there  was  no  end  of  Franciscos,  Man- 
uels,  Joses,  Marias,  Rosas,  and  Lucias,  and  Dons  and  Donas 
were  as  common  among  the  Indians  as  among  the  families  of 
white  blood.  This  condition  of  things  has  arisen,  as  we  shall 
see  later  on,  from  the  practice  of  the  early  Spanish  priests, 
who  in  baptizing  were  always  careful  to  endow  each  neophyte 
not  only  with  a  Spanish  surname  but  also  with  a  suitable 
Christian  name.  Without  desiring  to  reflect  upon  the  good 
intentions  of  those  early  fathers,  it  seems  a  pity  that  such 
native  names  as  Zaachila,  Pinopaa,  Naatipa,  and  Donaji,  as- 
sociated as  they  ever  must  be  with  the  past  grandeur  of  the 
race,  should  have  utterly  passed  from  use. 

This  seems  a  convenient  place  to  correct  certain  mis- 
apprehensions which  have  arisen  as  to  the  use  of  names  and 
titles  among  Spanish-speaking  people  generally.  There  seems 
to  be  a  prevalent  impression  that  the  title  "Don"  is  indicative 
of  nobility.  Nothing  is  further  from  the  fact;  "hidalgo"  is 
the  term  applied  to  a  member  of  the  lower  nobility  of  Spain, 
while  "Don"  is  similar  to  the  English  "Sir"  and  "Sefior"  is 
equivalent  to  the  English  "Mr.."  The  title  "Don"  is  always 
used  with  the  Christian  name ;  for  instance,  Eduardo  Guzman 
may  be  addressed  either  as  Seiior  Guzman  or  as  Don  Eduardo. 
"Don"  and  its  feminine  "Dona"  are  applied  indiscriminately  in 
Spanish-speaking  countries  to  all  adults  above  the  servant 
class ;  differing  in  this  respect  from  their  English  equivalents 
"Sir"  and  "Lady,"  which  are  confined  to  the  few. 

From  reading  English  novels  dealing  with  Latin  life  one 


THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES  129 

gets  the  impression  that  the  girls  are  all  named  Dolores,  Mer- 
cedes, or  Bonita.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  in  southern  Mexico  at 
least,  these  names  are  by  no  means  common.  Rosa,  Clara, 
Lucia,  Maria,  and  Juanita  are  in  much  more  general  use. 
Guadalupe,  the  name  of  the  patron  saint  of  Mexico,  is  also 
popular. 

The  Zapotecs  of  the  mountains  and  those  of  the  Pacific 
plain  speak  slightly  varying  dialects  and  wear  a  different 
dress.  Those  of  the  mountains  preserve  the  costume  of  their 
ancestors.  The  dress  of  the  women  consists  of  a  short  huipil 
or  sleeveless  jacket,  the  refajo  (a  short  wrapper  descending 
slightly  below  the  knees  and  confined  at  the  waist  by  a  many 
colored  scarf),  and  a  cloth  wound  about  the  head  something 
after  the  fashion  of  a  turban.  This  dress,  more  or  less  orna- 
mented with  bead-work  or  embroidery,  is  purely  Indian. 

The  Zapotecs  of  the  Pacific  plains  (the  Tehuanos,  as  they 
are  generally,  but  loosely,  called),  while  not  adopting  Euro- 
pean dress,  have  departed  widely  from  the  dress  of  their  fore- 
fathers. The  men  are  clad  in  white  shirt-coats  and  pants  of 
lightest  cotton,  the  shirt  being  worn  outside  the  pantaloons  for 
greater  comfort.  On  gala  occasions  silk*  is  frequently  substi- 
tuted for  cotton  by  the  young  gallants.  . 

The  only  striking  feature  of  the  male  attire  is  the  hat  or 
sombrero.  The  festal  hat  is  a  great  affair.  It  differs  from  the 
steeple-crowned  hat  of  the  more  northern  parts  of  Mexico, 
being  lower  and  broader.  All  these  hats  are  of  exactly  the 
same  shape,  differing  only  in  color;  and  there  are  only  three 
colors  worn,  gray,  brick  red,  and  purple. 

Like  all  Mexican  hats  these  have  immense  brims,  which 
are  turned  up  sharply  so  that  the  brim  forms  a  most  convenient 
receptacle  for  all  manner  of  things.  The  Indian  generally 

*Silk  is  raised  by  the  Indians  of  Santa  Maria  Guiniagata  and  sold  to 
the  people  of  the  plain. 


130  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

carries  his  cigarettes  and  matches  in  his  hat  brim.  On  being 
overtaken  by  a  sudden  shower  the  workman  strips,  and  wrap- 
ping up  his  pants  and  shirt  into  as  compact  a  bundle  as  pos- 
sible, pushes  it  up  into  the  crown  of  his  hat,  claps  his  hat  on 
his  head,  and  goes  about  his  business. 

With  the  Tehuana  the  ancient  costume  has  undergone  a 
wonderful  transformation.  Her  upper  garment  is  the  huipil,* 
a  sleeveless  garment  unconfined  at  the  waist.  This  is  most 
commonly  of  brilliant  red  sprinkled  with  polka  dots  of  white, 
and  with  a  gorgeous  border  of  yellow  needlework.  She  has 
discarded  the  simple  wrapper  and  adopted  the  skirt;  not  the 
European  skirt,  however,  but  apparently  one  of  her  own  de- 
vising. The  skirt  is  very  full  and  ends  in  a  wide  flounce,  in- 
variably white.  The  latter  is  merely  basted  onto  the  skirt, 
so  that  it  may  be  detached  and  laundered  weekly.  I  was  told 
that  this  skirt  is  derived  from  the  Andalusian  skirt  introduced 
long  ago.** 

Like  her  white  sister  the  Tehuana  covers  her  head  with 
the  reboso  or  manta.  Both  sexes  go  barefooted  about  town, 
though  the  male  Indian  generally  wears  sandals  when  in  the 
country.  The  Tehuana  cannot  be  prevailed  upon  to  wear 
shoes  under  any  circumstances.  Their  feet  are  of  good  size 
and  from  constantly  walking  in  the  sand  the  toes  are  spread 

*The  huipil  is  not  worn  at  weddings.  The  bride  wears  instead  a 
peculiar  waist  with  wide  ruff  about  the  neck,  and  trimmed  at  the  bottom 
with  lace  of  old  gold.  The  women  of  Jalapa,  up  the  river  from  Tehuan- 
tepec,  do  not  wear  the  huipil  at  all,  but  wear  a  loose  waist  resembling 
the  upper  portion  of  a  lace  night-shirt. 

**So  I  was  told  by  Lie.  M.  Garfia  Salinas.  Surgeon  John  C.  Spear, 
a  member  of  the  Shufeldt  expedition,  states  that  when  they  visited  Te- 
huantepec  (in  1871)  the  women  of  that  place  wore,  "instead  of  the  plain 
white  skirt  (worn  by  the  mountaineers),  one  composed  of  strips  of  va- 
rious-colored cloth,  with  the  strips  so  arranged  as  to  encircle  the  body, 
which  makes  a  very  gay  and  pleasing  costume."  While  it  seems  that  we 
have  here  the  source  of  that  wondrous  creation,  the  Tehuana  skirt,  it  is 
equally  evident  that  it  was  but  the  crude  beginning. 


THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES  131 

wide  apart.  But  this  does  not  embarrass  them  in  the  least, 
for  these  gentle  creatures  are  not  inclined  to  be  silly. 

The  boys  of  the  lower  class  go  entirely  naked  until  six 
or  eight  years  of  age,  and  run  about  the  streets  in  utter  inno- 
cence; but  the  little  girls,  however  young,  are  generally  clad 
as  modestly  as  their  mothers.  Their  dress  is  an  exact  minia- 
ture of  that  of  the  grown-up  Tehuanas,  huipil  and  skirt,  white 
flounce  and  all. 

The  Zapotecs  are  far  and  away  the  best  Indians  in  Mex- 
ico. They  alone  never  bowed  to  the  lordly  Aztec  or  Mexican;* 
from  Oaxaca  sprang  Mexico's  two  leading  statesmen,  Benito 
Juarez,  a  full-blooded  Zapotec,  and  Porfirio  Diaz,  of  the  same 
race  by  his  mother's  side ;  and  even  today  the  Sons  of  Zaachila 
are  accounted  the  bravest  of  the  civilized  races.  Juchitan 
in  particular  is  renowned  for  the  valor  of  her  sons,  with  whom 
the  military  service  has  for  generations  been  a  profession. 

But  this  statement  may  be  easily  misunderstood.  The 
Zapotec  and  the  North  American  Indian  of  the  western  plains 
are  as  different  as  light  and  darkness.  The  latter  is  savage, 
taciturn,  and  sullen;  the  former  is  joyous  and  happy.  The 
women  in  particular  are  forever  smiling  and  laughing.  In 
fact,  the  Tehuano  has  few  of  the  characteristics  which  we  gen- 
erally ascribe  to  the  Indian.  It  is  seldom  that  one  sees  him 
frown.  His  face  is  open  and  he  looks  you  full  in  the  eye.  He 
loves  a  jolly  time  and  nothing  pleases  him  better  than  a  hearty 
slap  on  the  back,  though  it  be  administered  by  a  total  stranger. 

The  children  have  none  of  the  proverbial  stoicism  of  the 
Indian  child,  but  laugh  and  cry  precisely  like  white  children. 
At  school  the  children  are  full  of  life  and  when  recess-time 
comes  pandemonium  is  let  loose  precisely  as  in  Europe.  We 

"These  Indians  do  not  call  themselves  Mexicans.  To  this  day  the 
term  Mexican  is  applied  by  them,  as  it  was  of  old,  to  the  Aztecan  races 
which  inhabit  the  central  plateau  and  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz.  Constant 

applications  of  this  usage  occur  in  the  historical  chapters  which  follow. 


132  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

may  add  that  the  Zapotec  baby  is  a  prodigious  bawler  who  can 
easily  out  howl  his  Irish  cousin. 

It  is  a  pleasure  to  live  among  these  people,  for  they  are 
uniformly  honest.  Thievery  is  practically  unknown.  Cen- 
turies of  evil  example  have  failed  to  corrupt  the  simple  Indian. 
During  a  year's  residence  at  the  Hotel  Salina  Cruz,  with  serv- 
ants changing  continually,  I  never  lost  a  single  article,  and  my 
bedroom  door  was  never  locked.  On  several  occasions  I  left 
small  coins  on  my  dressing  table  to  try  the  Indian's  honesty, 
and  in  no  case  was  as  much  as  a  cent  purloined.  On  every  hand, 
from  Mexican  and  foreigner  alike,  one  heard  the  unanimous 
and  true  verdict :  "These  Indians  are  honest." 

Intemperance  is  the  vice  of  the  male  Zapotec;  a  thing 
not  to  be  wondered  at,  since  the  prohibition  movement  has 
not  reached  southern  Mexico.  Drinking  is  wellnigh  universal 
among  the  white  Mexicans  and  foreigners  of  that  region.  Both 
men  and  women  drink  and  drunkenness  is  hardly  considered  a 
disgrace;  and  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  Indian  has  not 
advanced  beyond  the  example  set  by  his  superiors. 

Every  Indian  town  is  abundantly  supplied  with  grog- 
eries  (cantinas)  where  the  fiery  liquors  of  the  country,  tequila, 
mescal,  and  aguardiente,  may  be  had  for  a  pittance;  and  at 
all  fiestas  (and  fiestas  are  numerous)  a  large  percent  of  the 
male  population  become  intoxicated,  and  the  streets  are  full 
of  reeling  Indians.  The  Indian  women  do  not  drink  as  a  rule. 

Their  standards  of  sexual  morality  are  not  what  they 
might  be.  It  is  traditional  that  virtue  hath  her  abode  in  the 
regions  of  sleet  and  ice  and  that  the  tropic  sun  breeds  immoral- 
ity, and  a  poor  reason  is  better  than  none ;  but  the  true  expla- 
nation lies  elsewhere.  When  the  conquistadors  (for  the 
most  part  military  adventurers  of  the  worst  sort)  entered  the 
land,  they  set  upon  a  course  of  unbridled  profligacy  with  the 


THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES  133 

daughters  of  the  soil ;  and  their  evil  example  has  descended  to 
modern  times.  Bachelors  frequently  keep  house  and  the  cus- 
tom exists  of  keeping  a  Tehuana.  The  marriage  rite  is  not  con- 
sidered essential  and  many  Indian  maidens  regard  a  "Left- 
handed"  arrangement  with  a  white  man  as  eminently  proper. 

But  among  the  Indians  themselves  the  standard  is  higher 
and  concubinage  is  not  common.  Prostitution  is  almost  un- 
known ;  though  in  some  places  there  are  institutions  known  as 
banos  dobles  (double  baths)  which  have  given  the  Indians 
an  evil  reputation,  not  deserved,  for  the  girls  connected  with 
these  institutions  generally  come  from  afar  and  a  girl  of  the 
town  who  is  seen  in  their  vicinity  is  shunned  by  Indian  society. 

But  while  the  Zapotecs  are  on  the  whole  a  moral  race,  they 
are  not  prudish.  They  are  much  given  to  bathing  and  at  Te- 
huantepec  crowds  of  the  lower  classes  may  be  seen  at  almost 
any  time  of  the  day  disporting  in  the  waters  of  the  river. 
Bathing  suits  are  conspicuous  by  their  absence.  The  ladies 
have  a  way  of  wiggling  out  of  their  clothes  (save  the  chimese) 
and  into  them  again  without  exposing  overmuch  of  their  per- 
sons ;  but  the  way  the  males  strip  to  the  skin  and  frolic  about 
would  shock  any  good  Moslem.  In  watching  these  males  I 
noted  that  in  most  cases  their  skin  was  neither  yellow  nor 
brown,  but  of  a  deep  brick-red  color,  and  for  the  first  time 
realized  that  the  term  Red  Man,  sometimes  applied  to  the 
American  Indian,  was  not  a  misnomer. 

Very  often,  rather  than  go  to  the  river  they  bathe  in  the 
irrigation  ditches  adjoining  their  homes.  On  one  occasion  as 
Clarence  Harvey  and  myself  were  passing  through  an  irrigat- 
ed district  we  came  upon  a  shapely  Tehuana  in  the  midst  of 
her  ablutions.  She  had  turned  her  back  ere  my  companion 
called  my  attention  to  the  situation,  and  there  she  sat,  waiting 
quite  unconcernedly  for  us  to  depart;  and  why  not,  since  she 


134  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

had  her  back  turned  to  us.  And  yet  had  this  occurred  in  Persia 
and  had  the  matter  been  discovered,  we  had  doubtless  all  three 
been  put  to  the  sword.  But  there  is  no  accounting  for  differ- 
ences in  customs. 

In  passing  through  the  market  place  the  men  are  accus- 
tomed to  lay  their  hands  caressingly  upon  the  women's  shoul- 
ders and  even  pat  their  cheeks,  and  this  conduct  is  not  ordi- 
narily resented  but  answered  with  smiles.  Many  Tehuanas 
regard  it  as  a  compliment  to  be  chucked  under  the  chin,  and 
that  even  by  a  stranger.  But  the  curse  of  Allah  be  upon  such 
as  imagine  iniquity,  for  there  is  no  guile  in  these  women's 
hearts  and  those  who  presume  too  much  upon  their  simplicity 
are  sure  to  meet  with  a  rebuff.  In  the  tender-hearted  Te- 
huana,  however,  this  is  indicated  only  by  a  pained  expression, 
for  these  gentle  creatures  never  repel  an  advance  by  spitting 
cat  like,  as  do  the  women  of  western  Europe,  nor  by  scratching 
or  slapping  the  offender's  face,  as  is  the  custom  with  their 
sisters  of  Celtic  blood. 

The  whites  on  the  Isthmus  readily  intermarry  with  the 
Zapotec  Indian  women.  They  make  excellent  wives,  being 
very  loyal  and  industrious,  and  the  children  of  such  unions 
are  intelligent,  energetic,  and  lovable  and  are  always  num- 
bered among  the  whites.  Indeed,  it  is  proper  that  they  should 
be  since  with  the  intelligence  of  the  white  they  combine  many 
sterling  moral  qualities  derived  with  their  Indian  blood.  From 
the  moral  point  of  view  the  Zapotec  Indian  is  in  not  a  few 
respects  the  superior  of  many  white  races. 

Education  is  at  a  low  ebb  on  the  Isthmus.  All  the  towns 
are  provided  with  public  schools,  but  the  salaries  of  teachers 
are  miserably  low  and  the  methods  of  instruction  are  anti- 
quated. Schooling  does  not  extend  beyond  the  fourth  or  fifth 
grade.  In  the  remoter  villages  no  provision  whatever  is  made 


THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES  135 

for  the  education  of  the  Indian.  That  noble  woman,  Dona 
Juana  Romero,  who  was  fully  alive  to  the  educational  needs 
of  her  people,  founded  two  schools  at  Tehuantepec,  one  for 
boys  and  one  for  girls,  which  offer  courses  covering  some  six 
or  seven  years.  These  are  the  highest  institutions  of  learning 
on  the  Isthmus.  The  youth  of  the  well-to-do  are  sent  away 
to  Oaxaca  City,  Mexico  City,  or  to  the  United  States  or  France 
to  finish  their  education. 

The  Christian  religion  is  universally  professed  by  the  Za- 
potecs,  among  whom  not  a  trace  of  the  ancient  heathen  reli- 
gion can  be  found.  They  appear  to  regard  with  horror  and 
avoid  with  superstitious  dread  all  those  places  containing 
remains  of  the  ancient  faith.  Singular  as  it  may  seem,  the 
Indians  now-a-days  pay  more  attention  to  the  ceremonies  con- 
nected with  the  Christian  faith  than  the  whites  who  introduced 
it  among  them.  Indeed,  as  the  Indian  villages  are  more  remote 
from  the  centers  of  European  civilization  the  ordinances  of 
the  church  are  more  regularly  observed,  notwithstanding  the 
absence  of  priests.  In  such  remote  villages  the  "ave"  and  the 
"oration"  are  constantly  heard,  while  in  the  larger  cities  of 
the  land  the  churches  and  convents  are  used  for  barracks. 

All  that  the  Zapotec  needs  is  a  fair  chance.  He  is  ignor- 
ant, but  he  is  willing  to  learn.  He  is  superstitious.  He  still 
clings  to  the  church.  His  life  has  become  inextricably  bound 
up  with  its  forms  and  ceremonies ;  but  for  him  it  has  no  higher 
meaning.  His  intellectual  and  moral  standards  are  not  what 
they  should  be,  but  through  no  fault  of  his.  He  has  made  the 
most  of  his  few  opportunities.  While  the  missionary  societies 
have  compassed  land  and  sea  for  one  proselyte,  they  have 
passed  by  this  poor  fellow.  They  have  cast  seed  on  stony 
places,  which  if  sown  in  this  good  soil  would  have  brought 
forth  a  hundred  fold.  What  the  Zapotec  needs  is  the  gospel 


136  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

of  righteousness  taught  in  his  own  tongue,  hospitals,  orphan- 
ages, and  schools  of  higher  learning. 

The  Indians  have  the  right  of  suffrage  and  very  generally 
exercise  it.  In  their  towns  the  mayor  and  other  officers  are 
generally  chosen  from  their  own  class,  and  exercise  authority 
as  government  officials  and  not  as  tribal  chiefs.  There  are, 
however,  a  few  of  the  aboriginal  laws  and  customs  still  in 
existence,  such  as  that  of  the  village  or  tribe  possessing  land 
as  common  property.  In  their  music,  songs,  and  dances  they 
have  also  retained  much  of  the  ancient  culture.  The  arts  for 
which  this  race  was  at  one  time  famous  have,  on  the  contrary, 
for  the  most  part  perished;  the  manufacture  of  pottery  and 
certain  sorts  of  dyed  fabrics  seeming  to  be' the  only  exceptions. 

Tradition  tells  us  that  the  Huaves  came  from  South 
America.  Prior  to  the  coming  of  the  Zapotecs  they  occupied 
the  whole  of  the  Pacific  plains;  in  fact,  Tehuantepec  appears 
to  have  been  founded  by  the  Huaves.  Their  numbers  are  now 
greatly  diminished,  and  they  are  limited  to  four  small  fishing 
villages  situated  in  the  district  intervening  between  the  great 
lagoons  and  the  Pacific  ocean.  They  are  greatly  inferior  to 
the  Zapotecs  in  civilization.  Fish  is  their  principal  article  of 
food  and  fishing  their  chief  occupation.  They  supply  the 
southern  portion  of  the  Isthmus  with  salt  fish,  which  they 
carry  on  their  backs  in  huge  baskets  for  many  miles  from 
town  to  town  in  search  of  customers. 

The  ignorance  and  simplicity  of  this  people  is  well  illus- 
trated by  the  following  story.  It  seems  that  at  the  time  when 
the  French  fleet  which  accompanied  Maximilian  was  lying  off 
the  coast  of  Mexico,  the  president  of  the  republic  sent  to  each 
town  a  request  for  contributions  of  money,  at  the  same  time 
directing  that  the  people  do  their  utmost  to  repel  the  invader. 


THE  INDIAN  PEOPLES  137 

The  Huaves  in  response  sent  thirty  pesos  and  a  message  stat- 
ing that,  should  the  fleet  appear  off  their  coast,  they  would 
immediately  go  forth  in  their  canoes  and  attack  it. 

All  the  towns  of  the  Huaves  are  named  after  saints,  and 
they  are  accounted  Christians,  and  yet  I  was  told  that  in  case 
of  sickness  they  still  made  pilgrimages  to  Monapoxtiac  to 
propitiate  the  ancient  gods. 

The  two  divisions  of  the  Choque-Mixe  race  people  the 
mountains  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  pass,  the  Cheques  or 
Chimalapas  occupying  the  towns  of  San  Miquel  and  Santa 
Maria  Chimalapa,  and  the  Mixes  dwelling  in  and  about  San 
Juan  Guichicovi.  They  are  rather  darker  than  the  Zapotecs 
of  the  plains,  although  the  true  color  of  their  skin  is  often 
greatly  obscured  by  the  "pinta"  a  leprous  skin-disease  quite 
prevalent  among  them. 

The  pinta  affects  a  large  percentage  of  the  mountain 
population,  practically  all  of  whom  are  Indians,  as  well  as 
several  places  on  the  Pacific  side  near  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains. In  fact,  I  met  with  several  cases  of  pinta  in  Tehuan- 
tepec.  White  or  blue  spots,  often  the  size  of  a  silver  dollar, 
appear  on  the  face,  hands,  and  body,  and  sometimes  an  indi- 
vidual is  met  with  whose  face  or  hands  are  completely  changed 
from  their  natural  color.  The  affected  parts  are  neither 
swollen  nor  painful,  and  the  fingers  and  toes  do  not  drop  off, 
as  in  the  West  Indian  leprosy.  It  does  not  incapacitate  anyone 
for  labor  nor  is  it  ever  fatal.  In  order  to  contract  it,  it  seems 
necessary  to  live  in  very  close  relations  with  the  affected  per- 
son, and  Europeans  have  seldom  been  known  to  contract  the 
disease. 

On  the  Atlantic  plains  of  the  northern  portion  of  the 
Isthmus  dwell  the  Aztecs  or  Mexican  Indians  proper,  who 


138  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

speak  the  Nahuatl  or  ancient  language  of  the  Central  Plateau. 
They  are  nearly  equal  to  the  Zapotecs  in  personal  appearance, 
but  are  neither  as  intelligent  and  vivacious  nor  as  warlike 
as  the  Sons  of  Zaachila.  As  the  region  which  they  inhabit  is 
beyond  the  scope  of  this  book  we  shall  not  consider  them 
further. 


CHAPTER  IX. 
TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS 

THE  transportation  facilities  of  southern  Mexico  are 
poor.    There  are  but  two  railroads  (both  standard 
guage,  however),  in  all  this  region;  the  Tehuante- 
pec  National  Railway,  across  the  Isthmus  from  Puerto  Mexico 
(Coatzacoalcos)  on  the  Gulf  to  Salina  Cruz  on  the  Pacific,  a 
distance  of  189  miles,  and  the  Pan-American  Railroad,  which 
connects  with  the  Tehuantepec  line  at  San  Geronimo  (30  miles 
from  Salina   Cruz)    and   proceeds  thence  along  the   Pacific 
littoral  to  Mariscal  on  the  Guatemalan  border,  some  285  miles. 
Daily  trains  departed  from  each  terminus  of  these  lines, 
leaving  early  in  the  morning  so  as  to  reach  the  other  terminus 
by  evening.     Owing  to  the  prevalent  state  of  insecurity  no 
trains  were  run  at  night,  and  indeed  there  was  no  demand  for 
night  trains,  the  day  trains  being  sufficient  to  handle  all 
traffic. 

In  fact,  the  lines  of  communication  were  kept  open  mainly 
for  military  considerations.  Each  train  was  a  moving  fortress. 
It  ordinarily  consists  of  not  more  than  a  dozen  cars,  two  at 
least  of  which  are  armored  cars  filled  with  soldiers.  On  the 
Tehuantepec  and  Pan-American  lines  the  trains  have  seldom 
been  attacked,  and  indeed  there  was  practically  no  danger 
in  traveling  by  train  on  the  Pacific  plains,  it  being  said  that 
the  rebels  in  that  section  were  indisposed  to  attack  because 
they  did  not  wish  to  interfere  with  their  own  people,  of  which 
the  passengers  mainly  consisted.  Others  claimed,  and  with 
greater  appearance  of  reason,  that  this  comparative  immunity 

139 


140  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

from  attack  was  the  result  of  settled  policy  on  the  part  of  the 
rebels  or  brigands,  who  had  learned  that  the  destruction  of  a 
train  meant  an  immediate  concentration  of  government  troops 
and  several  weeks  hard  hiking  for  the  rebels. 

On  one  occasion  it  so  happened  that  I  was  aboard  train 
making  my  usual  Sunday  trip  to  Tehuantepec.  The  car  was 
fairly  well  filled.  Don  Carlos  Parkins  and  Gonzales  Soto,  man- 
ager of  the  Santa  Cruz  sugar  plantation  six  miles  west  from 
San  Geronimo,  were  with  me  while  a  number  of  Mexican  ladies 
and  two  or  three  men  occupied  the  seats  in  front  of  us.  Our 
train  passed  through  the  defile  north  of  Salina  Cruz  and  sped 
out  across  the  plain,  but  we  had  barely  passed  the  siding  at 
Pierson,  two  or  three  miles  beyond,  when  the  sound  of  shots 
ahead  greeted  our  ears. 

Hastily  raising  the  windows,  we  perceived  smoke  belching 
from  the  armored  car  in  front  of  us.  Whether  or  not  the  train 
had  actually  been  fired  upon  by  rebels  in  the  timber  adjoining 
the  right  of  way  we  never  learned,  but  at  any  rate  the  soldiers 
appeared  to  think  an  attack  was  contemplated  and  so  evidently 
thought  the  engineer,  for  the  train  sped  on  faster  than  ever 
and  the  military  kept  up  a  steady  f  usilade. 

It  wras  interesting  to  note  the  effect  upon  the  occupants  of 
the  car.  We  three  managed  to  keep  our  seats  though  Soto, 
who  sat  in  front  of  Don  Carlos  and  myself,  turned  green  with 
fear.  Even  Don  Carlos  I  thought  a  trifle  nervous  though  he 
summoned  a  forced  smile  as  he  met  my,  to  him,  inscrutable 
oriental  gaze.  But  the  effect  on  our  fellow  passengers  was 
more  marked.  The  ladies  glanced  hurriedly  about  and  then 
one  after  another  slid  down  between  the  seats  and  crouched 
low.  Garfia  Salina's  sister,  who  occupied  the  second  seat 
directly  in  front  of  us,  followed  the  example  thus  set,  but  not 
until  she  had  cast  a  deprecating  smile  in  my  direction.  I  read 


A  Sugar  Plantation  Railroad,  a  Substantial  Affai 


The  Primitive  Cart  and  Oxen  are  the  Common  Means  of  Transportation 


TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS  141 

that  smile.  Woman  though  she  was  she  dreaded  our  ridicule 
almost  as  greatly  as  she  feared  the  enemy  without. 

Another  passenger,  a  little  man,  was  troubled  with  no 
such  misgivings.  He  boldly  took  counsel  of  fear  and,  first 
stripping  off  his  coat  and  spreading  it  on  the  floor  of  the  car, 
laid  down  at  full  length  between  the  seats.  As  I  watched  him 
I  heard  in  my  ear  the  sage  voice  of  Don  Carlos. 

"That  fellow  adopts  the  proper  course.  When  you  lay 
stretched  out  that  way  you  run  the  minimum  of  risk;  least 
surface  exposed  to  a  ball,  you  see.  He's  evidently  been  through 
this  sort  of  thing  before  and  is  well  up  in  the  business.*' 

Another  item,  0  son  of  Abdullah,  in  the  science  of  revolu- 
tions. Enter  it  in  thy  notebook  against  a  possible  visit  to  the 
Isthmus.  As  for  the  writer,  my  brother,  candor  compels  the 
admission  that  I  felt  ill  at  ease,  though  vanity  prevented  me 
from  taking  any  active  steps  for  my  safety. 

A  few  moments  later  the  firing  ceased  and  the  passengers 
resumed  their  seats.  If  there  were  any  rebels  in  the  timber 
we  were  now  beyond  their  range. 

Don  Lemon  Meyer,  a  young  commission  merchant  who 
was  my  fellow  guest  at  the  Hotel  Salina  Cruz  during  the  early 
months  of  1918,  once  told  me  an  interesting  experience  which 
befell  him.  It  so  happened  that  some  months  before,  as  he 
was  traveling  from  Puerto  Mexico  to  Salina  Cruz,  the  train 
on  which  he  rode  was  beset  by  bandits.  The  scene  of  the  hold- 
up was  a  point  not  far  from  Puerto  Mexico  where  the  railroad 
penetrates  a  dense  forest;  the  time,  just  before  sunrise. 

Don  Lemon  was  carrying  eight  hundred  pesos  in  a  belt 
about  his  waist,  which,  as  the  money  belonged  to  his  employers, 
he  felt  he  could  under  no  circumstances  surrender.  He  deter- 
mined to  effect  an  escape  from  the  train  if  possible.  Throw- 
ing up  his  window  he  perceived  that  the  bandits  had  gathered 


142  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

about  the  front  end  of  the  train,  leaving  the  rear  unguarded. 
He  sprang  up  and  shouldering  his  way  past  his  affrighted 
fellow  passengers,  reached  the  rear  platform  and  springing  off 
disappeared  in  the  bush. 

In  the  darkness  and  confusion  he  managed  to  work  his 
way  into  the  dense  jungle  and  avoid  capture.  For  several 
hours  he  lay  concealed,  fearing  the  bandits  might  be  still  lurk- 
ing somewhere  about,  and  then  started  for  the  next  station 
six  miles  away.  Even  then  he  dared  not  take  to  the  railroad 
track.  Slowly,  in  constant  dread  of  discovery,  he  worked  his 
way  through  the  jungle,  paralleling  the  railway  until  he 
reached  the  station.  The  adventure  meant  the  loss  of  two 
meals  and  hours  of  exhausting  labor,  but  he  had  saved  his 
money  and  felt  fully  recompensed  for  the  hardships  through 
which  he  had  passed. 

This  leads  me  to  speak  of  another  incident  which,  while 
it  occurred  some  years  earlier  and  is  in  no  way  connected  with 
the  subject  of  transportation,  throws  a  vivid  light  on  the  law- 
less conditions  of  those  times.  When  the  American  troops 
occupied  Vera  Cruz  in  the  spring  of  1914  the  position  of  all 
American  residents  in  Mexico  became  more  or  less  insecure  and 
such  as  could  fled  the  country.  At  this  time  one  Don  Jeronimo 
Mahoney  dwelt  at  Reforma,  the  little  station  situated  where 
the  Pan  American  Railway  crosses  the  Ostuta  River. 

Now  Don  Jeronimo  was  neither  a  Mexican  nor  a  Sinn 
Feiner,  as  his  name  would  suggest,  but  an  American ;  and  when 
he  learned  of  the  occupation  of  Vera  Cruz  he  decided  it  was 
about  time  for  him  to  decamp,  or,  as  he  expressed  it,  to  "make 
his  getaway."  He  accordingly  set  out  for  Salina  Cruz,  he  and 
Mrs.  Mahoney  and  his  sister-in-law  Ruth,  all  mounted.  To 
avoid  discovery  they  took  to  by-paths,  following  the  lanes  of 
the  forest  and  skirting  the  north  shore  of  the  Upper  Lagoon. 


TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS  143 

They  reached  and  crossed  the  Rio  de  Perros  below  Juchitan 
and  then,  veering  to  the  southwest,  turned  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  great  lagoon  in  the  neighborhood  of  Punta  de 
Aguas.  Hastening  forward  and  still  keeping  to  the  forest 
trails,  they  struck  across  country  in  the  direction — as  they 
supposed — of  the  Tehuantepec  River  crossing;  but  lost  their 
way  and  fell  off  to  the  left,  entering  the  timbered  district  which 
intervenes  betwixt  the  Tehuantepec  and  the  Tilema  Lagoon. 

Soon  they  heard  horsemen  approaching  and  thinking 
themselves  pursued  left  the  beaten  way  and  plunged  into  the 
thicket.  They  dismounted  and  turned  their  horses  loose  and, 
fearful  lest  they  be  followed  by  their  footprints,  removed  their 
shoes — a  fatal  mistake,  for  soon  their  tender  feet  were  cut  to 
the  quick  by  the  thorns  and  brambles  of  the  jungle.  Though 
the  women  were  every  inch  as  heroic  as  the  man — and  Don 
Jeronimo  was  fearless  to  a  fault — there  is  a  limit  to  what 
mortals  can  endure,  and  after  wandering  aimlessly  for  a  little 
while  longer  they  were  compelled  to  surrender  at  discretion. 

They  were  taken  captive  to  Juchitan  where  for  a  time 
things  looked  black,  but  were  eventually  through  the  aid  of 
native  friends  set  at  liberty  and  permitted  to  leave  the  country. 
This,  with  varying  details,  is  the  story  of  scores  of  Gringoes 
who  fled  from  Mexico  while  the  revolution  was  in  full  flood. 

Adversity  could  not  long  deter  people  of  the  Mahoney 
stamp.  Mrs.  Mahoney  and  her  sister  were,  I  believe,  the  first 
American  women  to  return  to  southern  Mexico  after  the 
revolution  had  spent  itself,  and  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting 
them  at  Salina  Cruz  in  the  spring  of  1918.  A  few  weeks  later 
Don  Jeronimo  himself  appeared  upon  the  scene. 

But  it  is  time  we  returned  to  the  subject  of  transportation 
conditions  on  the  Isthmus.  At  the  present  time  southern 


144  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Mexico  is  practically  isolated  from  the  remainder  of  the  repub- 
lic. There  is  a  line  (the  Vera  Cruz  al  Istmo)  running  from 
Vera  Cruz  to  a  point  of  connection  with  the  Tehuantepec 
National  at  Santa  Lucrecia,  but  this  road  was  practically  use- 
less at  times  because  of  the  lawless  condition  of  the  country 
through  which  it  passed.  The  district  was  infested  by  robber 
bands.  Trains  were  frequently  stopped,  the  escort  shot  to  a 
man,  women  passengers  violated,  and  the  cars  burned  or  dyna- 
mited ;  after  which  the  bandits  helped  themselves  to  such  of  the 
freight  as  struck  their  fancy,  and  carried  off  the  most  promis- 
ing male  pasengers  to  be  held  for  ransom. 

Under  such  conditions  it  is  hardly  to  be  wondered  at  that 
the  trip  was  made  but  once  a  week  or  such  a  matter,  when  six 
or  seven  trains  proceeded  together  under  a  combined  escort  of 
sufficient  size  to  insure  safety. 

I  took  this  route  upon  the  occasion  of  my  first  coming  to 
Mexico.  The  trip  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Salina  Cruz  (about  300 
miles)  consumed  three  days,  with  stops  for  the  night  at 
Tierra  Blanca  and  Santa  Lucrecia.  Fortunately  I  rode  with 
the  army  paymaster  and  we  had  an  escort  of  a  hundred  men. 
Evidently  the  right  of  way  had  not  been  cleared  nor  the  road- 
bed repaired  for  years.  For  a  great  part  of  the  way  we 
plunged  through  forests,  the  boughs  of  the  trees  sweeping  the 
sides  of  the  cars  and  the  train  threatening  to  jump  the  track 
at  every  turn.  Our  enjoyment  of  the  trip  was  still  further 
heightened  by  the  goodly  array  which  greeted  our  eyes  of  dead 
bandits  hanging  from  trees  and  telegraph  poles,  their  weather- 
ed appearance  indicating  that  they  had  been  hanging  there 
for  a  long  period  of  time. 

But  I  would  not  have  the  reader  form  an  unjust  opinion 
of  this  region.  In  times  of  peace  it  is  an  earthly  para- 
dise. Everywhere  from  Tierra  Blanca  to  Santa  Lucrecia,  and 


TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS  145 

even  up  on  the  Coatzacoalcos  valley  to  Ubero  and  beyond,  the 
soil  was  of  the  deepest  black  and  the  vegetation  of  the  bright- 
est green  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  it  was  mid-winter 
when  I  made  the  trip.  Sometimes  we  passed  through  tropical 
jungles,  but  oftener  through  mile  on  mile  of  glorious  pasture- 
land,  studded  here  and  there  with  clumps  of  majestic  trees.  I 
have  never  beneath  the  sun  beheld  so  beautiful  a  land.  Here 
American  planters  had  dwelt  in  splendor  only  a  few  years 
back,  many  of  them  having  two  plantations,  one  of  them  in 
the  United  States  where  they  spent  the  summer  and  the  other 
in  Mexico  where  they  made  their  winter  home — an  ideal  ar- 
rangement. But  four  years  before  they  had  fled  the  country 
and  ruin  had  taken  possession  of  the  land. 

At  Tierra  Blanca  and  Santa  Lucrecia  where  we  stopped 
for  the  night  there  were  only  the  most  miserable  excuses  for 
hotels,  nor  were  there  en  route  any  accommodations  whatever 
for  securing  meals  at  midday.  Having  failed  to  provide  our- 
selves with  lunch  baskets  before  leaving  Vera  Cruz,  we  were 
compelled  to  satisfy  our  hunger  as  best  we  might  from  the 
fragrant  assortment  of  Indian  delicacies  offered  by  ragged 
urchins  at  the  car  windows.  Along  that  route  the  towns,  and 
even  the  station  houses  for  the  most  part,  had  been  burned  by 
the  outlaws,  and  the  country  had  reverted  to  nature. 

Finally  we  made  the  upper  reaches  of  the  Coatzacoalcos, 
surmounted  the  heights  of  the  divide,  and  began  the  descent 
through  the  cities  of  the  Pacific  plain.  After  the  nightmare 
country  through  which  we  had  passed  our  relief  may  be  con- 
ceived, as  we  entered  the  peaceful  cities  of  the  plain  and  beheld 
the  gay  Tehuanas  come  flocking  from  all  sides  like  great  but- 
terflies to  the  car  windows,  holding  aloft  great  baskets  heaped 
with  every  description  of  luscious  tropical  fruits,  and  crying 
"Compra,  Compra — Buy,  buy." 


146  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

The  Pan-American,  as  I  have  stated,  runs  from  San 
Geronimo  to  Mariscal  on  the  Guatemalan  border.  The  line 
formerly  connected  with  the  Guatemalan  railway  system,  thus 
permitting  of  through  transportation  from  Vera  Cruz  to 
Guatemala  City;  but  the  railroad  bridge  at  the  frontier  was 
destroyed  and  a  couple  of  miles  of  track  torn  up  on  the  Guate- 
malan side,  thus  practically  eliminating  land  traffic  between 
Mexico  and  Guatemala.  Goods  intended  for  Guatemala  then 
had  to  be  shipped  to  Salina  Cruz,  and  thence  by  sea  to  Cham- 
perico  or  San  Jose. 

Tapachula  is  the  last  city  of  importance  on  this  line  as 
one  goes  toward  Guatemala.  Daily  trains  run  between  San 
Geronimo  and  Tapachula ;  but  on  the  link  between  Tapachula 
and  Mariscal  there  is  but  one  train  a  week,  on  Sunday.  A 
branch  line  13  miles  long  has  recently  been  constructed,  con- 
necting the  important  commercial  center  of  Tonala  with 
Puerto  Arista  on  the  Pacific.  This  will  perhaps  in  time  result 
in  the  diversion  of  much  traffic  from  the  Chiapas  plateau  to 
the  new  port,  traffic  which  now  reaches  ship's  side  at  Salina 
Cruz. 

Back  of  Tonala  and  Jalisco  (Ariaga),  important  towns 
on  the  Pan  American,  lies  the  beautiful  plateau  of  Chiapas. 
Tuxtla  Gutierrez,  San  Cristobal  de  Las  Casas,  and  Comitan 
are  its  principal  cities.  This  plateau  enjoys  an  exceptional 
climate*  and  abounds  in  natural  wealth,  but  the  bordering 
range  facing  the  Pacific  is  precipitous  and  the  engineering 
difficulties  encountered  have  so  far  prevented  the  construction 
of  a  branch  from  the  Pan  American  to  the  cities  of  the  plateau. 
These  difficulties  are,  however,  far  from  insuperable,  and 

*In  parts  the  Chiapas  plateau  is  so  cool  that  an  inferior  sort  of  rye 
is  raised  by  the  natives;  which  sells  readily  among  the  German  colonists 
of  Soconusco. 


TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS  147 

within  a  few  years  this  rich  region  will  be  opened  up  to  world 
traffic. 

The  Chiapas  plateau  was  then  completely  isolated. 
Formerly  communication  was  maintained  by  an  automobile 
stage  running  between  Jalisco  and  Tuxtla  Gutierrez ;  but  this 
had  been  discontinued  and  at  the  time  when  I  was  on  the  Isth- 
mus the  sole  means  of  communication  was  by  caravan.  Once  in 
two  weeks  a  caravan  of  a  hundred  or  more  carts  left  Jalisco, 
under  heavy  escort,  for  Tuxtla  Gutierrez.  The  mountains  of 
Chiapas  were  alive  with  bandits  and  on  more  than  one  occa- 
sion the  escort  was  dispersed  and  the  caravan  plundered. 

Tonala  with  a  population  in  the  neighborhood  of  12,000 
is  the  principal  city  of  southwestern  Chiapas.  Situated  mid- 
way between  the  semi-arid  plains  of  Tehuantepec  and  the 
water-soaked  Soconuscan  littoral,  it  enjoys  a  moderate  rain- 
fall and  with  the  final  completion  of  the  branch  railroad  to 
Puerto  Arista  is  destined  to  become  a  place  of  commercial 
importance.  Speaking  of  Tonala  reminds  me  of  a  little  inci- 
dent which  I  can  not  refrain  from  recording. 

There  lived  in  this  place  a  gentleman  of  the  most  amiable 
parts  who  possessed  extensive  property  interests  eastward 
along  the  line  toward  Soconusco.  Now  it  so  befell  that  upon  a 
certain  day  of  the  days  he  had  occasion  to  visit  his  properties. 
Upon  his  return,  and  while  still  seven  miles  out  from  Tonala, 
he  was  beset  by  a  band  of  outlaws  who  not  only  relieved  him 
of  his  ready  cash  but  also  compelled  him  to  disrobe,  appropriat- 
ing his  clothing  and  leaving  him  as  naked  as  a  newborn  babe. 

Whereupon  Don  Alfredo — for  by  such  appellation  was 
he  commonly  known — set  up  a  most  piteous  cry,  representing 
to  the  bandits  that  it  would  be  impossible  for  him,  a  man  who 
had  always  gone  about  well  dressed  and  shod,  to  make  a  jour- 
ney of  seven  miles  in  his  then  nude  condition.  Finally  the 


148  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

heart  of  the  bandit  chief  was  melted  by  his  words  and  he 
ordered  that  Don  Alfredo's  undershirt  and  shoes  be  returned 
to  him,  and  thus  attired  the  latter  made  the  return  trip  to 
Tonala.  History  telleth  not  by  what  ruse  he  succeeded  in  en- 
tering the  city  without  being  seen  of  the  people,  but  I  am 
certain  he  must  have  effected  the  seemingly  impossible  for 
Don  Alfredo  was  ever  a  most  modest  man. 

I  trust  no  one  will  question  my  veracity  in  recording  this 
incident.  It  may  seem  incredible  to  one  unacquainted  with 
local  conditions,  but  happenings  such  as  this  were  by  no  means 
uncommon  during  the  Mexican  revolution.  The  success  of  a 
bandit  attack  was  frequently  measured  by  the  extent  to  which 
it  enabled  the  victors  to  replenish  their  wardrobes,  and  it  was 
not  uncommon  for  a  band  of  these  gentry  to  strip  all  the  able- 
bodied  males  of  a  village  which  they  might  chance  to  loot. 

In  former  days  there  was  considerable  river  traffic  on 
the  Coatzacoalcos  and  its  principal  tributaries.  Ocean-going 
ships  ascended  the  river  to  Minatitlan,  and  many  of  the  Amer- 
ican plantations  situated  on  its  banks  possessed  steam  launches 
by  which  the  produce  of  the  plantations  was  conveyed  to  rail- 
road connections  at  Santa  Lucrecia  or  Minatitlan.  At  that  time 
there  was  to  my  knowledge  but  one  launch  in  use.  This  belong- 
ed to  the  Oaxaquena  Plantation  Company  and  plied  between 
the  plantation  of  that  company  and  Santa  Lucrecia.  Tank 
steamers  still  ran  between  the  oil  wells  of  the  Pearson  interests 
at  Tuxpan  Bar  and  its  oil  refinery  at  Minatitlan,  and  small 
boats  plied  up  and  down  the  river  daily  between  Minatitlan 
and  Puerto  Mexico ;  but  vessels  in  the  foreign  trade  no  longer 
ascended  the  river  to  Minatitlan.  Minatitlan  is  an  ancient 
city  destined  to  be  eclipsed  by  the  newer  and  more  convenient 
port  of  Puerto  Mexico.  While  this  is  true,  there  will  in  time 


The  Drv  Dock  at  Salina  Cruz,  the  Largest  on  the  Mexican  West  Coast 


Mammoth  Electric  Cranes  on  the  Wharf  Make  the  Salina  Cruz  Harbor  Economical 


TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS  149 

be  an  extensive  river  traffic  on  the  Coatzacoalcos  as  far  up  as 
Santa  Lucrecia  and  perhaps  considerably  beyond. 

A  word  as  to  the  primitive  river  traffic  of  the  Indians  may 
not  be  amiss.  North  of  the  Jumuapa  or  La  Puerta  River  the 
wagon  roads  are,  on  account  of  the  mud  and  water,  but  little 
used,  canoe  navigation  there  taking  their  place.  These  canoes 
are  made  from  a  single  stick  of  cedar  or  mahogany  and  are  of 
all  dimensions,  from  the  light  traveling-canoe,  accommodating 
two  passengers,  to  great  freighting-canoes  carrying  six  tons 
of  cargo  and  a  half-dozen  pasengers.  The  stern  of  the  freight- 
ing-canoe  is  roofed  over  to  form  accommodations  for  the  pas- 
sengers. The  crew  is  composed  of  three  persons ;  a  patron  or 
captain  who,  seated  in  the  stern,  steers  the  boat  with  a  huge 
paddle  and  directs  the  movements  of  the  others,  and  two 
palenqueros  who  push  the  craft  with  long  poles.  Standing  in 
the  bow  the  latter  plant  their  poles  on  the  river  bed  or  against 
some  object  on  the  banks  of  the  stream,  and  then  propel  the 
canoe  forward,  walking  aft  until  they  reach  the  stern  of  the 
vessel,  when  they  withdraw  their  poles,  pass  again  to  the  bow, 
and  repeat  the  operation. 

When  ascending  the  river  the  boat  is  kept  within  arm's 
length  of  the  bank,  and  fifteen  miles  with  a  heavily  loaded 
canoe  or  thirty  miles  with  a  light  traveling-canoe  is  accounted 
a  good  day's  work.  In  descending  the  stream,  paddles  are 
used,  the  canoe  is  kept  to  the  center  of  the  stream  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  the  current,  and  fifty  miles  is  easily  accomplished 
between  daylight  and  set  of  sun.  At  night  the  canoe  is  securely 
moored  and  all  hands  sleep  ashore,  a  precaution  rendered 
necessary  by  the  fact  that  the  rivers  are  infested  by  alligators. 

On  the  upper  reaches  of  the  rivers,  where  the  stream  is 
interrupted  by  rapids,  navigation  is  effected  by  means  of  the 


150  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

balsa,  which  is  constructed  of  three  unhewn  logs  of  palo- 
mulato,  an  extremely  light  wood,  each  about  twelve  feet  in 
length  by  eight  inches  in  diameter,  fastened  together  by  wood- 
en pins.  The  balsa  carries  two  or  three  persons  and  draws 
less  than  six  inches  of  water.  Being  very  light  they  are  easily 
carried  by  the  Indians  on  their  shoulders  at  such  portages  as 
are  necessitated  by  the  rapids. 

"The  novelty  of  this  mode  of  travel,  the  dense  over-hang- 
ing tropical  vegetation  of  the  river  banks,  the  beautiful  creep- 
ers and  hanging  vines,  the  monarchs  of  the  jungle  covered 
with  a  profusion  of  parasites  and  epiphytes,  the  long  lanes  of 
feathery  hymbal  and  green  camolote,  forming  here  and  there 
trim  borders  to  the  river  and  looking  like  well-kept  hedges, 
the  numerous  flocks  of  screaming  parrots,  the  monkeys  chat- 
tering in  the  trees,  and  the  water-fowl,  in  almost  infinite  num- 
ber and  variety,  lining  the  beaches  and  wading  in  the  shallow 
waters,  all  combined  to  make  the  ascent  of  the  rivers,  as  we 
went  slowly  along,  day  by  day,  exceedingly  interesting  and 
enjoyable."* 

The  rivers  of  the  Pacific  coast  are  unnavigable,  but  there 
is  a  waterway  through  the  great  lagoons  which  should  in  time 
form  quite  a  channel  of  commerce.  The  four  great  lagoons  of 
the  Pacific  plain  of  the  Isthmus  are  connected  at  their  eastern 
extremity  with  a  series  of  esteros  or  lagoons  which  border  the 
seacoast  almost  to  Tapachula,  a  distance  of  nearly  250  miles. 
Formerly  the  passages  between  these  lagoons  were  kept  open 
by  the  government,  so  as  to  permit  of  the  passage  of  boats,  but 
this  work  has  been  neglected  during  these  latter  years  and 
some  of  the  passages  have  become  choked  up;  a  condition  of 
things  which  may,  however,  be  easily  remedied.  When  this  is 
done  the  way  will  be  open,  if  capital  can  be  secured,  for  the 
establishment  of  a  regular  line  of  steamboats  plying  between 
*Report  of  the  Shufeldt  Expedition,  p.  123. 


TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS  151 

the  western  end  of  the  Upper  Lagoon  and  some  point  on  the 
Soconuscan  shore. 

Such  a  line  would  parallel  the  Pan-American  Railroad; 
but  this  would  not  prevent  the  boat  line  from  securing  abund- 
ant traffic,  for  the  Pan-American  for  a  great  portion  of  the 
way  runs  many  miles  back  from  the  line  of  lagoons.  Only  at 
Mapastepec,  I  believe,  would  the  railroad  and  boat  line  ap- 
proach very  closely.  There  is  an  extensive  territory  tributary 
to  these  lagoons  and  possibilities  for  the  development  of  fifty 
paying  lake  ports. 

When  we  consider  that  there  are  no  railroads  in  all  this 
extended  territory,  from  the  Gulf  to  the  Pacific  and  from  the 
Mountains  of  Oaxaca  to  the  Guatemalan  border,  save  the  two 
we  have  mentioned,  and  no  branch  lines  except  the  lines  to 
Tierra  Blanca  and  San  Juan  Evangelista,  the  little  five-mile 
spur  from  Carmen  on  the  Tehuantepec  railroad  to  Minatitlan, 
and  the  branch  of  the  Pan  American  to  Puerto  Arista,  we  can 
form  some  conception  of  transportation  difficulties  on  the 
Isthmus.  Nor  can  this  country  be  fully  opened  up  until  branch 
lines  are  constructed  to  points  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Coat- 
zacoalcos,  to  the  cities  of  the  Chiapas  plateau,  and  up  the 
great  valley  of  the  Tehuantepec  river.  At  present,  in  the  ab- 
sence of  suitable  transportation  facilities  all  produce  intended 
for  export  must  be  transported,  often  over  many  weary  miles 
of  rocky  mountain  trail,  by  lumbering  ox-cart  or  by  pack  mule ; 
a  condition  which  absolutely  precludes  development. 

The  wagon  roads  on  the  Pacific  plains  are  very  good, 
considering  that  they  exist  for  the  most  part  as  nature  made 
them.  Automobiles  would  be  impossible  on  these  roads,  but 
they  are  passable  for  the  rude  two-wheeled  carts  of  the  coun- 
try. There  is  not  enough  sand  in  them  to  render  hauling  dif- 
ficult, but  in  the  dry  season  they  are  very  hot  and  dusty.  There 


152  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

are  no  bridges  of  any  kind  for  wagon  traffic  and  the  streams 
must  be  forded,  but  as  they  are  broad  and  shallow  this  is 
readily  done,  except  occasionally  for  a  few  days  in  summer 
when  they  are  in  flood.  The  lay  of  the  land  the  nature  of  the 
soil  are  such  that  excellent  highways  may  be  constructed  at 
very  little  expense. 

The  postal  service  of  Mexico  is  well  developed  and  every 
town  of  any  importance  has  a  well  equipped  post  office.  All 
letters  received  are  entered  on  a  typewritten  list,  which  is 
posted  daily;  a  peculiar  device  which  has  its  advantages.  A 
regular  system  of  registering  letters  exists  and  this  service 
gives  general  satisfaction.  Domestic  and  foreign  postal  orders 
are  sold,  but  for  some  reason  must  be  purchased  between  10 
a.  m.  and  12  m.,  a  rule  which  hardly  seems  in  the  public  in- 
terest. The  republic  of  Mexico  is  divided  into  states,  and  in 
mailing  letters  to  that  country  the  name  of  the  state  as  well 
as  of  the  city  of  destination  should  always  be  given. 

The  telegraph  lines  are  run  as  a  branch  of  the  federal 
government  and  are  known  as  the  Mexican  National  Tele- 
graphs. All  towns  of  importance  may  be  reached  by  telegraph. 
The  service  leaves  much  to  be  desired  at  the  present  time, 
largely  because  of  the  great  number  of  military  messages 
passing  over  the  lines,  which  of  course  have  the  right  of  way. 
Because  of  this,  one  frequently  receives  a  message  by  wire 
several  days  subsequent  to  receipt  of  the  confirmation  copy 
by  mail.  Messages  should  always  be  sent  in  Spanish;  other- 
wise they  are  apt  to  reach  destination  in  so  garbled  a  condition 
as  to  be  utterly  undecipherable. 

The  Central  and  South  American  Telegraph  Company 
with  headquarters  at  64  Broad  St.,  New  York,  has  offices  at 
Mexico  City,  Vera  Cruz,  Puerto  Mexico,  and  Salina  Cruz.  Its 


TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS  153 

lines  from  Galveston,  Texas,  to  Pacific  coast  Central  and  South 
American  ports  cross  the  Isthmus  from  Puerto  Mexico  to 
Salina  Cruz.  There  are  well-equipped  stations  at  these  points 
which  give  an  excellent  cable  service  to  all  ports  of  the  world. 
This  service  makes  Salina  Cruz  the  best  port  of  call  for  war- 
ships on  the  west  coast  of  Mexico. 

None  of  the  cities  of  southern  Mexico  are  equipped  with 
public  telephone  service. 

It  is  a  saying  in  the  West  that  no  description  of  a  place 
is  complete  unless  its  hotels  are  included.  The  hotel  is  the 
caravanserai  of  the  Occident,  and  especially  is  this  true  of 
Mexico.  For  the  Mexican  hotel  like  the  caravanserai  Is  con- 
structed about  a  court,  and  does  not  at  all  resemble  the  hotel 
of  the  United  States  or  northwestern  Europe. 

Salina  Cruz  had  three  hotels,  not  to  mention  the  hostelry 
which  that  prime  spirit,  Don  Pedro  Guasti,  was  just  about 
completing  at  the  time  of  my  departure.  Now  the  best  of  these 
to  my  way  of  thinking  was  the  Hotel  Salina  Cruz ;  and  here  I 
abode  while  on  the  Isthmus.  It  was  under  the  management 
of  those  all-around  goodfellows,  Don  Pepe  and  Don  Poncho, 
and  was  conducted  in  true  Mexican  style. 

The  hotel  was  constructed  about  a  court  or  patio  upon 
which  opened  the  rooms  of  the  guests.  It  was  the  heart  of 
the  town,  for  there  foregathered  travelers  from  all  southern 
Mexico,  merchants  from  far  Chiapas,  Spaniards  from  Aca- 
pulco,  brightly  dressed  Tehuanas  from  the  neighboring  towns, 
charming  Mexican  ladies  from  the  plateau,  lank  Gringos,  Chi- 
nese, Syrian,  army  officers,  a  motley  crew ;  and  for  those  who 
loved  conviviality  there  was  a  cantina  to  one  side  with  pool 
tables  and  an  abundance  of  choice  liquors  just  in  from  San 
Francisco.  But  as  Don  Poncho  was  accustomed  to  say :  "You 


154  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

are  in  your  own  house."  There  was  room  for  all,  each  to  fol- 
low his  own  bent,  and  the  philosopher  might  sit  under  the  col- 
lonade  which  encircled  the  patio,  and  undisturbed  smoke  the 
weed  as  he  pondered  upon  the  scene  before  him. 

The  conventional  "office"  of  European  hotels,  with  its 
desk  and  writing  tables  for  the  traveling  public,  is  lacking. 
Each  guest  keeps  to  his  own  room,  which  is  his  office  for  the 
time  being,  and  there  he  does  his  writing.  Of  course  he  carries 
a  typewriter  with  him.  The  hotel  takes  no  newspapers ;  people 
are  supposed  to  purchase  their  own  periodicals.  Nor  is  there 
any  telephone  in  the  hotel — a  great  blessing. 

In  the  bedrooms  a  rug  is  placed,  not  on  the  floor  at  the 
side  of  the  bed,  but  over  the  counterpane  at  the  foot  of  the 
bed.  A  singular  custom,  but  easily  explained ;  it  is  to  protect 
the  counterpane  from  the  guest's  boots  when  he  lies  down  for 
his  midday  siesta. 

Meals  are  served  three  times  a  day  at  the  usual  hours. 
From  the  foreigner's  point  of  view  the  bill  of  fare  cannot  be  de- 
scribed as  excellent,  but  it  is  the  business  of  one  who  goes 
to  Mexico  to  conform  to  Mexican  ideas  in  such  matters.  Hot, 
highly  spiced  dishes  are  the  rule.  The  Mexican  has  a  great 
liking  for  chili  pepper;  sometimes  in  the  form  of  enchiladas 
(hashed  meat  wrapped  up  in  a  corn-meal  wafer  dipped  in 
chili  sauce  and  garnished  with  grated  onion)  and  again  in  the 
shape  of  stuffed  chili  peppers.  Beware  of  the  latter.  Upon 
one  occasion  I  had  the  temerity  to  eat  an  entire  chili  pepper. 
It  straightway  burned  a  hole  in  the  lining  of  my  stomach  and 
for  the  next  two  days  I  was  sick  abed. 

But  despite  the  peculiarities  of  the  Mexican  menu  it  is 
wholesome,  more  wholesome  than  that  of  the  Yankees  who  in- 
habit the  region  to  the  north;  no  puddings  and  pastry  to  de- 
stroy the  digestion,  but  plenty  of  meat  dishes,  corn  bread,  and 


TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS  155 

black  beans.  I  should  not  neglect  to  state  that  the  Mexican 
must  have  his  black  beans.  They  are  the  sine  qua  non  without 
which,  according  to  his  ideas,  a  meal  cannot  be  eaten.  He 
grows  black  in  the  face  if  they  are  not  on  the  table.  There 
are  other  beans  in  Mexico,  red  beans  and  white  beans,  which 
taste  much  better.  Frequently  all  three  sorts  are  on  the  table, 
and  then  he  may  eat  all  three  for  he  is  a  great  lover  of  beans ; 
but  in  any  event  Mr.  Mexican  must  have  his  black  beans. 

The  national  drink  at  table  is  coffee,  and  Mexican  coffee 
as  it  is  served  is  autrocious;  but  this  is  evidently  from  the 
method  of  preparation,  for  the  Mexican  berry  has  a  deservedly 
high  reputation  in  the  world's  markets.  The  beverage  is 
simply  spoiled  in  the  making;  but  again  I  warn  you,  should 
you  go  to  Mexico,  make  no  objections,  for  the  Mexican  is  fully 
satisfied  that  coffee  as  he  prepares  it  is  the  only  coffee  fit  to 
drink.  Chocolate  (spiced  with  cinnamon)  is  also  drunk;  but 
tea,  never. 

The  service  obtainable  at  the  average  Mexican  hotel  seems 
nothing  short  of  miraculous  when  one  considers  the  personnel. 
The  hotel  is  manned,  according  to  size,  by  from  half  a  dozen 
to  a  dozen  barefoot  Indian  men  (mozos)  and  as  many  women. 
The  men  not  only  act  as  doorkeepers,  guarding  the  place  against 
a  possible  attack  by  bandits  and  running  errands  for  the  man- 
agement, but  also  act  in  the  capacity  of  chambermaids.  When 
unemployed,  and  especially  during  the  warmer  hours  of  the 
day,  they  lay  at  full  length  slumbering  on  the  tiled  floor  of  the 
hotel  porch ;  nor  does  this  attitude  disturb  anyone  in  that  easy- 
going land. 

The  waiters,  like  the  "chambermaids,"  are  of  the  male 
sex  and  of  all  exasperating  creatures  these  Indian  waiters 
are  the  worst.  Their  only  merit  is  that  they  expect  no  tips, 
that  accursed  European  custom  never  having  taken  root  in 


156  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

that  part  of  the  world.  But  a  more  brainless  individual  than 
the  average  peon  waiter  it  would  be  hard  to  find.  If  sent  out 
for  a  dish  he  invariably  breaks  it,  or  brings  you  the  wrong 
dish,  or  worst  of  all,  forgets  his  errand  ere  he  reaches  the 
kitchen  and  returns  after  fifteen  minutes  to  take  your  order 
afresh. 

One  of  his  most  common  sins  of  omission  is  that  of  failing 
to  bring  the  black  beans,  a  delinquency  readily  forgiven  by  the 
foreigner  who  cares  little  for  them,  but  viewed  as  a  mortal  sin 
by  the  Mexican  who  loves  black  beans  as  the  apple  of  his  eye. 
It  is  actually  recorded  that  once  upon  a  time  a  Mexican  gen- 
tleman grew  so  enraged  at  a  waiter  who  neglected  to  bring 
him  his  beans  that  he  drew  his  pistol  and  shot  the  offender 
through  the  hand.  At  the  trial  which  followed  the  gentleman 
was  acquitted  upon  the  ground  that  the  waiter's  conduct  was 
an  aggravating  circumstance  calculated  to  drive  any  respect- 
able hotel  guest  to  acts  of  desperation. 

One  of  the  female  servants  generally  supervises  the 
"chambermaids'*  in  the  performance  of  their  duties.  And 
here  I  take  occasion  to  state  that  the  general  run  of  Mexican 
hotels  are  unobjectionable  from  the  standpoint  of  cleanliness. 
The  bedrooms  are  uniformly  neat  and  cleanly  and  the  bed 
linen  spotless.  Iron  bedsteads  are  in  general  use  and  thanks 
to  them  and  the  untiring  efforts  of  the  personnel  that  bete 
noire,  the  bed  bug,  is  little  in  evidence.  The  meals  are  clean 
and  appetizing,  and  best  of  all  the  guest  need  never  concern 
himself  with  keys  and  the  locking  of  doors,  for  the  people  of 
southern  Mexico  are  still  in  a  state  so  primitive  that  they  do 
not  know  what  it  means  to  steal.  There  are  of  course  some 
mortals  so  refined  that  any  hotel  not  equipped  with  a  buffet, 
uniformed  lackeys,  and  individual  baths — in  the  Mexican  hotel 
everyone  uses  the  public  shower  bath — is  to  them  no  hotel  at 


The  Market  Building  at  San  Geronimo 


tt!e  Tehuanas  Accompanied  by  One  of  the  Lords  of  Creation^-Who  Lacks  His  Pa 


TRANSPORTATION  AND  BANDITS  157 

all ;  but  such  people  had  best  remain  at  home,  they  are  not  born 
to  travel  in  Mexico  or  any  other  country. 

What  Mexican  lady  would  think  of  supervising  her  own 
kitchen?  The  kitchen  is  in  charge  of  a  Tehuana  cook  and 
female  assistants  drawn  from  the  personnel  of  the  house,  and 
considering  the  primitive  cooking  appliances  at  their  disposal 
some  of  these  Indian  women  deserve  the  highest  commenda- 
tion for  their  skill  in  the  culinary  art.  Iron  stoves  and  steel 
ranges  are  but  little  used  in  Mexico.  Three  stones  arranged 
in  a  triangular  shape  to  support  a  pot,  griddle,  or  comal,  or 
a  crude  earthenware  stove  made  on  the  same  lines,  suffices 
for  the  poor,  and  even  the  upper  classes  and  most  of  the  hotels 
make  shift  to  get  along  with  simple  brick  ranges  provided  with 
pot  holes  and  fire  places.  Only  in  a  few  of  the  better  estab- 
lishments are  steel  ranges  to  be  found. 

The  upper  classes  consume  more  or  less  white  bread  which 
never,  however,  appears  in  the  form  of  loaves,  but  always 
in  the  little  buns  (panes)  characteristic  of  Latin  America. 
This  bread  is  seldom  baked  at  home  but  is  obtained  from  pro- 
fessional bakers  who  bake  their  stock  in  large  open-air  ovens. 

A  meal  at  a  Mexican  hotel  is  flavored  with  the  sauce  of 
politeness.  When  a  gentleman  seats  himself  or  arises  from 
the  table  he  invariably  says  "Con  permiso"  (With  your  per- 
mission) ,  and  when  the  landlord  comes  to  the  table  he  salutes 
the  guests  with  a  "con  povecho,  Sefiores,"  as  much  as  to  say, 
"May  you  dine  with  profit,  gentlemen." 

If  you  are  making  a  lengthy  stay  at  a  Mexican  hotel  you 
must  not  expect  your  bill  at  the  end  of  the  month.  The  land- 
lord is  in  no  hurry  about  such  matters;  he  trusts  to  your 
honor,  and  it  may  be  necessary  to  prompt  him  several  times 
before  its  production.  And  you  may  depend  upon  it,  he  will 
not  permit  you  to  outdo  him  in  politeness  or  generosity.  The 


158  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Mexican  is  above  all  things  open-handed  and  can  be  depended 
upon  to  always  return  a  favor. 

Speaking  of  trusting  to  one's  honor  reminds  me  of  a  little 
incident  which  occurred  just  before  I  left  Salina  Cruz,  which 
marks  the  Mexican's  high  sense  of  honor  and  innate  delicacy. 
One  of  the  leading  merchants  of  the  place  handed  me  four 
hundred  dollars  in  cash  and  asked  me  to  deliver  it  at  a  certain 
address  in  San  Francisco,  California.  "Ah,"  I  said,  "but  you 
will  wish  a  receipt  for  the  money."  "That  does  not  matter/' 
he  replied,  "it  is  quite  unnecessary." 

Now  many  would  not  mark  such  an  incident  but  I,  since 
by  the  permission  of  Allah  it  was  my  lot  to  travel  in  that  land, 
have  thought  it  worthy  of  note. 


CHAPTER  X. 
INDUSTRIES  AND  OPPORTUNITIES  FOR  INVESTMENT 

IN  the  following  pages  we  shall  treat  of  the  commerce  and 
industries,  present  and  potential,  of  the  Isthmus  of  Te- 
huan tepee.  This  subject,  of  special  interest  to  the  con- 
stantly increasing  numbers  of  Europeans  and  Americans  who 
are  seeking  opportunities  for  investment  in  Mexico — for  which 
reason  we  have  made  this  our  longest  chapter — may  prove  of 
minor  interest  to  the  general  reader,  to  whom  statistics  of  pro- 
duction and  trade  are  generally  more  or  less  distasteful.  If 
our  reader  be  of  this  class  we  would  advise  that  he  omit  this 
chapter,  turning  at  once  to  chapter  eleven,  wherein  is  recorded 
the  rise  of  that  nobles  of  all  Indian  races,  the  Zapotecs. 

It  was  the  policy  of  the  government  of  President  Porfirio 
Diaz  to  encourage  by  liberal  concessions  the  investment  of 
foreign  capital,  a  policy  which  secured  hundreds  of  millions 
of  dollars  for  the  development  of  Mexico's  resources.  For- 
eigners flocked  to  the  country  by  the  tens  of  thousands.  To  the 
Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  came  Americans  from  the  republic  to 
the  north.  The  government  was  most  liberal  with  the  new- 
comers and  soon  the  bulk  of  the  land  from  below  Santa  Lu- 
crecia  on  the  north  to  the  pass  of  Chivela  on  the  south  passed 
into  their  possession. 

This  land  was  controlled  by  companies  in  the  United 
States,  each  of  which  had  its  plantation  and  a  resident  man- 
ager on  the  Isthmus.  It  was  an  era  of  wild  speculation  in  Mex- 
ican stocks.  The  idea  in  many  cases  was,  not  so  much  to  con- 
duct a  legitimate  plantation  business,  as  to  empty  the  pockets 

159 


160  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

of  the  gullible  American  public  of  surplus  cash.  Flamboyant 
prospectuses  pictured  the  fortunes  to  be  made  from  rubber, 
coffee,  sugar,  and  tropical  fruits.  Little  show  plantations  of 
a  few  acres  each  were  set  out,  with  driveways  so  arranged 
that  when  prospective  buyers  arrived  they  might  be  driven,  to 
all  appearance,  through  miles  on  miles  of  growing  crops.  By 
such  and  kindred  devices  thousands  of  acres  of  wild  jungle 
were  sold  under  colonization  schemes,  in  which  the  buyers 
reaped  nothing  but  experience  and  taxes. 

Eventually  nearly  all  of  these  companies  failed  and  many 
of  the  investors  lost  their  hard-earned  money.  New  com- 
panies, organized  on  a  more  conservative  basis,  succeeded 
them.  Rubber  had  proven  a  complete  failure  on  the  Coatza- 
coalcos,  and  coffee  was  not  far  behind ;  but  sugar  and  bananas 
were  a  success,  and  to  the  culture  of  these  and  the  extraction 
of  forest  products  the  Americans  on  the  Isthmus  now  settled 
down. 

It  was  a  wonderful  region,  that  Coatzacoalcos  Valley,  the 
nearest  approach  to  an  earthly  paradise  to  be  found  on  the 
continent  of  North  America.  As  Egypt  is  the  child  of  the 
Nile,  so  the  valley  of  the  Coatzacoalcos  is  the  child  of  the  great 
river.  In  one  respect,  especially,  the  Coatzacoalcos  resembles 
the  Nile;  overflowing  its  banks  about  every  seventh  year,  it 
leaves  a  deposit  on  the  fields,  returning  to  the  soil  all  elements 
taken  by  the  crops  and  rendering  the  use  of  fertilizer  un- 
necessary. 

This  river,  the  greatest  in  all  Mexico,  is  about  one-fourth 
mile  wide  at  the  Oaxaquena  Plantation,  fifteen  miles  below 
Santa  Lucrecia,  and  at  Puerto  Mexico,  where  it  enters  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  a  full  mile  in  width.  Ocean-going  vessels  go 
up  some  forty  miles,  beyond  tide  limit,  for  fresh  water.  Mina- 
titlan,  some  thirty  miles  above  Puerto  Mexico,  is  a  regular  port 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     161 

of  call  for  many  ocean  vessels;  while  vessels  of  8  to  10  feet 
draft  can  during  nine  months  of  the  year  ascend  as  far  as 
Santa  Lucrecia. 

In  the  peaceful  days  immediately  before  the  Revolution, 
American  planters  occupied  the  banks  of  the  great  river  from 
a  point  some  thirty  miles  below  Santa  Lucrecia  to  the  river's 
source  in  the  dividing  range.  From  the  northern  limits  of 
the  American  holdings  to  the  Gulf  the  country  was  in  the 
hands  of  the  Pierson  (British)  interests.  The  Pacific  plains 
of  the  Isthmus,  about  Tehuantepec  and  Juchitan,  had  never 
been  invaded  to  any  extent  by  American  enterprise ;  but  from 
Reforma  east  to  the  Guatemalan  border,  along  the  entire  ex- 
tent of  the  Chiapas  littoral,  a  fair  proportion  of  the  planations 
were  American  owned. 

Life  was  exceedingly  pleasant  in  the  old  days  in  the  Amer- 
ican colony  on  the  Coatzacoalcos  and  its  tributaries.  Culti- 
vation was  confined  to  the  sections  in  close  proximity  to  the 
railroad  or  the  river  banks,  but  the  land  was  American  owned 
for  a  distance  of  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  back  from  the 
river  and  road  on  either  hand,  affording  unlimited  opportunity 
for  colonization  and  development.  Each  plantation  had  a 
commodious  plantation  house  embowered  in  flowers,  its  or- 
chard of  tropical  fruits,  its  great  sugar  mill,  and  its  wide  acres 
of  cane.  Its  fields  were  tilled  by  a  busy  host  of  Indian  em- 
ployees, while  their  fellows  were  bringing  mahogany  and 
Spanish  cedar  from  the  neighboring  forests.  Down  at  the 
river  was  the  plantation  pier,  at  whose  side  were  moored  huge 
barges  which  conveyed  the  plantation's  output  to  market  and 
a  trim  little  launch  in  which  the  planter  and  his  family  visited 
the  market  as  business  or  pleasure  impelled.  Such  were  condi- 
tions when  the  planters  fled  the  country  in  1914. 

Four  years  later,  in  1918,  these    American    plantations 


162  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

presented  an  appearance  of  utter  desolation;  cane  mills  and 
distilleries  in  ruins,  the  machinery  rusted  beyond  redemption, 
the  fields  burned  over  or  grown  up  to  jungle,  the  valuable 
timber  stolen.  In  a  few  instances  only,  native  caretakers  con- 
tinued to  run  the  plantation  in  a  small  way,  securing  immunity 
from  attack  by  paying  blackmail  to  the  bandit  chief  of  the 
locality. 

In  this  isolated  region,  far  from  the  center  of  authority 
on  the  plateau,  the  planter,  be  he  foreigner  or  Mexican,  is  in 
times  of  revolution  thrown  on  his  own  resources.  He  may  se- 
cure personal  immunity  by  removing  to  a  garrisoned  town,  but 
this  affords  him  no  protection  in  his  property.  The  bandit 
visits  the  plantation  and  demands  a  monthly  contribution  of 
the  caretaker.  The  planter  may  refuse  to  pay  and  call  upon 
the  government  for  protection.  It  will  avail  him  nothing.  The 
government  does  what  it  can  to  protect  him ;  a  detachment  of 
troops  is  sent  to  the  plantation.  There  is  a  skirmish,  perhaps, 
and  a  bandit  or  two  is  killed.  But  this  is  only  adding  fuel  to  the 
flames,  for  manifestly  the  government  cannot  garrison  every 
plantation.  After  two  or  three  weeks  the  garrison  is  with- 
drawn, for  use  at  some  other  point,  and  the  bandits  immediately 
return  and  wreak  vengeance  by  burning  the  plantation  build- 
ings and  destroying  the  crops. 

Two  factors  have  accounted  for  the  prevalence  of  such 
conditions  during  the  last  few  years;  the  difficulty  of  trans- 
portation between  central  and  southern  Mexico,  and  the  nature 
of  the  country,  which  favors  the  bandit.  As  stated  elsewhere, 
the  Vera  Cruz  al  Isthmo  Railroad,  the  only  line  of  communica- 
tion between  the  central  plateau  and  the  Isthmus,  was  practi- 
cally out  of  commission,  and  the  movement  of  troops  from  the 
center  of  the  republic  consequently  requires  much  time.  On  the 
other  hand  the  country,  sparsely  populated  and  covered  for 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     163 

the  most  part  with  a  scrubby  growth  of  timber,  favors  the 
outlaw.  The  climate  is  mild,  his  horse  finds  abundant  pasture 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and  back  in  the  heart  of  the 
jungle  he  can  make  his  little  clearing  and  raise  his  year's  sup- 
ply of  corn  and  beans  without  fear  of  being  molested.  Driving 
him  to  bay  is  wellnigh  out  of  the  question.  The  woods  are  in- 
tersected by  trails  and  bypaths  running  in  every  direction,  and 
tracing  a  man  is  about  as  promising  as  hunting  for  the  pro- 
verbial needle  in  a  haystack. 

It  is  safe  to  say  that  there  were  not  then  five  hundred 
foreigners  (exclusive  of  Spaniards)  in  all  southern  Mexico. 
I  am  sure  the  number  of  Americans,  men,  women  and  children, 
fell  far  short  of  a  hundred.  But  the  situation  is  not  perma- 
nent. Their  property  was  still  there  and  they  will  return. 

Mexico  will  continue  to  invite  the  foreigner  for  several 
reasons.  For  one  thing,  it  is  a  land  of  great  undeveloped  re- 
sources, resources  which  its  people  lack  the  capital  to  exploit. 
It  is  a  country  in  the  raw  and,  like  all  such  countries,  bristles 
with  opportunities.  Two  great  needs  of  Mexico — industrial 
Mexico — are  men  and  capital.  Not  men  to  labor,  for  the 
country  abounds  in  competent  laborers,  but  men  with  capacity, 
energy,  and  sufficient  executive  ability  to  manage  large  indus- 
trial enterprises. 

But  in  Mexico  the  foreigner  has  an  additional  advantage 
in  the  comparative  absence  of  competition.  This  arises  from 
the  Latin  character.  The  Mexican's  ideals  differ  from  those  of 
the  United  States  or  northwestern  Europe.  He  aspires  to  the 
political,  military,  or  professional  walks  of  life.  To  be  a  gov- 
ernment functionary,  general,  lawyer,  physician,  poet,  artist, 
or  author,  is  the  goal  of  most  Mexicans  of  the  upper  class.  The 
proportion  of  this  class  who  enter  business  is  small  and  that 
field  is,  consequently,  largely  left  to  the  foreigner. 


164  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Again,  the  native  business  man  is  under  a  serious  handi- 
cap as  regards  language,  most  of  the  foreign  trade  being  with 
the  United  States,  Great  Britain,  and  France.  The  English- 
speaking  foreigner  has  the  advantage,  and  here  it  may  be 
stated  that  in  Mexico  the  language  is  spoken  by  Americans, 
British,  Germans,  and  Scandinavians  alike.  These  people  are, 
on  the  other  hand,  often  handicapped  by  inability  to  speak  the 
Spanish  vernacular.  Resident  Frenchmen  and  Italians  almost 
invariably  speak  Spanish  with  the  fluency  of  the  native,  but  it 
is  no  uncommon  thing  to  meet  Englishmen  and  Americans  who 
have  been  in  the  country  for  years,  and  yet  can  scarcely  speak 
a  word  of  the  language. 

Spanish  is  a  beautiful  and  cultured  tongue  in  no  way  in- 
ferior to  English  or  French,  and  he  who  goes  expecting  to 
make  a  success  in  Mexico  should  divest  himself  of  any  feeling 
of  race  superiority  he  may  have  and  set  about  the  acquisition 
of  the  language  of  the  country.  The  road  is  comparatively 
easy.  The  language  is  not  particularly  difficult,  and  no  mat- 
ter how  many  mistakes  you  make  the  Mexican  will  never 
laugh  at  you ;  he  is  far  too  well  bred  for  that.  The  newcomer 
will  make  the  most  rapid  progress  by  giving  some  Mexican 
lessons  in  English,  listening  to  natives  converse  together  for 
at  least  an  hour  daily,  himself  translating  all  Spanish  corre- 
spondence that  comes  to  the  office,  and  by  constantly  reading  a 
good  Spanish  paper.  This  "combined  method'*  is,  I  believe,  the 
only  "royal  road"  to  the  knowledge  of  Spanish.  By  pursuing  it 
consistently,  and  never  under  any  circumstances  reading  a 
newspaper  published  in  English,  the  student  should  by  the 
end  of  a  year  speak  Spanish  with  fair  fluency. 

All  important  correspondence  should  be  conducted  in 
Spanish,  as  Mexican  courts  will  not  admit  in  proof  correspon- 
dence or  documents  written  in  any  other  language. 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     165 

It  would  not  be  fair  to  dismiss  this  subject  without  speak- 
ing of  the  difficulties  which  the  foreign  residents  must  meet. 
The  advantages  are  many;  absence  of  competition,  the  genial 
and  upon  the  whole  healthy  climate,  and  a  native  population 
affable  and  refined  as  far  as  relates  to  the  upper  class,  while 
the  humbler  ranks  are  gentle  and  honest  to  a  degree.  But 
there  are  two  disadvantages.  In  the  first  place,  though  other- 
wise healthy  on  the  Pacific  plains  and  east  at  least  as  far  as 
Tonala,  it  is  exceedingly  hot  for  the  greater  part  of  the  time ; 
while  north  of  the  divide  in  the  great  valley  of  the  Coatza- 
coalcos  the  country  is  more  or  less  malarial.  The  second  draw- 
back is,  of  course,  the  absence  of  schools  for  ones  children. 
Hitherto  the  foreigner  has  been  under  the  necessity  of  making 
frequent  trips  to  the  United  States  to  recuperate  in  health  or 
provide  for  his  children's  education.  But  these  disadvantages 
will,  I  am  satisfied,  be  met  when  any  considerable  number  of 
foreigners  return  to  the  Isthmus.  A  sanitarium  is  then  bound 
to  be  established,  either  at  the  hot  springs  in  the  Pass  of 
Chivela  or  upon  the  higher  plateaux.  Success  may  be  pre- 
dicted for  such  an  enterprise,  which  would  be  patronized  not 
only  by  the  entire  foreign  community  but  also  by  many  Mex- 
icans, for  even  they  find  the  tropical  heat  very  trying. 

A  suitable  high  school  is  also  sure  to  come  as  soon  as  there 
is  sufficient  of  the  foreign  element  to  form  a  nucleus.  Among 
the  Mexicans  there  is  a  growing  desire  to  acquire  a  knowledge 
of  English,  and  even  today  many  persons  (some  of  them  with 
a  very  defective  knowledge  of  English)  earn  a  livelihood  by 
giving  private  lessons.  A  high  school  with  advanced  courses 
in  both  Spanish  and  English  would  be  well  attended  and  have 
the  monopoly  of  higher  education  throughout  southern  Mex- 
ico. Such  a  school  should  be  located  at  San  Geronimo,  Te- 


166  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

huantepec,  or  Salina  Cruz,  and  would  draw  custom  north  as 
far  as  Puerto  Mexico  and  east  to  the  Guatemalan  border. 

Bearing  in  mind  the  undeveloped  state  of  the  country 
and  the  general  absence  of  minerals,  it  is  evident  that  openings 
for  foreign  investment  are  in  the  main  limited  to  agriculture, 
stockraising,  lumbering,  and  manufacture.  In  certain  lines 
the  establishment  of  factories  would  pay.  There  is  but  one 
modern  factory  in  all  that  region,  the  brewery  at  San  Ger- 
onimo.  Small  native  industries  exist,  but  none  which  could 
for  a  moment  compete  with  a  well-equipped  modern  plant.  The 
trouble  lies  not  there,  but  in  securing  a  market  for  the  product. 
It  would  be  necessary  to  begin  operations  on  a  comparatively 
small  scale  unless  the  product  is  to  be  exported,  for  the  pur- 
chasing power  is  not  proportionate  to  the  population.  The 
Indian  consumes  but  little  and  the  market  for  most  manu- 
factured articles  is  limited  to  the  upper  and  middle  classes. 

Among  industries  which  would  pay  I  may  mention  boot 
and  shoe,  furniture,  rope  and  twine,  hat,  soap,  pottery,  broom 
and  brush,  and  sash  and  door  factories,  paper,  saw,  and  grist 
mills,  brick  yards,  fruit  canneries,  tanneries,  ice  and  printing 
plants,*  and  telephone  systems.  The  opportunities  in  some 
of  these  lines  are  touched  upon  in  connection  with  other  mat- 
ters and  may  be  found  by  consulting  the  index. 

Basketry  and  pottery  making  are  native  arts.  Baskets 
of  beautiful  design  are  made  in  nearly  all  parts  of  southern 
Mexico  by  a  large  class  of  natives.  As  a  rule  their  products 
are  offered  for  sale  only  in  the  public  markets,  although  some 
are  exported  by  buyers  who  have  agents  visiting  or  residing 

*In  1918  not  a  single  daily  newspaper  was  published  in  southern 
Mexico  (the  Isthmus  and  Chiapas)  and  only  one  weekly,  a  small  sheet 
printed  at  Puerto  Mexico.  Nor  was  there  a  public  telephone  system  in 
any  of  the  cities.  Up  to  date  of  going  to  press  1922  no  notice  of  change  in 
this  particular  has  been  received. 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     167 

in  the  towns  where  basket  making  is  extensively  carried  on. 
Oaxaca  is  one  of  the  principal  states  in  the  production  of  pot- 
tery, the  Zapotecs  possessing  great  deftness  in  work  of  the 
sort. 

I  know  nothing  of  which  that  land  stands  in  greater  need 
than  banks.  There  is  not  a  bank,  great  or  small,  in  all  south- 
ern Mexico,  except  one  recently  established  at  Salina  Cruz. 
Even  paper  money  has  disappeared;  only  gold  and  silver  are 
in  circulation.  Everyone  having  money  keeps  his  own  strong 
box  or  deposits  his  money  with  some  merchant  having  a  safe. 
The  detriment  to  commerce  may  be  imagined.  Not  only  are 
bank  credits  out  of  the  question,  but  the  business  man  must 
cart  his  coin  about  with  him  wherever  he  goes.  In  more 
"civilized"  countries  under  such  a  system  safe  blowers  would 
Nourish  and  train  robbers  multiply  exceedingly,  and  it  speaks 
well  for  the  honesty  of  the  people  of  that  land  that  safe-blow- 
ing is  unknown  and  that  trains  are  seldom  "held-up."  But 
there  is  a  crying  need  for  banks,  none  the  less,  and  a  great 
opportunity  for  those  houses  which  first  acquire  a  foothold  in 
Tapachula,  Tuxtla  Gutierrez,  Tonala,  San  Geronimo,  Juchitan, 
Tehuantepec,  and  the  other  principal  trade  centers. 

The  region  being  destitute  of  banks,  the  large  merchant 
concerns  perforce  do  a  general  exchange  and  collection  busi- 
ness, acting  as  agents  for  New  York  and  San  Francisco 
houses.  They  also  receive  deposits  but  rarely  pay  interest. 
Deposits  are  not  guaranteed. 

United  States  gold  circulates  at  par,  that  is,  at  the  rate 
of  one  dollar  for  two  pesos.  Exchange  on  the  United  States 
fluctuates.  United  States  silver  and  paper  money  do  not 
circulate. 

Owing  to  the  present  high  price  of  silver  and  the  conse- 
quent disappearance  from  circulation  of  the  national  cur- 
rency, a  new  silver  currency  of  reduced  silver  content  has  been 


168  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

introduced.  Silver  coins  of  the  denomination  of  one  peso, 
fifty  centavos,  and  twenty  centavos  are  in  circulation.  The 
composition  of  these  coins  is  an  alloy  of  720  parts  of  silver  to 
280  of  copper;  in  fact,  the  alloy  is  so  great  as  to  give  them 
quite  a  pinkish  appearance.  They  are  merely  fractional  cur- 
rency, the  standard  being  gold. 

Some  $515,000,000  of  "infalsifieable"  paper  money  was 
issued  by  the  Carranza  regime,  practically  all  of  which  has 
been  retired.  This  money  is  worth  but  a  small  fraction  of  its 
face  value,  and  nearly  all  of  what  is  out  is  in  the  hands  of 
speculators. 

The  Pacific  plains  are  well  suited  to  stock  raising  and  cat- 
tle in  normal  times  are  everywhere  numerous ;  half  starved  in 
the  dry  season,  when  it  is  often  a  mystery  how  they  keep  body 
and  soul  together,  but  in  fairly  good  condition  in  the  summer 
when  grass  is  plentiful.  The  best  herds  are  found  in  the  high- 
lands of  the  divide,  especially  on  the  plains  of  Chivela  and 
Tarif a,  and  along  the  stripes  of  land  which  intervene  between 
the  lagoons  and  the  sea.  A  large  number  of  calves  are  de- 
stroyed by  the  jaguars  and  pumas  every  year.  So  troublesome 
are  these  cats  that  every  ranch  maintains  a  hunter  and  a  pack 
of  dogs  for  the  express  purpose  of  hunting  and  killing  them. 

There  is  still  abundant  range  for  cattle  and  opportunity 
for  the  beginner.  Range  land  may  be  had  for  a  song.  Green 
pasture  exists  throughout  a  great  part  of  the  year,  not  only 
on  the  plains  and  in  the  valleys,  but  often  on  the  mountain 
tops  as  well.  Mountain  pastures  exist  in  many  places.  There 
is  a  beautiful  meadow  on  the  top  of  a  steep  mountain  a  few 
miles  to  the  southwest  of  San  Geronimo,  plainly  discernable 
to  the  traveler  standing  beneath  Mr.  Adamik's  date  palm.  The 
Cerro  Atravesado,  away  to  the  northeast  of  Niltepec,  is  a 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     169 

curious  mountain  engrafted  on  the  Cordilleras  with  its  greatest 
length  at  right  angles  to  their  general  direction.  The  top 
of  this  conspicuous  cerro  is  about  5,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  flat,  and  covered  with  the  richest  of  pasture.  Yes, 
there  is  every  opportunity  here  for  the  newcomer.  When 
well  fed  the  animals  are  of  good  size.  Corn  fodder  is  easily 
raised,  and  by  feeding  a  fair  amount  for  two  or  three  months 
in  the  year  the  best  results  are  obtained. 

The  total  stock  on  the  ranges  is  now  small.  The  consensus 
of  opinion  as  to  the  present  number  of  cattle,  calves,  sheep  and 
goats  in  Mexico  places  it  at  about  25  per  cent  of  the  stocks 
existing  in  1910 ;  and  this  proportion  probably  holds  for  the 
Isthmus  country.  Not  only  have  great  numbers  of  cattle  been 
slaughtered  by  the  revolutionists  for  hides  and  meat,  but  also 
by  the  owners  themselves,  in  the  effort  to  save  them  from 
depredations.  The  number  of  calves  killed  has  been  negligible. 
All  calf  skins  find  a  ready  market  locally  at  as  much  as  25  per 
cent  above  New  York  market  quotations. 

All  the  heavy  hauling  is  done  with  oxen  yoked  to  great 
lumbering  two- wheeled  carts.  These  carts  are  made  entirely 
of  wood  and  do  not  carry  much  more  than  half  the  load  of  a 
good  lumber  wagon.  There  is  great  need  here  for  the  introduc- 
tion of  improved  carts  and  wagons.  The  oxen  are  yoked  by  the 
horns,  a  most  barbarous  practice,  and  driven  with  the  goad. 
Kindness  to  animals  does  not  seem  to  be  one  of  the  Indian 
virtues. 

The  Indians  do  not  salt  their  beef,  but  cure  it  by  cutting 
it  into  long  narrow  strips  like  pieces  of  rope  and  drying  it  in 
the  sun.  Beef  prepared  in  this  manner  is  called  "tasajo." 
Since  it  admits  of  easy  transportation  by  pack  animals  it  is 
much  esteemed  by  exploring  parties,  and  when  thoroughly 
pounded  and  roasted  is  quite  palatable. 


170  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

It  is  a  saying  that  Mexico  is  not  a  butter  country.  There 
was  no  native  butter  to  be  had  at  Salina  Cruz  during  my  so- 
journ there,  and  the  imported  article  cost  a  dollar  gold  a  pound. 
No  one  thought  of  eating  butter,  and  even  at  the  best  hotel 
there  was  no  butter  on  the  table.  I  was  told,  however,  that 
the  Indians  sometimes  make  an  inferior  butter  for  their  own 
use.  The  Indians  are  very  fond  of  cheese,  which  they  make 
in  immense  quantities  from  goats'  milk.  There  seems  to  be 
no  reason  why  dairying  might  not  be  made  a  success  and  the 
country  made  to  produce  all  the  butter  and  cheese  needed 
for  its  own  markets. 

But  little  condensed  milk  is  imported.  An  abundance  of 
goats'  milk  is  always  obtainable,  while  the  supply  of  cows' 
milk  is  sufficient  for  the  upper  classes. 

Hides  form  a  very  important  article  of  export ;  not  merely 
those  of  meat  cattle  but  also  the  hides  of  goats,  which  are  much 
more  numerous.  In  fact,  "No.  1  Oaxaca"  is  the  standard  of 
excellence  in  the  goat-skin  markets  of  the  world.  All  hides 
and  skins  are  exported  in  the  raw,  for  there  are  no  shoe  or 
Harness  factories  in  southern  Mexico.  Tanneries  exist  in  the 
outskirts  of  many  towns  but  they  are  little  Indian  affairs  of 
the  mo*t  primitive  description.  With  the  enormous  numbers 
of  cattle  and  goats  raised,  it  is  evident  that  the  country  affords 
an  excellent  opening  for  the  establishment  of  modern  up-to- 
date  tanneries.  There  is  also  a  demand  for  boot  and  shoe  fac- 
tories, though  the  market  is  limited  at  present  by  the  fact 
that  the  Indian  goes  barefoot  or  wears  sandals  only.  This  con- 
dition will  pass  away  as  the  status  of  the  Indian  is  raised  and 
the  price  of  footwear  lowered  by  the  existence  of  local  fac- 
tories. 

All  the  shoes  worn  by  the  middle  and  upper  classes  are 
of  American  make.  On  account  of  the  high  prices  of  leather 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     171 

shoes,  imported  or  made  locally,  there  is  a  growing  demand 
for  canvas  shoes  with  rubber  soles.  Both  white  and  colored 
styles  are  popular,  although  the  latter,  such  as  tan  and  gray, 
seem  to  be  the  best  sellers.  Leather  shoes  of  only  fair  quality 
made  locally  for  adults  cost  about  $10  United  States  currency, 
while  imported  shoes  are  much  more  expensive. 

The  lands  of  the  Pacific  plain  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  towns  and  along  the  rivers  are  generally  possessed  by 
the  Indians  in  small  individual  holdings,  while  the  high 
grounds  further  back  belong  to  rich  hacendados.  The  In- 
dians perform  all  the  field  labor,  both  in  their  own  small  hold- 
ings and  as  field  laborers  on  the  estates  of  the  wealthy  propri- 
etors. The  ordinary  farm  laborer  receives  a  peso  (50c)  or  two 
pesos  a  day  according  to  the  locality,  and  the  common  price 
for  clearing  an  acre  of  woodland  is  from  eight  to  ten  pesos. 

The  plains  are  coverd  with  a  scrubby  growth  of  lignum 
vitae,  Brazil-wood,  mezquite,  rosewood,  and  cactus,  with  occa- 
sional clumps  of  palm.  From  some  vantage  point  in  the  cor- 
dillera  the  whole  plain,  from  the  foot  of  the  dividing  range 
to  the.  Pacific,  is  distinctly  visible.  Its  variegated  tropical 
vegetation,  with  here  and  there  an  isolated  cerro  rising  like  a 
pyramid  from  the  level  plains,  and  the  deep  blue  sea  for  a 
background,  all  combine  to  render  it  one  of  the  most  fascinat- 
ing of  landscapes.  And  such  was  the  sight  which  met  the  eyes 
of  the  conquering  hosts  of  Cosijoeza  when,  some  four  cen- 
turies ago,  they  scaled  the  outermost  ridges  of  the  mountains 
of  Oaxaca  and  looked  down  on  the  scene  below.  Time  has 
wrought  but  little  change;  the  country  still  lies  awaiting  de- 
velopment. 

Once  fairly  on  the  plain  the  sandy  trails  wind  through 
the  scrub,  and  the  traveler  rides  for  hours  without  being  able 
to  see  more  than  a  few  rods  in  advance,  encountering  neither 


172  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

fence,  nor  clearing,  nor  habitation.  The  plains  are  arid,  hot, 
and  sandy,  and  in  many  parts  almost  destitute  of  vegetation, 
except  grass  of  a  poor  quality  and  the  Jicara*  tree  (Crescentia 
cujete).  This  tree  bears  a  green  sessile  fruit  or  gourd  about 
six  inches  in  diameter,  from  which  the  natives  make  their 
cups  and  dippers.  When  ripe  it  is  strong  in  the  properties  of 
ergotin,  of  the  uses  of  which  the  Indians,  fortunately,  are 
ignorant. 

The  soil  is  a  light  loam,  generally  of  a  yellowish  or  red- 
dish color.  From  October  to  June  there  is  no  rain  and  the 
whole  country  becomes  parched  and  barren.  A  limited  area  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  rivers  is  irrigated,  but  the  water  sup- 
ply for  this  purpose  is  limited,  and  indeed,  toward  the  close 
of  the  rainy  season  the  smaller  streams  become  quite  dry.  The 
soil  is  fertile,  but  the  want  of  rain  and  sufficient  water  for 
irrigation,  as  well  as  the  destructive  northers,  prevent  agri- 
culture on  a  large  scale. 

But  these  same  northers  are  the  key  to  the  situation. 
Turning  a  thousand  windmills  they  could  lift  the  water  from 
the  rivers  and  irrigate  nearly  all  of  the  1,400  square  miles 
of  plain.  And  they  might  be  used  even  at  points  remote  from 
streams,  for  abundance  of  water  is  obtainable  at  moderate 
depths,  the  water  level  in  the  dry  season  not  being  greater 
than  thirty  feet.  A  few  windmills  have  been  introduced,  only 
to  be  overthrown  by  the  northers.  What  is  needed  is  a  low- 
well-braced  windmill  which  the  winds  cannot  overthrow,  and 
the  problem  of  irrigating  these  plains  is  largely  solved. 

Indian  corn  is  the  great  staple  crop,  growing  in  all  local- 
ities and  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  The  period  of  growth 
being  less  than  ninety  days,  it  is  possible  to  raise  four  crops 
yearly  on  the  same  ground ;  indeed,  at  Tehuantepec  it  is  said  a 

*Also  called  Totuma,  Higuera,  Dita  and  Chima. 


Sugar  Cane  Plantations  Offer  Big  Business  Possibilities — Young  Cane  on  th< 

Oaxatjuena  Plantation 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     173 

crop  is  often  grown  in  less  than  sixty  days.  On  non-irrigated 
land  but  two  crops  are  generally  grown,  the  principal  crop 
ripening  in  August.  As  soon  as  it  is  harvested  the  ground  is 
prepared  for  a  second  crop,  which,  coming  after  the  rains 
have  ceased,  is  much  inferior  to  the  first,  the  ears  being  mere 
nubbins. 

Growing  corn  under  irrigation  is  a  different  matter.  My 
friend  Jerome  H.  Mahoney  of  Reforma  follows  the  plan  of 
planting  one-third  of  his  milpa  (corn  field)  each  month,  thus 
securing  twelve  crops  of  corn  per  year.  It  is  fortunate  that 
this  crop  can  be  renewed  so  often,  for  very  soon  after  the  corn 
ripens  it  is  attacked  by  the  weevil  and  reduced  to  powder. 
The  Indians  smoke  the  corn  to  combat  this  pest,  but  even  this 
does  not  afford  an  absolute  protection,  and  in  consequence  its 
cost  in  certain  seasons  is  very  high.  A  drying  plant,  such  as 
is  used  on  the  Oaxaquena  plantation  near  Santa  Lucrecia,  is 
essential  to  enable  the  planter  to  preserve  his  crop  unimpaired. 

Here  in  southern  Mexico  corn  is  the  staple  article  of  food, 
as  rice  is  with  the  Oriental  and  wheat  with  the  European.  To 
this  fact  is  doubtless  due  in  great  measure  the  superior  phy- 
sique of  the  Zapotec  Indian.  In  preparing  it  for  food  the 
grains  are  soaked  in  lime  for  a  few  hours  to  loosen  the  hard 
exterior  shells,  which  are  then  removed  and  the  corn  placed 
on  a  flat  stone,  the  metate,  and  with  the  aid  of  a  stone  roller 
ground  to  pulp ;  after  which  it  is  made  into  thin  griddle  cakes 
and  baked  on  a  comal,  a  fiat  disk  of  unglazed  pottery.  The 
ordinary  cake  is  called  "tortilla;"  that  baked  to  a  crisp,  the 
form  preferred  by  Europeans,  "totoposti." 

The  day  of  the  metate  is  passing.  Already  in  the  larger 
towns  the  grain,  after  being  prepared  as  has  been  described,  is 
ground  at  public  mills  run  by  electric  motors.  The  next  step 
will  be  the  introduction  of  the  ordinary  grist  mill,  grinding 


174  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

the  dry  grain.  It  is  strange,  considering  the  slight  expense 
involved  in  installing  grist  mills,  that  they  have  not  been 
introduced  before ;  but  this  is  possibly  due  to  a  native  prejudice 
against  corn  meal,  though  to  the  European's  way  of  thinking 
bread  made  from  it  is  much  more  palatable  than  the  tortilla. 

People  seldom  go  to  the  ends  of  the  earth  to  raise  beans, 
and  yet  a  person  going  to  Mexico  might  do  worse.  The  bean 
grows  in  all  parts  of  the  Isthmus  and  yields  abundantly,  a 
single  pod  often  yielding  as  many  as  twenty  beans.  Two 
crops  can  be  raised  yearly  and  the  market  is  certain.  The 
Mexicans  being  great  bean  consumers,  the  entire  crop,  if  not 
consumed  locally,  always  finds  a  ready  sale  in  northern  Mex- 
ico. Several  sorts  of  beans  are  raised  but  the  small  black 
bean — the  common  frijole — is  the  safest  crop.  It  is  not  only 
a  staple  article  of  commerce  in  Mexico,  but  when  crops  are 
abundant  is  largely  shipped  to  other  Latin  American  countries. 

On  the  Gulf  plains  of  the  Isthmus  rice  may  be  grown 
without  irrigation  and  an  abundant  crop  is  always  certain. 
From  100  to  200  fold  is  not  uncommon,  while  a  voluntary  sec- 
ond crop,  if  cared  for,  will  produce  abundantly.  Rice  is 
planted  in  Mexico  at  the  beginning  of  the  rainy  season  and 
is  harvested  at  its  close ;  giving  ample  time,  after  the  rice  has 
been  removed,  to  plant  a  crop  of  corn,  or  to  take  care  of  the 
voluntary  crop.  Mexico  will  supply  a  home  market  for  all  the 
rice  which  can  be  produced  for  many  years  to  come.  Rice  is 
not  raised  on  the  Pacific  side  of  the  Isthmus. 

The  northwestern  portion  of  the  Isthmus,  between  Santa 
Lucrecia  and  Tierra  Blanca,  along  the  line  of  the  Vera  Cruz 
al  Isthmo  railway,  is  largely  devoted  to  the  culture  of  Chili 
peppers.  In  normal  times  the  crop  is  large  and  profitable,  and 
quantities  of  the  product  are  shipped  to  Mexico  City,  Toluca, 
and  other  marketing  and  canning  points.  Three  red  varieties 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     175 

are  raised,  the  ancho  (a  wide,  dried  pepper)  selling  at  2  pesos 
($1)  per  kilo  (2.2  pounds)  ;  the  Pico  de  Paparo,  a  small  pepper 
selling  at  2:25  pesos  ($1.13)  per  kilo;  and  the  Chili  Chiltepen, 
also  a  small  red  pepper,  bringing  5  pesos  ($2.50)  per  kilo. 
Green  varieties  sell  at  1.50  pesos  (75c)  per  kilo. 

Chili  peppers  are  so  largely  in  demand  for  local  consump- 
tion that  they  are  seldom  exported.  Choice  varieties  are,  in 
fact,  imported  largely  from  Spain. 

It  is  believed  there  is  no  country  with  Mexico's  latent 
powers  for  the  production  and  consumption  of  sugar,  which 
at  the  same  time  has  so  few  facilities  for  the  actual  refining 
of  sugar  and  its  preparation  for  the  market.  The  normal  con- 
sumption of  the  Republic  is  100,000  tons  per  annum.  The 
production  fall  far  below  this  figure,  the  deficiency  being 
met  by  the  importation  of  raw  sugar  from  Central  America 
(especially  Salvador),  Peru,  Cuba,  and  Java. 

Southern  Mexico  has  practically  unlimited  possibilities 
for  the  production  of  sugar.  Its  tropical  climate,  a  marvel- 
ously  productive  soil,  cheap  labor,  and  protective  laws,  create 
conditions  extremely  favorable  to  the  growing  of  sugar  cane 
and  the  manufacture  of  sugar. 

Mexico's  sugar  industry  is  still  in  its  infancy,  only  a 
very  small  proportion  of  the  land  available  for  sugar  grow- 
ing being  now  used.  Sugar  cane  grows  in  all  parts  of  the 
Isthmus,  but  the  Gulf  plains  and  the  lower  valley  of  the  Coat- 
zacoalcos  are  best  suited  to  its  cultivation.  With  practically 
no  cultivation  the  native  Mexicans  raise  from  30  to  35  tons 
of  cane  per  acre,  and  on  well  cultivated  plantations  the  yield 
is  nearly  double  that  amount.  Some  of  the  cane  fields  of  that 
section  have  produced  as  long  as  thirty  years  without  replant- 
ing, though  nine  years  is  the  rule.  On  crushing  the  cane  yields 
a  juice  of  density  from  9  to  11.5  degrees  Baume. 


176  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

There  are  a  few  large  plants  which  are  prepared  to  turn 
out  large  quantities  of  first-class  sugar,  and  in  connection 
with  these  plants  are  large  acreages  of  cane  in  cultivation 
using  modern  methods  in  cultivating  and  harvesting.  But  in 
many  localities  the  most  primitive  methods  are  employed  both 
in  cultivating  the  cane  and  in  making  sugar.  In  such  instances 
the  output  is  a  coarse,  brown  article  known  as  panela,  panocha, 
or  piloncillo,  put  up  in  small  cones.  This  grade  of  sugar  con- 
tains a  high  percentage  of  saccharine  matter,  but  the  flavor 
and  color  are  such  as  to  prevent  its  use  in  the  crude  state  ex- 
cept by  the  lower  classes. 

It  is  significant  that  nowhere  in  Mexico  have  the  natives 
taken  up  the  cultivation  of  coffee  or  rubber  to  any  great  extent. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  official  register  of  sugar  in  Mexico 
includes  the  names  of  over  a  thousand  large  sugar  plantations, 
and  there  are  innumerable  small  patches,  more  than  nine- 
tenths  of  which  are  owned  and  operated  by  native  Mexicans, 
On  the  large  properties  the  native  owners  are  beginning  to 
adopt  modern  methods. 

The  evolution  of  the  sugar  industry  is  particularly  inter- 
esting to  the  observer  in  the  tropics.  In  inland  districts  the 
native  Indian  will  plant  a  small  patch  of  sugar  cane  far  up 
on  the  mountain  side;  grind  it  in  the  old-fashioned  wooden 
crusher,  with  its  two  upright  creaking  rollers,  driven  round 
and  round,  sometimes  by  slowly  plodding  oxen,  sometimes  by 
the  diminutive  mule,  and  again  by  peon  laborers;  reduce  the 
juice  in  handmade  earthen  pans  or  perhaps  in  a  single  kettle ; 
shape  it  into  small  cones  by  permitting  the  syrup  to  settle  in 
earthen  moulds ;  and  then  transport  it  on  muleback  many  miles 
over  the  mountains,  and  sell  it  at  a  price  satisfactory  to  him, 
regardless  of  the  labor  involved. 

The  more  wealthy  planter,  with  his  acres  of  sugar  cane 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     177 

skirting  the  banks  of  some  river  whose  current  affords  easy 
transportation  to  market,  employs  more  advanced  methods 
for  the  reduction  of  juices,  but  his  mills  were  generally  built 
fifty,  sixty,  or  seventy  years  ago,  largely  of  the  open  kettle 
and  pan-boiling  process. 

By  one  or  the  other  of  these  crude  methods  more  than 
four-fifths  of  Mexico's  sugar  product  is  obtained.  Now  comes 
the  foreigner;  the  old  appliances  are  discarded  for  vacuum 
pans,  "triple  effects,"  centrifugal,  etc.;  steam  and  electricity 
are  replacing  the  ox  and  the  mule ;  and  the  cost  of  production 
is  reduced  in  proportion  to  the  increased  effectiveness  of  the 
machinery.  But  the  high  prices  are  retained,  because  there 
are  few  modern  mills  and  the  demand  for  sugar  increases 
annually. 

The  leading  sugar  industry  on  the  Isthmus  is  the  Oaxa- 
quena  plantation  (property  of  the  Tabasco  Plantation  Com- 
pany of  Minneapolis,  Minn.)  located  on  the  Coatzacoalcos 
River  fifteen  miles  below  Santa  Lucrecia.  This  property  em- 
braces 15,000  acres,  a  large  part  of  which  has  been  brought 
under  cultivation.  With  its  immense  refinery,  extensive  sys- 
tem of  plantation  railway,  river  fleet,  and  army  of  workers,  it 
is  a  fine  illustration  of  what  American  enterprise  can  make  of 
this  part  of  the  world.  A  launch  plies  regularly  between  Santa 
Lucrecia  and  the  plantation. 

At  Oaxaquena  and  on  the  Gulf  plains  generally  cane  ma- 
tures in  12  months,  while  in  Hiawaii  it  requires  18  months. 

On  the  Pacific  plains  the  culture  of  sugar  cane  is  also  quite 
general,  though  there  are  but  few  large  plantations.  Little 
plantations,  each  with  its  own  grinding  mill  (the  machinery 
for  which  is  imported  from  the  United  States),  at  which  a 
dark  brown  sugar  is  made,  are  scattered  up  and  down  the 
rivers.  There  are  but  three  ingenios  (sugar  mills)  in  the 


178  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

district  equipped  with  modern  machinery;  the  Ingenio  de 
Santa  Teresa  at  Mixtequilla,  three  miles  from  Tehuantepec,  the 
Ingenio  de  Santa  Cruz,  a  few  miles  west  of  San  Geronimo,  and 
that  of  San  Domingo,  near  Union  Hidalgo  on  the  Pan  Amer- 
ican Railroad.  All  these  manufacture  a  pure  white  sugar  of 
the  best  quality. 

Mexico  produces  among  the  best  grades  of  coffee  obtain- 
able in  the  markets  of  the  world,  the  great  bulk  coming  from 
the  southern  states  of  Oaxaca,  Vera  Cruz,  Tabasco,  and 
Chiapas. 

Coffee  plants  are  started  in  nurseries  and  when  from  six 
months  to  a  year  old  are  transplanted  to  the  orchard  site.  After 
the  third  year  a  small  crop  may  be  harvested;  perhaps  300 
pounds  per  acre  the  fourth  year,  increasing  to  about  500 
pounds  the  sixth  year. 

Large  capital  is  not  essential  to  the  industry,  and  much 
of  the  coffee  is  raised  in  small  "fincas"  of  a  few  acres  each. 
From  500  to  600  trees  are  planted  to  the  acre  and  the  produc- 
tion per  acre  runs  over  500  pounds  as  soon  as  the  orchard  is 
well  established.  The  usual  life  of  the  tree  is  about  forty  years, 
but  it  is  in  its  prime  from  the  sixth  to  the  thirteenth  year.  The 
greatest  danger  in  connection  with  coffee  planting  is  a  short- 
age of  labor  in  the  picking  season. 

Very  little  coffee  is  raised  on  the  Isthmus.  A  small 
amount  is  grown  by  the  Indians  among  the  foothills,  both 
about  Mogane  north  of  the  divide  and  along  the  upper  reaches 
of  the  Tehuantepec;  but  the  real  coffee-growing  districts  are 
elsewhere.  The  Soconusco  district  of  Chiapas  is  the  prin- 
cipal coffee  producing  region  of  Mexico.  On  the  high  hflls 
lying  back  from  Tapachula  and  the  other  towns  of  the  lit- 
toral extensive  coffee  fincas  have  been  laid  out  by  a  mixed 
colony  of  Germans,  French,  Mexicans,  British,  and  Americans. 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     179 

The  coffee  ripens  in  the  spring,  when  it  is  brought  to  town 
and  transported  by  rail  to  Salina  Cruz,  and  thence  by  ship  to 
San  Francisco. 

The  production  of  this  district  is  enormous.  The  annual 
crop  of  Chiapas  approximates  150,000  quintals  (33,060,000 
Ibs.).  The  product  resembles  the  coffee  of  Guatemala  in  its 
various  grades  and  is  easily  substituted  for  it.  This  is  espe- 
cially true  of  coffee  from  tineas  whose  altitude  exceeds  3,000 
feet.  This  Chiapas  coffee  is  known  to  the  trade  as  "Tapa- 
chula." 

A  large  amount  of  coffee  is  also  produced  in  the  district 
west  of  Salina  Cruz  about  Pochutla.  This  is  loaded  aboard 
ship  at  Puerto  Angel. 

Mexican  coffee  is  milder  than  that  of  Java,  but  its  flavor 
is  not  inferior ;  that  is,  when  properly  prepared.  Coffee  is  the 
national  drink,  but  among  Mexicans  the  custom  is  to  drink 
"milk  with  coffee"  rather  than  "coffee  with  milk."  And  in 
this  they  show  their  wisdom,  for  coffee  prepared  after  the  na- 
tive manner  is  a  most  villainous  concoction  and  the  less  one 
takes  of  it  the  better. 

The  cacao  tree  is  indigenous  to  Mexico.  It  has  been  culti- 
vated by  the  Indians  for  many  centuries,  and  from  its  bean 
they  make  their  chocolatl  (chocolate).  The  cacao  requires  a 
warm  and  moist  atmosphere,  the  lands  best  suited  to  its  cul- 
ture lying  between  sea  level  and  an  altitude  of  1,600  feet,  in 
localities  protected  from  strong  winds.  The  lower  Coatza- 
coalcos  valley  is  well  suited  to  cacao  culture.  The  plant  bears 
three  or  four  years  after  planting,  and  usually  gives  three 
crops  a  year.  It  reaches  its  maximum  production  in  the  ninth 
or  tenth  year  and  after  the  twenty-third  year  its  yield  dimin- 
ishes. Trees  are  planted  about  400  to  the  acre,  the  average 
yield  of  1,000  trees  being  600  pounds. 


180  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

The  cultivation  of  indigo  is  limited  to  the  Pacific  plains, 
in  the  light  soil  and  dry  atmosphere  of  which  this  plant  does 
remarkably  well.  It  was  once  the  most  important  article  of 
export  on  the  Isthmus,  but  the  demand  for  this  commodity  has 
fallen  off  greatly  with  the  introduction  of  mineral  dyes,  and 
cultivation  is  now  confined  to  the  neighborhood  of  Iztaltepec, 
the  indigo  center  for  this  region. 

The  indigo  plant  (Indigofera  disperma)  much  resembles 
a  young  asparagus  plant  after  the  leaves  have  formed,  but 
the  leaves  are  not  similar  but  resemble  rather  those  of  the 
common  locust.  Indigo  is  planted  in  rows  two  feet  apart,  so 
as  to  permit  of  hoeing.  The  best  crops  are  derived  from  new 
land,  which  is  therefore  generally  selected.  A  planting  lasts 
four  years,  one  crop  being  gathered  each  year.  The  second 
and  third  crops  are  the  best,  and  about  forty  pounds  to  the 
acre  is  accounted  a  good  crop.  To  extract  the  pigment  the 
whole  plant  is  soaked  in  water  for  twenty-four  hours,  when 
fermentation  occurs  and  the  indigo  is  extracted  and  held 
suspended  in  the  water.  The  plants  are  then  removed  and 
the  water  agitated  with  paddles  until  the  indigo  curdles. 
Gulabere  juice  is  then  added  and  the  indigo  is  precipitated  in 
flaky  masses,  after  which  the  water  is  drawn  off.  Then  the 
indigo  is  dried,  pressed,  and  packed  in  bales  for  the  market. 

The  public  should  exercise  caution  in  investing  in  rubber 
plantations  in  southern  Mexico.  Rubber  planting  requires 
large  capital  and  no  returns  can  be  expected  for  a  number 
of  years.  The  Isthmus  is  covered  with  abandoned  rubber 
plantations  from  which  the  promoter  alone  has  profited.  Rub- 
ber trees  grow  wild  in  the  forests  of  the  Chiapas  littoral  and 
there,  and  there  alone,  has  the  cultivation  of  rubber  been 
successful.  The  La  Zacualpa  plantation,  under  the  able  man- 
agement of  Mr.  Graham  M.  Kerr,  consists  of  18,000  acres,  of 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     181 

which  10,000  are  in  rubber,  the  trees  ranging  from  ten  to 
twenty  years  old.  There  is  another  considerable  plantation 
at  Mapastepec  under  the  management  of  Howard  T.  Manley. 
All  the  plantations  in  Chiapas  are  planted  with  the  tree  known 
as  Castiloa  elastica. 

The  dry  Pacific  plains  of  the  Isthmus  are  well  adapted  to 
the  culture  of  plants  of  the  agave  family.  Sisal  or  henequin 
can  be  successfully  grown  in  the  region  between  Juchitan  and 
Tonala.  But  much  more  important  in  these  parts  are  the 
ixtle  and  pita.  These  abound  wild  and  are  also  cultivated, 
improving  the  quality.  In  general  appearance  they  resemble 
sisal,  but  are  of  much  finer  fiber,  some  varieties  possessing  a 
silky  texture.  They  are  set  out  in  rows  four  feet  apart,  the 
plants  in  the  row  being  at  intervals  of  two  or  three  feet.  Their 
blue-green  leaves,  springing  from  a  fleshy  bulb  resembling  a 
pineapple,  are  from  two  to  five  feet  in  length  and  about  three 
inches  in  width  at  the  base,  tapering  to  a  thorn-capped  point. 
The  outer  leaves  are  cut  from  time  to  time  as  they  mature. 
They  are  used  in  the  manufacture  of  hammocks  (the  bed  of 
the  Isthmean  Indian),  paper,  cord,  coarse  cloth,  and  thread. 
The  best  varieties,  owing  to  the  silky  texture  of  their  fiber, 
are  adapted  to  the  manufacture  of  fine  dress-goods. 

Tons  of  second-hand  newspapers  are  imported  from  the 
United  States  yearly  for  use  as  wrapping  paper.  No  paper  is 
manufactured  locally  and  the  price  of  paper  is  very  high.  With 
practically  inexhaustable  supplies  of  agave  growing  on  the 
plains  there  is  an  excellent  opportunity  for  the  establishment 
of  paper  mills. 

Native  tobacco  and  cigars  are  very  cheap  on  the  Isthmus. 
Considerable  tobacco  is  grown  for  home  use  but  none  for  ex- 
port. This  is  an  industry  which  will  admit  of  considerable 
expansion.  The  Mexican  government  imposes  a  high  import 


182  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

duty  on  foreign  tobaccos,  and  export  duties  are  also  imposed 
from  time  to  time  on  leaf  tobacco.  These  vary  from  two  and 
one-half  cents  (U.  S.  currency)  to  four  and  one-half  cents  per 
kilo  on  wrapper  tobacco  and  from  one  to  two  and  one-half 
cents  on  filler  tobacco. 

Vanilla  is  a  native  of  Mexico,  where  it  has  been  used  from 
time  immemorial  for  flavoring  chocolate.  Much  of  the  vanilla 
of  commerce  is  still  gathered  from  vines  (Epidendrum  vanilla) 
growing  wild  in  the  Chimalapas.  There  the  plant  flowers  in 
February  and  the  bean  is  ripe  in  June.  It  is  cultivated  to  a 
small  extent  but  receives  far  less  attention  than  the  circum- 
stances warrant.  Its  culture  is  very  simple  and  could  easily 
be  made  quite  profitable. 

A  rich,  well-drained  soil  is  required  for  vanilla,  the 
plants  being  raised  from  cuttings,  which  should  be  set  near 
a  tree  or  post  for  support.  The  plants  commence  to  seed  the 
second  year  and  are  in  full  bearing  the  fourth  year.  They 
flower  in  February  and  March  and  the  pods  are  ripe  in  five 
months.  After  the  beans  have  been  properly  cured  they  are 
packed  in  cans,  soldered  up,  and  shipped  to  market. 

The  sarsaparilla  abounds  along  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Coatzacoalcos  and  its  tributaries,  being  so  common  along  the 
upper  course  of  the  Puerta  as  to  give  rise  to  the  belief  that  the 
waters  are  rendered  medicinal  by  its  presence. 

The  Palma  Cristi  or  castor-oil  tree  grows  wild  along 
all  the  river  banks  on  both  sides  of  the  Isthmus.  I  say  "tree" 
advisedly,  because  the  plant  here  attains  gigantic  proportions. 
I  recollect  a  beautiful  tree  fully  fifteen  feet  in  height  which 
grew  close  by  the  station  house  at  Tehuantepec.  The  wild  plant 
is  so  abundant  that  a  large  amount  of  beans  might  readily  be 
gathered  for  export,  and  I  believe  it  a  very  paying  crop  where 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     183 

grown  on  irrigated  land.     Its  culture  without  irrigation  has 
been  tried  with  unsatisfactory  results. 

Rice  is  easily  grown  but  is  seldom  raised,  the  American 
Indian  not  being  a  rice  eater.  No  wheat  is  raised  on  the  Isth- 
mus nor  in  any  of  the  adjacent  parts  of  Mexico,  though  several 
attempts  have  been  made  to  grow  it  on  the  table  lands  of  the 
divide.  Undoubtedly,  however,  wheat  might  be  successfully 
grown  in  the  higher  parts  of  the  Chiapas  plateau  as  an  inferior 
grade  of  rye  is  now  grown  there  by  the  Indians.  Flax  of  ex- 
cellent quality  grows  on  the  plateaux  of  the  dividing  range; 
which  reminds  us  that  linen  is  said  to  have  been  in  use  among 
the  ancient  Aztecs  and  Zapotecs. 

Among  other  plant  and  forest  products  which  may  be 
exploited  to  advantage  are  the  following :  Cassia,  ginger,  pep- 
per (black),  cubebs,  licorice,  balsam  of  Peru,  copal,  guapinol 
(frankincense),  liquidamber  and  sassafras. 

Southern  Mexico  produces  a  great  quantity  of  fruit  gen- 
erally of  poor  quality  it  is  true,  for  improved  varieties  have 
been  but  seldom  introduced  and  the  Indian,  who  is  the  main 
producer,  grows  entirely  from  seed.  I  have  no  doubt  that  ex- 
cellent varieties  were  originally  introduced  by  the  Spaniard, 
but  with  continual  growing  from  the  seed  ever  since  and  no 
attempt  at  selection  or  hybridization,  the  present  fruits  have 
"reverted  to  type,"  to  use  the  jargon  of  science,  and  the  under- 
sized, gnarly,  insipid  specimens  of  apples,  peaches,  and  quinces 
brought  to  the  market,  in  this  land  where  the  best  could  be 
raised,  are  trying,  to  say  the  least.  The  native  tropical  fruits 
are  better,  but  even  these  are  generally  from  seed. 

The  raising  of  fruit  by  the  foreigner  is  another  matter. 
Before  the  Revolution  there  were  hundreds  of  plantations  in 
improved  varieties  of  fruit  along  the  Coatzacoalcos  and  the 
line  of  the  Vera  Cruz  al  Istmo  railway.  These  are  grown  up 


184  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

to  jungle  now,  but  two  or  three  years,  so  great  is  the  recupera- 
tive power  of  nature  in  this  favored  region,  will  see  them  again 
in  full  bearing. 

In  a  few  instances  foreigners  have  planted  orchards  of 
temperate-zone  fruits  on  the  plateaux  near  the  larger  cities 
and  have  met  with  marked  success.  There  is  no  reason  why 
more  might  not  do  so.  The  Mexican  consumer  buys  inferior 
fruit  because  it  is  often  the  only  kind  available;  but  he  will 
always  buy  the  best  in  the  market,  for  he  is  a  ready  spender. 
I  know  of  no  better  investment  than  a  large  orchard  of  choice 
varieties  of  fruits  of  the  temperate  zone,  such  as  apples,  pears, 
and  peaches.  This  would  of  course  require  an  altitude  of  three 
thousand  feet  or  more. 

The  fact  that  orange,  lemon  and  lime  are  found  growing 
wild  in  the  Isthmus  country  is  strong  evidence  that  the  coun- 
try is  well  adapted  to  their  culture.  These  fruits  are  grown 
on  the  Gulf  side  without  the  irrigation  and  fertilization  so 
necessary  in  southern  California  and  come  into  the  market  a 
good  month  earlier.  When  it  is  considered  that  fruit  may  be 
shipped  from  the  Isthmus  to  New  York  (2,000  miles)  almost 
entirely  by  cheap  water  transportation,  while  the  California 
citrus  fruit  growers  must  ship  their  fruit  3,177  miles  by  rail, 
it  does  not  require  a  very  deep  mathematician  to  figure  the 
Mexican  grower's  advantage. 

While  the  grape  fruit  is  not  found  wild  like  the  orange, 
lemon,  and  lime,  yet  being  of  the  same  family  and  reaching 
perfection  under  the  same  climatic  conditions,  it  has  surprised 
all  who  have  given  it  a  trial  in  the  size  and  beauty  of  the  fruit. 
During  my  stay  at  Salina  Cruz  I  was  several  times  the  re- 
cipient of  a  box  of  grape  fruit  from  my  friend  Jesus  Alvarez 
(Who  dwelt  on  the  Coatzacoalcos  midway  between  Santa  Lu- 
crecia  and  Chivela) ,  fruit  fully  equal  to  the  Florida  product. 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     185 

Tropical  Mexico  is  the  home  of  the  banana,  of  which  there 
are  some  twenty  varieties.  The  banana  bears  fruit  one  year 
after  planting,  each  plant  bearing  a  bunch  which,  according  to 
the  variety,  contains  from  100  to  200  bananas.  The  cultivation 
of  the  plant  could  not  be  simpler.  The  young  plants  are  set  out 
and  the  cultivator  takes  no  further  notice  of  them  until  the 
fruit  is  ripe  for  gathering;  the  crop  is  certain.  After  pro- 
ducing a  bunch  of  fruit  the  stalk  dies ;  but  for  each  stalk  that 
withers,  many  shoots  grow  up  around  it,  a  generation  of  dif- 
ferent sizes  arising  to  form  a  thicket  in  place  of  the  single 
trunk  which  formerly  existed.  Thus,  from  the  first  year  the 
production  goes  on,  and  four,  six,  or  more  bunches  per  annum 
can  be  cut  from  the  same  clump,  the  harvest  lasting  the  year 
round.  The  generation  is  continuous,  but  the  number  of 
bunches  increases  with  the  age  of  the  plant. 

The  banana,  to  be  successful  and  perfect  in  size  and 
flavor,  requires  irrigation  or  a  rainfall  of  about  100  inches  per 
annum.  It  grows  spontaneously  in  great  abundance  near  the 
Gulf  coast.  On  lands  near  the  sea  great  plantations  of  banana 
trees  can  be  laid  out  at  a  cost  of  5  cents  to  10  cents  per  plant, 
which  includes  all  expense  up  to  the  time  of  fruiting.  An  acre 
will  produce  from  700  to  800  bunches,  at  a  cost  not  exceeding 
15  cents  per  bunch. 

The  regions  of  the  earth  where  the  banana  may  be  grown 
successfully  on  a  large  scale  are  limited,  and  of  those  regions 
only  a  very  small  part  can  be  devoted  to  banana  culture  with 
assurance  of  commercial  success,  for  the  reason  that  he  who 
would  grow  for  export  must  plant  on  the  borders  of  navigable 
waters  giving  ready  access  to  harbors  where  ships  may  safely 
lie  while  loading.  These  conditions  are  realized  in  the  banks 
of  the  lower  Coatzacoalcos. 


186  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

I  have  already  spoken  of  the  papaw  (papaya  ,Sp.).  It  is 
one  of  the  most  common  trees  in  southern  Mexico,  growing  in 
houseyards  everywhere  without  any  care  whatever.  Besides 
the  use  of  the  fruit  as  a  dessert,  much  as  we  use  the  cantaloupe, 
it  is  also  used  in  the  preparation  of  papain,  an  article  exported 
and  used  in  the  manufacture  of  peptonized  foods. 

The  milk  of  the  papaw  possesses  the  property  of  rendering 
meat  tender,  and  in  fact  partially  digesting  it.  It  is  obtained  by 
making  a  scratch  or  shallow  incision  in  the  skin  of  the  papaw 
fruit  while  in  green  condition.  A  bone  or  wooden  knife  similar 
to  a  paper  knife  should  be  employed  in  making  the  incision, 
as  it  is  essential  that  no  metal  implement  be  employed.  The 
milky  fluid  exudes  rapidly  and  is  caught  in  an  earthenware 
or  glass  vessel.  The  fruit  is  not  removed  from  the  tree  and 
may  be  tapped  several  times  at  intervals  of  two  or  three  days. 

The  juice  coagulates  soon  after  collection  and  takes  the 
form  of  a  snow-white  curd  possessed  of  a  somewhat  pungent 
but  not  putrid  smell.  It  speedily  decomposes  if  not  rapidly 
dried  and  when  decomposing  emits  a  most  unpleasant  odor. 
Drying  is  effected  by  spreading  the  coagulated  milk  on  drying 
frames  made  by  stretching  brown  linen  on  light  wooden 
frames.  The  drying  is  continued  until  the  product  is  crisp  and 
in  such  condition  that  it  can  be  reduced  to  a  fine  powder.  Then 
it  is  ground  to  powder  and  packed  in  airtight  tins  or  bottles. 

The  fresh  papaya  is  very  popular  as  a  dessert  fruit  as  it 
promotes  digestion. 

If  rapid  transportation  to  San  Francisco  could  be  assured, 
the  pineapple  industry  would  pay  on  the  Pacific  plains.  The 
climate  is  well  suited  to  the  growth  of  pineapples,  which  excel 
in  size  and  sweetness  those  of  any  other  part  of  the  Republic. 
The  question  of  transportation  solved,  the  matter  of  labor 
would  need  consideration.  The  planter  on  the  plains  would 
of  necessity  employ  Zapotec  laborers,  and  the  Zapotec  is  the 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     187 

best  kind  of  a  workman  if  well  treated  but  a  very  bad  man  if 
abused.    He  must  be  met  half  way. 

The  pineapple  is  one  of  the  most  delicious  fruits  grown 
in  the  tropics.  It  requires  no  more  care  and  attention  than 
the  cabbage,  and  like  cabbage  is  planted  about  4,000  plants  to 
the  acre.  The  apple  grows  from  the  shoots  which  spring  up 
about  the  base  of  the  mother  plant  when  fruiting  is  complete. 
These  shoots  when  set  out  will  produce  ripe  fruit  in  from  12 
to  18  months,  according  to  variety.  There  are  a  number  of 
varieties,  which  ripen  at  different  seasons,  producing  fruit  of 
varying  sizes.  Pineapples  weighing  from  ten  to  eighteen 
pounds  are  often  seen  at  Tehuantepec. 

Coconuts  and  cohune  nuts  grow  wild  along  the  Pacific 
littoral;  but  they  can  be  raised  successfully  only  near  the 
coast,  not  further  back  than  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  at  most. 

There  is  a  fortune  in  raising  coconuts.  In  five  years  from 
planting  the  tree  attains  a  diameter  of  twelve  inches  and  be- 
gins to  bear,  the  yield  increasing  until  the  average  is  300  to 
400  nuts  per  tree  per  annum.  The  tree  usually  bears  until  it 
is  about  fifty  years  old.  The  nut  is  always  in  demand  and  the 
shell  is  used  for  making  buttons,  drinking  cups,  etc.  A  grove, 
once  established,  yields  a  steady  profit,  without  attention 
except  to  gather  and  prepare  the  nuts  for  market.  There  is 
a  world  market  for  copra  and  coconut  oil,  the  latter  being  used 
largely  in  the  manufacture  of  soap,  medicinal  preparations  and 
druggists  supplies,  and  as  an  adulterant  for  butter  or  substi- 
tute for  lard  and  butter. 

Cohune  nuts  or  Coquitos  de  aceite  (little  oil  coconuts) 
are  dwarf  coconuts  about  two  inches  in  diameter.  They  con- 
tain a  very  high  percentage  of  oil,  between  50  and  60  per  cent. 
The  oil  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of  soap,  candles,  and  for 


188  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

lighting  purposes.    These  nuts  are  gathered  in  the  winter  and 
are  used  by  the  local  soap  factories,  but  are  not  exported. 

The  success  of  bee  culture  has  been  demonstrated.  For 
eleven  months  in  the  year  the  bees  can  shift  for  themselves. 
Sometimes  they  require  feeding  for  a  month  or  six  weeks  in  the 
latter  part  of  summer.  Bees  are  kept  mainly  for  the  wax, 
vast  quantities  of  which  are  consumed  in  the  manufacture  of 
candles  for  religious  purposes.  It  is  necessary  to  export  the 
greater  part  of  the  honey  as  the  Indians  have  never  formed 
a  taste  for  that  article.  Don  Carlos  Parkins,  who  conducted 
an  apiary  at  Tehuantepec,  explained  to  me  that  one  of  the  good 
points  of  the  business  was  that  it  rendered  one  independent 
of  the  bandits.  He  could  place  his  apiary  in  the  court  of  a 
city  house  and  abide  there  in  peace  while  his  bees  explored 
the  country  round  about  for  honey.  They  alone  could  gather 
produce  in  the  country  without  paying  blackmail  to  the  bandit, 

I  heard  while  there  that  an  excellent  wild  honey  was 
obtained  in  great  quantities  in  the  mountains  of  Chimalapa 
from  a  stingless  bee,  and  I  asked  Don  Carlos  what  he  thought 
of  it  and  whether  it  would  not  be  well  to  domesticate  these 
bees,  since  they  had  no  stings.  "Well,  seeing  that  you  want  my 
opinion,  I'll  tell  you  what  I  think,"  he  said.  "In  my  opinion 
they  are  a  poor  sort  of  bees  because,  having  no  stings,  they 
evidently  are  lacking  in  'pep'." 

The  timber  business  will  always  attract  many  to  the 
Isthmus  and  the  Chiapas  littoral,  since  it  yields  more  imme- 
diate returns  than  most  other  lines  and  the  demand  for  the 
hard  woods  of  the  tropics  is  steady.  The  species  of  valuable 
timber  are  numberless.  The  leading  kinds  exploited  on  the 
Gulf  plains  are  mahogany,  Spanish  cedar  (Cedrela  odorata), 
macaya  (said  to  petrify  when  cut) ,  guapaque,  sapodilla,  piqui 
(ironwood) ,  brazilwood,  and  guanacastle.  The  mountains  pro- 


In  flu>  Oaxatjuena  Su^ar  Fact<n~y  Everything  is  Modes n — Cane  I'nlomlev  at   XV. .a k 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     189 

duce  pine,  Spanish  oak  (Tecoma  penlaphila),  sapodilla,  brazil- 
wood, and  guanacastle;  while  the  principal  woods  utilized  on 
the  Pacific  plains  are  lignum  vitae  (guayacan),  rosewood, 
jicara  (calabash),  ebony,  mezquite  (used  in  the  manufacture 
of  gun  stocks),  boj  (boxwood),  brazilwood,  cascalote,  grana- 
dillo,  guanacastle,  and  palo  bianco  (satinwood).  The  region 
abounds  in  waterpower  for  the  operation  of  sawmills,  and  the 
local  prices  for  lumber  are  high,  thus  furnishing  a  good  do- 
mestic as  well  as  foreign  market. 

Lumber  is  largely  imported  from  the  United  States,  the 
Mexican  mills  supplying  but  a  small  part  of  the  demand.  There 
will  be,  on  account  of  the  recent  revolution,  a  great  demand 
for  railroad  crossties  for  some  years. 

The  present  export  duties  on  timber  shipped  from  Mexico 
are:  Ordinary  wood  (logs),  not  otherwise  specified,  $0.75 
U.  S.  currency  per  cubic  meter  (35,314  cu.  ft.) ;  ties  or  sleep- 
ers, $0.12  1-2  per  100  kilos  (220.462  Ibs.). 

One  of  Mexico's  most  pressing  needs  is  well-equipped, 
up-to-date  furniture  factories.  There  are  at  present  none 
in  the  country.  Furniture  is  made  by  hand  in  a  small  way 
in  all  the  towns ;  furniture  distinguished  by  the  excellence  of 
the  material  used  (generally  mahogany),  but  crude  and 
clumsy.  In  the  nature  of  things  light,  cheap  furniture  is  not 
manufactured  at  all.  A  modern  factory  which  could  turn  out 
the  cheaper  as  well  as  the  more  costly  grades  of  furniture 
would  rapidly  create  a  market  for  the  former. 

I  fear  the  Isthmus  will  never  be  famed  for  its  mines.  The 
scarcity  of  the  precious  metals  is  one  of  its  marked  features. 
The  region  has  been  thoroughly  explored  for  gold,  which  has 
never  been  found  in  paying  quantities,  nor  are  there  any  indi- 
cations of  the  presence  of  silver,  copper,  lead  or  mercury. 
There  is,  however,  an  abundance  of  iron  ore  in  the  dividing 


190  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

range.  Beds  of  specular  iron  ore  exist  in  Chivela  pass  and 
at  Campanario  Hill  and  red  hematite  has  been  discovered  at 
Tarifa;  while  magnetic  iron  ores  exist  north  of  Niltepec  and 
in  the  Laolaga  hills.  Unfortunately  no  coal  fit  for  smelting 
purposes  has  been  discovered.  Manganese  also  exists  in  the 
Pass  of  Chivela. 

Petroleum  and  asphaltum  abound  along  the  lower  course 
of  the  Coatzacoalcos  and  on  the  Coachapa,  a  tributary.  These 
minerals  appear  to  be  confined  to  the  Gulf  coast.  All  the  oil 
property  on  the  Isthmus  is  controlled  by  El  Aguila,  S.  A. 
(Mexican  Eagle  Oil  Co.),  formerly  the  Pearson  interest,  but 
now  affiliated  with  the  Royal  Dutch  Company.  Their  refinery 
at  Minatitlan  is  the  oldest  in  Mexico.  This  field  produces  an 
oil  of  from  25  to  32  Baume,  and  is  characterized  by  the  short 
period  of  productivity  of  the  wells  and  the  shallow  depth  of 
oil.  Operations  in  this  field  have  not  been  of  great  importance 
during  the  past  few  years. 

The  Pacific  plains  abound  in  salt,  the  product  of  their 
numerous  salinas  or  salt  marshes.  The  greatest  of  these  is  the 
Salinas  del  Marquez,  a  series  of  great  salt  flats  extending  from 
within  a  couple  of  miles  of  Salina  Cruz  westward  for  some 
seven  or  eight  miles,  and  separated  from  the  waters  of  the 
ocean  by  narrow  sand  spits.  These  flats  were  evidently  at  no 
distant  date  a  part  of  the  sea,  from  which  they  have  been  cut 
off  by  the  beach,  which  is  steadily  encroaching  on  the  sea  along 
this  shore. 

In  the  salinas  the  soil  is  saturated  with  salt  to  a  depth  of 
several  feet.  During  the  summer  these  flat  bottoms  become 
filled  with  fresh  water  from  the  rains.  This  water  gradually 
dissolves  the  saline  matter  in  the  soil,  and  when  the  water 
evaporates  with  the  return  of  the  dry  season  the  surface  re- 
mains covered  with  a  deposit  of  pure  salt,  sometimes  as  much 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     191 

as  three  inches  in  thickness.  The  salt  is  generally  collected  in 
February.  It  is  gathered  by  hand  and  piled  in  heaps,  from 
which  it  is  loaded  onto  ox-carts  and  hauled  to  Salina  Cruz, 
whence  it  is  shipped  to  interior  points. 

Extensive  salinas  also  exist  on  the  borders  of  the  Upper 
Lagoon.  These  salinas  are  altogether,  if  properly  handled, 
capable  of  yielding  an  immense  quantity  of  excellent  salt.  The 
primitive  methods  employed  result  in  a  loss  of  nine-tenths  of 
the  possible  product. 

There  exists  on  the  Pacific  plain,  half  a  mile  from  the 
mountains  and  midway  between  the  passes  of  Tarifa  and 
Chivela,  a  hot  spring  famed  in  this  section  of  the  Republic 
as  a  remedy  for  rheumatism,  scrofula,  syphilis,  and  skin  dis- 
eases. In  the  Pass  of  Chivela,  at  a  point  on  the  Rio  Verde  a 
short  distance  above  the  ford,  where  the  river  flows  between 
high  perpendicular  walls  of  limestone,  there  are  several  re- 
markable thermal  springs. 

What  the  Isthmus  lacks  in  metals  is  fully  compensated  for 
by  its  abundant  supply  of  good  building  stone.  The  Masahua 
and  Majada  ranges  of  the  divide  abound  in  blue  mountain 
limestone,  which  forms  everywhere  the  summits  of  the  ranges. 
In  fact,  soft  and  compact  blue  limestones,  porphyry,  syenite, 
and  granite,  not  only  abound  throughout  the  mountains  of  the 
divide,  but  may  be  quarried  as  needed  from  most  of  the  cerros 
which  dot  the  Pacific  plains.  Dani  Lieza,  at  Tehuantepec,  pro- 
duces a  beautiful  blue  limestone,  almost  as  hard  as  marble, 
specimens  of  which  may  be  seen  in  the  street  curbing  at  Salina 
Cruz;  and  the  finest  of  white  and  black  marbles  outcrop  at 
Chivela  and  Masahua  passes,  at  the  Convento  Hill,  and  in  the 
Cucumates  hills. 

But  the  greatest  mineral  wealth  so  far  discovered  in  this 
region  is  found  in  the  onyx  fields  which  lie  in  the  mountainous 


192  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

upper  portion  of  the  Tehuantepec  River  valley  and  along  the 
Tequisistlan,  a  tributary  of  that  stream.  Several  valuable 
fields  are  known  to  exist  in  that  locality,  and  it  is  probable  that 
more  will  be  brought  to  light  when  the  district  shall  have  been 
thoroughly  explored.  The  main  field  thus  far  developed  lies 
four  miles  above  Tequisistlan  on  the  river  of  that  name.  Onyx 
is  known  to  exist  here  over  an  area  of  about  1,000  acres,  lying 
close  to  the  surface,  so  as  to  require  but  little  stripping.  This 
onyx  is  much  superior  to  that  of  Lower  California,  bringing 
$7.50  per  cubic  foot  delivered  on  shipboard  at  Boston,  Mass., 
as  compared  with  $5  paid  for  the  Lower  California  article. 

These  quarries  are  located  at  a  distance  of  35  miles  from 
Tehuantepec,  the  nearest  railway  station.  There  are  lesser 
fields  12  miles  further  up  the  Tequisistlan  River,  also  at  the 
town  of  Tequisistlan,  and  at  a  point  on  the  Tehuantepec  River 
23  miles  above  Tehuantepec. 

The  principal  field  has  been  worked  for  a  considerable 
period.  In  the  four  or  five  years  immediately  preceding  1910 
some  30,000  cubic  feet  of  onyx  were  quarried  and  exported  to 
the  United  States.  In  1910  the  output  was  3,000  cubic  feet  and 
in  1912,  2,000  feet.  After  the  latter  date  no  shipments  were 
made,  the  fields  being  within  the  territory  dominated  by 
bandits. 

The  principal  obstacle  to  the  development  of  these  fields 
is  difficulty  of  transportation.  Up  to  the  present  all  onyx 
exported  has  been  hauled  a  distance  of  35  miles,  a  great  part 
of  the  way  over  rough  roads,  by  ox  cart,  to  the  railway  at 
Tehuantepec.  A  railway  is  projected  from  Oaxaca  City  to 
San  Geronimo,  but  this  will  pass  far  to  the  northeast  of  the 
fields  and  will  not  materially  shorten  the  haul.  It  would,  how- 
ever, be  quite  feasible  to  construct  a  narrow-gauge  line  from 
Tehuantepec  up  the  Tehuantepec  and  Tequisistlan  rivers  to 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     193 

the  onyx  fields.  Such  a  line  would  not  only  tap  these  quarries, 
but  would  also  secure  abundance  of  traffic  from  these  rich 
river  valleys. 

At  the  Tequisistlan  field  the  onyx  is  largely  of  the  superior 
white  and  pink  varieties,  the  remainder  being  sometimes  beau- 
tifully mottled.  The  size  obtainable  is  limited  only  by  trans- 
portation considerations.  With  the  present  facilities  it  is  not 
possible  to  bring  out  slabs  larger  than  3  by  6  feet,  with  a 
thickness  of  six  inches. 


MEXICAN  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 

The  metric  system  of  weights  and  measures  is  the  sole 
legal  system,  all  others  being  forbidden.  But  the  conserv- 
atism of  the  people  has  been  difficult  to  overcome  and  many 
of  the  old  Spanish  weights  and  measures  are  still  in  use.  The 
sitio  mayor  and  fanega,  for  instance,  are  in  common  use  for 
land  measurements;  while  the  carga  is  frequently  used  in 
market  quotations  and  commercial  transactions  for  corn, 
wheat,  beans,  etc.,  and  the  ton  is  used  for  salt,  corn,  coal,  and 
coke.  A  table  of  equivalents  follows. 

Mexican  Metric  Mexican  Metric 

Units  Equivalents  Units  Equivalents 

Linear  Measure  Weight 

Meters  Kilogram* 

Legua    4,190.00  Quintal   46.02 

Vara    83  Arroba    11-50 

Pie  .28  Libra 46 

Pulgada 02  Onza   28-76     grams 

Capacity,  Dry  Measure  Land  Measure 

Liters  Hectares 

Carga  181.62      Sitio  Mayor  Grande 1,755.61 

Fanega  90.81      Caballeria   42.79 

Almud  757      Fanega  de  sembradura  de 

Cuartillo 1.89         maiz   r 3.57 

Capacity,  Liquid 

Jarra 8.21 

Cuartillo 46 

Cuartillo,  for  oil 51 


194  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Official  units  of  ordinary  surface  measure  are  as  follows, 
in  metric  equivalents:  Vara  caudrada  (square  vara)  0.702244 
square  meters;  pie  cuadrada  (square  foot),  7.8027  square 
decimeters.  Official  metric  equivalents  of  units  of  volume 
are:  Vara  cubica,  0.58848  cubic  meters;  pie  cubico,  21.7956 
cubic  decimeters. 

CONSTITUTIONAL  PROVISIONS  AFFECTING 
FOREIGNERS. 

On  February  5,  1917,  a  new  constitution  was  promulgated 
which  attempted  a  radical  change  in  the  status  of  foreigners 
within  the  Republic.  The  Governments  of  the  United  States, 
Great  Britain,  France,  and  Holland  have  protested  vigorously 
against  the  decrees  since  from  time  to  time  issued  in  an 
attempt  to  enforce  the  objectionable  features  of  this  constitu- 
tion. Now  that  the  Carranza  government  has  been  over- 
thrown, it  is  questionable  whether  they  will  continue  to  be 
enforced.  The  two  articles  which  particularly  affect  for- 
eigners are  given  below : 

ART.  27.  The  ownership  of  lands  and  waters  within 
the  national  territory  is  vested  originally  in  the  nation, 
which  had  had  and  has  the  right  to  transmit  title  thereof 
to  private  persons,  thereby  constituting  private  property. 

Private  property  shall  not  be  expropriated  except  for 
cause  of  public  utility  and  by  means  of  indemnification. 

The  nation  shall  have  at  all  times  the  right  to  impose 
on  private  property  such  limitations  as  the  public  interest 
may  demand,  as  well  as  the  right  to  regulate  the  develop- 
ment of  natural  resources,  which  are  susceptible  of  appro- 
priation, in  order  to  conserve  them  and  equitably  to  dis- 
tribute the  public  wealth.  In  the  nation  is  vested  direct 
ownership  of  all  minerals,  petroleum,  and  hydrocarbons — 
solid,  liquid,  or  gaseous. 

Legal  capacity  to  acquire  ownership  of  lands  and 
waters  of  the  nation  shall  be  governed  by  the  following  pro- 
visions : 

1.    Only  Mexicans  by  birth  or  naturalization  and  Mex- 


INDUSTRIES  AND  FINANCIAL  OPPORTUNITIES     195 

lean  companies  have  the  right  to  acquire  rights  in  lands, 
waters  and  their  appurtenances  or  to  obtain  concessions  to 
develop  mines,  waters,  or  mineral  fuels  in  the  Republic  of 
Mexico.  The  nation  may  grant  the  same  right  to  for- 
eigners, provided  they  agree  before  the  department  of  for- 
eign affairs  to  be  considered  Mexicans  in  respect  to  such 
property,  and  accordingly  not  to  invoke  the  protection  of 
their  governments  in  respect  to  the  same,  under  penalty,  in 
case  of  breach,  of  forfeiture  to  the  nation  of  property  so 
acquired.  Within  a  zone  of  100  kilometers  (62.14  miles) 
from  the  frontiers  and  50  kilometers  (31.07  miles)  from 
the  sea  coast  no  foreigner  shall  under  any  conditions 
acquire  direct  ownership  of  lands  and  waters. 

ART.  33.  Foreigners  are  those  who  do  not  possess  the 
qualifications  prescribed  by  article  30.  (Citizenship  by 
birth  or  naturalization.)  They  shall  be  entitled  to  the 
rights  granted  by  chapter  1,  Title  I,  of  the  present  consti- 
tution; but  the  executive  shall  have  the  exclusive  right  to 
expel  from  the  Republic  forthwith  and  without  judicial 
process  any  foreigner  whose  presence  he  may  deem  inex- 
pedient. 


CHAPTER  XI. 
RISE  OF  THE  ZAPOTECS. 

DUE  southeast  of  the  City  of  Mexico,  some  two  hundred 
miles  as  the  crow  flies,  lies  that  grand  wilderness 
of  peaks  collectively  known  as  the  Mountains  of 
Oaxaca,  and  in  the  heart  of  these  mountains  lies  a  wonderful 
vale,  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca.  Situated  upon  the  seventeenth 
parallel  of  north  latitude  and  at  an  average  elevation  of  four 
thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  this  valley  enjoys  a  mild  tem- 
perate climate  excelled  by  but  few  localities.  Perpetual  spring 
reigns  there,  flowers  blossom  the  year  round,  and  the  exhub- 
erent  soil  produces  every  variety  of  grain  and  all  the  fruits 
of  the  temperate  zone. 

Allah  intended  this  wonderful  valley  to  be  the  home  of  a 
great  people,  and  such,  at  the  dawn  of  history,  we  find  it  to 
have  been.  The  origin  of  the  Zapotec  commonwealth,  the 
Didjazaa  of  the  Mexican  southland,  or  Zapotecapan  as  it  was 
called  by  the  people  of  Tenochtitlan  in  their  sweet  and  ex- 
pressive tongue,  is  shrouded  in  obscurity ;  but  if  the  traditions 
handed  down  by  the  Spanish  annalists  of  the  generation  suc- 
ceeding the  Conquest  are  to  be  believed,  as  early  as  the  twelfth 
century  of  the  Christian  era  the  Zapotecs  were  the  dominant 
race  in  that  region.  Their  numbers  at  that  time  could  not 
have  been  great;  they  were  at  the  beginning  of  their  career 
of  conquest,  and  for  some  generations  they  held  by  perpetual 
warfare  and  doubtful  tenure  the  valley  and  its  circumjacent 
mountains. 

But  as  time  passed  the  Zapotecs  waxed  strong  in  the  land. 

196 


Church  of  San  Pedro  Vixaana,  Tehuaiitepec.     The  Men  do  Not  go  Int 
the  Church  and  Have  an  Awning  for  Their  Comfort 


('hurdi  of  the  Laborio  at  Teliuantepec.,  The  Palms  Form  Part  of  the  Picture: 


RISE  OF  THE  ZAPOTECS  197 

Under  a  long  line  of  able  monarchs  they  widened  their  borders 
to  the  south  and  east  and  audaciously  attacked  the  indomin- 
able  Chontals  and  Mixes  in  their  mountain  fastnesses.  They 
built  watch-towers  against  the  power  of  their  brave  rivals,  the 
Mixtecs,  on  the  highest  mountains  of  their  frontiers,  and  the 
name  of  Zapotec  was  repeated  with  fear  and  admiration  from 
the  summits  of  Guaxolotitlan  and  Tilantongo  to  the  utmost 
rivers  of  Soconusco.  Teococuilco,  to  the  north,  and  the  far 
blue  mountains  of  remote  Ayoquesco  and  Miahuatlan  bowed 
to  their  yoke. 

Nor  imagine,  dear  reader,  that  the  Zapotecs  prevailed 
solely  by  force  of  arms.  Civilization  marched  with  their  arms. 
Whence  they  derived  the  rudiments  of  their  culture  we  know 
not;  but  it  is  certain  that  from  the  beginning  their  customs 
were  more  humane  than  those  of  the  surrounding  nations, 
and  that  their  laws  were  wiser  and  their  religious  rites  less 
indicative  of  superstition.  It  is  said  that  under  their  polity 
ecclesiastical  and  military  or  lay  affairs  were  not  confused  but 
were  administered  by  two  distinct  orders,  to  which  circum- 
stance the  priesthood  owed  a  preponderance  and  importance 
which  was  reflected  in  the  public  advancement.  Their  monu- 
ments at  Mitla,  Monte  Alban  and  elsewhere  are  mute  but  elo- 
quent witnesses  to  their  ancient  culture. 

Zaachila  Yoo,  called  by  the  Aztecs  Teotzapotlan,  was  the 
national  capital.  It  was  founded  about  the  year  1390  A.  D. 
by  the  able  ruler  Zaachila  I.  A  sort  of  second  Tenochtitlan 
it  was,  for  like  the  latter  it  sat  in  the  midst  of  a  great  lake, 
called  Roaloo,  where  the  waters  of  the  rivers  Atoyac,  Jalatlaco, 
Huayapan,  Tlacolula,  Mixtepec,  and  others  which  had  no  out- 
let to  the  south,  were  stopped  in  their  courses. 

A  high  rock  with  several  summits  arose  from  the  waters 
of  the  lake  and  on  this  Zaachila  I  ordered  the  construction  of 


198  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

his  castle.  We  are  told  that  this  castle  was  increased  in  height 
from  time  to  time,  additional  stories  being  added  in  proportion 
as  the  Zapotecs  won  victories  on  the  field  of  battle,  in  such 
fashion  that  by  the  time  of  the  Conquest  it  had  thirty-five 
stories,*  paved  and  beautifully  decorated. 

Eight  or  ten  years  later  the  citizens  of  Zaachila  contrived 
to  partly  drain  the  lake.  The  city  then  grew  rapidly  and  soon 
became  undisputed  mistress  of  the  valley  and  the  favorite 
abode  of  its  kings. 

This  was  indeed  the  era  of  national  grandeur  for  the  Za- 
potecs who,  thanks  to  the  teeming  population  of  their  capital 
and  the  soverign  influence  of  their  laws,  had  waxed  exceed- 
ingly rich  and  powerful.  Gazing  down  from  some  mountain 
height  overlooking  the  quiet  valley,  one  can  almost  imagine 
that  he  hears  the  shouts  of  their  warriors  and  the  echo  of 
their  folk-songs,  and  sees  the  haughty  plumed  lords  bedecked 
with  gold  and  precious  stones,  the  wide  expanse  of  cultivated 
fields,  delicious  gardens  resplendent  with  many-colored  flow- 
ers, and  wandering  among  them  the  daughters  of  the  valley, 
wondrously  fair. 

Alas !  For  a  century  and  a  half  the  city  prospered.  Beau- 
tiful and  free,  the  seat  of  a  benign  government  administered 
by  a  long  line  of  illustrious  monarchs,  Zaachila  shone  above 
the  silvery  waters  of  the  lake.  But  now,  alas,  how  changed ! 
The  scepter  has  departed  from  her.  Read  the  sad  words  of 
one  who  loved  her  greatly  and  bore  unwilling  witness  to  her 
decay : 

"I  have  passed  that  way  many  times  and  have  viewed  the 
remains  of  what  was  once  proud  Zaachila.  It  is  a  large  town 
still,  but  monotonous  and  without  grace.  How  different  from 

This  seems  incredible.  Possibly  the  castle  or  palace  was  built  in  ter- 
race form  up  the  side  of  the  hill,  after  the  manner  of  the  pueblos  of  New 
Mexico. 


RISE  OF  THE  ZAPOTECS  199 

that  city  in  the  days  of  her  glory !  It  lies  parched  and  barren, 
without  cultivated  fields,  and  its  people  are  but  the  shades  of 
what  they  once  were. 

"In  the  valley  of  Zaachila  I  found  but  two  lakes,  the  last 
remnants  of  the  great  Lake  Roaloo,  and  there  I  found  the 
white  heron  searching  for  its  nest,  for  night  was  approaching, 
even  as  it  came  for  the  lake  and  the  palace,  for  the  court  and 
for  its  fair  denizens,  for  their  glory  and  for  their  memory 
also." 

In  the  year  1487  the  celebrated  Cosijoeza  ascended  the 
throne  of  Teotzapotlan  upon  the  death  of  his  father,  Zaachila 
III.  A  wise  prince,  a  warrior  like  his  ancestors,  and  like 
them  a  statesman,  it  was  the  most  glorious  day  of  his  race 
and  country. 

Determined  to  preserve  the  national  independence,  he  im- 
mediately set  about  placing  the  country  on  such  a  war  foot- 
ing as  should  make  it  respected  by  its  neighbors  and  effectively 
protect  it  from  the  ambitious  designs  of  the  court  of  Tenoch- 
titlan.  By  these  measures  and  the  scholastic  instruction  which 
the  sons  of  the  nobles  had  from  ancient  times  received  at  the 
Quehuiquijezaa*  of  Tectipac,  he  instilled  patriotism  and  re- 
spect for  authority  among  the  masses,  so  that  all  loved  and 
obeyed  him  with  a  blind  devotion. 

Perplexed  by  the  continued  incursions  of  the  Aztecs,  he 
sat  on  a  certain  afternoon  in  April  of  the  year  1494,  pensive 
and  silent.  Presently  he  broke  the  silence.  "Alarii,"  he  said, 
turning  to  his  trusty  counselor,  "our  freedom  is  endangered. 
To  insure  our  independence  we  must  without  delay  drive  the 
Aztec  from  our  territories.  Methinks  I  hear  a  voice  crying : 

"The  national  college. 


200  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

'Declare  war  on  Mexico  and  make  the  Zapotecs  great  and  re- 
spected/ Harken,  my  friend;  the  hour  has  come  for  action, 
and  to  lead  up  to  open  hostility  I  have  chosen  two  points, 
Loolaa*  and  Liobaa.  The  first,  Huaxyacac,  detached  from 
the  service  of  Ahuitzotl,  will  aid  us  effectively,  and  the  second, 
Mitla,  once  she  becomes  interested  in  the  destruction  of  the 
Aztec  power,  will  place  all  her  forces  at  our  disposal.  Of 
course  they  will  be  the  first  victims  of  Ahuitzotl's  wrath,  but 
the  end  justifies  the  means." 

"Sir,"  answered  the  minister,  "while  your  plan  is  auda- 
cious, I  believe  it  can  be  put  through.  Make  your  instructions 
a  little  more  specific  and  I  will  answer  for  the  result." 

"Know  then,"  replied  the  king,  "that  a  caravan  of  Aztec 
merchants  is  now  on  its  way  from  Tuxtepec  and  should  pass 
by  Mitla.  There  they  must  die  at  the  hands  of  the  Huaxyac- 
atlecas,  or  even  of  our  own  people,  if  necessary,  secretly." 

"It  shall  be  as  you  desire,  Sir,"  Alarii  responded.  "You 
will  in  due  time  receive  word  that  the  Aztecs  have  passed  to 
the  better  world." 

Three  days  later  the  Aztec  merchants  were  slain.  Ahuit- 
zotl learned  of  this  from  certain  Chalcas,  also  merchants,  who, 
returning  from  Coatzacoalcos  and  passing  by  stealth  close  to 
Mitla,  saw  the  bodies  of  their  countrymen  lying  by  the  road- 
side. Indignant  at  this  act  of  barbarity,  he  called  in  council 
his  advisers  the  kings  of  Texcoco  and  Tlacopan  and,  war  being 
decided  upon,  set  out  from  Mexico  with  a  great  army  to  avenge 
the  affront. 

Reaching  Huaxyacac  he  arrayed  his  army  for  battle  and 
gave  the  order  to  assault.  The  columns  of  the  Aztecs  dashed 
furiously  upon  the  city.  They  joined  battle.  Blood  flowed  in 
torrents.  The  defense  was  heroic,  but  in  the  end  the  Aztecs 

*Loolaa,  the  Zapotec  name  for  Huaxyacac,  the  modern  Oaxaca. 


Three  Happy  Flower  Girls  of  Tehuantepec 


RISE  OF  THE  ZAPOTECS  201 

triumphed  and  in  characteristic  fashion  followed  up  their  suc- 
cess by  slaying  the  major  portion  of  the  inhabitants.  After 
this  massacre  Ahuitzotl  directed  his  forces  against  Mitla  and, 
not  encountering  a  vigorous  resistance,  set  fire  to  the  city, 
leveled  its  houses  with  the  ground,  and  put  a  great  part  of  the 
inhabitants  to  death  irrespective  of  age  or  sex.  The  sanctity 
of  her  temples  was  desecrated  by  the  slaughter  of  her  priests 
and  the  demolition  of  her  gods. 

Ahuitzotl  returned  from  Mitla  with  a  train  of  prisoners 
and,  passing  by  the  desolate  Huaxyacac,  directed  a  warning  to 
the  kings  of  Zaachila  and  Cuilapan  that  they  have  him  in 
respect.  From  this  point  he  dispatched  the  bulk  of  his  army 
in  the  direction  of  Tehuantepec,  Soconusco,  and  Guatemala  in 
command  of  Tlacochcalcatl,  and  himself  returned  toward  Mex- 
ico to  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  victory.  The  Zapotec  prisoners 
were  sacrificed  according  to  custom  at  the  feast  of  the  Aztec 
war-god. 

"King  Ahuitzotl  is  fast  bringing  my  plans  to  fruition," 
said  Cosijoeza  to  his  minister.  "He  has  slain  many  Zapotecs 
and  has  laid  Mitla  waste.  The  affront  which  he  sent  us  from 
Huaxyacac  can  be  washed  out  only  in  blood.  The  hearts  of 
the  people  are  moved  to  indignation  and  he  is  soon  to  learn 
that  the  sons  of  Petela*  may  not  be  trampled  upon  with  im- 
punity. 

"Leave  at  once  for  the  city  of  Achiutla  and  speak  with 
King  Dzahuindanda.  Advise  him  that  the  march  of  the  Mex- 
ican army  toward  Tehuantepec  affords  us  the  opportunity  to 
effect  its  annihilation,  for  distant  as  this  is  from  his  capital 
it  will  be  an  easy  matter  to  take  one  by  one  the  garrisons  which 
the  Aztec  general  leaves  behind  him.  Tell  him  that  to  make 

*Petela,  the  mythical  progenitor  of  the  Zapotec  race. 


202  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

the  event  certain  I  beg  that  he  lend  a  contingent  of  troops  to 
accompany  me  on  the  expedition,  during  which  the  forces  of 
the  Mixtecs  will  keep  order  in  Zaachila  Roo*  while  the  king- 
dom of  Achiutla  checks  and  drives  back  whatever  reinforce- 
ments may  come  from  Mexico." 

Alarii  departed  at  once  for  the  land  of  the  Mixtecs**  where 
he  conferred  with  Dzahuindanda  and  that  king,  an  ally  of  the 
Zapotec  monarch,  placed  subject  to  his  orders  24,000  war- 
riors commanded  by  twenty-four  valliant  captains.  These 
forces  united  to  those  of  the  Zapotecs  formed  a  total  of  60,000 
men,  with  which  army  Cosijoeza  set  out  for  the  southeast 
in  the  summer  of  1496.  As  had  been  foreseen,  one  after  an- 
other the  Aztec  garrisons  fell  before  them  and  the  terror  of 
their  name  spread  far  and  wide.  After  a  heroic  march  over 
two  mountain  ranges,  which  the  allies  surmounted  in  the  face 
of  the  enemy,  Cosijoeza  arrived  victorious  in  the  valley  of 
Tehuantepec.  The  strongly  fortified  city  of  Tehuantepec  was 
the  key  to  the  situation,  and  upon  its  possession  the  success 
of  the  enterprise  depended;  therefore  without  loss  of  time  he 
attacked  the  town  and  surrounding  heights,  winning  a  decisive 
victory  which  placed  him  in  possession  of  all  the  territory 
which  had  been  conquered  by  the  Aztecs. 

The  following  day  he  took  counsel  with  his  minister. 
"Alarii,"  he  said,  "thus  far  we  have  triumphed  over  our  ene- 
mies and  have  covered  ourselves  with  glory.  The  work  is  but 
half  done,  but  I  believe  we  have  the  strength  to  see  it  through 
to  the  end,  if  we  use  good  judgment.  Tlacochcalcatl  will 
shortly  return  from  the  direction  of  Guatemala,  and  Ahuitzotl 
will  send  his  best  troops  against  us.  We  must  therefore  choose 
our  position,  fortify  ourselves  strongly,  and  await  either  vic- 
tory or  death." 

*Teotzapotlan. 

**The  Zapotecs  and  Mixtecs    are    brother    races    speaking:    kindred 
tongues.  The  latter  dwell  in  western  Oaxaca. 


CHAPTER  XII. 
THE  DEFENSE  OF  QUIENGOLA. 

THE  next  day  Cosijoeza  and  Alarii  examined  the  field 
closely  and  chose  as  the  most  eligible  point  of  de- 
fense the  heights  of  Quiengola,*  a  peak  situated 
about  fifteen  miles  northwest  of  Tehuantepec  at  the  point 
where  the  Tehuantepec  River  bursts  forth  from  the  mountains. 

"Here,"  said  the  king  to  his  minister,  "shall  be  the  tomb 
of  the  bold  Mexican  who  thinks  to  enslave  the  Sons  of  Zaa- 
chila.  Command  that  the  crest  of  the  mountain  be  circum- 
scribed with  stone  walls  capable  of  resisting  any  force  how- 
ever great,  and  that  there  be  made  within  the  enclosure  great 
pools  of  water,  which  you  will  order  to  be  stocked  with  live 
fish.  In  forming  these  pools  you  will  utilize  so  far  as  possible 
the  springs  which  burst  forth  from  the  mountain.  Besides 
this,  lay  in  great  store  of  salt  meat,  corn,  beans,  chile,  and  pro- 
visions of  every  sort  against  a  siege  which  may  be  prolonged 
to  four  or  even  six  months ;  by  which  time  we  shall  have  come 
forth  victorious." 

"I  go  to  execute  your  commands,"  said  Alarii,  "and  you 
may  rest  assured  that  within  a  few  days  this  mountain  will  be 
converted  by  our  army  into  an  impregnable  fortress." 

"Arrange  also  with  the  towns  of  Nejapa  and  Quiegolani, 
that  they  supply  us  with  contingents  of  men,  provisions,  ar- 
rows, spears,  maces,  and  all  manner  of  arms,  so  that  the  de- 
fenders lack  for  nothing.  Direct  that  the  pass  of  the  Jalapa 
River  be  obstructed ;  and  finally,  see  that  our  troops  are  well 

*Quiengola,  "the  old  mountain"  as  the  word  signifies  in  Zapotecan. 


204  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

treated  and  thoroughly  instructed  as  to  their  duties.  In  all 
this  I  will  be  with  you  to  encourage  the  laborers  by  my 
example." 

While  these  preparations  were  under  way  those  of  the 
Aztecs  who  had  been  dispersed  during  the  recent  campaign 
made  their  way  as  best  they  could  back  to  Tenochtitlan  and 
notified  Ahuitzotl  of  the  distster  at  Tehuantepec.  The  despot 
could  not  conceive  it  possible  that  any  force,  however  strong, 
could  hold  out  against  the  invincible  might  of  Mexico,  and 
incensed  at  so  great  temerity,  arrayed  all  his  power  against 
the  overbold  Cosijoeza,  sending  against  him  his  most  famous 
captains  and  the  most  warlike  troops  of  his  empire.  So  cer- 
tain did  he  feel  of  triumph  that  as  his  warriors  set  out  he  is 
reputed  to  have  said:  "I  charge  you,  valiant  and  powerful 
champions,  that  you  take  this  fellow  Cosijoeza  alive  and  bring 
him  before  me,  that  I  may  punish  him  in  a  manner  commen- 
surate with  the  enormity  of  his  offense." 

A  few  days  later  Alarii  entered  the  king's  presence.  "Two 
messengers  have  arrived,"  said  he.  "What  news  do  they  bring?" 
"Dzahuindanda  sends  word  that  he  has  taken  the  field  in  per- 
son and  has  reached  the  neighborhood  of  the  forces  which 
Ahuitzotl  has  sent  against  us ;  and  the  Chiapanecs  advise  your 
majesty  that  Tlacochcalcatl  is  three  days'  journey  from 
Soconusco."*  "Tomorrow,  Alarii,  we  will  shut  ourselves  up 
within  Quiengola." 

The  following  day  the  king  with  all  his  army  marched  to 
Quiengola.  He  posted  the  Mixtecs,  to  the  number  of  20,000, 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Jalapa  River,  toward  the  north 
and  in  a  small  valley,  and  with  his  own  troops  entered  the 
fortress,  which  had  in  the  meantime  been  stocked  with  enor- 
mous piles  of  stones  to  be  cast  down  upon  the  enemy,  and  well 
supplied  with  arrows  and  poisoned  darts. 

*Soconusco;  the  littoral  of  Chiapas  next  the  Guatemalan  border. 


I 

a 


THE  DEFENSE  OF  QUIENGOLA  205 

"Here  we  die,"  he  cried,  addressing  his  men,  "before  we 
stain  the  honor  of  the  Zapotecs."  "Yes,  yes,  we  will  all  die," 
rejoined  the  multitude,  "before  we  surrender  to  the  tyrant  of 
Mexico." 

Four  days  later  the  Mexican  army  under  the  command 
of  Tlacatecatl  appeared  before  Quiengola. 

"To  arms,  brave  warriors,"  cried  Cosijoeza;  "to  arms," 
repeated  the  captains  of  the  host;  "Long  live  Zaachila!"  cried 
Alarii;  and  all  the  multitude  answered  "Viva!"  The  fire  of 
patriotism  burned  in  the  hearts  of  the  noble  Zapotecs  who, 
eager  for  battle,  awaited  the  assault  upon  the  fortress  that 
they  might  measure  strength  with  the  enemy. 

But  the  army  of  the  Aztecs,  exhausted  by  its  march  of  one 
hundred  and  thirty-five  leagues,  determined  to  merely  camp 
for  the  time  being  by  the  springs  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 
Indeed  they  felt  but  little  inclined  to  storm  the  fastness,  for 
the  dizzy  height  above  them  and  the  martial  air  of  its  de- 
fenders filled  the  hearts  of  the  most  valiant  with  terror.  For 
the  first  time  in  their  career  of  conquest  they  realized  that  the 
issue  was  doubtful. 

Besides,  many  soldiers  had  arrived  sick  and  others  were 
beginning  to  feel  indisposed  from  breathing  the  sultry  atmos- 
phere of  the  Isthmus.  For  this  reason,  and  in  order  not  to 
stake  all  upon  the  issues  of  a  single  battle,  the  Aztec  generals 
resolved  not  to  attack,  but  to  reduce  the  defenders  by  hunger. 
"By  proceeding  in  this  manner,"  said  Tlacatecatl,  "we  reserve 
our  strength  until  the  troops  under  Tlacochcalcatl,  now  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Cuauhtemallan  and  returning  by  forced 
marches,  are  able  to  unite  with  us.  Thus  we  make  certain  the 
favorable  termination  of  the  campaign." 

For  some  days  the  two  armies  watched  each  other,  noth- 
ing occurring  save  certain  unimportant  skirmishes  between 


206  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

the  advance  guards  of  either  side.  The  Mexicans  completely 
surrounded  the  mountain,  precluding  all  ingress  and  egress, 
while  the  Zapotecs,  descending  from  time  to  time  by  secret 
paths,  fell  suddenly  upon  the  enemy.  Every  day  the  enemy 
returned  to  the  attack  and  when  night  fell,  leaving  a  strong 
guard,  returning  to  their  camp.  One  night  when  they  were 
least  expected  the  Zapotecs,  who  had  noted  this  latter  practice, 
fell  upon  the  guard  in  its  camp  with  such  suddenness  that  the 
guard  with  difficulty  avoided  a  total  rout.  The  Zapotecs 
had  descended  so  stealthily  that  the  Aztecs  were  hardly  aware 
of  the  movement  before  they  were  upon  them. 

After  this  incident  the  Aztecs  observed  the  strictest  vigi- 
lence  but  this  did  not  prevent  the  Zapotecs  from  sallying  forth 
and  attacking  them  again  and  again  with  equal  surprise  and 
great  havoc.  In  these  sallies  it  was  their  custom  to  divide  the 
sallying  party  into  two  sections,  so  that  when  the  vanguard 
was  in  the  thick  of  the  fight  the  rearguard  could  throw  its 
weight  into  the  balance. 

Cosijoeza  was  never-failing  in  stratagems  which  were  in- 
variably successful  because  they  were  the  creations  of  his  own 
fertile  invention.  Frequently  while  one  portion  of  his  forces 
feigned  a  retreat,  he  with  the  other  part  would  creep  through 
the  woods  and  ravines  and,  falling  suddenly  upon  the  Mexican 
flank,  surprise  the  enemy  with  frightful  slaughter. 

Thus  the  conflict  continued  day  by  day  until  presently 
the  Mexicans  found  that  they  had  lost  half  their  men,  without 
counting  the  sick  and  wounded  who,  far  from  being  of  service 
to  the  army,  were  a  burden  upon  them.  And  besides  the  Za- 
potecs, though  they  were  unable  to  raise  the  siege,  took  the 
bodies  of  the  dead  Aztecs  from  the  field  of  battle,  salted  and 
dried  the  meat,  and  thus  replenished  their  stock  of  provisions.* 

*Very  possibly  it  is  to  conditions  such  as  this  that  we  are  to  look  for 
the  origin  of  cannibalism.    Besieged  bodies  of  barbarians  must  have  been 


THE  DEFENSE  OF  QUIENGOLA  207 

To  a  wounded  captain  whom  they  captured  they  displayed 
a  sort  of  bastion  which  they  had  constructed  from  the  skulls 
and  other  bones  of  the  Aztecs,  whose  flesh  converted  into  dried 
beef,  they  assured  him,  was  already  in  their  storehouses.  Then 
they  set  him  at  liberty  that  he  might  regale  his  comrades  with 
the  tale  of  what  he  had  seen  and  heard. 

The  siege  dragged  on;  the  Aztecs  being  neither  able  to 
take  the  stronghold  alone  nor  when  joined  by  the  forces  from 
Guatemala  for  whom  they  had  been  waiting.  Within  the  space 
of  seven  months  (from  March  to  September,  1497),*  three 
times  considerable  reinforcements  had  been  sent  from  Tenoch- 
titlan,  but  had  been  unable  to  force  the  passes  and  reach  the 
valley  of  Tehuantepec. 

Ahuitzotl,  seeing  that  he  could  not  take  Quiengola,  that 
his  army  was  rapidly  melting  away,  as  well  from  the  ravages 
of  war  as  because  of  the  diseases  which  decimated  its  ranks, 
and  that  force  acomplished  nothing,  instructed  Moctezuma, 
commander-in-chief  of  his  armies,  to  open  negotiations,  pro- 
posing peace  to  Cosijoeza  upon  advantageous  terms.  Moc- 
tezuma accordingly  sent  a  herald  to  Cosijoeza,  who,  on  being 
brought  into  the  camp,  thus  addressed  the  Zapotec  monarch : 

"May  the  gods  protect  you,  valiant  and  fortunate  mon- 
arch. On  behalf  of  my  king  I  come  to  propose  peace  between 
Aztec  and  Zapotec.  Convinced  of  your  military  prowess  and 
approved  valor,  Ahuitzotl  offers  you  as  a  pledge  of  his  endur- 
ing friendship  the  hand  of  his  fairest  daughter.  I  beg  you  to 
accept  of  this  princely  offer  and  also  of  this  little  token  of  his 

often  reduced  to  this  extremity.  What  more  natural  than  that,  finding 
the  flesh  pleasant  to  the  taste,  they  were  led  to  a  repetition  of  the  un- 
natural repast  and,  the  taste  once  acquired,  waged  battle  for  the  sole  pur- 
pose of  gratifying  it.  Considering  the  courageous  defenses  which  pre- 
ceded these  resorts  to  cannibalism,  we  can  well  understand  how  the  belief 
arose  that  the  eating  of  the  enemy's  flesh  imparted  courage. 

*0n  the  authority  of  Manuel  Gracida  of  Oaxaca,  to  whose  excellent 
treatise  we  are  indebted  for  much  of  this  narrative. 


208  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

regard,  a  drum  and  a  shield  of  gold,  and  know  that  he  will 
ever  respect  your  dominions  and  conquests,  won  on  the  field 
of  honor  and  in  just  reprisal." 

"Noble  Aztec,"  Cosijoeza  answered,  "I  am  greatly  pleased 
to  learn  that  your  lord  esteems  alike  the  cause  which  I  defend 
and  my  valor,  and  yet  more  pleased  with  the  pledge  of  peace 
which  he  tenders.  You  will  please  inform  him  that,  notwith- 
standing the  misgivings  with  which  his  conduct  have  inspired 
me,  I  accept  his  friendship  and  the  hand  of  his  beloved  daugh- 
ter, of  whose  virtue  and  beauty  I  know  only  by  common  fame." 

"Besides,  noble  sir,"  continued  the  herald,  "my  general 
has  charged  me  to  bid  you  send  an  embassy  to  the  court  of 
Mexico  to  demand  the  future  queen  of  Zapoteca,  where  in  con- 
firmation of  the  treaty  she  will  be  delivered  to  you  by  the 
emperor." 

"Very  well,  captain,  inform  your  general  that  from  today 
hostilities  will  be  suspended,  and  that  he  may  return  to  his 
country  without  fear  of  molestation,  as  I  will  send  instructions 
to  my  people  and  allies  that  no  attack  be  made  upon  his  army." 

As  final  arrangements  for  celebration  of  the  marriage 
were  bound  to  be  delayed  by  reason  of  Ahuitzotl  being  at  so 
great  a  distance,  Cosijoeza,  not  wishing  to  waste  time,  took  a 
part  of  his  troops  and,  proceeding  by  way  of  the  seacoast,  con- 
quered for  himself  the  province  of  Soconusco  with  the  tribu- 
tary district  of  Tonala,  through  which  the  Aztec  arms  had 
passed,  and  returned  to  his  place  of  encampment  laden  with 
spoil. 

Cosijoeza  shortly  afterward  established  himself  at  Te- 
huantepec  for  the  purpose  of  recuperating  from  the  fatigues 
of  the  campaign  and  also  to  organize  the  new  territory  which 
he  had  just  added  to  his  dominions.  While  there  a  rumor 


THE  DEFENSE  OF  QUIENGOLA  209 

reached  him  that  Ahuitzotl  had  some  covert  design  in  view  in 
suggesting  a  matrimonial  alliance. 

"What  is  your  opinion  of  the  matter?"  he  asked  of  his 
counselor. 

"My  lord,"  answered  Alarii,  "it  is  well  to  proceed  cir- 
cumspectly in  such  a  delicate  matter.  AhuitzotPs  pride  has 
been  wounded,  and  he  is  capable  of  any  baseness  which  will 
enable  him  to  outwit  one  who  has  beaten  him." 

"Then,"  said  Cosijoeza,  "we  had  best  appear  pleased  with 
the  prospect  of  marriage  and  in  the  meantime  watch  narrowly 
the  conduct  of  our  future  father-in-law. " 

This  resolution  could  not  be  concealed  from  the  keen  mind 
of  Ahuitzotl,  who,  to  avoid  the  demands  which  Cosijoeza  might 
make,  called  on  his  enchanters  and  wizards,  and  commanded 
them  to  find  before  his  eyes  and  those  of  his  seductive  daugh- 
ter, some  means  of  withdrawing  from  the  proposed  alliance. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
THE  QUEEN  OF  ZAPOTECA. 

AS  King  Cosijoeza  was  taking  a  bath  one  January  morn- 
ing at  a  certain  spring  embowered  within  a  shady 
grove,  called  the  Pool  of  the  Marchioness*  from  the 
magnificent  view  and  pleasant  recreation  which  it  afforded, 
there  appeared  before  him  a  maiden  of  such  wondrous  beauty, 
grace,  and  gentleness  as  to  fairly  deprive  him  for  the  time 
being  of  the  power  of  speech.  Recovering  himself  presently, 
he  thus  accosted  her : 

"Who  art  thou,  beautiful  maiden,  and  what  wouldst  thou 
of  me?" 

The  maiden  replied:  "Happy  mortal,  unconquerable 
leader  of  men,  shield  of  thy  country,  thou  who  art  the  thun- 
derbolt in  battle,  that  killeth  when  thou  breaketh  forth  in  fury, 
great  prince,  I  salute  thee. 

"I  am  Coyolicaltzin,  most  beloved  daughter  of  the  em- 
porer  Ahuitzotl,  chosen  by  him  to  wed  with  thee.  Drawn  by 
your  fame,  the  echoes  of  which  reverberate  through  the  forests 
and  mountains,  and  feeling  the  sacred  fire  of  love  burning  in 
my  breast,  longing  to  meet  thee,  I  besought  the  gods  with 
fervent  supplication  that  I  might  be  -  conducted  into  thy 
presence. 

"The  propitious  gods  heard  my  prayers.  First  they 
mitigated  the  violence  of  my  passion ;  then  they  wrapped  me 
in  a  white  cloud  and  lovingly  said,  'Go  quickly  and  meet  thy 
future  spouse/  In  divine  ecstasy  sunk,  I  felt  myself  trans- 
lated. Like  a  flash  of  light  I  compassed  flowery  plains  and 

*This  place,  which  is  near  the  town  of  Laollaga  about  seven  leagues 
north  of  Tehuantepec,  is  called  in  the  Zapotec  language  Niza  Rindani. 

210 


THE  QUEEN  OF  ZAPOTECA  211 

precipitous  mountains  whose  surface  my  foot  scarce  touched ; 
and  presently,  floating  through  space,  I  reached  this  river. 
'Enter  here,'  the  gods  whispered  to  me,  'and  thou  shalt  find 
the  object  of  thy  love.'* 

"I  penetrated  to  this  spot  and,  enraptured,  felt  the  gentle 
call  of  love.  My  eyes  were  reflected  in  yours,  and  behold,  that 
which  I  sought  and  in  my  sorrow  thought  to  have  lost,  was 
found." 

Cosijoeza,  fairly  caught  in  the  net  of  love,  interrupted  the 
gentle  damsel:  "Coyolicaltzin,  sweet  Mexican  princess  that 
shouldst  be  queen  of  beauty,  blest  of  the  gods,  what  brought 
thee  to  my  presence?"  Then,  beginning  to  doubt  the  evidence 
of  his  senses  and  overcome  with  conflicting  emotions,  he  cried, 
"0  thou  in  face  and  form  more  perfect  than  the  moon  when 
fullest,  art  thou  a  phantasm  and  do  I  but  behold  in  a  delirium 
that  which  I  seem  to  see?  But  no — be  thou  enchantress,  dis- 
embodied spirit,  or  woman,  I  call  thee  blessed." 

"Behold  thou  art  in  thy  bath,  master  of  my  heart,"  re- 
sponded the  future  queen  of  Zapoteca  and,  putting  aside  the 
articles  which  she  had  brought  for  her  adornment,  she  pro- 
duced a  bar  of  perfumed  soap  such  as  her  father  was  want 
to  use  and,  commencing  to  pour  water  upon  him  from  a  golden 
cup,  bathed  him  with  her  own  hands. 

"Now  you  see,"  she  said  to  the  king  in  an  endearing  and 
persuasive  voice,  "I  am  a  woman.  Are  you  convinced?  I  did 
not  appear  to  you  by  incantation  from  beneath  the  bubbling 
waters  of  the  spring.  The  gods  brought  me  from  Anahuac, 
even  as  I  have  told  you." 

The  king  being  now  thoroughly  satisfied  that  the  lovely 
creature  was  flesh  and  blood  and  no  other  than  his  intended 

*For  this  portion  of  the  narrative  we  are  greatly  indebted  to  Eduardo 
del  Valle,  author  of  the  poem  "Coyolicaltzin." 


212  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

spouse,  the  royal  personages  laid  aside  their  heroics  and  pro- 
ceeded to  discuss  very  prosaically  their  contemplated  union. 
"I,"  said  Coyolica,*  "wish  the  wedding  to  be  celebrated  with 
greater  magnificence  than  has  even  been  seen  before."  "And 
I,"  answered  Cosijoeza,  "want  it  to  be  celebrated  as  soon  as 
possible." 

"Calm  yourself  and  heed  me  well,"  she  said.  "That  same 
sentiment  of  love  with  which  my  presence  has  inspired  you 
burns  also  in  my  bosom.  But  you  being  my  father's  enemy, 
this  love  which  today  blesses  me,  aforetime,  I  confess  to  you, 
terrified  me  greatly,  for  a  mysterious  voice  ever  whispered  in 
my  ear,  telling  me  that  that  of  which  I  dreamed  would  never 
come  to  pass.  But  my  father,  whose  name  has  so  long  spread 
terror  and  dismay  far  beyond  the  borders  of  Anahuac,  has  at 
last  grown  tired  of  war  and  now  offers  you  his  powerful 
friendship.  If  you  can  succeed  in  obtaining  that  boon  of  him, 
I  will  seal  it  with  my  hand  and  thus  the  future  of  our  mutual 
love  will  be  assured." 

Cosijoeza  was  so  affected  by  these  words  from  the  lips  of 
his  beloved  that  he  vehemently  declared :  "Princess,  I  am  bound 
captive  by  my  love  for  you  and  will  treat  with  your  father, 
free  from  all  anger  and  ranchor.  I  will  at  once  send  embas- 
sadors  with  proposals  of  peace  and  a  demand  for  your  hand." 

He  spoke,  and  fixing  his  bright  eyes  upon  the  object  of 
his  love,  enveloped  her  in  the  effulgence  of  his  tenderness ;  took 
her  little  hand,  lifted  it  to  his  lips,  and  released  it,  all  in  a 
sweet  rapture.  Thus  in  silence  the  two  palpitating  hearts  were 
joined,  and  the  souls  of  the  two  were  melted  in  heavenly  ten- 
derness. 

The  bath  and  interview  concluded,  the  princess  upon 
taking  leave  showed  him  a  birthmark  on  her  right  arm,  say- 

*Out  of  consideration  for  the  reader's  feelings  we  take  the  liberty 
of  cutting  down  the  fair  one's  name  to  manageable  proportions. 


&>> 
§ 


l 

C3  •-^' 
O 
O    0) 


THE  QUEEN  OF  ZAPOTECA  213 

ing:  "This  shall  be  the  sign  by  which  your  ambassadors  will 
be  able  to  recognize  me  at  the  palace,  for  it  may  happen,  as 
my  father  loves  me  greatly,  that  he  will  refuse  to  deliver  me ; 
for  you  know  from  experience  that  one  cannot  be  sure  of  the 
loyalty  of  a  supposedly  reconciled  but  treacherous  rival.  Fare- 
well. My  love,  which  will  prove  your  fortune  in  the  days  to 
come,  will  safeguard  your  ambassadors  in  the  Mexican  domin- 
ions. Farewell." 

"Abide  in  peace,"  said  the  genii  who,  suddenly  appearing, 
snatched  up  the  lady  and  bore  her  away  through  the  air  to 
her  native  land. 

The  king,  enamored  of  Coyolica's  beauty  and  simplicity 
of  character,  left  the  bath  to  inform  his  confidants  of  the  extra- 
ordinary event  which  had  just  transpired.  All  listened  in 
amazement. 

"The  princess  and  I  have  agreed,"  he  concluded,  turning 
to  Alarii,  "to  celebrate  our  nuptials  with  all  haste  and  in  the 
most  splendid  manner,  in  keeping  with  our  exalted  station." 
"Love  conquers  all  things,  my  king,"  answered  the  minister, 
"and  if  the  princess  be  true  to  you,  her  constancy  will  prove 
a  wall  against  which  the  machinations  of  Ahuitzotl  will  be 
dashed  in  pieces." 

"So  I  think,"  responded  Cosijoeza,  "and  in  proof  of  my 
confidence  I  have  decided  that  you  go  as  embassador  to  Tenoch- 
titlan.  You  will  leave  within  three  days,  taking  with  you  a 
rich  present  for  Ahuitzotl,  from  whom  you  will  ask  In  my 
name  the  hand  of  Coyolica.  The  most  renowned  of  our  nobles 
will  accompany  you  to  heighten  the  brilliancy  of  the  embassy." 

"I  thank  you,  my  lord,"  Alarii  replied,  "for  this  fresh 
proof  of  your  regard.  Count  ever  on  my  loyalty,  which  seeks 
only  the  welfare  of  king  and  country." 


214  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

The  embassy  left  Tehuantepec  on  January  15,  1498,  and 
from  place  to  place  along  the  way,  by  order  of  the  king,  pro- 
vided that  magnificent  festivals  be  held  on  their  return  for 
the  reception  of  the  queen. 

Ahuitzotl,  who  had  received  notice  in  advance,  gave  orders 
that  his  capital  be  adorned  with  palm  branches,  flowers,  and 
aromatic  plants  to  receive  the  embassy  from  the  king  of  Za- 
poteca.  The  facades  of  the  temples  and  palaces  were  covered 
with  tapestries  of  zempaxochitl  in  token  that  the  city  was  pre- 
pared for  a  great  festival,  and  on  every  hand  pleasure  and  joy 
were  reflected  on  the  countenances  of  the  populace. 

Suddenly  a  great  shout  resounded  through  the  city;  a 
spontaneous  cry  in  which  the  people  voiced  their  approval  of 
the  proposed  alliance.  The  showy  Zapotec  cortege,  slowly 
crossing  the  eastern  causeway,  advanced  with  measured  pace 
toward  the  palace.  It  reached  its  destination  and  was  received 
at  the  door  by  a  deputation  of  Aztec  maidens  dressed  in  the 
most  exquisite  costumes. 

Installed  in  the  palace,  Alarii  asked  speech  with  the  em- 
peror that  he  might  state  the  mission  upon  which  he  had  been 
sent  by  his  king. 

Ahuitzotl  seated  on  his  throne,  surrounded  by  the  most 
select  of  the  Mexican  nobility,  awaited  the  embassy  of  his 
late  adversary  in  arms.  It  was  a  solemn  moment,  of  the  utmost 
importance  to  the  peace  of  those  two  powerful  nations.  The 
hoarse  blare  of  the  panhuehuetl  announced  to  the  people  that 
the  Zapotecan  suite  was  about  to  be  received  in  audience.  It 
came,  passing  between  serried  ranks  of  warriors  whose  cos- 
tumes mimicked,  now  the  wild  eagle,  anon  a  serpent,  and  again 
a  jaguar.  The  highpriest  leading  the  procession  introduced 
it  into  the  imperial  presence. 


THE  QUEEN  OF  ZAPOTECA  215 

The  assembled  suite,  in  the  presence  of  Ahuitzotl,  bowed 
low  in  token  of  reverence;  an  act  which  the  emperor  recog- 
nized with  all  courtesy. 

Then  the  embassador  spoke:  "Noble  lord  of  Anahuac, 
potent  ruler  of  the  great  and  flourishing  Mexican  empire,  be 
pleased  to  accept  this  token  of  friendship  from  the  king  of 
Didjazaa.*  And  at  a  sign  from  him  the  members  of  his  suite 
laid  their  rich  gifts  at  the  feet  of  the  emperor.  Then  Alarii 
turned  toward  the  throne  and  continued :  "Behold  here  in  this 
many-colored  featherwork,  stolen  by  the  birds  from  the  flow- 
ers, a  mantle  for  your  august  person ;  and  here,  0  prince,  by 
these  vases  of  resplendent  gold — a  magnificent  present — my 
lord  expresses  to  you  his  abiding  friendship.  He  accepts  the 
peace  proposed  by  you,  not  because  the  late  lamentable  war  has 
weakened  his  power,  for  thou  must  know  that  the  noble  Za- 
potecs  to  the  last  man  are  ever  ready  to  lay  down  their  lives 
for  their  native  land,  but  because  he  seeks  eternal  friendship 
between  Anahuac  and  Zapoteca." 

Ahuitzotl,  with  an  appearance  of  tranquility  concealing 
well  the  tumult  in  his  heart,  made  answer:  "Sir  embassador, 
I  accept  with  pleasure  this  magnanimous  gift  from  your 
valiant  lord  who  has  measured  strength  with  me  in  battle. 
That  peace  which  is  the  greatest  boon  of  nations  shall  be  from 
this  day  secure ;  to  that  I  pledge  my  sacred  word." 

"Your  majesty,"  said  Alarii,  "the  sure  pledge  of  that  alli- 
ance which  should  bind  the  Mexican  and  Zapotec  nations  in 
unity  is  found  in  the  hand  of  your  noble  daughter.  Deign  to 
consent  to  her  marriage  with  our  king,  who,  enamored  of 
her  grace,  asks  her  of  thee.  Neither  unworthy  thoughts  nor 
fear  for  the  future  have  impelled  him  to  take  this  step.  In 
this  matter  he  has  been  actuated  solely  by  love ;  of  that  I  can 
assure  you." 

*  Zapoteca,  the  country  of  the  Zapotecs. 


216  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

This  petition  troubled  Ahuitzotl  exceedingly.  His  face 
darkened  and  hard  words  came  to  his  lips,  but  he  stifled  them 
and  made  answer:  "Noble  Zapotec,  you  ask  what  is  dearer  to 
me  than  all  things  else,  but  I  have  not  tendered  my  friendship 
in  jest.  I  consent,  therefore,  to  the  marriage  of  my  daughter 
with  your  master." 

At  the  crafty  despot's  command  a  venerable  noble  hastily 
departed  to  bring  the  princesses  and  shortly  returned  with 
three  of  them  in  his  company.  Then  Ahuitzotl  turning  to 
Alarii  said,  "Behold  my  children.  All  three  are  young,  all 
three  are  beautiful  as  tender  roses  unfolding  with  the  first 
blush  of  spring,  all  possess  the  magic  reserve  of  ancient 
lineage,  and  each  of  them  has  the  imperial  pride ;  make  thou 
thy  choice." 

On  beholding  them  Alarii  wavered  in  perplexity.  "Are 
they  all  alike,  as  rumor  hath  it,  the  heavenly  faces  of  the 
daughters  of  Anahuac?"  he  muttered  to  himself.  Whereupon 
the  beautiful  Coyolica,  who  was  not  with  her  sisters  but  had  all 
this  time  been  sitting  beside  the  emperor,  made  a  pretense  of 
raising  her  hand  to  compose  her  coiffure  of  precious  jewels; 
by  this  means  discovering  to  the  wavering  envoy  the  birthmark 
upon  her  right  arm. 

At  this  sign,  regarding  which  the  embassador  had  been 
particularly  instructed,  he  turned  at  once  to  Ahuitzotl  and 
joyfully  exclaimed:  "The  princess  whom  my  king  selects  and 
whose  hand  he  demands,  is  this  lady." 

The  crafty  monarch  was  fairly  caught  in  his  own  toils. 
No  avenue  of  escape  was  open.  Wounded  to  the  heart's  core 
he  gazed  tenderly  upon  his  daughter,  faltering,  "Coyolica, 
innocent  and  pure,  my  sweet  child,  I  must  fulfill  my  promise 
though  it  wound  me  unto  death."  Addressing  the  court,  he 
added :  "My  idolized  daughter  is  the  pledge  of  peace.  I  will 


THE  QUEEN  OF  ZAPOTECA  217 

make  this  sacrifice  for  the  nation,"  and  presently,  turning  to 
Alarii :  "I  will  comply  like  a  Mexican  monarch.  I  resign  her 
to  your  king.  The  monarch  consents  and  the  father  blesses." 

A  three  days'  feast  followed;  on  the  fourth  the  embassy 
received  its  queen.  The  royal  suite  then  left  Tenochtitlan, 
carrying  their  sovereign  in  a  gorgeous  litter.  At  the  end  of 
each  day's  journey  she  was  received  with  becoming  pomp  by 
deputations  sent  out  for  that  purpose  by  Cosijoeza,  who  in 
this  manner  showed  his  wealth  and  power,  as  well  in  the  recep- 
tions which  he  accorded  his  affianced  as  in  the  nobles  who 
were  assigned  to  wait  upon  her. 

Twenty  days  later  the  queen  set  foot  upon  the  torrid  soil 
of  Tehuantepec,  and  there  the  brave  Cosijoeza  received  her 
with  a  splendid  cortege  which  astonished  the  Mexicans  who 
accompanied  her. 

"Great  lady,"  he  said,  "we  bid  you  welcome  to  your  future 
home.  Be  seated  at  my  side  and  look  upon  your  people,"  and 
turning  to  the  multitude  he  exhorted  them  to  thank  the  benign- 
ant gods  for  the  good  fortune  they  had  brought  to  the  children 
of  Zaachila.  "Here  you  have  the  precious  pledge  of  peace," 
he  said,  "which  secures  to  the  Zapotecs  their  autonomy  and 
their  conquests,  to  your  king  happiness  beyond  measure,  and 
to  his  people  the  tenderest  watchcare.  Let  us  ever  love  and 
respect  her." 

Coyolica,  naturally  modest  and  shy,  but  carried  away  by 
the  enthusiasm  of  the  occasion,  addressing  the  assembled 
nobles  and  people  from  her  seat  responded:  "You  behold  in 
me,  my  people,  not  the  queen  of  their  illustrious  race,  but  a 
mother  ever  ready  to  share  your  joys  and  console  you  in  your 
afflictions." 


218  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

After  this  the  solemn  marriage  ceremony  took  place  in 
accordance  with  the  forms  of  the  Zapotec  religion.  The  nup- 
tials were  the  occasion  of  universal  rejoicing  and  were  par- 
ticipated in  by  Zapotecs,  Mixtecs,  and  Aztecs  with  a  brilliancy 
and  magnificence  never  seen  at  former  feasts ;  Coyolica  being 
the  object  of  the  most  profound  demonstrations  of  respect  and 
homage,  as  well  at  the  court  of  Zaachila,  which  capital  cele- 
brated the  event  with  feasting  and  merriment,  as  throughout 
the  lesser  towns  of  the  kingdom. 

At  the  end  of  the  eight-days  festival  the  Aztecs  returned 
to  their  country  and  later  the  Mixtecs,  to  whom  Cosijoeza 
ceded  as  a  reward  for  their  services  a  place  near  Tehuantepec 
later  known  as  Mixtequilla,  following  in  this  matter  the  policy 
of  his  ancestors,  which  consisted  in  fulfilling  a  promise  in  such 
manner  that  while  the  other  party  was  not  altogether  de- 
frauded, neither  was  he  completely  satisfied.  This  measure 
displeased  the  Mixtecs,  who  a  few  years  later  abandoned  the 
site,  which  finally  became  incorporated  in  the  kingdom  of 
Tehuantepec. 

Cosijoeza  and  Coyolica  loved  each  other  greatly,  remained 
constant  to  one  another,  and  lived  a  happy  married  life. 

The  king  remained  for  a  considerable  time  at  Tehuan- 
tepec, enjoying  the  fruits  of  victory.  The  Zapotecs  in  the 
meantime,  pleased  with  the  fertile  plains  of  the  Isthmus,  took 
possession  of  the  lands  which  they  had  acquired  by  conquest, 
confining  the  Huaves,  the  original  possessors  of  the  soil,  to 
the  narrow  area  betwixt  the  great  lagoons  and  the  sea.  The 
Zapotecs  settled  the  country  eastward  to  the  limits  of  Chiapas, 
peopling  the  plains  with  that  population  ever  active,  restless, 
and  intelligent,  which  has  stirred  up  so  many  wars  through 
its  restlessness  and  indomitable  bravery.  These  Zapotecs  of 


THE  QUEEN  OF  ZAPOTECA  219 

the  plains  have  in  the  course  of  time  become  somewhat  differ- 
entiated from  those  of  the  highlands  in  speech  (they  speak  a 
dialect  slightly  different  from  the  mountaineers),  and  even 
more  in  style  of  dress,  but  they  are  still  essentially  one  people. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
COSIJOEZA  AND  AHUITZOTL. 

IN  October  of  the  year  1498  the  queen  gave  birth  to  a  son 
to  whom  was  given  the  name  Bitopaa,  that  is  to  say,  Son 
of  Delight.    The  child  died  while  very  young.    This  sad 
event  filled  with  sorrow  the  parents'  hearts,  which  a  little  be- 
fore had  overflowed  with  joy  as  they  fondled  the  first  fruit  of 
their  love.     For  this  reason  Cosijoeza  removed  to  Zaachila, 
leaving  at  Tehuan tepee  a  relative  in  charge  of  the  reins  of 
government. 

Ahuitzotl  in  the  meantime  being  free  from  the  cares  of 
war,  for  profound  peace  reigned  throughout  his  dominions, 
bethought  himself  that  the  time  had  come  for  putting  into 
effect  his  well-matured  plan  for  subjugating  the  Zapotecs  and 
sacrificing  Cosijoeza  on  the  altar  of  Huitzilopochtli.  The  re- 
membrance of  Quiengola  was  a  goad  which  tortured  his  pride, 
and  he  could  not  rest  while  his  glory  as  a  conqueror  remained 
eclipsed  by  the  popularity  of  that  famous  warrior,  who  he 
knew  had  by  his  valor  and  talents  raised  himself  to  an  equality 
with  the  greatest  heroes.  Vengeance  on  the  one  hand  and 
ambition  on  the  other  urging  him  to  war,  he  set  about  the  exe- 
cution of  his  plan,  in  which  he  counted  upon  the  filial  love  of 
Coyolica  to  aid  him. 

Calling  before  him  two  of  his  relatives  who  were  in  the 
public  service,  he  said:  "You  will  go  as  ambassadors  to  the 
court  of  Zaachila.  Here  is  a  magnificent  gift.  Take  it  and 
carry  it  to  my  son-in-law  Cosijoeza,  to  whom  you  will  state 
that  by  it  he  will  understand  how  much  I  esteem  him.  This 

220 


-g 


COSIJOEZA  AND  AHUITZOTL  221 

done,  you  will  beg  in  my  name  permission  for  the  passage  of 
my  troops  through  his  territories  in  the  direction  of  Chiapas 
and  Guatemala,  as  I  desire  to  conquer  those  provinces  and 
permanently  incorporate  them  with  my  dominions.  This 
granted,  you  will  thank  him  and  request  that  his  people  furnish 
the  necessary  supplies  for  the  army  en  route. 

"Besides  this,"  he  added,  "you  will  endeavor  to  Inform 
yourselves  as  to  the  resources,  power,  and  military  forces  at 
his  disposal,  for  you  understand  I  wish  to  avenge  myself  of  the 
defeat  which  I  suffered  at  Quiengola.  In  furtherance  of  this 
object  you  will  seek  private  audience  with  Coyolica  and  per- 
suade her  to  reveal  to  you  the  state  secrets  of  her  hubsand, 
what  the  nature  of  his  gods  may  be,  and  whatever  else  you  may 
judge  of  value  to  us.  In  revealing  these  things,  you  will  tell 
her,  she  will  aid  her  father  in  striking  his  greatest  enemy  a 
decisive  blow." 

The  ambassadors  bowed  low  and  departed  on  their  mis- 
sion. After  having  been  fourteen  days  on  the  road  they  reached 
Zaachila  and  being  announced  to  Cosijoeza  were  immediately 
brought  before  his  throne,  that  he  might  learn  of  them  the 
mission  with  which  they  had  been  entrusted  by  the  ruler  of 
Anahuac. 

"To  what  cause  do  I  owe  this  favor  from  the  sovereign  of 
Mexico,"  he  said. 

"Mighty  king,"  they  answered,  ^Ahuitzotl  sends  you  this 
present  in  testimony  of  his  friendship,  and  begs  that  you  will 
permit  the  troops  of  Anahuac  to  pass  through  your  dominions 
en  route  to  Chiapas  and  Guatemala,  provinces  which  he  desires 
to  annex  to  his  empire." 

"Noble  Aztecs,"  Cosijoeza  replied,  "in  the  name  of  my 
people  I  cordially  thank  your  lord  for  the  present  which  he 
has  been  pleased  to  send.  I  receive  this  token  of  friendship 


222  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

as  a  significant  pledge  of  our  alliance  and,  believe  me,  trust 
the  gods  will  grant  my  father-in-law  a  long  and  happy  life. 
But  as  to  the  request  of  the  ruler  of  Anahuac,  that  is  a  dif- 
ferent matter  and  must  be  determined  in  council,  for  which 
reason  I  cannot  make  answer  at  once.  As  it  will  be  some  days 
before  the  council  assembles,  I  beg  you  will  wait  at  court.  In 
the  meantime  we  will  take  the  matter  under  advisement." 

And  then  the  king  directed  that  the  ambassadors  be  quar- 
tered in  the  most  luxurious  apartments  of  the  palace,  in  view 
of  their  high  station. 

"It  would  seem,"  they  said  among  themselves,  for  they 
were  completely  deceived  by  the  benign  and  trustful,  air  of  the 
astute  king,  "that  the  gods  are  furthering  the  cause  of 
Ahuitzotl." 

Then,  taking  advantage  of  time  and  circumstance,  the  en- 
voys approached  Coyolica  and  said :  "Great  lady,  your  father 
has  confided  to  us  the  secret  mission  of  telling  you  that  he 
wishes  you  to  ply  Cosijoeza  with  your  witcheries  and  when  he  is 
in  a  trustful  mood  extort  from  him  the  secrets  of  what  are  his 
protecting  gods,  and  where  he  has  deposited  the  poisoned  arms 
which  caused  the  Aztec  army  such  torments  at  Quiengola ;  for 
the  end  he  has  in  view  is  to  pounce  precipitately  upon  the  un- 
prepared Zapotecs,  under  the  pretext  of  passing  through  to 
Chiapas,  seize  their  military  stores,  burn  them,  and  destroy 
the  arms.  In  order  that  we  may  effect  a  complete  surprise," 
they  added,  "you  must  observe  the  greatest  caution." 

Placed  between  father  and  husband  by  these  demands  on 
the  part  of  the  former,  the  queen  must  make  a  choice  and  make 
it  without  delay.  Not  at  first  seeing  a  way  of  escape  for  the 
dilemma,  she  replied :  "Give  me  a  little  time ;  I  will  not  Jong 
delay  my  answer,"  and  retiring  to  her  chamber  she  considered 
the  matter  in  her  heart. 


COSIJOEZA  AND  AHUITZOTL  223 

Resolved  to  do  only  that  which  was  right  she  decided  in 
favor  of  Cosijoeza  and  her  adopted  country,  and  calling  in  her 
husband  revealed  to  him  Ahuitzotl's  plot,  at  the  same  time 
begging  that  he  would  spare  the  ambassadors.  Fortunately 
the  king  was  not  of  a  bloodthirsty  turn.  He  listened  calmly 
to  the  disclosures  made  by  his  wife,  and  pleased  with  her  love 
and  fidelity  said :  "Dear  lady,  I  cordially  thank  you  for  having 
revealed  this  thing  to  me  and.  promise  you,  by  Bidoo,*  that 
all  shall  come  out  well." 

Cosijoeza  retired  to  his  chamber,  meditating  how  he  might 
frustrate  the  designs  of  his  father-in-law.  The  queen  remained 
in  her  own  room,  but  a  little  later  went  out  in  search  of  the 
ambassadors  and,  calling  them  aside,  addressed  them  as  fol- 
lows: "I  alone  know  your  mission.  Depart  and  save  your- 
selves ere  it  is  too  late.  Tell  my  father  that  while  I  am  his 
daughter  I  am  also  a  wife  and  queen." 

An  hour  after  the  interview  Cosijoeza  had  concerted  with 
Alarii  his  entire  plan  of  action.  Nothing  escaped  his  f  arseeing 
mind.  He  at  once  called  the  ambassadors  into  audience  and 
said  in  the  sweetest  and  most  ingratiating  manner:  "Know- 
ing that  time  hangs  heavily  on  your  hands,  I  have  arranged  for 
your  speedy  departure  from  this  court.  Receive  these  gifts 
which  1  bestow  upon  you,  and  inform  the  emperor  that  he 
may  count  upon  my  permission  for  the  passage  of  his  troops 
through  this  country,  but  that  he  may  not  avail  himself  of 
this  permission  until  he  receives  notice  from  me." 

The  ambassadors  thanked  Cosijoeza  for  his  great  kind- 
ness, and  departing  from  his  presence  left  Zaachila  hastily  and 
in  great  fear ;  for  the  treacherous  are  ever  the  most  fearful  of 
treachery.  They  believed  that  the  king  having  discovered  their 

*Bidop,  Bitoo,  Bitao.  A  Zapotec  divinity.  Signifies:  "God"  or  "Su- 
preme Being."  From  Bi  or  binni,  "being,"  and  doo,  too,  tao,  "great"  or 
"supreme."  Probably  a  corruption  of  Pitao. 


224  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

treachery  would,  if  they  failed  to  make  the  utmost  speed,  seize 
and  sacrifice  them  to  his  resentment. 

Arrived  at  Tenochtitlan  they  gave  account  to  their  mas- 
ter, who  listened  to  their  story  and  gave  orders  that  the  forces 
be  made  ready  for  the  campaign. 

Cosijoeza  without  loss  of  time  took  all  necessary  precau- 
tions and  prepared  for  the  war  which  appeared  inevitable. 
He  hastened  the  movement  of  regular  troops  to  the  frontier 
and  directed  that  the  walls  and  fortifications  of  Quiengola  be 
repaired.  Then  he  raised  fresh  levies  with  which  to  garrison 
the  strongholds  of  the  land.  The  public  storehouses  were  pro- 
visioned with  all  manner  of  foods  and  other  supplies  and, 
lastly,  store  of  new  arms  were  provided,  the  points  of  the  ar- 
rows being  touched  with  poison. 

When  all  these  preparations  had  been  made  to  his  satis- 
faction he  sent  word  to  Ahuitzotl  that  his  troops  might  pass 
through  the  country  on  their  way  to  Guatemala. 

Ahuitzotl,  directly  he  received  word  from  Cosijoeza, 
ordered  that  the  Aztec  army  begin  the  march  from  Mexico. 
Half  the  forces,  under  the  command  of  Tliltototl,  were  to  pass 
by  way  of  Tuxtepec,  Cosamaloapam,  and  Coatzacoalcos,  and 
thence  across  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec,  where  they  were  to 
await  orders ;  while  the  other  half,  led  by  Moctezuma,  were  to 
pass  by  the  defile  of  Cuicatlan  and  attack  Zaachila,  making  an 
end  of  Cosijoeza  whom  he  thought  to  be  totally  unprepared. 

The  first  army  overran  the  country  as  far  as  Jaltepec,  a 
place  peopled  by  Mixes,  and  reached  Amatlan  in  the  present 
state  of  Chiapas,  but  were  unable  to  take  Tehuantepec  which 
had  been  largely  reinforced. 

The  other  army  followed  the  direct  route  leading  to  the 
Valley  of  Oaxaca,  but  upon  entering  the  territories  of  Zaachila 
was  met  at  Loobanna,  the  modern  Etla,  by  a  Zapotec  army 


COSIJOEZA  AND  AHUITZOTL  225 

numbering  twenty  thousand,  which  received  it  with  due  honors 
and  joining  the  Mexicans  watched  closely  their  every  step  and 
movement.  Thus  Ahuitzotl,  who  had  thought  to  effect  a  sur- 
prise, was  himself  surprised  and  his  designs  frustrated.  His 
army  passed  through  the  land  without  being  molested  in  any 
manner,  but  with  many  misgivings  and  fears  and  constantly 
acompanied  by  the  Zapotec  forces,  who  did  not  leave  them  until 
they  had  passed  well  beyond  Tehuantepec  to  points  from  which 
they  could  not  menace  the  kingdom. 

These  events  occurred  in  the  year  1500.  If  the  fidelity 
and  love  which  the  wife  of  Cosijoeza  manifested  on  this  occa- 
sion was  admirable,  surely  no  less  so  was  the  prudence  of  that 
monarch  who,  far  from  taking  advantage  of  the  information 
he  had  secured  of  AhuitzotPs  perfidy,  to  destroy  his  armies, 
merely  took  the  necessary  steps  to  secure  himself  against  cer- 
tain ruin  without  shedding  a  drop  of  the  enemy's  blood,  pre- 
serving out  of  consideration  for  his  wife  the  most  friendly 
relations  with  the  ruler  of  Anahuac. 

While  Cosijoeza  was  thus  successful  in  his  plans  of  de- 
fense the  gods  favored  him  with  a  second  son,  whom  his  wife 
Coyolica  presented  to  him  in  the  year  1500.  The  advent  of 
this  child  was  celebrated  with  great  court  festivities,  as  well  on 
account  of  the  birth  of  an  heir  to  the  throne  of  Zaachila  as  for 
the  favorable  omens  which  preceded  his  birth.  He  was  named 
Naatipa,  the  Zapotec  equivalent  of  "Strong  Arm."  The  royal 
parents  kept  careful  watch  over  the  rearing  of  the  child  and 
at  the  end  of  two  years  were  rewarded  by  seeing  him  playing 
full  of  life  on  the  tufted  carpets  of  the  palace. 

About  this  time  the  queen  became  again  with  child.  As- 
surances to  this  effect  filled  the  court  with  joy  as  it  was  known 
that  the  king  had  determined  to  make  his  third  male  child 


226  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

king  of  Tehuantepec.  All  the  people  awaited  the  approaching 
birth  with  the  greatest  interest.  Everyone  hoped  that  the 
child  might  prove  a  male,  for  it  was  believed  that,  being 
related  to  the  Aztec  dynasty,  the  emperor  would  be  pleased  to 
see  his  grandson  seated  on  a  throne. 

But  in  the  midst  of  all  this  word  reached  Zaachila  that 
Ahuitzotl  had  expired  on  September  9,  1502.  Cosijoeza  for- 
getting his  resentment  mourned  the  death  of  his  father-in-law 
and  Coyolica  shed  many  tears  for  her  parent  and,  following 
the  ancient  custom,  celebrated  in  her  palace  the  prescribed 
funeral  rites.  The  court  and  principal  families  of  Zaachila 
joined  in  her  mourning  and  the  populace  hastened  to  assure 
her  of  their  profound  grief.  I  cannot  help  thinking  that  this 
must  have  been  largely  a  matter  of  good  breeding,  and  that 
inwardly  they  must  have  been  devoutly  thankful  that  the  old 
villain  was  dead. 

A  few  days  later  Moctezuma  II  sent  a  messenger  to  Cosi- 
joeza to  inform  him  that  he  had  ascended  the  throne  of 
Tenochtitlan.  He  answered  the  messenger,  congratulating  the 
Mexican  people  and  the  new  ruler  upon  the  happy  event. 

On  a  certain  cold  winter  night  there  suddenly  appeared 
against  the  dark  background  of  heaven  fiery  and  radiant 
flashes  of  light.  A  fantastic  flame-colored  vapor  hovered  on 
the  distant  horizon. 

"An  evil  portent,"  said  a  priest,  "the  child  about  to  be 
born  to  our  king  will  be  unhappy  and  unfortunate." 

"What  is  his  horoscope  ?"  asked  Alarii  of  the  priest. 

"Heaven  announces,"  he  replied,  "that  the  prince  will 
begin  his  reign  with  the  might  and  fury  of  the  thunderbolt,  and 
close  like  the  wind  vanishes  in  a  wail  of  sorrow." 

This  gloomy  prophecy  was  repeated  by  more  than  forty 
thousand  souls  who  at  Zaachila  gazed  in  amazement  at  the 


COSIJOEZA  AND  AHUITZOTL  227 

prodigy  in  the  heavens.  For  eight  consecutive  nights  the 
children  of  the  Valley  gazed  in  astonishment  at  the 
strange  portents  in  the  sky,  and  on  the  seventh  hour  of  the 
ninth  day,  December  30,  1502,  the  queen  gave  birth  to  the 
future  king  of  Tehuantepec. 

The  astrologers,  reassembling  to  interpret  the  omen,  de- 
clared that  the  prince  would  be  great  and  happy  during  the 
first  half  of  his  life,  that  he  would  reign  prosperously  and  be 
feared  and  respected  by  the  neighboring  nations;  but  that  in 
the  end,  through  an  unfortunate  succession  of  events  beyond 
his  control,  he  would  lose  his  power  and  his  throne. 

"The  gods  have  revealed  to  us,  sir,  that  the  name  of  your 
noble  son  will  resound  through  the  secluded  glens  and  hidden 
defiles  of  the  blue  mountains  of  our  allies/'  said  the  chief  priest 
to  the  king,  as  the  court,  all  in  gala  dress,  awaited  in  expecta- 
tion the  naming  of  the  new-born  babe. 

"I  fear  greatly,  Tiboot,"*  replied  the  king.  "Heaven  and 
the  gods  have  in  the  clearest  manner  foretold  the  misfortunes 
which  await  the  child.  By  this  token  his  name  shall  be  Flash 
of  Lightning,"  he  said,  and  the  whole  court  repeated  "Cosi- 
jopii!  Cosijopii!" 

A  malediction  had  fallen  upon  the  head  of  the  infant; 
upon  that  head  which  the  grand  ladies  of  the  palace  covered 
with  the  finest  linen  and  cloth  of  fine  cotton  bordered  with 
feathers  of  every  hue. 

Two  years  later,  in  1504,  the  beautiful  queen  gave  birth 
to  a  fine  daughter.  The  celestial  signs  which  preceded  her 
birth  were  favorable  and  the  soothsayers,  interpreting  the 
omens,  declared  that  the  princess  would  be  as  beautiful  as  the 
twilight  upon  the  western  sea  and  of  exceeding  virtue. 

*Pontiff— literally  "He  who  watched  over  the  dead. 


228  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

"Her  name,  her  name?"  cried  the  court. 

"Her  name?"  repeated  Tiboot. 

"Essence  of  Virtue,"  cried  the  king,  his  heart  bursting 
with  joy. 

"Pinopaa!  Pinopaa!"  repeated  the  nobility  with  loud 
clamor. 

The  customary  banquet,  at  which  the  king  received  the 
felicitations  of  his  people,  followed  the  ceremony. 


CHAPTER  XV. 
THE  MIXTEC  REVOLT. 

COSIJOEZA,  feared  and  respected  not  merely  for  his 
power  but  also  because  of  his  profound  statesman- 
ship, could  not  rest  so  long  as  the  Aztecs  retained  a 
colony  at  the  very  gates  of  Zaachila. 

"In  an  evil  hour  of  the  Thirteenth  of  June,  1486,"  he  said 
to  his  familiar,  "my  father  Zaachila  III  permitted  the  founda- 
tion of  Huaxyacac.  It  is  a  perpetual  menace,  a  spy  upon  our 
actions,  and  if  not  forestalled  may  become  in  time  the  mistress 
of  the  valley.  The  Mexicans  destroyed  the  city  in  1494,*  but 
a  few  months  since  Moctezuma  II  restored  the  fortifications 
under  the  pretext  of  passing  that  way  when  he  set  out  for 
Guatemala ;  and  this,  Alarii,  is  but  the  beginning  of  prepara- 
tions for  an  assault  upon  us.  We  must  not  hesitate  in  this 
matter,  for  decision  is  vital  to  the  safety  of  the  nation." 

"And  what  do  you  propose  doing?"  asked  the  minister. 

"Give  ear,  my  friend,  while  I  unfold  to  you  a  plan  which 
I  have  long  been  revolving  in  my  mind.  I  propose  that  the 
Mixtecs  make  an  end  of  the  garrison.  They,  as  you  know, 
are  ever  restive  under  the  Aztec  yoke  and  eager  to  cast  it  off. 
With  this  end  in  view  they  have  for  some  years  been  secretly 
preparing  for  war,  and  if  they  have  not  yet  arisen  in  open  re- 
volt it  is  because  they  imagine  they  cannot  count  upon  the  as- 
sistance of  the  King  of  Tututepec  or  upon  us  in  their  helpless 
condition. 

*The  Christian  annalist  has  here  substituted  the  Christian  chronologry 
for  that  of  the  Zapotecs. 

229 


230  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

"Now  we  must  induce  them  to  revolt  by  working  upon 
their  pride  and  patriotism  and  lending  material  assistance  to 
their  kings;  but  we  must  at  the  same  time  use  the  utmost 
caution  to  prevent  the  Aztecs  from  getting  wind  of  our  project. 
While  the  Mixtecs  and  Aztecs  slaughter  one-another,"  he  con- 
cluded, "we  will  wait  in  expectation,  but  to  all  appearances 
neutral.  By  this  means  we  will  prevent  our  enemies  from 
strengthening  Huaxyacac  and  besides  we  will  be  freed  from 
the  presence  of  their  troops,  who  are  continually  spying 
upon  us." 

Admiration  for  the  king's  sagacity  filled  the  soul  of  the 
minister.  "This  plan,  0  king,"  he  said,  "is  as  certain  of  suc- 
cess as  though  already  carried  out." 

Alarii  set  about  the  execution  of  the  plan  with  his  usual 
promptness  and  within  the  space  of  two  months  the  Mixtecs 
were  in  arms.  We  shall  see  the  result. 

Cetecpatl,  king  of  Coixtlahuaca,  and  Nahuilzochitl,  king 
of  Sosola,  were  the  leaders  who  stirred  up  the  people.  These 
leaders  possessed  considerable  resources  of  their  own,  and 
besides  they  counted  upon  the  aid  of  Dzahuindanda,  king  of 
Achiutla,  and  Casandoo,  king  of  Tututepec.  They  accordingly 
got  together  and  agreed  upon  a  plan  and  to  put  it  into  execu- 
tion devised  the  following  perfidy. 

Cetecpatl  held  a  feast  to  which  he  invited  the  chiefs  and 
headmen  of  the  Mexican  garrisons  adjacent  to  his  territories 
and  especially  that  at  Huaxyacac,  begging  that  they  would 
gather  at  his  palace  at  Coixtlahuaca  with  their  wives  and  chil- 
dren, as  he  desired  to  strengthen  the  bonds  of  friendship  which 
bound  him  to  them. 

All  who  were  invited  came  to  the  feast  without  the  least 
suspicion  of  treachery  and  were  received  by  the  Mixtecs  with 


THE  MIXTEC  REVOLT  231 

every  appearance  of  cordiality.  The  feast  over,  Cetecpatl 
bade  the  Huaxyacans  farewell  and  they  thanked  him  for  his 
kindness  and  took  their  departure.  They  set  forth  with  their 
families  in  the  direction  of  Huaxyacac,  discussing  the  late 
banquet  as  they  proceeded ;  going  on  their  way  joyfully,  totally 
oblivious  of  the  danger  which  menaced  them.  So  confident 
were  they,  in  fact,  that  they  had  not  even  provided  themselves 
with  arms  for  their  protection. 

They  stopped  for  the  night  at  Huauhtlilla,  and  the  next 
day  resumed  their  journey  in  the  same  order  as  on  the  day 
before.  Descending  through  Duhuacoo  (The  Pass  of  the 
Serpent) ,  since  called  the  Defile  of  San  Antonio,  as  they  were 
passing  through  the  narrowest  part  of  the  gorge  Nahuilzochitl 
with  his  men  fell  upon  them  from  ambush  and  slew  the  entire 
party. 

This  signal  act  of  perfidy  occurred  in  the  year  1506  and 
left  Huaxyacac  wellnigh  destitute  of  inhabitants;  the  main 
object  with  Cosijoeza,  who  desired  to  destroy  the  hated  Aztecs 
at  any  cost. 

Texacan,  the  king  of  Tlaxiaco,  advised  Moctezuma  of  the 
occurrence,  and  the  latter  after  taking  counsel  with  the  kings 
of  Texcoco  and  Tlacopan  sent  his  commander  Cuitlahuac  with 
a  great  army  to  take  vengeance  on  the  Mixtecs.  Cuitlahuac 
penetrated  the  enemy's  country  and  after  several  encounters, 
in  the  course  of  which  he  was  routed  by  Nahuilzochitl  in  the 
defiles  of  the  Pass  of  the  Serpent,  retired  to  Huauhtla  where 
he  surrendered  to  Cozcacuauhtli,  brother  of  Cetecpatl. 

This  ruler  of  the  Mazatecs,  a  man  of  a  mean  and  cowardly 
nature,  fearing  that  he  might  be  deposed  if  he  upheld  the 
revolt,  revealed  to  Cuitlahuac  the  designs  of  Cetecpatl  and  the 
other  Mixtec  lords,  assuring  him  that  he  had  taken  no  part 


232  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

in  the  plot.     Cuitlahuac  thanked  him  and  did  not  fail  to  act 
upon  the  information  thus  acquired. 

The  Mixtecs,  believing  that  the  enemy  had  retired  to 
Anahuac  to  return  presently  in  greater  strength,  placed  them- 
selves upon  a  war  footing,  formed  new  alliances,  and  fortified 
their  cities.  Nahuilzochitl,  the  soul  of  the  revolt,  even  made  a 
trip  to  Tututepec  to  urge  upon  Casandoo  and  his  people  the 
vital  importance  of  their  lending  assistance  to  preserve  the 
independence  of  the  Mixtecs.  At  this  time  it  was  generally 
believed  that  the  probalities  of  success  lay  with  the  Mixtecs 
and  this  ill-founded  belief  wellnigh  worked  the  ruin  of  their 
cause,  for  trusting  to  the  absence  of  the  Mexicans  certain 
chiefs  took  their  departure  from  the  center  of  operations,  leav- 
ing the  strongholds  well  guarded  and  intending  to  return  to 
the  strife  shortly  with  fresh  levies. 

In  the  meantime  Cuitlahuac,  far  from  desiring  to  return 
to  Mexico  in  dishonor,  had  merely  sent  word  to  Moctezuma 
requesting  reinforcements  and  the  latter,  hurt  in  his  pride,  at 
once  sent  to  Huauhtla  a  well-equipped  body  of  troops,  and  the 
campaign  was  opened  anew.  Following  the  counsel  of  Cozca- 
cuauhtli,  the  Aztec  general  now  marched  by  way  of  the  north- 
ern mountains  in  order  to  avoid  the  Sosoltecs  becoming  aware 
of  the  movement  of  his  army.  The  passage  was  accomplished 
without  discovery. 

Reaching  the  neighborhood  of  the  city  by  night  at  an  hour 
when  he  was  least  expected,  and  finding  the  Mixtecs  heedless 
of  danger  and  without  leaders,  he  arrayed  his  columns  in 
order  of  battle  and  assaulted  the  fortress  with  such  impetu- 
osity that  the  surprised  garrison  barely  had  time  to  seize  their 
arms  and  place  themselves  on  the  defensive ;  but  though  taken 
at  a  complete  disadvantage  the  Sosoltecs  fought  heroically, 
finally  compelling  Cuitlahuac  to  fall  back  toward  the  river 


THE  MIXTEC  REVOLT  233 

where  the  men  of  Huaxyacac  had  been  slain.  There  the  enemy, 
by  occupying  the  strong  positions  which  the  defile  afforded, 
were  able  to  save  themselves  from  annihilation.  The  slaughter 
was  great  on  both  sides. 

The  following  day  the  combat  was  renewed.  The  Mixtecs 
gave  battle,  assaulting  the  Mexicans  in  their  chosen  positions. 
Both  sides  fought  well  but  the  assailants  labored  at  a  dis- 
advantage, many  of  their  warriors  having  fallen  in  the  pre- 
vious night's  encounter  and  many  others  having,  as  we  nave 
mentioned,  gone  to  their  homes  in  the  belief  that  Cuitlahuac 
had  retired  toward  Mexico.  They  were  consequently  forced 
to  abandon  the  attempt  to  dislodge  the  Mexicans  from  their 
position,  and  therefore  retired  after  suffering  great  losses  to 
the  impregnable  fortress  of  Sosola. 

Nahuilxochitl  received  word  of  this  disaster  while  on  the 
road  from  Tututepec  with  strong  reinforcements  and,  hasten- 
ing his  progress  and  gathering  the  dispersed  as  he  went, 
reached  Sosola  and  offered  battle  to  Cuitlahuac.  The  engage- 
ment which  ensued  was  hotly  contested  and  sanguinary,  but 
as  one  defeat  opens  the  door  to  many  others  Nahuilzochitl 
was  repulsed  and  compelled  to  seek  refuge  within  the  walls  of 
Sosola.  A  part  of  his  warriors  were  dispersed,  some  fleeing 
down  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca  and  others  taking  to  the  mountains 
for  refuge. 

After  this  battle  the  Aztec  army  moved  against  Coix- 
tlahuaca  which  they  attacked  and  captured,  taking  Cetecpatl 
prisoner.  Him  they  carried  away  to  Tenochtitlan  with  other 
prisoners,  and  there,  after  they  had  compelled  him  to  divulge 
the  names  of  his  accomplices,  he  was  sacrificed  to  Huitzilo- 
pochtli. 

Having  placed  new  rulers  over  the  conquered  towns,  not- 
ably at  Coixtlahuaca,  where  Cozcacuauhtli  was  made  chief 


234  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

as  the  reward  for  his  treachery,  Cuitlahuac  dispatched  a  new 
garrison  to  Huaxyacac  which  was  now  peopled  for  the  third 
time,  placing  in  command  one  Tlacatetl,  a  man  of  great  valor 
and  administrative  talents. 

The  only  advantage  gained  by  the  Mexicans  as  the  result 
of  this  campaign  was  to  secure  a  free  passage  by  the  defile  of 
San  Antonio  to  Huaxyacac,  for  Nahuilzochitl  was  still  at  large, 
keeping  up  the  fight  with  a  handful  of  braves. 

The  territories  of  the  confederate  kings  of  Zaachila, 
Achiutla,  and  Tututepec  were  respected  by  the  conqueror  both 
because  of  the  strength  of  those  rulers  and  because  it  would 
have  been  imprudent  to  attack  them  in  their  positions,  com- 
promising the  safety  of  the  expeditionary  army.  Thoroughly 
comprehending  this,  Cuitlahuac  dissimulated  and  confined  his 
efforts  to  humiliating  them  through  their  allies. 

Knowing  that  Cuilapan,  a  Mixtec  town,  and  Tlacocha- 
huaya  and  Mitla,  Zapotec  towns,  had  lent  countenance  to  the 
rebellion,  he  moved  from  Coixtlahuaca  and  established  him- 
self in  Huaxyacac,  from  which  point  he  intimated  to  their  in- 
habitants that  they  would  be  declared  tributaries  of  the  Mex- 
ican empire  if  they  persisted  in  provoking  the  wrath  of  Moc- 
tezuma. 

This  done,  he  returned  to  Tenochtitlan  to  report  progress. 

"Events  are  shaping  themselves,"  said  Cosijoeza  to  his 
familiar.  "While  we  have  not  entirely  succeeded  in  our  plans, 
at  any  rate  one  thing  has  been  accomplished;  the  Aztecs  and 
Mixtecs  have  shed  one  another's  blood  and  are  exhausted, 
Huaxyacac  is  but  poorly  garrisoned,  and  we  can  afford  to  wait 
our  opportunity.  Our  garrison  in  Danni  Dipaa*  safeguards 
our  kingdom,  and  we  must  wait  in  patience  while  this  colony 
of  Loolaa**  grows,  if  the  gods  will." 

*Now  known  as  Monte  Alban. 
**Huaxyacac,  the  modern  city  of  Oaxaca. 


THE  MIXTEC  REVOLT  235 

"You  are  right,  my  lord,"  answered  Alarii,  "we  have 
triumphed  without  striking  a  blow.  True,  two  of  our  towns 
have  suffered  at  the  hands  of  Cuitlahuac,  but  it  is  as  the  snarl 
of  the  impotent  jaguar  that  is  unable  to  harm  the  skillful 
hunter." 

"Listen,"  replied  the  king,  "it  is  my  opinion,  and  I  believe 
you  will  find  it  to  be  correct,  that  Mitla  and  Tlacochahuaya 
are  treating  with  Nahuilzochitl,  which  means  further  war. 
The  people  are  becoming  more  and  more  wrought  up  over  the 
sanguinary  deeds  of  the  Aztecs." 

A  few  months  after  the  termination  of  the  war  between 
the  Mixtecs  and  the  Mexicans,  in  November  of  the  year  1506, 
Queen  Coyolica  gave  birth  to  a  daughter,  her  fifth  and  last 
child. 

"If  heaven  has  favored  this  royal  pair  with  issue,"  said 
Tiboot  to  those  present,  "it  has  also  made  their  joy  bitter, 
bringing  down  misfortune  upon  the  heads  of  their  descend- 
ants." 

"What  do  you  foresee?"  asked  the  king  of  the  pontiff. 

"Sir,"  he  answered,  "at  the  moment  when  your  daughter 
was  born  there  shone  upon  the  eastern  horizon  a  dazzling 
cloud,  while  at  the  zenith  there  appeared  a  portentious  cloud. 
These  signs  indicate  that  the  infant  is  the  precursor  of  un- 
toward events,  in  the  course  of  which,  through  love  for  her 
people,  she  will  be  sacrificed." 

"This  being  true,"  said  the  king,  "it  is  fitting  that  she 
be  called  Great-Soul." 

"Donaji!  Donaji!  Donaji!"*  repeated  the  court  with 
enthusiasm. 

"This  name  was  also  borne  by  a  daughter  of  King  Cosijopii,  who  after 
the  Conquest  was  known  as  Donna  Magdalena. 


236  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

The  customary  banquet  followed,  at  which  all  present 
expressed  the  hope  that  the  child  might  possess  that  virtue, 
beauty,  and  courage  essential  to  enable  her  to  accomplish  that 
which  the  gods  had  in  store  for  her,  be  it  what  it  might. 

In  the  year  1509  the  peace  was  again  broken.  The  people 
of  Yanhuitlan  and  Sosola,  making  common  cause  with  Mitla, 
broke  out  in  open  war  against  Mexico.  Cosijoeza,  who  saw  in 
this  the  final  attainment  of  his  desires,  merely  limited  himself 
to  guiding  by  covert  means  the  policy  of  the  rebellious  towns. 

"What  do  you  think  of  this  new  war?"  he  asked  of  Alarii. 
"I  believe,  sir,"  answered  the  minister,  "that  it  will  not  result 
in  profit  to  its  promoters.  Nahuilzochitl  is  a  brave  and  active 
warrior  but  he  stands  alone,  for  the  king  of  Achiutla  takes 
no  part  nor  does  the  king  of  Tututepec." 

"I  am  of  the  same  opinion,"  said  the  king,  "I  expect  noth- 
ing more  than  that  Mitla  will  be  the  victim  of  this  ill-starred 
revolt.  Counting  on  her  own  naked  strength  and  without  first 
securing  promise  of  aid  from  the  lords  of  Tlacochahuaya  and 
Macuilzochitl,  she  has  precipitated  the  revolt  without  being 
assured  of  further  help  from  us  than  such  as  we  are  bound 
to  give  her  agreeably  to  the  policy  of  my  ancestors ;  that  is  to 
say,  that  of  taking  such  steps  as  are  necessary  to  safeguard 
our  own  interest.  If  by  misfortune  Mitla  should  be  conquered 
and  the  Mexicans  attempt  to  impose  tribute  upon  her; — this, 
Alarii,  I  will  never  consent  to.  No  town  of  our  confederacy 
shall  ever  be  subjected  to  tribute  until  the  conqueror  shall  first 
have  passed  over  my  dead  body." 

"Then,  my  king,  it  is  best  that  Mitla  confine  herself  to 
slight  skirmishes  with  the  enemy  in  case  she  is  attacked,  and 
avoid  staking  all  on  the  issue  of  a  general  engagement." 

"Exactly,  Alarii,  but  as  it  may  chance  that  we  must  enter 
the  war,  make  ready  the  forces  for  a  campaign." 


Another  of  the  Numerous  Churches  of  Mexico  &t  San  Geronimo,  Tehuantepec 


'  ™'"TKe"C!iuvch  of  JucMlan 


THE  MIXTEC  REVOLT  237 

Recognizing  the  seriousness  of  the  revolt,  Moctezuma 
counseled  with  the  kings  of  Texcoco  and  Tlacopan  how  he 
might  subjugate  the  southerners  and  obtain  a  supply  of  pris- 
oners for  the  festival  of  Tlacaxipehualiztli.  He  again  placed 
Cuitlahuac  in  command  and  the  latter  set  out  with  a  numerous 
army  for  the  land  of  the  Mixtecs.  He  first  attacked  Yan- 
huitlan  which,  notwithstanding  the  strength  of  its  fortifica- 
tions and  the  bravery  of  the  defenders,  was  soon  taken  and 
the  inhabitants  put  to  the  sword. 

After  this  triumph  he  directed  his  forces  against  Sosola, 
which  town  he  found  deserted,  for  the  defenders  having  learn- 
ed of  the  fate  of  Yanhuitlan  had  fled.  In  vain  he  spent  four  days 
scouring  the  mountains  in  pursuit  of  its  inhabitants.  He 
could  not  hit  upon  their  trail.  He  accordingly  set  out  for  Mitla 
in  search  of  more  prisoners,  for  he  had  only  taken  a  thousand 
at  Yanhuitlan,  a  number  which  would  hardly  suffice  to  satisfy 
the  thirst  for  blood  of  the  Aztec  war  god. 

Now  the  Zapotecs  who  peopled  Mitla  were  not  wanting  in 
resourcefulness,  as  they  had  amply  demonstrated  at  Quiengola. 
They  were  as  much  distinguished  for  their  cunning  as  for  the 
ingenuity  with  which  they  could  extricate  themselves  from 
the  most  perilous  positions.  An  instance  occurred  on  this 
occasion. 

As  soon  as  they  learned  that  the  Aztecs  had  arrived  at 
Huaxyacac  they  abandoned  their  town  and  withdrew  to  a 
fortified  hill  situated  a  short  distance  to  the  west.  The  walls 
of  this  fortress  and  the  great  store  of  stones  which  they  ac- 
cumulated for  the  defense  yet  testify  to  their  military  skill. 

Cuitlahuac  arrived,  reconnoitered  the  country,  and  after 
viewing  the  position  occupied  by  the  Mitlans  decided  to  take 
it  by  asault.  But  in  this  he  failed,  for  as  often  as  the  Aztecs 
assaulted  the  stronghold,  so  often  were  they  repulsed. 


238  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Desiring  to  save  blood  and  knowing  that  the  defenders 
were  short  of  provisions,  he  determined  to  reduce  them  by 
siege.  He  threw  his  lines  about  the  place  and  pressed  them 
closely.  In  truth  the  Mitlans  were  reduced  to  the  greatest 
extremity,  for  one  night  they  disappeared  as  if  by  magic,  with- 
out its  being  known  how  or  by  what  road  they  had  effected 
their  escape. 

The  Mexicans  entered  the  deserted  stronghold,  marvel- 
ling greatly  that  its  defenders  had  been  able  to  leave  without 
being  noted,  for  the  place  was  narrow  and  their  vigilance  had 
been  extreme.  But  greater  still  was  their  astonishment  when 
they  shortly  discovered  the  enemy  posted  on  a  nearby  moun- 
tain. They  had,  therefore,  to  undertake  the  taking  of  a  new 
position  and  to  begin  the  work  which  they  had  thought  to  be 
finished. 

The  Mitlans  conducted  themselves  on  this  second  moun- 
tain in  much  the  same  manner  as  they  had  on  the  first,  fight- 
ing with  spirit  but  when  they  found  themselves  reduced  to 
extemities  disappearing  as  if  by  enchantment,  taking  position 
on  a  third  inaccessible  and  well  fortified  rock,  which  was  in 
turn  besieged  by  the  Mexicans.  The  ingenuity  of  the  one  side 
in  interposing  obstacles  was  as  great  as  that  of  the  other  in 
overcoming  them. 

The  third  position  taken,  the  Mitlans  disappeared  as  be- 
fore but  in  such  manner  that  the  Aztecs  did  not  for  some  time 
learn  of  their  departure.  This  is  hardly  to  be  wondered  at 
as  they  made  their  escape  by  a  subterranean  passage. 

Cuitlahuac  being  completely  thwarted  in  his  designs  re- 
concentrated  his  troops  in  Mitla  and  taking  from  there  the  few 
old  and  infirm  men  who  had  remained  behind,  that  he  might 
have  wherewith  to  grace  his  triumph,  set  out  on  the  march 
for  Tenochtitlan.  In  passing  by  Cuauhquechollan  he  attacked 


THE  MIXTEC  REVOLT  239 

and  took  that  place,  performing  prodigies  of  valor  in  order 
that  he  might  secure  prisoners  to  offer  up  to  Huitzilopochtli, 
since  he  had  captured  so  few  in  his  campaign  against  Mitla. 

The  wily  Cosijoeza  had  kept  in  close  touch  with  Mitla 
and  learned  of  everything  that  transpired  to  the  smallest  de- 
tail. As  soon  as  word  was  brought  him  of  the  departure  of 
the  enemy  he  smilingly  said  to  his  counselor :  "Now  Moctezuma 
will  learn  through  his  general  Cuitlahuac  with  what  sort  of 
people  he  has  to  contend  and  how  fully  prepared  we  are  for 
war." 

"I  am  thankful,"  answered  Alarii,  "that  Mitla  has  suffered 
no  great  losses  and  am  only  sorry  for  our  helpless  old  men 
whom  Cuitlahuac  has  carried  away  captive." 

"Have  no  fear  on  that  score,  my  friend,"  replied  the  king, 
"he  has  merely  taken  them  with  him  to  grace  his  triumph. 
Calm  yourself.  Moctezuma  will  not  sacrifice  our  old  men  in 
the  Cuauhxicalli,  not  only  on  account  of  their  age  and  inno- 
cence but  also  for  fear  of  the  Zapotecs,  among  whom  he  has 
a  colony  at  the  gates  of  our  court  as  well  as  free  passage  to 
Guatemala ;  which,  should  he  be  guilty  of  so  great  infamy,  he 
would  lose  without  hope  of  recovery,  as  Ahuitzotl  lost  it  at 
Quiengola." 

In  truth,  the  old  men  of  Mitla  were  not  sacrificed,  but 
after  a  time  were  permitted  to  return  to  their  homes.  The 
men  of  Yanhuitlan  and  Cuauhquechollan  were  the  only  victims 
served  up  to  satisfy  the  sanguinary  appetite  of  Huitzilopochtli. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
THE  KING  OF  TEHUANTEPEC. 

AS  the  princes,  Naatipa  and  Cosijopii,  grew  rapidly, 
Cosijoeza  in  1510  set  about  procuring-  them  a  careful 
education  that  they  might  be  prepared  to  govern 
worthily.    He  placed  them  under  the  direction  of  wise  masters 
and  seven  years  later  found  them  fully  instructed  in  politics, 
morals,  and  the  other  subjects  which  went  to  make  up  a  liberal 
education. 

Cosijopii  revealing  civil  and  administrative  talents  which 
recommended  him  in  the  eyes  of  his  father,  the  king  called 
in  his  counselor  and  addressed  him  thus:  "The  Aztecs  know, 
Alarii,  that  the  kingdom  of  Tehuantepec  is  destined  for  my 
son  Cosijopii.  Very  well  then;  as  he  is  already  fifteen  years 
old  and  well  instructed  in  the  duties  of  a  ruler,  I  propose  that 
he  next  year  be  installed  as  king  with  all  solemnity." 

"My  lord,"  answered  the  faithful  minister,  "notwith- 
standing the  tender  age  of  the  prince  the  step  which  you  con- 
template is  prudent.  By  it  you  will  strengthen  the  Zapotec 
power  in  that  remote  region,  and  we  shall  besides  be  giving 
the  Aztecs  an  object  lesson  in  the  art  of  government,  for  they 
do  not  seem  to  understand  that  justice  should  be  the  main 
consideration  in  the  government  of  conquered  territories." 

"Exactly,"  responded  the  king,  "for  that  very  reason  I 
wish  to  place  Cosijopii  there  because,  himself  a  Son  of  Zaachila, 
he  will  know  how  to  uphold  with  dignity  their  laws  and  reli- 
gion and  defend  the  land.  You  shall  accompany  him  and  be 

240 


THE  KING  OF  TEHUANTEPEC  241 

his  counselor,"  he  added.    "The  new  kingdom  shall  be  upheld 
by  my  son's  valor  and  your  wisdom." 

"I  am  your  servant,"  answered  Alarii,  "and  you  will  dis- 
pose of  me  as  you  deem  best  for  the  welfare  of  our  people." 

"Thanks,  most  noble  soul,  and  now  let  us  attend  to  the 
preliminaries;  and  believe  me,  Alarii,  this  separation  will 
cause  me  deep  affliction." 

Two  weeks  after  this  conference  the  capital  was  in  festal 
array.  From  all  the  cities  of  the  Zapotecs  and  from  many  of 
those  of  the  friendly  nations  round  about  there  had  gathered 
an  immense  concourse  of  nobles  and  commonalty,  to  be  present 
at  the  elevation  of  Prince  Cosijopii.  The  palace  of  Zaachila, 
richly  adorned,  was  full  of  visitors  and  joy  filled  every  heart. 

At  ten  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  January  10,  1518,  Prince 
Cosijopii  appeared  in  the  principal  street  richly  dressed  and 
accompanied  by  many  of  the  leading  men  of  the  court,  who 
proceeded  with  him  to  the  palace.  The  rattle  of  drums  and  the 
strident  sound  of  the  conch  gave  the  signal  as  he  passed  with 
his  retinue  between  serried  ranks  of  warriors  who  inclined 
the  head  in  token  of  respect. 

Cosijoeza  seated  on  his  throne  and  surrounded  by  the 
flower  of  the  Zapotec  nobility  awaited  the  prince.  The  latter 
was  announced  and  Alarii  introduced  him  into  the  royal  pres- 
ence and  seated  him  to  the  left  of  the  king  and  next  the  queen, 
for  the  high  priest  occupied  the  seat  at  the  king's  right.  Con- 
ducted by  the  latter  before  the  throne,  the  king  addressed  him 
as  follows : 

"Prince  Cosijopii,  your  father,  King  Cosijoeza,  favored 
by  the  gods  and  the  valor  of  the  people,  conquered  the  region 
of  Tehuantepec  twenty-one  years  ago  after  seven  months  of 
continuous  warfare  with  the  Mexicans.  Neither  ambition  to 


242  .      THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

enlarge  our  territories  nor  the  desire  for  fame  were  the  mo- 
tives which  induced  me  to  make  that  campaign.  I  fought  in  a 
more  noble  cause ; — the  vindication  of  our  national  rights,  en- 
dangered by  the  overshadowing  power  of  Anahuac. 

"Peace  being  effected  with  the  Mexicans  through  my  mar- 
riage with  your  august  mother,  I  agreed  with  her  to  erect  a 
throne  at  Tehuantepec  to  the  second  of  our  living  male  chil- 
dren, that  we  might  show  Anahuac  that  our  conquests  were 
governed  in  the  interest  of  their  people.  You  are  that  child 
and  I  am  now  prepared  to  fulfill  my  promise.  I  therefore  in 
the  presence  of  the  gods  and  the  people  declare  you  king  of 
Tehuantepec.  Conserve  this  inheritance  raised  up  by  the  valor 
of  your  race  as  the  most  precious  legacy  which  your  country- 
men can  offer  you." 

Then  the  high  priest,  anointing  him  with  balsam  and 
presenting  him  with  the  insignia  of  royalty,  said:  "Receive 
these  emblems  of  authority  which  symbolize  power  and  justice. 
Use  them  with  prudence  and  ever  for  the  welfare  of  your 
people." 

Cosijopii  was  deeply  moved.  In  tones  vibrant  with  loyalty 
he  answered  his  father  as  follows:  "My  honored  father,  I 
thank  you  from  the  bottom  of  my  heart  for  the  unmerited  dis- 
tinction with  which  you  and  the  nation  have  been  pleased  to 
honor  me.  I  pray  that  the  gods  may  strengthen  my  hands, 
and  I  accept  the  charge,  not  for  my  own  profit,  but  for  the  wel- 
fare of  the  people  whom  you  consign  to  my  care ;  and  I  do 
solemnly  promise  to  defend  their  religion,  laws,  and  rights." 

Then  the  lords  and  nobles  came  forward  and  bowing  low 
before  the  newly  consecrated  king  offered  to  him  their  persons, 
wealth,  and  subjects  to  make  the  nation  great  and  happy.  This 
finished,  Cosijopii  gave  largess  to  the  poor. 

Four  days  passed  and  then  there  was  a  renewal  of  fes- 
tivities ;  for  King  Cosijopii  on  his  father's  advice  then  took  to 


THE  KING  OF  TEHUANTEPEC  243 

wife  Zeetobaa,  a  damsel  of  fourteen  years,  perfect  in  face  and 
form,  the  daughter  of  a  noble  of  the  house  of  Macuilzochitl. 
The  wedding  was  celebrated  with  great  magnificence  and  all 
the  nation  approved  of  the  alliance. 

On  the  twenty-sixth  of  January,  King  Cosijopii,  accom- 
panied by  his  beautiful  wife,  his  counselor  Alarii,  and  a  re- 
tinue of  Zapotecs,  prepared  to  depart  for  Tehuantepec.  As 
they  were  about  to  leave  his  father  said  to  him:  "I  commend  to 
your  keeping  your  little  sister  Pinopaa,  the  playmate  of  your 
childhood.  You  would  feel  lonely  without  her.  Provide  well 
for  her  and  may  the  gods  be  with  you." 

"Have  no  fear,  sir,"  answered  Cosijopii.  "My  queen  and 
I  love  her  greatly  and  we  will  both  watch  over  her." 

He  then  embraced  his  father  and  departed  full  of  faith  in 
the  future.  Throughout  the  journey  he  received  ovations  at 
all  the  towns  through  which  he  passed.  But  upon  reaching 
Jalapa  their  contentment  was  disturbed  for  the  Princess 
Pinopaa  became  sick  of  a  cold.  Pausing  there  they  tried  to 
effect  her  cure,  but  none  of  the  remedies  of  the  Indian  phy- 
sicians would  avail.  She  died,  and  Cosijopii,  hardly  more  than 
a  child  himself,  shed  bitter  tears  at  the  loss  of  the  beloved 
companion  of  his  childhood. 

The  Zapotec  lords  met  round  about  the  bier  and  mourned 
the  premature  death  of  this  child  beloved  of  heaven.  Prepara- 
tions were  made  for  the  burial  when  all  of  a  sudden  the  body 
of  the  deceased  disappeared.  There  was  a  loud  report,  and 
behold  the  body  was  transformed  into  a  sphere  of  stone,  with 
surface  beautifully  engraved,  such  as  the  gods  designed  for 
the  reception  of  those  they  loved. 

"What  was  foretold  has  come  to  pass,"  said  Alarii,  "let 
us  bow  to  the  divine  judgment." 


244  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

When  the  nine  days  of  mourning  were  past  Cosijopii  pro- 
ceeded down  the  river  to  Tehuantepec  where,  notwithstanding 
his  affliction,  he  was  received  in  state  by  his  people,  over  whom 
he  began  to  reign  on  the  sixteenth  day  of  February.  From  the 
beginning  he  ruled  with  great  wisdom  and  justice,  endearing 
himself  to  the  people  by  his  exemplary  conduct. 

His  first  efforts  were  devoted  to  the  making  of  alliances, 
drawing  closer  the  bonds  of  friendship  with  the  neighboring 
states  that  war  might  be  avoided.  Not  that  Cosijopii  and 
Alarii  suspected  the  intentions  of  their  neighbors  or  enter- 
tained any  grave  fears  of  them.  The  alliances  were  intended 
rather  as  a  precaution  against  Moctezuma,  whom  they  feared 
and  of  whose  far-reaching  designs  they  never  lost  sight.  In 
their  allies  they  possessed  bulwarks  against  the  Aztec  armies 
on  the  north  and  the  forces  of  the  lord  of  Tabasco  to  the  east. 


A  few  months  after  the  death  of  Pinopaa  the  Zapotecs 
raised  a  temple  to  her  memory  on  a  height  near  Jalapa,  in 
which  the  miraculous  sphere  alluded  to  was  deposited.  This 
temple  was  rediscovered  in  the  year  1609  by  a  shepherd  who, 
having  lost  his  way,  discovered  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain 
a  spacious  square,  well  swept,  in  the  center  of  which  stood  the 
once  sumptuous  chapel  of  Pinopaa.  It  was  built  of  well-hewn 
stone. 

He  entered  and  in  the  central  chamber  found  the  precious 
sphere.  He  reached  out  and  took  it,  but  as  he  held  it  in  his 
hands  examining  it,  he  heard  the  voice  of  an  ancient  Indian 
who  emerged  from  a  nearby  thicket,  saying,  "Do  not  profane 
that  holy  object  with  your  impure  touch,  my  son,  for  that  is 
an  impiety  which  heaven  will  not  fail  to  punish,  as  has  hap- 
pened in  the  case  of  many  who  have  approached  it  without 


THE  KING  OF  TEHUANTEPEC  245 

reverence.  Replace  it  and  have  a  care  that  you  reveal  not 
what  you  have  learned,  as  you  value  your  life." 

The  shepherd  retired  greatly  frightened ;  but  being  a  good 
Catholic  informed  the  parish  priest,  Friar  Pedro  Sobrino,  of 
the  existence  of  the  idolatrous  fane.  The  priest  immediately 
sought  out  the  chapel  and  ascertaining  the  names  of  its  secret 
votaries  reported  the  matter  to  his  superior. 

The  latter  entrusted  the  prosecution  to  Friar  Alonso  de 
Espinosa  who,  proceeding  with  characteristic  vigor,  took  the 
necessary  declarations:  establishing  the  cult,  sentenced  the 
accused,  and  handed  them  over  to  the  secular  arm. 

The  condemned  were  seven,  and  at  the  recantation  they 
were  brought  before  the  judge  on  a  great  scaffold,  naked  to  the 
waist,  with  halters  about  their  necks,  their  faces  masked,  and 
black  veils  in  their  hands.  The  penalties  imposed  were  light. 
The  temple  and  the  sphere  of  Pinopaa  were  destroyed. 

Someone,  perhaps  the  same  parish  priest  or  his  successor, 
perceiving  that  this  righteous  procedure  failed  to  eradicate 
the  cult  to  which  the  Indians  still  clandestinely  adhered,  ef- 
fected a  new  transformation  of  the  goddess  Pinopaa,  con- 
verting her  into  the  blessed  Magdalen,  the  patron  saint  of 
Jalapa,  to  whom  the  same  superstitious  worship  might  be  paid 
without  running  any  risk  of  punishment. 

Nothing  further  of  moment  occurred  during  the  first  year 
of  Cosijopii's  rule.  But  as  one  deeply  versed  in  the  mysteries 
of  statecraft  and  religion,  he  was  from  the  beginning  greatly 
perplexed  as  he  pondered  upon  the  significance  of  a  belief 
which  iiad  long  prevailed  among  the  Zapotecs  and  other  tribes 
of  the  present  state  of  Oaxaca.  For  a  persistent  rumor  spread 
among  the  people  that  the  time  would  come  when  there  would 
arrive  from  the  east  a  strange  race  of  men,  fair  of  complexion 


246  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

and  strong  in  battle,  who  would  conquer  the  land,  despoil  the 
people  of  their  treasures,  and  eradicate  their  ancient  beliefs, 
substituting  therefor  a  new  and  unknown  faith. 

This  belief,  and  the  circumstance  that  about  this  time 
the  people  of  Tehuantepee  became  greatly  exercised  over  a 
certain  monument  called  Guixepecocha*  which  existed  within 
the  confines  of  the  kingdom,  whose  strange  heiroglyphics  the 
astrologers  could  not  decipher,  filled  the  mind  of  Cosijopii 
with  grave  misgivings,  as  it  had  the  former  rulers  of  the  land. 

The  origin  of  the  monument  in  question  has  been  imputed 
to  the  Aztec  god  Quetzalcoatl  who,  in  passing  through  the  town 
of  Magdalena,  was  said  to  have  cut  on  the  pinnacle  of  a  great 
rock  lying  in  the  open  country  near  an  arroyo  or  dry  water- 
course a  figure  representing  a  religious  clad  in  a  white  habit 
and  seated  in  a  high-backed  chair,  with  hood  drawn  and  cheek 
resting  on  hand,  the  face  turned  toward  the  right,  and  on  his 
left  an  Indian  woman  with  dress  and  white  mantle  (like  that 
used  by  the  mountaineers  to  this  day) ,  covered  to  the  head  and 
kneeling  as  if  in  the  attitude  of  confession. 

This  figure  so  disquieted  the  Zapotecs  that  Cosijopii  on 
the  advice  of  his  counselor  gave  command  that  the  priests 
proceed  to  the  holy  island  of  Monapoxtiac  and  there  consult 
Pezelao,  that  is  to  say,  the  Oracle  of  Heaven  or,  as  they  were 
also  pleased  to  call  him,  the  Soul  of  the  World,  to  the  end  that 
it  might  be  revealed  to  them  what  the  carving  signified.  They 
did  as  commanded  and  the  oracle  answered  vaguely:  "Behold 
you  have  the  figure  for  a  mystery  and  a  great  omen." 

*From  the  Zapotecan  Guixe,  mountain,  and  pecocha,  prophet. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 
THE  ZAPOTEC  RELIGION. 

THOU  wilt  bear  with  thy  servant  yet  a  little,  0  son  of 
Abdullah,  whilst  he  describes  the  religious  tenets 
and  practices  of  the  Sons  of  Zaachila.  Our  narra- 
tive deals  with  prodigies  and  wonders  passing  belief,  and  well 
I  know  thee  for  a  true  believer  to  whom  the  abominations  of 
the  idolater  are  as  the  stench  which  ariseth  from  the  bottom- 
less pit.  Yea,  thy  hand  longeth  for  the  sword  of  the  Prophet, 
blessed  be  his  name,  that  thou  mayest  speedily  make  an  end 
of  the  unbeliever.  Yet  thou  must  needs  stay  thy  righteous 
anger  and  bear  with  me  yet  a  little,  for  unless  thou  have 
knowledge  of  these  abominations  thou  canst  not  comprehend 
what  in  the  end  befell  this  people. 

And  first  I  must  tell  thee  what  the  good  Gracida  has  to 
say  concerning  the  figure  called  Guixepecocha  and  the  legend- 
ary character  of  Pecocha. 

It  appears  that  certain  erudite  historians  have  asserted 
that  the  Guixepecocha  was  carved  by  the  apostle  St.  Thomas  or 
certain  of  his  disciples.  Waiving  this  question  for  the  time 
being,  Gracida  devotes  his  attention  to  Pecocha.  This  Pecocha, 
if  we  are  to  believe  Gracida,  was  a  Buddhist  prophet  who,  pro- 
ceeding from  Nicaragua  arrived  in  the  sixth  century  on  the 
shores  of  Huatulco,  where  he  planted  a  cross  much  venerated 
in  ancient  times  and  which  the  corsair  Thomas  Cambrick  at- 
tempted to  burn  in  1587,  but  without  success. 

This  prophet,  according  to  the  native  tradition  as  given 
by  Madero  of  the  Redemption,  as  he  approached  the  Indians 

247 


248  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

saluted  them  in  their  own  tongue,  a  circumstance  which  occa- 
sioned great  surprise.  He  was,  they  averred,  very  old,  corpu- 
lent, of  a  light  complexion,  and  had  a  broad  forehead,  large 
eyes,  long  beard,  and  long  black  hair ;  and  was  clad  in  a  long 
tunic  and  mantle.  He  remained  among  them  for  some  time 
preaching  his  doctrine,  and  they  observed  that  he  was  of  a 
benevolent  nature,  humane,  industrious,  wise,  prudent,  and 
just;  one  who  sought  to  introduce  wise  laws.  At  the  same 
time  they  stated  that  it  was  he  who  had  taught  them  the  art 
of  smelting  metals  and  sculpturing  stone.  They  seem  to  have 
considered  him  an  extraordinary  being  similar  to  the  Cul- 
chunchan  of  the  people  of  Palenque  and  the  Quetzalcoatl  of  the 
Aztecs. 

In  retiring  from  that  region  he  is  said  to  have  declared 
to  them  that  he  left  with  them  the  symbol  of  refuge  and  that 
the  time  would  come  in  which  they  would  recognize  by  it  the 
true  god  of  heaven  and  earth.* 

In  passing  by  the  River  of  Sand  he  sculptured  a  foot  on  a 
round  rock  and  another  at  the  River  of  the  Cross,  near  Bo- 
quilla.  From  this  point  he  set  out  for  the  country  of  the  Cha- 
tina,  among  whom  he  labored  for  some  time,  leaving  as  a 
memento,  on  an  arch  (?)  of  the  temple  of  Zentzontepec,  three 
hands  painted  in  red  and  four  or  five  letters  thought  to  have 
been  Greek. 

Tireless  in  his  mission,  he  next  set  forth  for  the  valley 
of  Lake  Roaloo,  that  is  to  say,  for  the  country  of  the  Zapotecs, 
teaching  as  he  moved  toward  Totitlan  of  the  Valley,  in  the 
direction  of  Xaquija  of  the  Zapotecs  or  of  Mitla. 

Installed  among  the  princes  and  priests  he  reformed  the 
religion  of  the  country,  so  that  the  Zapotec  priests  never 
thereafter  poluted  their  altars  with  human  blood,  but  were 
wiser  and  more  enlightened  than  those  of  Anahuac. 

*At  this  point  the  legend  has  evidently  been  tampered  with  in  the 
interest  of  Christianity  by  Madero  or  some  later  priest. 


THE  ZAPOTEC  RELIGION  249 

Having  finished  his  work  among  the  Zapotecs  he  depart- 
ed for  the  country  of  the  Mixes,  where  he  sculptured  two  feet 
upon  a  great  rock  on  Mt.  Zempoaltepec.  Persecuted  by  the 
Mixes,  he  is  said  to  have  sprung  from  a  great  height  before 
their  very  eyes,  without  suffering  harm,  and  disappeared. 

Afterward  he  appeared  among  the  Chontals  preaching  his 
doctrines.  He  left  among  them  a  cross  which  he  himself  had 
engraved  and  which  was  preserved  until  after  the  arrival  of 
the  Spaniards. 

He  then  retired  toward  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec, 
sculpturing  at  the  town  of  Quietabene,  now  Magdalena,  the 
figure  referred  to  as  called  Guixepecocha  by  the  Zapotecs.  And 
at  last  he  disappeared  on  the  Enchanted  Mountain  of  the  Isle 
of  Monapoxtiac  in  the  Upper  Lagoon,  and  no  man  knoweth 
what  later  became  of  him. 

Our  master  Gracida,  on  very  slight  evidence  it  seems  to 
me,  assigns  a  Buddhistic  origin  to  Pecocha.  He  thinks  the 
apostle  to  have  undoubtedly  been  that  Hoei  Chin  (which  in 
the  Chinese  tongue  means  Universal  Compassion),  called  by 
his  disciples  Fou  Sang,  who  is  reputed  to  have  visited  the 
shores  of  America  in  the  sixth  century  of  the  Christian  era. 
Gracida  contends  that  the  doctrines  which  he  preached  and  the 
reforms  instituted  by  him  in  the  religion  of  the  primitive  Za- 
potecs clearly  demonstrate  their  Buddhistic  origin. 

He  alludes  to  the  fact  that  his  Zapotec  name  Pecocha 
greatly  resembled  that  of  the  Peruvian  demigod,  Viracocha; 
and  considers  it  surprising  that  Memquanteba,  Bochica,  and 
Sube,  the  apostles  of  Bogata,  Panama,  and  Nicaragua  should 
have  appeared  at  the  same  time  that  Pecocha  appeared  among 
the  Zapotecs,  and  that  their  teaching  should  have  been  so 
similar.  He  also  adverts  to  the  fact  that  all  of  these  teachers 


250  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

appeared  to  the  several  peoples  and  disappeared  in  the  same 
mysterious  manner. 

Was  there  but  one  prophet  and  was  it  his  several  disciples 
who  appeared  on  the  American  continent?  Gracida  compla- 
cently assures  us  that  while  this  question  cannot  be  answered 
catagorically,  on  the  other  hand  it  is  well  known  that  the  dis- 
ciples of  Buddha  suffered  cruel  persecution  at  the  hands  of  the 
Brahmins  and  from  the  leaders  of  the  sect  of  Siva  and  were 
driven  out  of  Hindustan  in  the  fifth  and  sixth  centuries  of  the 
Christian  era,  a  period  coincident  with  that  of  the  appearance 
of  Pecocha  in  the  new  world.  His  argument  is  weak.  Bud- 
dhism had  entered  China  and  had  become  established  there 
centuries  before  it  was  expelled  from  its  original  seat,  and  it 
is  admitted  that  Fou  Sang  was  a  Chinese  Buddhist. 

The  Zapotec  theogony  as  it  has  been  handed  down  to  us 
by  the  Spanish  missionaries  of  the  time  of  the  Conquest,  tells 
us  nothing  of  the  true  moral  and  religious  practices  of  the 
Indians.  The  missionaries  busied  themselves  solely  with  de- 
scribing the  superstitious  side  of  the  religions  of  the  new 
world,  the  better  to  justify  the  vigorous  methods  employed 
by  them  in  eradicating  the  indigenous  cults.  They  seem  to 
have  been  very  careful  to  prevent  the  truth  from  coming  to 
light  that  the  aborigines  worshipped  the  Supreme  Being,  as 
they  unquestionably  did. 

But  we  are  far  from  following  Gracida  in  all  his  conclu- 
sions. From  the  fact  that  the  Huaves  who  inhabit  the  shores 
of  the  Upper  Lagoon  have  been  surprised  on  Monapoxtiac  en- 
gaged in  celebrating  the  summer  solstice,  he  argues  that  they 
had  been  taught  the  principles  of  Freemasonry.  And  again 
because  the  number  of  priests  of  Mitla  taken  in  the  palace  at 
Tehuantepec  was  seven,  and  seven  that  of  those  of  the  temple 
of  Pinopaa  he  infers  the  Buddhistic  origin  of  the  Zapotec  forms 


THE  ZAPOTEC  RELIGION  251 

of  worship.  The  argument  is  not  compelling.  Whence  Pe- 
cocha  came  no  man  knows,  but  there  is  little  reason  for  be- 
lieving that  he  came  from  China  and  none  whatever  for  assum- 
ing that  he  knew  aught  of  Freemasonry. 

We  conclude  this  subject  by  calling  attention  to  the  fact 
that  the  Pecocha  of  the  Zapotecs  should  not  be  confused  with 
Quetzalcoatl,  the  Fair  God  of  the  Aztecs.  Pecocha,  described 
as  having  a  long  black  beard,  is  said  to  have  appeared  from  the 
south  and  to  have  disappeared  southeast  of  Tehuantepec ;  while 
Quetzacoatl,  with  long  white  beard,  came  from  the  north  and 
departed  toward  the  southeast  in  the  direction  of  Coatzacoal- 
cos,  in  search  of  Tlapallan,  without  touching  Oaxaca,  for  there 
is  no  tradition  of  his  having  passed  through  the  territories 
of  the  Mixtecs  and  Zapotecs  nor  through  Chinantla  and  Mix- 
istlan. 

In  attributing  the  Guixepecocha  to  the  Aztec  god  tradi- 
tion had,  as  we  have  seen,  become  strangely  confused. 

Now  we  come  to  the  Zapotec  pantheon.  Their  god  Pitao 
was  conceived  of  as  uncreated,  incorporeal,  immortal,  and  en- 
dowed with  attributes  not  pertaining  to  the  other  spirits.  In 
speaking  of  him  as  the  Infinite,  without  beginning  and  im- 
mortal, they  called  him  Coqui  Cilia,  Xetao,  Piyeepao,  Chillatao. 
If  they  wished  to  express  the  idea  that  he  was  the  creator  of 
the  world  they  referred  to  him  as  Pitao  Cozanna;  if  as  the 
creator  of  beasts  and  men,  Huichanna ;  while  as  the  ruler  and 
sustainer  of  all  things  he  was  Coquiza  Chibatiya,  or  Cosa- 
anatao. 

To  this  supreme  spirit,  whose  attributes  the  Zapotec  lan- 
guage so  fully  defined,  other  spirits  and  supernatural  beings 
were  subordinated,  each  of  which  had  its  part  to  perform  in 
the  world  order. 


252  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Pitao  Cocobi  was  the  god  of  abundance  and  of  harvests; 
Pitao  Cociyo,  the  genius  of  rain ;  Pitao  Cozanna  presided  over 
fishing  and  the  chase ;  Pitao  Xoo  was  the  god  of  earthquakes. 
Three  spirits,  Pitao  Zey,  Pitao  Yaa,  and  Pitao  Pee,  watched 
over  the  unfortunate  and  those  in  distress,  and  three  others, 
Pitao  Peeze,  Pitao  Quelli,  and  Pitao  Yaaye,  distributed  among 
men  pleasures  and  riches.  Pitao  Pecala  was  the  divinity  who 
presided  over  dreams,  while  Pitao  Peczi  was  the  god  of  aus- 
pices. Besides  these,  each  town  and  valley  had  its  tutulary 
spirit. 

From  this  list  it  will  be  seen  that  the  Zapotecs  admitted 
the  existence  of  a  number  of  spirits,  but  that  they  recognized 
the  divine  attributes  as  existing  in  perfection  only  in  the  great 
spirit,  Pitao. 

Pezelao,  which  is  by  interpretation  Oracle  of  Heaven, 
is  said  to  have  been  the  principal  god  of  Mitla;  but  in  the 
historic  period  we  find  him  also  established  at  Monapoxtiac. 

Petela  was  the  patriarch  of  the  Zapotecs,  saved  accord- 
ing to  them  in  the  American  deluge.  He  is  reputed  to  have 
lived  a  hundred  years  before  Christ  and  his  mummy,  pre- 
served at  Coatlan,  a  town  of  the  district  of  Miahuatlan,  was 
publicly  burned  by  the  priest  Bartolome  de  Pisa. 

Bezello  was  the  spirit  of  evil,  the  Devil ;  and  Hell,  his  habi- 
tation, called  Gabela,  was  supposed  to  be  located  in  the  interior 
of  the  Earth.  In  Tehuantepec  and  other  Zapotec  towns,  even 
to  the  present  day,  they  call  this  mythical  being  Binigaba,  that 
is  to  say,  "the  bad  man;"  in  Ocatlan,  Mexabe;  and  in  the 
mountains,  Tazani. 

Bicha  is  a  name  applied  to  all  animals,  and  as  according 
to  their  superstition  the  Devil  takes  whatsoever  form  he 
pleases,  the  belief  has  arisen  that  he  commonly  appears  in  the 
form  of  a  dog.  He  is  then  called  Bihui  Bicha,  which  name  is 
also  applied  to  a  sorcerer.  In  Ocatlan  and  other  towns  of  the 


o  p 


11 


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THE  ZAPOTEC  RELIGION  253 

Valley  of  Oaxaca  this  spirit  is  said  to  appear  in  the  form  of  a 
black  dog  to  whom  the  name  Becu  Yace  is  given.  Its  mission 
is  to  frighten  and  do  evil  to  those  who  go  forth  at  night  on 
evil  errands. 

As  to  Matlacigua  or  Mictlancihuatl,  called  by  the  Zapotecs 
Gobezguia,  he  was  a  fantastic  being  who  now  for  a  short  time 
would  take  the  form  of  a  little  child,  then  that  of  a  giant,  and 
again  in  the  form  of  a  beautiful  woman  would  seduce  men  with 
magical  and  irresistible  enchantments ;  or  again  as  a  gigantic 
monster  filled  the  boldest  with  dread. 

He  was  a  malevolent  spirit  whose  mission  it  was  to  per- 
vert and  injure,  afterwards  turning  into  smoke  and  disappear- 
ing before  the  eyes  of  the  spectator.  In  Tehuantepec  this 
spirit  is  called  Bixee  and  in  the  mountains  of  Ixtlan,  Guatza. 
His  mission  is  ever  the  same ;  his  forms,  the  most  extravagant. 

From  what  has  been  said  it  will  be  seen  that  the  Devil 
and  Matlacigua,  if  not  the  same  being,  have  at  any  rate  the 
same  characteristics. 

The  Zapotecs  were  far  from  being  satisfied  with  the  an- 
swer of  the  oracle  respecting  the  Guixepecocha  related  in  the 
last  chapter;  and  thus  it  was  that  on  a  certain  occasion  the 
nobles  and  people  approached  Cosijopii  and  earnestly  begged 
him,  in  fact  wellnigh  compelled  him,  to  go  personally  before 
Pezelao  and  ask  him  the  meaning  of  the  omen.  For  they  were 
desirous  to  make  an  end  once  for  all  of  the  uneasiness  which 
the  figure  produced  among  them. 

The  king  acceded  to  their  petition  and  putting  on  the 
priestly  vestments — consisting  of  a  long  white  robe  and  head- 
dress of  featherwork — journeyed  with  the  multitude  to  the 
Upper  Lagoon  and  offered  up  in  the  temple  of  Monapoxtiac 
the  prescribed  sacrifice  of  birds  and  fishes.  The  accompanying 


254  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

incantations  were  kept  up  for  some  time,  for  the  Heart  of  the 
Kingdom  (Pezelao)  long  remained  silent.  In  the  end  it  spoke, 
but  in  broken  and  incoherent  phrases.  The  king,  as  soon  as  he 
had  fathomed  the  significance  of  the  oracular  utterance,  re- 
turned to  the  capital  and  thus  addressed  the  people : 

"My  people,  the  great  god  has  responded  and  in  sorrow 
I  bring  you  his  message.  He  has  revealed  to  me  that  the  hour 
has  arrived  in  which  we  shall  be  driven  from  this  land,  for 
presently  our  enemies  will  come  from  the  land  where  the  sun 
is  born.  White  men  are  they,  mighty  in  battle,  whose  arms  all 
the  kings  of  this  land  will  not  be  able  to  resist,  and  they  will 
conquer  us  and  reduce  us  to  servitude." 

"Afterwards  they  will  bring  other  men  clad  in  a  dress  like 
unto  that  which  you  have  seen  in  the  figure,  who  will  be  our 
priests  and  before  whom  those  of  us  who  remain  will  be  re- 
quired to  confess  their  sins  on  bended  knees,  as  the  woman  in 
the  figure  is  seen  doing." 

Be  this  legend  as  it  may,  and  I  for  one  am  tempted  to  be- 
lieve that  it  has  been  recast  by  priestly  hands,  it  is  certain 
nevertheless  that  first  King  Cosijopii  and  after  him  the  entire 
Zapotec  nation,  having  learned  in  advance  of  the  coming  of 
the  Spaniards  supposed  that  they  came  from  Pecocha.  And 
being  influenced  more  or  less  by  recognizing  in  the  coming  of 
Cortez  the  fulfillment  of  prophecy,  Cosijopii  and  his  father 
Cosijoeza  abdicated  their  thrones,  as  we  shall  see  later  on. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 
THE  MOUNTAIN  CATS. 

NOW,  Cosijoeza,  you  must  needs  know  by  this  time,  O 
son  of  Abdullah,  while  a  very  good  monarch  as 
monarchs  go,  was  far  from  being  a  saint.  While 
everything  smiled  round  about  him,  while  peace  overspread 
with  her  beneficent  mantle  the  Land  of  Zapoteca,  this  crafty 
leader,  trusting  more  to  his  fame  than  to  the  strength  of  his 
armies,  began  to  seize  certain  of  the  territories  of  Cuilapan, 
alleging  that  they  belonged  to  him  of  right. 

Not  content  with  this,  he  sent  envoys  to  the  king  of 
Achiutla,  calling  upon  him  to  relinquish  the  valleys  which  he 
occupied  and  confine  himself  to  those  mountains  which  had  in 
the  beginning  limited  his  domains. 

Dzahuindanda  answered  that  while  it  was  perhaps  true 
that  the  lands  in  which  Cuilapan  was  situated  had  once  be- 
longed to  the  Zapotecs,  nevertheless  the  Mixtecs  had  been  for 
a  long  time  in  possession  and  had  erected  their  habitations 
there;  and  that  many  of  the  inhabitants  had  been  born  there 
and  their  fathers  before  them.  Upon  these  grounds  as  well  as 
because  Cuilapan  was  the  bulwark  which  guarded  his  frontiers 
on  that  side,  he  professed  his  inability  to  yield  to  his  neigh- 
bor's inconsiderate  demand. 

Cosijoeza  refused  to  listen  to  reason,  even  though  a  large 
part  of  his  army  was  absent  at  the  time  guarding  the  eastern 
frontiers  against  the  incursions  of  the  Mixes,  and  immediately 
gave  orders  that  the  inhabitants  of  Cuilapan  be  forcibly  ex- 
pelled, their  houses  razed  and  their  crops  destroyed. 

255 


256  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

This  so  infuriated  the  people  of  Cuilapan  that  they,  with- 
out waiting  for  orders  or  disciplined  troops,  rose  en  masse 
and  attacked  the  Zapotecs,  who  were  driven  headlong  from  the 
field.  The  officer  in  command  was  taken  in  the  combat  and 
hung  on  a  tree. 

War  broke  out  in  all  its  fury.  It  was  not  simply  a  case  of 
two  nations,  friendly  until  then,  shedding  one  another's  blood. 
All  that  portion  of  Mexico  was  shortly  involved  in  the  conflict. 

To  Cosijoeza  the  news  of  the  defeat  of  his  troops  at  Cuil- 
apan was  as  if  a  thunderbolt  had  descended  upon  his  head 
and  he  was  meditating  how  he  might  vindicate  his  honor  when 
an  event  happened  which  led  him  to  alter  his  purpose. 

The  Spaniards,  under  the  command  of  that  famous  ad- 
venturer of  the  sixteenth  century,  Hernando  Cortez,  had  over- 
thrown the  power  of  the  brave  Tlaxcalans  on  September  23, 
1519.  The  foul  traitor  Maxiscatzin,  an  old  senator  of  the  re- 
public but  a  man  without  principle  who  placed  his  personal 
resentment  before  the  good  of  his  country,  opened  the  gates  of 
the  city  to  the  foreign  invader. 

Word  of  this  was  brought  to  Cosijoeza  who,  reflecting 
upon  the  gloomy  prophecies  of  the  sixth  century,  felt  ill  at  ease. 
Gazing  into  the  future  he  perceived  that  Anahuac  would  fall 
before  the  power  of  the  stranger  because  the  Aztecs  had  made 
themselves  odious  to  the  surrounding  nations.  Standing  alone 
they  would  fall,  not  for  want  of  bravery,  but  because  the  thun- 
derbolt which  the  invaders  bore  in  their  hands  would  fill  them 
with  fear. 

"We  will  await  events,"  he  said,  "and  profit  from  the 
power  of  these  white  men  for  our  own  and  our  people's  wel- 
fare. I  am  far  from  thinking  them  our  superiors  in  courage, 
for  the  gods  know  full  well  the  valor  of  the  Sons  of  Zaachila ; 


THE  MOUNTAIN  CATS  257 

but  it  were  the  better  policy  to  maintain  a  friendly  attitude  to- 
ward them  that  in  the  event  of  their  triumph  they  may  respect 
our  territories.  Let  us  conserve  our  strength,  making  war 
neither  upon  the  Mixtoguixe*  nor  upon  the  newcomers.  The 
conduct  of  Moctezuma  will  determine  the  policy  of  the  inde- 
pendent states." 

Cosijoeza's  plan  was  ill-advised.  It  prejudiced  his  in- 
terests for  it  gave  the  Mixtecs  time  to  organize  their  forces 
and  attack  him  in  his  own  capital. 

On  the  eighth  day  of  November,  1519,  the  weak  and  super- 
stitious Moctezuma  II  without  having  fought  a  single  battle 
received  into  his  palace  him  that  was  to  overthrow  the  nation, 
and  who,  under  the  pretext  of  civilizing  the  Indians  and  bring- 
ing them  to  the  knowledge  of  the  true  God,  was  to  drive  the 
rulers  of  the  land  from  their  thrones  and  add  the  land  of 
Anahuac  to  the  crown  of  Castile. 

Word  traveled  swiftly  to  the  friends  and  enemies  of  Te- 
nochtitlan.  All  were  surprised  and  all  hastened  to  save  them- 
selves, some  from  considerations  of  policy  maintaining  a 
guarded  neutrality,  and  others  shaking  off  the  yoke  and  wel- 
coming the  Spaniard  as  the  avenger  of  their  wrongs.  All 
pursued  a  natural  but  mistaken  course.  Though  they  had 
ample  reason  for  hating  the  Aztec,  wisdom  counseled  the  giv- 
ing of  every  assistance  to  Tenochtitlan  in  her  hour  of  peril. 

Cosijoeza  on  learning  of  the  event  at  first  wavered  and 
knew  not  what  course  to  pursue.  At  length  he  recollected  the 
prophecy:  "In  the  end  the  Mexicans  will  lose  their  independ- 
ence." He  hesitated  no  longer.  No  call  came  from  Moctezuma. 
The  words  of  the  prophecy  rang  in  his  ears  and  he  felt  con- 
strained to  recognize  in  the  Spaniards  the  avengers  whom  the 

*"Mountain  cats,"  a  term  of  reproach  applied  by  the  Zapotecs  to  the 
Mixtecs. 


258  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

god  Pezelao  had  revealed  to  the  Zapotecs  at  the  temple  of 
Monapoxtiac. 

His  decision  made,  he  sent  a  courier  to  Cosijopii  with  this 
message :  "My  son,  the  eternal  gods  have  determined  to  divest 
us  of  our  power.  I,  your  father,  feel  constrained  by  divine  de- 
cree to  receive  the  stranger  beneath  the  lofty  ceilings  of  my 
palace.  Let  us  join  together  in  securing  the  happiness  of  our 
people,  returning  to  the  gods  the  pledges  which  they  have  en- 
trusted to  our  keeping. 

"If,  as  I  imagine,  you  are  of  my  opinion,  I  bid  you  name 
ambassadors  who,  joining  with  mine,  shall  proceed  to  Tenoch- 
titlan  and  there  demand  audience  of  the  chief  of  the  strangers, 
to  whom  they  will  offer  our  friendship  and  our  kingdoms.  By 
this  means  since  we  are  powerful  we  may  secure  ourselves 
against  disaster." 

Now  Cosijopii  was  still  very  young,  nor  thought  he  to 
question  his  father's  counsel.  Gazing  in  perplexity  at  Alarii 
he  barely  whispered :  "Pezelao  has  declared  unto  us,  The  sons 
of  the  sun  will  come  quickly'."  Alarii  knew  not  what  to  an- 
swer. He  doubted  if  the  words  of  the  oracle  had  been  inter- 
preted aright  but  he  felt  that  in  this  crisis  he  stood  alone,  so 
he  finally  replied,  "Let  us  follow  your  father's  counsel." 

So  Cosijopii  dispatched  ambassadors  to  Zaachila  as  his 
father  had  bidden  him.  Upon  their  arrival  they  were  pre- 
sented to  Cosijoeza,  who  appointed  other  ambassadors  bring- 
ing the  total  up  to  twelve.  He  instructed  the  twelve  fully  and 
delivered  into  their  keeping  a  gift  from  Cortez. 

Leaving  Zaachila  they  journeyed  to  Tenochtitlan  and 
solicited  audience  of  the  Spanish  captain  who,  learning  from 
whence  they  came,  admitted  them  forthwith,  receiving  them 
with  a  show  of  great  cordiality. 


THE  MOUNTAIN  CATS  259 

The  leader  of  the  embassy  opened  the  conversation,  speak- 
ing to  the  following  effect:  * 'Mighty  lord,  in  the  names  of  the 
rulers  of  Zaachila  and  Tehuantepec,  also  mighty,  come  I  and 
my  companions  to  offer  unto  you  their  persons,  their  subjects, 
and  their  kingdoms ;  and  at  the  same  time  that  which  is  of  still 
greater  value,  their  friendship  loyal  and  enduring,  if  you  will 
be  pleased  to  receive  it,  even  in  the  same  spirit  as  that  in  which 
I  now  offer  you  this  gift  of  jewels  and  gold,  which  out  of 
their  good  will  they  send  you." 

Cortez  was  greatly  pleased,  not  only  with  the  rich  gifts 
which  they  laid  at  his  feet,  but  even  more  with  the  homage 
of  their  principals. 

"Brave  Zapotecs,"  he  said,  "I  receive  the  homage  tendered 
by  your  masters  as  representative  of  the  king  of  Spain,  whom 
all  should  recognize  as  lord.  As  for  me,  I  am  but  his  mes- 
senger sent  to  make  known  to  the  peoples  of  this  land  the 
true  God  of  Heaven  and  Earth.  You  will  tell  my  good  friends 
that  I  shall  acquaint  my  king  with  their  submission  and  good 
will  and  that  they  may  expect  of  his  goodness  great  recom- 
pense, as  they  shall  shortly  see.  In  the  meantime,"  he  added, 
"you  will  please  convey  to  them  my  most  cordial  greetings." 

He  then  presented  each  member  of  the  embassy  with  a 
rosary  of  glass  beads  and  solemnly  committing  to  their  keeping 
some  equally  worthless  trinkets  to  be  delivered  to  the  lords  of 
Zapoteca,  dismissed  them ;  and  they  returned  to  their  country, 
their  souls  filled  with  great  wonder  at  the  forms,  costume, 
arms  and  horses  of  the  Castilians. 

Moctezuma,  who  learned  through  Cortez  of  the  pledges 
of  friendship  which  the  embassy  had  offered  him,  was  greatly 
angered  at  the  news,  for  he  had  hoped  that  they  and  the  Taras- 
cans,  the  two  most  powerful  independent  peoples,  would  lend 
aid  to  save  the  situation  in  Anahuac,  compromised  through 
his  weakness. 


260  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Meanwhile  Cosijoeza  was  having  his  own  share  of  trouble 
with  the  Mountain  Cats.  The  action  of  Cosijoeza  and  Cosijopii, 
abdicating  in  favor  of  the  king  of  Spain  the  thrones  which 
they  had  until  then  occupied  with  so  great  fame,  produced  in 
the  Mixtecs  profound  misgivings,  for  they  viewed  all  friend- 
ship with  the  foreigners  with  dismay.  "There  are  no  two 
ways  about  it,"  they  declared,  "it  is  unbecoming  and  unworthy 
of  a  ruler  to  ask  aught  of  these  adventurers  who  are  trying 
to  subjugate  the  land." 

These  just  and  patriotic  considerations  as  well  as  the  Son- 
tempt  with  which  Cosijoeza  viewed  the  Mixtecs  who  had  lent 
him  such  timely  assistance  at  Quiengola,  of  which  the  invasion 
of  Cuilapan  was  proof  sufficient,  moved  them  to  sever  every 
bond  of  friendship  and,  taught  by  experience  and  having  had 
time  to  prepare  their  offensive,  they  hastened  to  make  an  end 
of  the  war. 

The  people  of  Cuilapan  reinforced  by  contingents  from 
the  other  members  of  the  league  took  the  initiative  and  attack- 
ed the  Zapotecs  in  their  own  positions,  which  were  one  by  one 
taken  by  main  force.  The  capital,  Zaachila,  was  next  besieged 
and  taken  and  Cosijoeza  was  compelled  to  flee  for  refuge  to 
the  mountain  now  called  the  Breast  of  Maria  Sanchez,  situated 
near  Santa  Ana  Zegache.  From  that  point  he  issued  urgent 
orders  to  the  chiefs  who  recognized  his  authority,  and  in  par- 
ticular to  the  chief  of  Magdalena  Mixtepec,  to  come  to  his 
aid  in  all  haste  with  men  and  munitions  of  war. 

The  Mixtecs  were  in  the  meantime  engaged  in  re-establish- 
ing order  in  Zaachila  and  in  conquering  the  towns  of  the  north- 
ern part  of  the  valley,  as  far  as  Huayapan.  These  operations 
finished  they  turned  toward  the  last  place  of  refuge  of  Cosi- 
joeza, to  which  they  laid  siege  with  such  vigor  that  his  position 


THE  MOUNTAIN  CATS  261 

became  critical  in  the  extreme.  By  this  time  the  conflagra- 
tion extended  westwardly  unto  Chichicapan  and  in  a  southerly 
direction  to  what  is  now  San  Martin  Lachilaa. 

But  the  vengeance  of  the  Mixtecs  was  still  unsated.  Not 
satisfied  with  these  triumphs  they  sent  a  message  to  the  king 
of  Tututepec,  a  member  of  the  Mixtec  league  who  dwelt  in  the 
extreme  southwest,  bidding  him  march  from  his  capital  toward 
the  coasts  of  Tehuantepec,  distracting  Cosijopii  upon  that  side 
so  as  to  prevent  him  from  marching  with  reinforcements  to 
the  assistance  of  his  father.  This  King  Casandoo  at  once 
did,  dispatching  four  regiments  under  the  command  of  an  able 
captain. 

The  territories  of  Cosijopii,  who  had  kept  the  peace  for 
three  years  and  had  until  then  been  feared  and  respected  by 
his  neighbors,  were  again  and  again  ravaged  by  the  Mixtecs. 
The  bonfires  of  the  enemy  blazed  on  every  hill,  their  war  songs 
were  heard  in  the  distance,  cruel  and  impious  war  raged 
throughout  the  southern  part  of  the  kingdom,  and  Cosijopii 
was  enveloped  by  the  storm.  The  somber  prediction  pro- 
nounced at  his  birth  began  to  bear  fruit  and  the  destruction  of 
an  entire  battalion  which  had  been  posted  on  the  frontier 
seemed  to  verify  it  beyond  doubt. 

This  reverse  and  the  critical  situation  of  his  father,  of 
which  a  courier  had  just  brought  him  word,  served  but  to  fire 
his  valor.  He  collected  a  strong  army  and  set  out  from  Te- 
huantepec to  relieve  Cosijoeza;  but  he  was  detained  in  his 
march,  for  Casandoo  had  defeated  the  warriors  of  Miahuatlan 
at  Dannixene,  Guinas,  and  Tinagole  and  was  prepared  to  at- 
tack Cosijopii  if  he  came  to  their  relief. 

In  view  of  the  attitude  of  the  Mixtecs,  Cosijopii  deter- 
mined to  act  on  the  defensive.  He  threw  forces  into  Quiengola 
and  Quiengolani  and  immediately  sent  a  messenger  with  a 
present  of  gold  to  Cortez,  advising  him  that  in  consequence 


262  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

of  the  pact  of  friendship  which  he  had  made  with  him  he  had 
been  attacked  by  Casandoo  and  was  unable  to  withstand  him ; 
that  his  father  was  besieged  by  the  Mixtecs  for  the  same  rea- 
son ;  and  that  to  save  the  situation  it  was  necessary  that  the 
Spaniards  send  troops  at  once.  If  this  were  done  they  might 
by  combining  their  forces  save  the  kingdom  from  destruction. 
This  action  on  the  part  of  Cosijopii  changed  the  face  of 
the  Mixtec-Zapotec  war  and  to  it  was  due  the  fact  that  the 
mountain  of  Maria  Sanchez  was  not  the  tomb  of  that  crafty 
old  fox,  Cosijoeza. 

Now  Cortez  was  a  man  ever  faithful  to  those  who  were 
faithful  to  him,  and  no  sooner  had  he  received  the  messenger 
from  the  king  of  Tehuantepec  and  learned  of  him  the  evil 
plight  of  Cosijoeza  than  he  ordered  Francisco  de  Orozco  to 
proceed  to  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca  and  establish  peace  between 
the  Mixtecs  and  Zapotecs. 

Orozco  accordingly  left  Coyoacan  on  October  30, 1521, with 
thirty  horsemen,  eighty  Spanish  infantry,  and  a  great  number 
of  Indian  auxiliaries  and  proceeded  towards  the  country  of  the 
Mixtecs.  He  entered  their  territories  on  the  Sixth  of  Novem- 
ber and  fought  three  severe  engagements  in  which  many  were 
slain  on  both  sides.  In  the  end  he  succeeded  in  forcing  a  pas- 
sage of  the  San  Antonio  River  and  penetrated  to  the  Valley 
of  Oaxaca. 

On  November  25,  1521,  the  Spanish  expeditionary  force 
occupied  the  site  of  the  present  town  of  Santa  Anita,  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Atoyac  and  the  slope  of  Monte  Alban. 
Here,  beneath  a  huaje  tree  (acacia  sculenta)  the  first  mass 
was  said  by  Father  Juan  Diaz.* 

*At  the  place  where  this  tree  stood  there  was  erected  about  1826  the 
hermitage  of  Our  Lady  of  Remedies,  adjoining  the  national  highway  and 
at  a  short  distance  from  Garita  de  Xoxo. 


THE  MOUNTAIN  CATS  263 

In  later  times  the  Catholic  clergy  were  accustomed  to 
celebrate  this  great  event  annually  at  the  church  of  San  Juan 
de  Dios,  anciently  called  Santa  Catarina.  This  church  having 
been  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  on  December  31,  1603,  the 
chapter  arranged  that  thereafter  the  festival  should  be  held 
on  July  8,  the  octave  of  San  Martial,  at  the  church  of  the 
Merciful.  After  vespers  the  religious  formed  in  procession 
and  the  gentry  of  the  neighborhood  all  appeared  mounted,  but 
upon  reaching  the  gate  of  the  cemetery  they  dismounted  and 
entered  the  church  in  order  of  precedence,  and  there  they  re- 
mained until  five  or  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  witnessing  the 
ceremonies  of  the  occasion. 

The  following  morning  the  civil  and  ecclesiastical  func- 
tionaries, notables,  and  a  great  multitude  of  the  people  at- 
tended mass,  and  after  the  service  they  marched  in  solemn 
procession,  bearing  at  the  front  an  ancient  banner,  the  royal 
standard  bestowed,  as  some  said,  upon  the  city  as  a  mark  of 
royal  favor,  or  won,  according  to  others,  by  the  Conquistador. 

But  we  have  wandered  from  our  subject.  The  garrison  of 
Huaxyacac,  which  was  not  thought  strong  enough  to  with- 
stand the  enemy,  withdrew  to  Penoles  where  it  made  common 
cause  with  the  Mixtecs,  retiring  into  the  fortress  of  Ixcuin- 
tepec,  a  rock  surrounded  by  a  stone  wall  of  more  than  a  league 
in  circuit. 

The  place  being  thus  abandoned,  Orozco  and  Juan  Nunez 
del  Mercado  occupied  Guazaca  (as  they  called  Huaxyacac),  a 
civil  government  was  instituted,  Gutierrez  cle  Badajoz  who 
accompanied  the  expedition  with  others  of  the  town  of  Segura 
de  la  Frontera,  now  Tepeaca,  State  of  Puebla,  being  appointed 
alcalde  of  Huaxyacac,  rechristened  Villa  de  Segura  de  la 
Frontera. 


264  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Cortez  directed  this  step  from  his  residence  at  Coyoacan. 
It  was  the  beginning  of  the  Spanish  city,  at  first  called  Ante- 
quera,  afterwards  Guaxaca,  and  finally  corrupted  into  Oaxaca. 

As  soon  as  Orozco  had  made  himself  master  of  Huaxyacac 
he  sent  word  to  the  Mixtecs  and  Zapotecs,  commanding  them 
to  cease  hostilities.  "Have  done  with  your  strife,"  ran  the 
mandate,  "since  your  territories  belong  to  the  king  of  Spain 
who  is  lord  of  the  whole  land  and  who  in  future  you  must  re- 
spect and  obey." 

The  Mixtecs  were  deeply  offended  at  this,  which  they  con- 
sidered an  act  of  gross  impertinence,  but  they  were  a  wise 
people  and  abstained  from  committing  themselves  to  an  open 
breach  with  the  Spaniard.  They  refrained  from  attacking 
him  but  endeavored  to  justify  their  conduct,  alleging  that  to 
retire  meant  the  loss  of  their  conquests  and  the  opportunity 
of  avenging  themselves  upon  Cosijoeza;  and  that,  on  the  other 
hand  that  king,  the  siege  abandoned,  would  unite  his  forces 
with  those  already  on  the  road  to  relieve  him  and  would  then 
overrun  their  territories.  They  added  that  they  were  very 
loath  to  withdraw  because  they  would  then  be  charged  with 
weakness  and  cowardice. 

But  Cosijoeza  being  the  ally  of  Cortez  these  objections 
had  no  weight  with  Orozco,  who  threatened  to  make  war  upon 
the  Mixtecs  unless  they  complied  with  his  demands.  This 
threat  accomplished  its  immediate  purpose,  the  cessation  of 
hostilities.  An  armistice,  however,  and  not  a  permanent  peace, 
was  the  result. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
PRINCESS  GREAT-SOUL. 

BUT  the  Mixtecs  would  by  no  means  yield  Monte  Alban, 
the  continued  possession  of  which  they  deemed  essen- 
tial to  their  safety.    Since  they  distrusted  Cosijoeza 
whose  subtle  policy  had  so  often  taken  them  by  surprise,  so 
that  they  had  more  than  once  been  the  victims  of  his  stra- 
tagems, they  demanded  of  him  a  pledge  that  the  Zapotecs 
would  refrain  from  attempting  to  retake  the  fortifications  on 
Monte  Alban. 

"Let  the  Princess  Donaji*  be  given  as  a  hostage  to  the 
people  of  Cuilapan,"  they  said,  "and  let  her  life  be  the  forfeit 
if  her  father  fail  in  his  promises." 

Seeing  no  other  way  out  of  the  difficulty,  Cosijoeza  con- 
sented to  this  and  sent  the  princess  to  the  Mixtec  camp  where 
she  was  received  with  the  honor  due  her  rank  and  remained  in 
pledge  of  peace. 

The  Mixtecs  then  raised  the  siege  and  Cosijoeza  was  set 
at  liberty.  He  was  not  long  in  conferring  with  Orozco  and 
as  a  result  sent  forces  to  succor  Miahuatlan  and  orders  to 
Cosijopii  to  move  upon  Zaachila,  taking  the  Quiechapa  road, 
to  assist  in  the  military  operations  of  that  district. 

As  soon  as  Casandoo  learned  of  this  he  retired  to  Tutu- 
tepee  and  prepared  to  defend  the  integrity  of  his  dominions, 
threatened  from  the  Valley  by  the  Spaniards.  The  impregna- 
ble rock  of  Ixcuitepec  guarded  his  frontier.  Orozco  attempted 
its  reduction,  but  finding  that  it  could  not  be  taken  by  force  of 

*Great  Soul. 

265 


266  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

arms  permitted  its  defenders  to  send  a  delegation  to  Cortez 
to  treat  with  him  and  another  to  the  king  of  Achiutla  for  in- 
structions. The  former  returned  shortly  with  bad  news :  The 
Aztecs  were  conquered;  Cortez  would  grant  peace. 

Dzahuindanda  advised  by  his  priests  thereupon  ordered 
the  Mixtecs  to  surrender  to  Orozco,  informing  him  that  they 
did  so  because  it  was  the  will  of  the  gods,  who  judged  the  fur- 
ther shedding  of  blood  to  be  useless.  Whereupon  all  returned 
to  their  home,  contented,  the  Mixtecs  retaining  their  positions 
and  the  Mexicans  remaining  in  possession  of  Huaxyacac, 
Tepeaca,  Jalatco,  Xochimilco,  the  Marquesate,  Mexicapan,  and 
San  Juan  Chapultepec.  Some  four  thousand  persons  who  had 
come  with  the  Spaniards  were  united  with  the  former  colony 
at  Huaxyacac,  forming  the  foundation  upon  which  was  erected 
the  new  municipality  of  Segura  de  la  Frontera. 

In  the  meantime  Father  Juan  Diaz  was  busily  engaged  in 
baptizing  many  Indians  of  both  races,  among  them  the  Prin- 
cess Donaji  who  was  baptized  under  the  name  of  Dona  Juana. 
The  Indians  regarded  this  as  merely  a  political  function  indi- 
cative of  subjection  to  the  Spaniard.  That  they  had  no  idea 
of  its  religious  significance  will  appear  later. 

"My  lord,"  said  Alarii  to  Cosijopii,  "last  night  I  saw  the 
soft  golden  light  of  a  fire  on  the  summit  of  Mount  Quiengola, 
and  surely  thou  knowest  that  this  betokens  misfortune." 

"Let  it  be  even  as  the  gods  will,"  responded  the  king  with 
resignation,  "for  they  dispose  of  the  great  of  this  Earth  as 
the  fishermen  of  Roaloo  set  their  nets  in  that  beautiful  lake. 
Alarii,"  he  continued,  placing  his  hand  upon  the  minister's 
shoulder,  "let  us  act  as  does  the  brook  of  the  mountain  glen, 
running  straight  where  there  is  no  impediment  and  making  a 
turn  when  necessary,  yet  ever  without  complaining." 


PRINCESS  GREAT  SOUL  267 

Then  Alarii  spoke  openly :  "A  messenger  has  just  arrived 
from  Zaachila.  He  is  the  bearer  of  evil  tidings. " 

"Let  him  enter  that  we  may  hear  the  story  from  his  own 
lips,"  replied  the  king. 

"Noble  lord,"  said  the  courier,  "our  people  have  bowed 
the  head  to  the  Castilian.  Your  father  Cosijoeza,  driven  out 
of  Zaachila  by  the  Mixtecs,  has  been  compelled  by  circum- 
stance to  enter  into  a  humiliating  alliance  with  the  stranger; 
humiliating  since  he  loses  his  throne,  already  abdicated  in 
favor  of  an  unknown  king,  and  is  now  stripped  of  his  prero- 
gatives. Only  at  this  price  has  he  been  able  to  save  his  life 
and  the  lives  of  the  members  of  the  royal  family.  The  proud 
warrior  of  the  Valley  and  conqueror  of  the  Aztecs  is  no  longer 
the  father  of  his  people  but  the  miserable  slave  of  that  monarch 
whom  the  strangers  call  Charles  the  Fifth." 

"He  has  spoken,"  said  Alarii  bowing  low  before  the  young 
king. 

"I  was  born  to  misfortune,  my  dear  friend,"  said  the 
prince  with  resignation,  "misfortune  has  followed  me  from 
the  day  of  my  birth.  A  voice  of  terror  fills  the  heavens  and 
the  thunderbolt  of  desolation  has  wounded  us  unto  death." 

"I  have  but  informed  you  of  your  father's  condition," 
said  the  messenger.  "Permit  me  to  complete  my  errand.  He 
wishes  you  to  dispatch  a  strong  force  to  Quiechapa  to  succor 
the  people  of  Miahuatlan  and  then  move  upon  Zaachila  to 
reinforce  that  point." 

"You  will  set  out  upon  your  return  at  once,"  the  king 
replied,  "and  tell  my  father  that  I  will  tomorrow  dispatch  six 
batallions  of  one  thousand  men  each  to  the  Valley  of  Loolaa.* 
If  he  needs  more  than  this  number,  you  are  authorized  to  take 
from  them  that  are  in  Quiengolani,  on  the  summit  of  the  moun- 

*0axaca. 


268  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

tain.  I  will  direct  the  commander  there  to  place  at  your  dis- 
posal such  forces  as  you  may  require." 

December  came.  The  little  princess  Donaji  sat  brooding 
in  her  unaccustomed  confinement.  Very  gentle  she  seemed 
and  little  her  captors  dreamed  of  what  was  passing  in  her 
heart.  She  was  the  child  of  Cosijoeza  and  his  heroic  spirit 
burned  within  her  bosom.  "I  am  become  a  millstone  about  the 
neck  of  my  people,"  she  whispered  to  herself,  "I  am  dragging 
them  down  to  destruction.  I  must  find  a  way  to  free  them; 
yes,  though  it  be  at  the  sacrifice  of  my  life."  She  still  sat  there 
very  quietly,  did  little  Donaji. 

Some  nights  later  the  princess  discovered  that  the  Mixtec 
guard  was  sleeping  in  heedless  abandon  and,  ready  to  yield 
up  her  own  life,  if  need  be,  that  her  countrymen  might  be 
free,  sent  a  female  attendant  by  stealth  to  the  men  of  Zaachila 
with  a  message  bidding  them  fall  upon  the  enemy's  camp  with- 
out loss  of  time,  for  that  the  guard  slept  at  their  post.  They 
at  once  apprised  Cosijoeza  of  the  situation,  and  he  answered 
consenting  to  the  attack  provided  every  precaution  were  taken 
to  rescue  Donaji ;  and  thereupon  they  sent  back  word  that  they 
were  about  to  attack,  but  that  she  must  manage  to  make  good 
her  escape  when  a  warning  arrow  was  shot  into  her  apartment. 

The  signal  of  assault  given,  the  Zapotecs  assaulted  the 
fortifications  and  made  a  great  slaughter  of  their  enemies. 
Taken  completely  by  surprise,  the  latter  wavered  for  the  mo- 
ment, giving  way  before  the  superior  numbers  and  resistless 
impetuosity  of  the  assailants,  and  finally  retired  in  order  over 
the  northern  slopes  of  Monte  Alban. 

The  victors  searched  high  and  low  but  could  find  nothing 
of  the  princess.  Finally  one  of  the  prisoners  enlightened  them. 
"She  is  not  here,"  he  said.  "Upon  an  arrow  penetrating  her 
apartment,  evidently  shot  on  purpose  by  a  skillful  archer,  she 


Ruins  of  MitJa,  Where  Cosjjoeza  was  Burie 


m 


Another  View  of  Mitla  Ruins,  the  Seat  of  the  Zapotecs  Ancient  Splendor 


PRINCESS  GREAT  SOUL  269 

was  hurried  from  the  room  by  the  captains  who  had  her  in 
charge.  They  took  her  with  them  and  all  chance  of  rescue  is 
past,  for  they  must  have  slain  her  ere  this." 

And  so  in  truth  it  befell.  By  the  right  bank  of  the  Atoyac 
the  Mixtec  leaders  met  in  council  and  decreed  the  death  of 
Donaji  for  having  violated  the  pact.  And  there  they  slew  her, 
burying  the  body  on  the  spot  that  the  Zapotecs  might  not  learn 
of  her  end. 

The  two  nations  now  seemed  upon  the  eve  of  a  general 
resumption  of  hostilities.  Cosijoeza  was  at  the  point  of  attack- 
ing Cuilapan  and  the  Mixtecs  Zaachila,  for  both  sides  were 
strong  and  their  mutual  resentment  was  deep-seated;  but 
Orozco  intervened  and  they  contented  themselves  with  holding 
their  old  positions. 

Perhaps  matters  would  have  proceeded  quickly  to  the 
shedding  of  blood  had  not  the  great  lieutenant  of  Cortez,  Pedro 
de  Alvarado,  arrived  in  time  to  remedy  the  situation.  As  soon 
as  Alvarado  reached  Zaachila  he  established  peace  in  such 
manner  that  the  Mixtecs  and  Zapotecs  laid  aside  their  enmities 
forever.  He  then  marched  upon  Tututepec  and  attacked 
Casandoo,  the  soul  of  the  war,  who  was  threatening  by  turns 
the  valley  of  Loolaa  and  the  kingdom  of  Tehuantepec. 

After  a  time,  we  are  told,  the  Zapotecs  discovered  that 
the  body  of  Princess  Donaji  had  been  buried  at  a  point  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Atoyac.  They  visited  the  spot.  A  blue  lily 
grew  from  her  blood.  They  removed  it  and  opening  the  grave 
beheld  the  mortal  remains  of  Donaji,  but  they  marveled  greatly 
on  beholding  the  head  lowered,  the  face  turned  to  the  east 
and  somewhat  inclined  to  the  left,  with  the  roots  of  the  lily 


270  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

spread  over  the  forehead  and  right  temple.  Thus  she  lay  ap- 
parently sleeping,  her  body  having  been  miraculously  pre- 
served from  putrefaction.* 

Rightly  attributing  this  prodigy  to  the  favor  of  the  gods 
they  left  the  remains  as  they  found  them,  for  they  interpreted 
it  as  favorable  to  their  destiny,  making  manifest  that  in  the 
days  to  come  the  Zapotecs  would  recover  their  power  and  the 
surrounding  nations  would  become  subject  unto  them. 

The  likeness  of  a  woman's  head  appears  in  the  coat  of 
arms  of  the  State  of  Oaxaca.  It  is  the  head  of  the  little  Za- 
potec  heroine,  Donaji,  placed  there  by  the  state  authorities 
in  the  year  1827.  The  children  of  Petela  still  make  up  the 
great  bulk  of  the  inhabitants  of  Oaxaca ;  it  is  their  state,  and 
among  its  many  noble  women  there  is  none  to  compare  with 
little  Great-Soul,  who  gave  her  life  in  the  last  attempt  to  pre- 
serve the  independency  of  her  people.  The  mysterious  legend 
of  her  death  was  obtained  by  Manuel  Gracida  from  the  tradi- 
tion preserved  by  certain  old  residents  of  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca, 
and  accords  with  the  prognostication  made  at  her  birth. 

*In  Cuilapan  is  a  sepulcher  bearing  this  inscription:  "Don  Juan 
Agular — Dona  Juana  Cortez."  The  first  is  the  Prince  of  Tilontongo,  who 
was  governor  of  the  Zapotecs  after  the  death  of  Cosijoeza;  and  the  sec- 
ond is  the  Princess  Donaji,  whose  remains  we  believe  may  have  been  re- 
moved to  that  tomb  by  the  Dominican  friars  upon  building  the  church. 
Tradition  is  silent  on  this  point. 


CHAPTER  XX. 
THE  COMING  OF  ALVARADO, 

ALL  glory  be  unto  Allah  most  high,  the  Lord  of  the  Day 
of  Judgment.    Unto  him  alone  it  pertaineth  to  de- 
cree destinies  and  to  determine  that  which  shall 
come  to  pass.    Needs  must  thy  servant  recount  how  manifold 
evils  befell  the  Land  of  Zapoteca,  though  it  be  not  clear  to 
mortal  understanding  wherefore  the  Arm  of  Might  was  not 
withholden.    But  who  may  question  the  counsels  of  the  Most 
Compassionate?  Inshallah!    Such  blasphemy  is  not  permitted 
unto  the  true  believer.    Let  us  then  proceed. 

I  know  not  whether  it  was  that  old  Casandoo  was  more 
turbulent  than  Dzahuindanda  and  Oconana,  the  other  Mixtec 
kings,  or  if  perchance  he  put  less  faith  in  the  specious  promises 
of  the  Castilian.  Perhaps  he  was  more  patriotic  than  they. 
But  in  any  event  he  waged  incessant  warfare  against  the  Za- 
potecs  and  Spaniards,  doing  them  all  the  harm  in  his  power, 
regardless  of  consequences. 

As  this  ruler  continued  obstinate  and  utterly  refused  to 
recognize  the  Spanish  authority,  nothing  remained  but  to 
bring  him  to  reason  by  force  of  arms.  Cortez  accordingly 
directed  Pedro  de  Alvarado  to  proceed  to  the  conquest  of 
Tututepec. 

This  famous  captain  left  Coyoacan  on  January  31,  1522, 
with  35  horsemen,  180  Spanish  infantry,  and  more  than  5,000 
Mexican  auxiliaries  under  Ixtlilxochil.  He  reached  Huaxyacac 
about  February  20  and  remained  six  days  at  that  city  and 
Zaachila.  During  this  time  the  forces  from  Tehuantepec 

271 


272  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

which  Cosijopii  had  dispatched  to  the  succor  of  Miahuatlan 
appeared  and  presented  themselves  before  Cosijoeza. 

In  the  meantime  Alvarado,  with  the  assistance  of  the  wise 
and  prudent  Father  Olmedo,  consolidated  the  peace  between 
the  Zapotecs  and  Mixtecs  with  such  success  that  the  two 
peoples  forgot  their  animosities  and  became  good  friends  as 
of  yore.  The  combined  commands  of  Orozco  and  Alvarado 
made  up  a  force  of  80  horse,  200  Spanish  infantry,  and  5,000 
Mexicans,  which,  united  to  10,000  Zapotecs  placed  by  Cosi- 
joeza at  their  command,  gave  them  15,280  men;  with  which 
army  Alvarado  set  out  from  Huaxyacac  (then  Segura  de  la 
Frontera)  on  the  twenty-sixth  of  February  in  the  direction  of 
Coatlan,  marching  by  the  way  of  the  great  valley. 

After  three  or  four  engagements  with  the  southern  Mix- 
tecs,  who  were  dispersed  without  any  great  difficulty,  on  the 
fourth  of  March  Alvarado  discried  Tututepec  in  the  distance. 

Casandoo  fought  stubbornly  against  him.  Seeing  that 
further  resistance  was  useless  and  bearing  in  mind  the  old 
adage  that  discretion  is  the  better  part  of  valor,  he  decided 
upon  a  complete  reversal  of  policy.  He  went  forth  with  the 
principal  men  of  his  court  to  meet  the  conqueror,  whom  he 
conducted  to  his  palace,  and  in  that  palace,  spacious  and  beau- 
tiful, the  Spaniard  and  his  soldiers  were  entertained  with  the 
utmost  hospitality.  We  shall  see  in  what  manner  Alvarado 
repaid  the  king's  kindness. 

A  few  days  after  they  entered  the  city  Olmedo  pointed 
out  to  Alvarado  that  since  the  roof  of  the  royal  palace,  like 
those  of  the  adjoining  buildings,  was  covered  with  thatch, 
they  ran  great  risk  that  the  inhabitants,  being  still  hostile, 
might  set  fire  to  the  whole  neighborhood  as  soon  as  the  Span- 
iards relaxed  their  vigilance. 

"By  this  means,'*  he  said,  "they  can  by  enveloping  us  in 


THE  COMING  OF  ALVARADO  273 

flames  fight  us  successfully.  In  such  an  emergency  our  cavalry 
would  be  useless  since  the  town  is  situated  on  broken  ground. 
I  have  for  some  time  been  studying  the  situation  carefully 
and  have  already  found  a  safe  position  just  outside  the  town, 
to  which  he  had  best  withdraw." 

Alvarado  heeded  this  timely  advice  and,  commending  the 
priest  for  his  zeal,  removed  with  his  troops  to  the  site  fixed 
upon. 

The  honest  old  king  followed  him  to  his  camp,  and  sup- 
posing that  Alvarado  had  been  won  over  by  his  kindness  and 
was  about  to  retire  from  his  dominions,  presented  him  with 
a  substantial  gift  of  gold,  pearls,  and  precious  stones,  and 
at  the  same  time  provided  him  with  abundance  of  provisions. 

This  generosity  was  the  ruin  of  Casandoo,  who  was 
ignorant  not  only  of  the  real  cause  for  the  withdrawal  of  the 
Spaniards  from  the  city  but — a  more  fatal  ignorance — of  the 
character  of  the  Spanish  leader. 

For  the  cupidity  of  Alvarado  was  awakened  by  this  gift. 
He  demanded  greater  and  ever  greater  sums  of  the  king,  who 
made  him  daily  gifts.  Indeed,  the  thirst  of  this  "illustrious 
and  Christian"  conqueror  reached  such  a  pass  that,  notwith- 
standing what  he  had  already  secured,  he  ordered  the  king 
to  have  his  goldsmiths  make  for  him  stirrups  of  gold  similar 
to  the  wooden  ones  which  he  possessed.  Marvelous  as  it  may 
seem,  this  was  done.  He  next  directed  them  to  make  a  chain 
of  gold  for  his  horse  and  the  king  delivered  it  without  delay, 
for  the  Indians  handled  gold  as  though  it  were  clay  or  wax. 

His  greed  still  unsatisfied,  Alvarado  demanded  more  gold 
and  the  king,  whose  treasures  were  now  exhausted,  was  un- 
able to  comply.  Vexed  at  his  refusal  the  unscrupulous  ad- 
venturer charged  the  honest  Casandoo  with  having  formed  a 


274  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

conspiracy  to  burn  the  palace  that  the  Spaniards  might  per- 
ish  in  the  flames. 

The  king,  who  would  have  considered  such  an  act  deroga- 
tory to  the  honor  of  the  lord  of  Tututepec,  protested  and 
vigorously  maintained  his  innocence.  But  it  is  folly  to  plead 
with  the  unscrupulous  when  he  has  one  at  his  mercy.  Alva- 
rado  not  only  would  not  listen  but  on  the  contrary,  treating 
Casandoo  with  studied  contempt,  ordered  him  to  be  placed 
in  irons  and  imprisoned  until  he  turned  over  his  royal 
treasures. 

Ixtlilxochil  asserts  that  he  suggested  and  advised  this  act 
of  treachery,  while  Bernal  Diaz  says  that  the  Zapotecs  insti- 
gated it  through  hatred  of  the  Mixtecs.  But  who  will  rely 
on  the  testimony  of  the  former?  and  as  for  Diaz,  he  speaks 
from  hearsay.  Gracida  thinks  the  whole  matter  a  gratuitous 
invention  of  Father  Olmedo  which  Alvarado  turned  to  his 
own  account  to  obtain  the  king's  treasure,  with  which  view 
I  coincide. 

Neither  the  king's  innocence  nor  his  treasures,  of  the 
value  of  thirty-six  thousand  pesos,  sufficed  to  liberate  him 
from  prison.  Fretting  under  this  unaccustomed  usage,  his 
health  failed.  Father  Olmedo  attempted  to  console  him  in  his 
misfortune,  but  his  soft  words  availed  not  to  stay  the  fatal 
hour  and  in  a  few  days  he  died  of  rage  and  despair. 

Upon  his  death  the  royal  prerogative  descended  to  his 
son  who,  being  in  Alvarado's  power,  suffered  even  greater 
despoliation  than  his  father. 

Cortez,  learning  that  Tututepec  was  the  center  of  a  rich 
and  populous  district  and  fearing  that  the  disaffected  Mixtecs 
might  rise  in  revolt,  thought  it  best  to  establish  a  colony 
at  that  point.  He  accordingly  directed  Badajoz  to  transfer 


THE  COMING  OF  ALVARADO  275 

the  corporation  of  Segura  de  la  Frontera  from  Huaxyacac  to 
Tututepec.  This  was  done.  In  March,  1522,  Badajoz  left 
Huaxyacac  with  all  the  members  of  the  colony.  Arriving  at 
Tututepec  he  immediately  set  about  apportioning  lands  among 
the  colonists,  whom  he  continued  to  govern  as  alcalde. 

This  disposition  of  Cortez  who  had  in  view  the  reserva- 
tion for  himself  of  a  rich  district,  for  the  time  being  furthered 
the  plans  of  Alvarado  who,  being  in  authority  in  a  hostile 
land,  could  practice  every  sort  of  extortion  while  widows 
mourned  the  disappearance  of  their  husbands  and  orphans 
the  loss  of  their  parents. 

Utterly  licentious  and  selfish,  he  came  very  near  perish- 
ing at  the  hands  of  his  own  men.  The  Spanish  soldiers,  with 
equal  will  but  lacking  his  special  means  of  enforcing  com- 
pliance, following  his  example  had  tried,  but  with  indifferent 
success,  to  enrich  themselves.  "If  the  captain  puts  the  lead- 
ing Indians  in  the  cannon's  mouth  to  force  them  to  give  up 
their  gold,  and  kills  them,"  they  reasoned,  "as  he  has  done 
with  many  who  failed  to  yield,  so  let  us  also  be  diligent,  since 
he  pays  us  so  illy."  They  robbed  but  obtained  so  little  that 
they  became  the  more  infuriated  against  Alvarado,  who  had 
taken  what  in  their  opinion  belonged  of  right  to  them. 

The  disaffection  spread  and  it  was  not  long  before  a  plot 
was  formed  to  make  away  with  Alvarado;  but  it  failed  because 
one  of  the  conspirators,  the  soldier  Trebejo,  revealed  the  con- 
spiracy to  Father  Olmedo. 

The  priest  informed  Alvarado  of  the  plot.  As  he  was 
hunting  at  the  time  with  certain  of  the  conspirators  he  dis- 
sembled and,  pretending  to  be  taken  by  a  sudden  pain  in  the 
side,  returned  to  his  dwelling.  From  thence  by  means  of  the 
alcaldes,  constables,  and  his  brothers  Gonzalo  and  Jorge  he 
apprehended  the  ringleaders  of  the  conspiracy,  two  of  whom 


276 


THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 


were  hung,  receiving  the  consolations  of  religion  from  the 
same  Father  Olmedo  who  had  betrayed  them. 


The  conspiracy  of  Tututepec  nipped  in  the  bud,  Alvarado 
prepared  to  proceed  against  the  Chontals.  These  Indians, 
a  race  totally  distinct  from  Mixtec  and  Zapotec,  occupied  an 
enclave  in  the  Zapotec  country  stretching  from  the  seacoast 
northward  toward  Miahuatlan;  their  principal  cities  being 
Aztata  and  Huamelula.  They  had  shown  hostility  toward  a 
party  of  Spaniards  sent  out  to  explore  the  coast  lands,  stoning 
some  of  them  at  Aztata  and  compelling  the  remainder  to  beat 
a  hasty  retreat  to  save  their  lives.  Angered  at  this,  Alvarado 
set  out  from  Tututepec  on  April  2,  1522,  accompanied  by  the 
son  of  King  Casandoo  and  his  allies,  proceeding  by  the  way  of 
the  coast.  Passing  by  Tonameca  he  learned  that  the  ruler  of 
that  place  was  rich,  and  upon  the  pretext  that  he  had  not 
recognized  the  Spanish  authority  commanded  him  to  be  seized 
and  imprisoned  together  with  certain  of  his  leading  men. 
Three  days  later  they  obtained  their  liberty  at  the  price  of 
much  gold  and  pearls. 

From  this  point  he  continued  his  journey  to  Pochutla. 
Thence  he  descended  to  the  coast  and  after  reconnoitering  tl 
littoral  directed  his  march  toward  Huatulco,  a  Chontal  towi 
which  at  first  threatened  hostilities  but  presently  yielded  an< 
opened  its  gates.    On  April  12  he  continued  his  march  throuj 
the  south  of  the  Chontal  country  where  the  Indians  offer* 
some  resistance.     Defeated  by  the  Spaniards  they  reconcen- 
trated  in  the  mountains. 

Four  days  later  Alvarado  reached  Aztata  and  proceed* 
to  wreak  vengeance  upon  the  place  for  the  ill  manner  in  whicl 
they  had  received  the  Spaniards,  killing  some  and  robbinj 
others  of  their  gold.  From  Aztata  he  passed  on  to  Huameluh 


I- 

o 


THE  COMING  OF  ALVARADO  277 

which  submitted  without  having  made  any  great  resistance, 
and  here  he  was  met  by  envoys  from  Cosijopii,  with  whom 
he  departed  for  Quiengola.  He  made  that  fortress  his  head- 
quarters until  the  twenty-third  of  the  month,  exploring  that 
portion  of  the  country  and,  the  exploration  concluded,  set  out 
for  Tehuantepec. 

On  the  following  day  he  drew  near  the  royal  city.  Cosi- 
jopii awaited  him  in  his  palace.  Alvarado  entered  Tehuan- 
tepec and  saluted  the  king  in  these  words : 

"Intrepid  prince,  rather  as  a  friend  than  as  the  conqueror 
of  this  beautiful  realm,  I  come  in  the  name  of  my  commander 
Hernando  Cortez  and  of  the  great  emperor  to  offer  you  their 
protection  and  tender  you  their  generous  friendship.  Your 
father  the  great  lord  of  Zaachila,  may  he  live  forever,  has 
accepted  this  offer  and  has  become  our  friend  and  colleague. 
This  is  well  known  to  you,  and  I  trust  you  will  not  lose  the 
opportunity  of  taking  this  occasion  to  become  our  friend  and 
the  subject  of  the  Emperor  Charles  V." 

~  Cosijopii  was  far  from  being  deceived  by  these  beguiling 
words,  for  he  had  heard  much  of  Alvarado's  conduct  at  Tutu- 
tepee  and  among  the  Chontals,  but  he  concealed  his  feelings. 
"I  appreciate  your  offer,  illustrious  captain,"  he  answered, 
diplomatically,  "and  since  the  gods  have  permitted  the  visita- 
tion of  our  realm  by  such  illustrious  guests  they  shall  be  re- 
ceived in  a  befitting  manner.  We  repose  the  utmost  confi- 
dence in  your  knightly  offers  and  bid  you  a  hearty  welcome 
to  our  city." 

The  Spanish  leader  bowed  in  token  of  a  humility  which 
he  was  far  from  feeling  and  the  king  continued:  "Here  near 
my  dwelling,  captain,  I  have  caused  quarters  to  be  prepared 
for  your  accommodation,  and  there,"  pointing  to  another 


278  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

building  at  some  distance,  "are  those  of  your  forces.  My  min- 
ister Alarii  will  conduct  you  to  them.  Take  possession  and 
enjoy  the  repose  which  you  so  richly  merit."  "Thanks,  my 
lord,"  Alvarado  replied,  and  entered  his  lodging  full  of  the 
confidence  born  of  finding  himself  at  last  quartered  within 
the  walls  of  a  friendly  city. 

Alvarado  pursued  the  same  course  with  the  kings  of 
Zaachila  and  Tehuantepec  as  his  superior,  Cortez,  had  pur- 
sued toward  the  Aztec  emperor;  the  same  dissimulation,  per- 
fidy, and  secret  deceit.  Cosijopii  was  not  slow  in  imitation, 
meeting  deceit  with  deceit.  It  availed  him  not  and  served  in 
the  end  but  to  bring  about  his  complete  downfall. 

Alvarado  was  greatly  pleased  with  the  city,  as  everyone 
has  been  who  has  ever  had  the  good  fortune  to  visit  it,  and 
rechristened  it  Guadalcazar  because  of  the  beautiful  river  on 
whose  banks  it  stood.  But  the  name  did  not  persist  and  the 
place  is  still  known  by  its  Aztec  name  of  Tehuantepec,*  though 
the  inhabitants  prefer  the  Zapotec  name  Guisi. 

Three  days  after  the  arrival  of  Alvarado,  the  king  ad- 
dressed his  minister  upon  the  subject  nearest  their  hearts. 
"I  perceive,  Alarii,"  he  said,  "that  you  are  in  great  anguish 
of  soul.  Have  courage ;  for  the  present  we  are  in  the  enemy's 
hands  and  can  do  nothing.  Listen.  Distrustful  as  to  what 
the  future  might  have  in  store  for  us,  last  night  I  went  secretly 
to  consult  Pezelao  for  the  last  time.  As  is  the  custom  on  such 
occasions,  I  vested  myself  in  the  double  robes  of  royalty  and 
the  priestly  office.  I  made  the  journey  alone  and,  as  our  rite 
directs,  to  the  temple  of  Monapoxtiac.  At  the  portal  I  ex- 
it is  a  curious  circumstance  that  practically  all  towns  in  the  Zapotec 
territory  bear  Aztec  names;  thus,  Miahuatlan,  Juchitan,  Ixtaltepec,  Nil- 
tepee,  Huilotepec,  Ocatlan.  Was  the  land  once  completely  dominated  by 
the  Aztec  power,  or  were  the  names  first  applied  by  Aztec  colonists  com- 
ing in  the  wake  of  the  Spaniard? 


THE  COMING  OF  ALVARADO  279 

tinguished  my  torch  and  put  off  my  sandals.  Complete  dark- 
ness enveloped  me.  No  sound  was  heard  save  that  made  by 
the  waves  of  the  lagoon  dashing  against  the  foundation  of 
the  edifice  and  the  low  mutterings  of  the  guardians  of  the 
sanctuary.  I  invoked  the  presence  of  the  Oracle  of  Heaven, 
rapping  three  times  with  the  sacred  rod.  I  consulted  the  god 
and  in  a  sad  voice  he  responded:  Thy  empire  is  at  an  end 
as  I  have  already  told  thee,  and  with  it  the  religion  of  thy 
forefathers.'  He  spoke  no  more." 

"Break  then  the  arrows  of  our  warriors,"  said  the  aged 
counselor  in  despair,  "and  may  the  robes  of  our  seers  and 
the  flutes  of  our  priests  be  consigned  to  the  flames  that  are  to 
consume  and  destroy  our  race." 

But  Cosijopii  was  younger  and  hope  died  less  easily  in 
his  heart.  He  reassured  his  minister  and  before  dismissing 
him  gave  instructions  as  well  for  the  security  of  the  kingdom 
as  for  the  hospitable  care  of  the  Spaniards. 

About  this  time  the  lord  of  Jalapa,  in  whose  keeping  the 
sons  of  Cosijopii  had  been  placed,  refused  to  recognize  the 
king's  authority.  The  latter  to  avoid  civil  war  took  the 
matter  up  with  Alvarado,  giving  him  ten  measures  of  gold 
upon  condition  that  he  capture  the  offender  and  bring  him 
before  him  for  punishment.  Alvarado,  upon  whom  the  sight 
of  gold  had  a  magical  effect,  told  Cosijopii  to  have  no  fear  as 
he  would  see  that  the  matter  was  properly  attended  to. 

In  referring  to  this  incident  the  enemies  of  Alvarado 
state  that  the  king  led  him  into  a  room  filled  with  great  store 
of  gold,  sliver,  jewels,  precious  stones,  and  elegant  feather- 
work,  telling  him  that  he  might  choose  whatever  he  liked, 
and  that  the  captain  took  ten  measures  of  the  best.  Seeing 
the  good  effect  produced  by  the  gold  Cosijopii  promised  him 
more  when  the  lord  of  Jalapa  was  delivered. 


280  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Alvarado  was  never  long  in  hitting  upon  an  excuse  to 
justify  the  greatest  villainy;  nor  was  he  in  this  instance.  He 
suddenly  bethought  himself  that  his  intended  victim  had  failed 
to  go  through  the  form  of  rendering  obeisance  to  him  and 
thereupon,  notwithstanding  that  he  had  committed  no  act 
of  hostility,  ordered  him  to  attend  upon  him  with  the  chief 
men  of  Jalapa  that  he  might  be  reprimanded  for  his  conduct. 

Fearing  perfidy  the  lord  did  not  respond  to  the  summons. 
Whereupon  to  enforce  obedience  Alvarado  set  out  from  Te- 
huantepec  for  Jalapa  with  his  Spaniards  and  24,000  warriors 
whom  Cosijopii  had  placed  subject  to  his  orders. 

He  reached  Jalapa  and,  greedy  for  plunder,  ordered  the 
recalcitrant  lord  and  his  brother  and  sister  to  be  brought 
before  him.  Upon  their  answering  the  summons  he  received 
them  with  austerity  and  after  his  manner  in  such  cases  con- 
fronted them  with  trumped  up  charges.  Their  protestations 
of  innocence  were  unheeded  by  Alvarado  who  finally  said: 
"Make  me  a  substantial  present  of  gold  to  show  the  goodness 
of  your  hearts,  and  I  will  dismiss  you  without  punishment." 

They  denied  possessing  any  treasure  and  he  then  ordered 
that  the  two  men  be  put  to  the  torture;  the  while  remaining 
himself  with  the  lady  for  objects  purely  personal.  The  accused 
in  the  end  escaped  torture  by  complying  with  their  tormen- 
tor's request  for  gold. 

Neither  caring  to  set  the  men  at  liberty  nor  to  take  them 
with  him  to  Tehuantepec,  he  banished  them  to  Mexico,  placing 
them  in  charge  of  Ramon  Lopez  and  three  other  Spaniards. 
They  started  for  Mexico  with  their  prisoners  but  before 
reaching  Tequisistlan  were  attacked  by  a  party  of  Chontals 
who  freed  the  prisoners  and  slew  one  of  the  Spaniards.  The 
prisoners  fled  for  Jalapa,  which  had  in  the  meantime  been 


THE  COMING  OF  ALVARADO  281 

evacuated  by  Alvarado,  while  the  three  remaining  Spaniards 
made  their  way  back  to  Tehuantepec. 

The  people  of  Jalapa,  enraged  at  the  conduct  of  this 
scoundrel  who  was  pleased  to  style  himself  the  friend  of  the 
Zapotecs,  now  rose  in  revolt.  As  soon  as  Alvarado  learned 
of  this  he  returned  against  Jalapa  which  was  taken  after 
some  fighting.  Master  of  the  place,  he  ordered  a  general 
massacre  and  consigned  the  city  to  the  flames.  Many  were 
slain,  his  enemies  placing  the  number  at  twenty  thousand 
souls;  but  this  figure  seems  incredible. 

After  these  events  Alvarado  departed  with  his  cavalry 
for  Tequisistlan  to  avenge  the  death  of  his  countryman.  He 
found  the  Chontal  Indians  strongly  fortified,  the  body  of 
their  troops  being  hidden  in  a  thicket  on  the  outskirts  of 
which  a  detachment  deployed  for  the  purpose  of  attracting 
the  Spaniards  towards  the  ambuscade  and  finishing  with  them. 

Alvarado  drew  his  forces  up  in  line  of  battle.  He  recon- 
noitered  the  position  and  fearing  a  surprise  resolved  to  await 
the  arrival  of  his  infantry  before  beginning  the  attack.  But 
he  was  not  permitted  to  wait,  for  the  Indians  of  the  detach- 
ment understanding  well  the  impression  which  their  strong 
position  had  made  upon  the  Spanish  leader  waited  not,  but 
fell  upon  the  cavalry.  Early  in  the  engagement  Alvarado  was 
struck  in  the  forehead  by  an  arrow  which  endangered  his 
life,  and  presently  the  Spaniards  began  to  give  way,  over- 
powered by  superior  numbers.  But  at  this  critical  moment 
the  infantry  arrived  and  surrounded  the  Chontals. 

It  seemed  now  but  a  matter  of  minutes  when  the  brave 
little  band  of  Chontals  would  be  wiped  out,  when  suddenly 
the  main  body  of  their  countrymen,  who  until  then  had  re- 
mained hidden  in  the  woods,  emerged  and  with  wild  shouts  of 


282  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

rage  i'ell  upon  the  enemy.  A  state  of  indescribable  confusion 
ensued  while  Chontal  and  Spaniard  met  in  hand  to  hand  en- 
gagement. More  than  once  the  Chontals  beat  back  the  enemy ; 
but  in  the  end  the  superior  arms  and  discipline  of  the  Cas- 
tilians  prevailed.  The  Chontal  leader  was  made  prisoner  and 
his  warriors  were  dispersed,  leaving  the  field  covered  with 
the  slain. 

Alvarado  was  not  the  only  Spaniard  to  water  the  ground 
with  his  blood.  Cristobal  Flores,  Garcia  de  Pilar,  Gonzalo  de 
Ojeda,  and  others  came  forth  wounded  from  the  battle  which, 
although  it  went  against  the  Chontals,  did  their  bravery 
credit.  After  this  last  attempt  the  Chontals  remained  sub- 
ject to  the  Spanish  authority. 

Alvarado  returned  to  Tehuantepec  with  his  prisoners. 
In  passing  Jalapa  he  pardoned  the  lord  of  that  place,  an  act 
approved  by  Cosijopii  who  had  himself  already  taken  the  same 
action. 

The  brave  Chontal  leader  paid  with  his  life  for  the  Span- 
ish blood  which  he  had  caused  to  be  shed  in  defense  of  his 
country.  The  philosophic  Alvarado  naturally  made  no  dis- 
tinction between  traitor,  spy,  and  the  enemy  taken  in  open 
combat. 


Now  our  Alvarado  prided  himself  greatly  upon  being  a 
good  Christian,  and  his  conduct  as  I  have  described  it,  O  son 
of  Abdullah,  will  serve  to  show  thee,  I  trust,  wherein  the  good 
Christian  excels  the  miserable  heathen.  Well  then,  this  good 
Christian  and  Father  Olmedo,  valuing  at  their  true  worth 
the  talents  and  influence  of  Cosijopii,  and  realizing  the  ad- 
vantage to  be  gained  by  converting  him  to  the  Christian  faith, 
set  about  the  accomplishment  of  that  worthy  object.  Why 
the  captain  did  not  resort  to  his  usual  argument,  the  sword, 


THE  COMING  OF  ALVARADO  283 

is  not  entirely  plain  to  me,  but  as  a  matter  of  fact  he  did  not. 
His  conscience  seems  to  have  been  rather  tender  on  this  point. 
At  any  rate  they  depended  on  moral  suasion  alone.  To  their 
surprise  the  king  readily  embraced  the  faith. 

And  thus  it  came  to  pass  that  on  the  seventeenth  day 
after  the  entrance  of  the  Spaniards  into  Tehuantepec,  on  June 
24,  1522,  the  baptism  of  Cosijopii  was  celebrated  amidst  salvos 
of  artillery  and  the  blare  of  trumpets.  The  diadem  which 
until  then  had  encircled  his  brows  was  discarded  and  in  its 
place  he  wore  a  broad-brimmed  hat  turned  up  on  the  left  side 
and  adorned  with  a  gallant  blue  plume. 

All  this  seemed  very  proper  to  the  Spaniards  but  pro- 
duced a  very  different  effect  upon  his  people,  whose  hearts 
were  filled  with  rage  at  beholding  their  king  vested  in  Euro- 
pean dress  and  on  hearing  him  accosted  by  his  new  name  of 
Don  Juan  Cortez  Cosijopii  de  Moctezuma.  The  countenances 
of  the  multitude  darkened  and  the  ominous  words  "traitor" 
and  "coward"  passed  from  mouth  to  mouth.  Matters  soon 
proceeded  from  bad  to  worse,  the  more  violent  plotting  several 
times  both  to  compass  his  destruction  and  to  attack  the 
Spaniards. 

In  his  extremity  the  king  went  to  Alarii  and  told  him  all. 
The  ancient  minister,  who  had  been  following  developments 
with  a  watchful  eye,  was  ready  with  a  plan.  Cosijopii  ap- 
proved and  they  immediately  set  about  putting  it  into  execu- 
tion. Alarii  left  at  once  for  Monapoxtiac. 

When  night  fell  the  king  and  his  beautiful  wife  Zetobaa, 
taking  the  San  Bias  road,  followed  after.  Profound  peace 
brooded  over  the  summer  plains  and  as  the  royal  travelers 
pursued  their  way  they  found  it  hard  to  realize  that  the  end 
of  their  rule  was  nigh  at  hand.  As  they  reached  the  edge  of 
the  great  lagoon  a  robust  boatman  emerged  from  the  gloom. 


284  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Another  moment  and  they  were  seated  in  his  canoe.  The  pallid 
moon  shone  on  the  distant  horizon,  the  dark  waters  of  the 
lake  were  reflected  in  changing  colors  on  the  sides  of  the 
silent  craft,  and  away  in  the  distance  the  Heart  of  the  King- 
dom reared  her  lofty  head;  an  enormous  rock  illumined  on 
one  side  by  the  last  rays  of  the  setting  moon,  holy  Monapox- 
tiac,  where  dwelt  the  god  of  their  hopes. 

The  canoe  bearing  the  royal  pair  reached  the  hallowed 
shore.  They  made  their  way  up  the  steep  ascent  to  the  En- 
chanted Cave.  In  those  silent  precincts,  in  that  cavern  fra- 
grant with  copal  recently  burned  in  honor  of  the  god  whose 
shrine  it  was,  Alarii  at  the  head  of  the  priests  and  ancients 
awaited  his  master.  He  entered  and  all  saluted  him  with 
reverence. 

"I  have  come  to  you,"  the  king  began,  seating  himself 
upon  the  throne  which  awaited  him,  "to  cast  in  your  faces 
your  injustice  and  ill-considered  zeal  for  my  person.  True  it 
is  that  I  have  submitted  to  baptism,  but  false  are  the  motives 
which  have  been  imputed  to  me.  You,  my  people,  should 
know  me  better.  I  have  but  submitted  that  I  might  the  better 
conceal  my  real  intentions  from  the  eyes  of  our  oppressors. 
Later,  when  circumstances  permit,  I  will  sound  the  alarm, 
call  you  to  arms,  and  we  will  revindicate  our  honor,  stained 
by  the  enemies  of  our  country  and  our  gods/' 

The  congregation  bowed  their  heads  in  token  of  respect 
and  adhesion  and  the  king  departed,  leaving  the  leaders  of 
the  people  satisfied. 

While  Cosijopii  busied  himself  with  rearranging  the  ad- 
ministration of  the  kingdom  in  conformity  with  the  new  order 
of  things,  the  conqueror  spent  his  time  in  military  expedi- 
tions, sometimes  against  the  Chontals,  passing  by  way  of 


THE  COMING  OF  ALVARADO  285 

Jalapa,  and  at  other  times  against  the  towns  of  the  Huaves; 
with  the  object  of  reducing  all  to  the  Spanish  allegiance  and 
filling  his  coffers  with  booty. 

As  a  reward  for  his  services  and  to  prevent  further  trou- 
ble between  Cosijopii  and  the  lord  of  Jalapa,  Cortez  gave 
Alavarado  the  following  encomienda,  which  I  give  verbatim 
as  throwing  much  light  upon  the  manner  in  which  the  Cas- 
tilian  dealt  with  Indians  in  those  days.  The  document  runs 
as  follows: 

"Cedula  depositing  in  trust  with  Pedro  de  Alvarado 
the  towns  of  Tututepec  and  Jalapa  and  other  towns — By 
these  presents  are  entrusted  to  you,  Pedro  de  Alvarado,  a 
citizen  of  Villa  de  Segura  de  la  Frontera,  the  lords  and 
inhabitants  of  the  town  of  Tututepec,  with  Quisquitale, 
Apichagua,  Chacaltepeque,  Centepeque,  Teteltongo,  and 
Chila,  which  are  subject  to  it,  and  the  lord  and  natives  of 
Jalapa,  that  they  may  serve  and  aid  you  on  your  estates, 
agreeable  to  the  ordinances  which  have  been  and  may  be 
made  in  this  matter  and  with  your  oversight  of  the  things 
which  concern  our  holy  Catholic  faith,  exercising  in  that 
behalf  the  care  and  vigilance  possible  and  necessary. 
Dated,  August  24,  A.  D.  1522.  Hernando  Cortez— By 
order  of  the  great  Captain,  my  lord — Alonzo  de  Vil- 
lanueva." 

Thus  authorized,  Alvarado  designated  a  lieutenant  to 
govern  the  town  of  Jalapa  in  his  name  and  apportioned  cer- 
tain towns  amongst  his  principal  friends,  giving  others  allot- 
ments of  land.  Visiting  Tututepec  at  a  later  date  he  chose 
for  himself  a  beautiful  property  at  Jamiltepec,  now  known  as 
the  Plain  of  the  Widow. 

His  presence  on  the  Isthmus  being  no  longer  required, 
toward  the  end  of  September  he  started  for  Mexico  accom- 
panied by  Father  Olmedo  and  the  prince  of  Tututepec. 

Alvarado  did  not  retain  the  encomienda  for  long,  for 
Cortez,  learning  that  it  was  of  great  value,  took  it  from  him. 
Tututepec  alone  had  been  yielding  him  fifty  pesos  daily. 


9  CHAPTER  XXI. 

THE  PASSING  OF  ZAACHILA. 

IN  October  of  the  year  1522  Queen  Coyolica,  mourning  the 
death  of  her  daughter  the  Princess  Donaji,  whom  she 
loved  greatly,  sickened  and  died  after  an  illness  of  seven 
days  in  her  palace  at  Zaachila  at  the  age  of  fifty-four  years. 

This  sad  event  caused  profound  sorrow  at  the  court.  The 
aged  Cosijoeza  wept  like  a  child  over  the  loss  of  his  faithful 
companion.  In  his  anguish  he  cried  out  before  his  friends: 
"Stricken  down  by  fate  she  has  gone  to  the  other  world,  leav- 
ing us  overwhelmed  with  sorrow  and  crushed  beneath  the  heel 
of  the  oppressor." 

Her  remains  were  laid  away  with  all  the  pomp  of  the  Za- 
potec  ceremonial  in  the  royal  tomb  called  Zeetobaa.  Coyolica 
had  been  a  model  of  virtue  and  fidelity,  her  many  acts  of  kind- 
ness had  endeared  her  to  the  people  of  her  adopted  country, 
and  it  was  many  years  before  they  ceased  to  mourn  the  loss 
of  the  good  queen. 

While  these  events  were  transpiring  in  Didjazaa*  trouble 
was  brewing  in  the  Tututepec  colony  of  Segura  de  la  Frontera. 
The  colony  did  not  prosper,  partly  because  the  natives  of  the 
place  remained  unreconciled  to  the  new  order  of  things  and 
partly  because  the  torrid  climate  sapped  the  vitality  of  the 
Spaniards  and  the  Indians  who  had  accompanied  them  from 
the  high  plateau.  Finally  the  colonists  met  in  council  and, 

*Didjazaa:  The  country  of  the  Zapotecs. 

286 


THE  PASSING  OF  ZAACHILA  287 

all  being  in  favor  of  abandoning  the  place,  decided  to  return 
to  Huaxyacac  where  living  conditions  were  more  suitable. 

The  removal  was  effected  in  November,  the  colony  re- 
turning under  the  leadership  of  its  officers,  Gutierrez  de  Ba- 
dajoz  and  Juan  Nunez  Cedeno,  to  Tepeaca,  a  place  adjacent 
to  Huaxyacac,  where  they  set  about  re-establishing  the  colony 
with  enthusiasm.  The  climate  of  this  locality  was  ideal  and 
they  were  resolved  to  settle  there  and  die  in  the  place. 

As  soon  as  Cortez  was  advised  of  the  matter  he  ordered 
Diego  de  Ocampo  to  proceed  as  examining  magistrate  against 
the  authors  of  this  breach  of  authority.  The  judge  made  a 
thorough  investigation  and  in  the  end  sentenced  them  all  to 
death;  a  penalty  stayed  only  through  the  influence  of  Father 
Olmedo,  who  prevailed  upon  him  to  commute  the  sentence 
to  banishment. 

Notwithstanding  this  the  colony  remained  as  founded, 
thanks  to  the  accession  of  power  of  Gonzalo  de  Salazar  and 
Pedro  Almindez  Chirinos  in  1524.  Before  Cortez  had  been 
long  absent  from  Mexico  these  men  openly  declared  against 
him,  ordering  the  colony  repeopled  and  taking  from  him  the 
principal  Zapotec  towns,  which  they  declared  patrimony  of 
the  Crown.  In  this  they  did  well,  for  Cortez  had  appropriated 
to  his  own  private  use  practically  all  the  lands  now  embraced 
within  the  State  of  Oaxaca. 

Although  Cortez  upon  his  return  to  Mexico  set  diligently 
about  the  vindication  of  his  rights  he  was  unable  to  get  the 
colony  included  in  the  marquisate  which  he  obtained  in  July, 
1528.  The  vicissitudes  through  which  Huaxyacac  passed  were 
brought  to  an  end  in  the  same  year  by  an  event  of  the  greatest 
importance  to  the  political  life  of  the  place.  The  emperor 
Charles  V  sent  to  the  Audiencia  of  New  Spain  a  cedula  of 
date  September  14,  1526,  creating  the  place  a  royal  villa.  It 


288  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

is  thought  that  he  left  the  naming  of  the  new  villa  to  the 
Audiencia  and  that  through  the  influence  of  one  of  the  mem- 
bers it  was  named  Antequera. 

The  Audiencia  sent  the  cedula  to  the  alcalde,  Don  Juan 
Pelaez  de  Berrio,  and  the  latter  caused  it  to  be  published  with 
all  pomp  on  July  24,  1529.  Later,  on  April  25,  1532,  the  em- 
peror  by  royal  cedula  signed  at  Medina  del  Campo  raised  the 
place  to  the  rank  of  city. 

The  withdrawal  of  the  colony  from  Tututepec  naturally 
weakened  the  Spanish  power  greatly  in  that  district,  but  not- 
withstanding that  the  conquerors  were  now  few  in  number 
they  continued  to  oppress  the  Indians.  This  led  to  the  Mixtec 
revolt  of  1523.  Their  first  and  only  act  of  vengeance  is  re- 
lated as  follows :  Learning  that  a  party  of  some  forty  Span- 
iards was  traveling  by  way  of  the  coast  they  started  in  pur- 
suit of  them  and,  falling  suddenly  upon  them,  made  them  pris- 
oners. After  securely  binding  them  they  conducted  them  to 
a  court  encircled  by  an  embattled  wall  of  considerable  height. 
More  than  two  thousand  Indians  surrounded  the  enclosure 
and  from  a  safe  distance  hurled  in  firebrands  upon  the  Span- 
iards. Their  unfortunate  captives  in  attempting  to  escape  were 
caught  on  the  merlons  of  the  battlements,  upon  which  they 
left  the  bloody  imprints  of  their  hands  as  a  testimony  to  their 
cruel  fate.  In  the  end  they  realized  the  impossibility  of  re- 
gaining their  freedom  and  resigning  themselves  to  their  fate 
fell  upon  their  knees,  raised  their  eyes  to  heaven,  and  encour- 
aging one-another  laid  down  their  lives  with  Christian 
fortitude. 

When  Cortez  learned  of  the  occurrence  he  directed  Alva- 
rado  to  proceed  for  the  second  time  against  Tututepec.  The 
latter  entered  upon  a  vigorous  campaign  against  the  rebellious 


THE  PASSING  OF  ZAACHILA  289 

city  in  the  course  of  which  great  numbers  of  the  Indians  and 
not 'a  few  Spaniards  were  slain.  Realizing  that  defeat  was 
certain  the  Indians  finally  surrendered  at  discretion.  After 
this  the  land  remained  pacified  and  the  government  of  Tutu- 
tepee  was  entrusted  to  the  son  of  King  Casandoo,  whom  Alva- 
rado  had  taken  with  him  to  Mexico,  Cortez  wisely  restoring 
him  upon  promise  of  loyalty. 

The  Mixtecs  of  the  south  once  more  pacified,  Alvarado 
returned  to  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca  where  he  was  well  received 
by  the  Zapotec  lords  and  especially  by  King  Cosijoeza,  who 
lodged  him  in  his  palace  and  conferred  rich  gifts  upon  him. 

Profiting  by  the  favorable  opportunity    thus    afforded 
Father  Olmedo  set  about  the  conversion  of  the  king  and  his 
nobles.    Cosijoeza  to  please  him,  and  trusting  in  the  future, 
outwardly  embraced  the  Christian  faith.    According  1 
tradition  he  was  baptized  as  Don  Carlos  Cosijoeza,  many  , 
the  nobles  and  people  following  his  example. 

After  this  event  Alvarado  returned  to  Mexico,  well  satis- 
fied that  in  assisting  in  securing  the  outward  conversion  of 
Cosijoeza  he  had  washed  away  his  own  many  sins. 

The  fatal  year  1529  witnessed  the  last  of  the  glory  of 
Zaachila.  It  was  but  eight  years  since  the  first  appearance 
of  the  Castilians  in  the  Valley  of  Oaxaca,  but  what  a  change 
those  years  had  witnessed.  The  Spaniard,  we  are  told,  filled 
the  land  with  rapine,  robbery,  and  extermination.  The  native 
lords  were  powerless.  Their  power  and  glory  were  submerged 
by  the  waves  of  conquest  and  they  could  but  wait  f utilely  for 
the  day  that  should  free  the  land  from  their  oppressors. 

Prince  Naatipa,  the  heir  apparent,  married,  taking  as 
his  consort  the  beautiful  Guielachi,  daughter  of  Baaloo,  lord 


290  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

of  Tlacochahuaya.  That  he  might  add  brilliancy  to  his  wed- 
ding the  prince  invited  Zapotecs  and  Spaniards  alike.  An  im- 
mense crowd  gathered  at  the  house  of  Baaloo  and  the  enter- 
tainment was  magnificent.  There  was  joy  and  good  feeling 
without  limit,  and  all  rejoiced. 

But  presently  a  commotion  arose  among  the  guests ;  they 
seized  their  arms,  they  fought,  and  many  Indians  and  some 
Spaniards  were  slain,  among  the  first  being  the  young  prince, 
the  hope  of  his  race,  who  on  the  third  day  after  his  marriage 
was  buried  with  great  pomp  by  those  who  had  been  invited  to 
his  wedding  feast. 

Thus  runs  the  current  tradition  but  the  actual  facts  are 
shrouded  in  mystery.  Burgoa,  the  historian  of  Oaxaca,  af- 
firms that  the  prince  died  of  his  extreme  lasciviousness.  Car- 
riedo  follows  him  in  this  particular.  But  I  adhere  to  Gracida's 
belief  that  he  was  purposely  killed  by  the  Spaniards,  who  were 
determined  to  remove  the  royal  line  of  Zaachila  from  their 
path,  cost  what  it  might,  that  their  dominion  might  be  made 
secure;  for  the  kings  of  Zaachila  were  the  only  ones  who 
might  have  made  war  with  any  prospect  of  driving  the  in- 
vaders from  Mexico. 

This  sad  event  deeply  affected  Cosijoeza  and  the  Zapotec 
nation,  who  were  dumfounded  at  losing  their  future  king  in 
a  manner  so  tragic. 

And  now  the  end  of  Didjazaa  was  near.  Cosijoeza,  with- 
out the  ascendancy  of  former  times,  shorn  of  the  powers  which 
he  had  inherited  from  his  predecessors,  old  and  full  of  sorrow 
because  one  by  one  he  had  seen  the  members  of  his  family 
pass  away,  was  stricken  down  at  his  palace  in  the  year  1529 
at  the  age  of  seventy-two  years. 

His  last  words  were:  "My  subjects*  faith  in  Heaven  will 
resign  them  to  bear  the  orphanage  in  which  I  leave  them,  and 
me  to  the  peace  of  the  future  life." 


THE  PASSING  OF  ZAACHILA  291 

His  death  was  bewailed  by  all  the  Zapotecs,  who  saw  the 
Zaachilan  monarchy  extinguished  with  the  passing  of  this 
famous  king,  the  honor  of  his  race  and  the  bulwark  of  its 
liberties.  On  the  third  day  his  funeral  took  place  in  conform- 
ity with  the  national  rites.  Very  early  in  the  morning  the 
procession  set  forth  for  Mitla.  A  company  of  the  royal  guards 
led  the  way  with  a  military  band  playing  solemn  strains  in 
token  of  mourning.  A  multitude  of  functionaries  and  civil 
and  judicial  officials  followed  in  the  order  of  their  rank ;  and 
behind  these  a  choir  of  singers,  chanting  poetical  lamentations 
and  recounting  the  achievements  and  wonderful  exploits  of 
the  defunct  monarch.  After  this  came  another  band  of  music, 
and  then  the  priests  in  their  orders.  Next  came  the  nobility, 
taking  precedence  according  to  rank  and  bearing  in  their 
midst  the  body  of  the  deceased  king  in  a  magnificent  sedan 
chair. 

The  dead  potentate,  sitting  bolt  upright,  was  dressed  in 
his  richest  robes  and  adorned  with  precious  jewels,  necklaces 
of  gold,  and  massy  bracelets.  On  his  arm  he  bore  the  shield 
and  in  his  right  hand  the  spear  which  he  had  carried  in  battle. 

The  procession  closed  with  more  members  of  the  royal 
household  and  another  detachment  of  the  bodyguard,  followed 
by  people  from  the  city  of  all  classes  and  conditions. 

At  certain  intervals  along  the  way  funeral  fanes  had  been 
erected,  at  which  the  priests,  halting  the  procession,  celebrated 
the  Office  of  the  Dead. 

They  reached  Liobaa*  and  the  highpriest,  followed  by 
the  other  religious,  received  the  body  and,  conducting  it  with 
ceremonies  and  chants,  placed  it  in  the  vault  prepared  for  the 
purpose  and  left  him  buried  in  the  pantheon  of  his  forefathers. 

*The  Zapotec  name  for  Mitla.  The  word  signifies,  according  to  Bur- 
goa,  "Place  of  Rest."  It  is  believed  that  the  correct  rendering  was  Yoo- 
paa,  "House  of  Burial." 


292  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Since  by  the  death  of  Cosijoeza  the  throne  of  Zaachila 
was  left  without  a  legitimate  claimant,  for  they  could  not 
elevate  Cosijopii  by  reason  of  his  having  accepted  the  throne 
of  Tehuantepec,  the  principal  lords  of  the  realm  gathered  in 
council  to  consider  what  might  best  suit  their  interests.  A 
long  and  hot  discussion  followed.  Some  proposed  the  brother 
of  Cosijoeza,  while  others  contended  that  it  was  useless  to  elect 
a  king  since  they  already  had  a  sovereign  who  neither  regarded 
the  ancient  lords  of  the  soil  nor  permitted  them  to  exercise 
authority,  and  that  thus  it  would  be  better  to  remain  without 
a  king  who  would  be  such  in  name  only. 

After  wavering  for  some  time  between  these  two  opinions 
they  finally  came  to  decision,  as  men  will  in  such  cases,  more 
to  experiment  in  a  strange  case  than  to  accept  either  plan  pro- 
pounded with  so  much  eloquence  by  the  orators  of  the  occasion. 

Recollecting  the  terms  of  friendship  upon  which  they  had 
always  lived  with  Oconana,  king  of  Tilantongo,  they  chose  as 
their  ruler  the  second  son  of  that  Mixtec  lord,  Don  Juan  de 
Aguilar,  who  accepted  the  throne  and  entered  upon  the  govern- 
ment of  Didjazaa  amid  general  satisfaction.  But  Spanish 
policy  viewed  all  exercise  of  real  authority  by  the  native  kings 
with  disfavor,  and  as  a  consequence  he  was  gradually  stripped 
of  his  powers.  In  disgust,  he  abdicated  the  royal  authority, 
which  passed  to  the  Zapotec  chieftain,  Don  Luis  de  Velasco, 
heir  in  the  direct  line  to  the  crown  of  Zaachila,  and  afterwards 
to  Don  Antonio,  as  governors  of  the  Indians ;  after  which  the 
office  was  suppressed  and  the  realm  became  an  integral  part 
of  the  Spanish  crown. 

After  that  the  people  of  Zaachila  wisely  refrained  from 
choosing  a  king.  It  is  related  that  in  1672  the  lineal  descend- 


THE  PASSING  OF  ZAACHILA 


293 


ant  of  Cosijoeza  in  the  fifth  degree  lived  in  a  state  of  abject 
poverty,  and  Burgoa  tells  us  that  out  of  pity  the  convent  was 
accustomed  to  pass  him  out  a  plate  of  food  to  keep  him  from 
starvation. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 
THE  FALL  OF  COSUOPII. 

FOLLOWING  the  course  agreed  upon  with  his  people 
Cosijopii  had,  from  the  very  beginning  of  the  preach- 
ing of  the  Gospel  at  Tehuantepec,  pretended  to  be  a 
most  devout  adherent  of  the    Catholic   faith   which  he  had 
ostensibly  embraced;  so  much  so,  in  fact,  that  he  actually 
bore  the  expense  of  constructing  the  church  and  convent  of 
Santo  Domingo  in  that  city. 

From  the  year  1544  until  the  dedication  of  the  church  in 
1550  the  fathers  Gregorio  Beteta  and  Bernardo  of  Albu- 
querque ceased  not  to  praise  the  generous  king  who  supplied 
their  every  want  from  his  abundant  resources  and  every- 
thing needed  for  the  erection  of  the  buildings.  Even  after  it 
was  finished  he  presented  the  church  with  many  articles  of 
value  for  its  ornamentation  and  proper  upkeep,  for  which 
Father  Bernardo  commended  him  publicly. 

But  notwithstanding  the  favors  which  he  had  showered 
upon  the  church,  its  ministers,  and  the  Spaniards  generally, 
he  was  doomed  to  fall  the  victim  of  the  one  or  the  other.  Let 
the  reader  read  the  history  of  his  fall  and  decide  which.  It 
matters  little. 

Now  Cosijopii  possessed  through  the  tribute  paid  him 
great  riches  which  he  scattered  with  the  utmost  liberality 
among  his  people,  and  from  this  in  great  measure  sprang 
his  popularity  and  power.  This  the  conquerors  perceived  and 
they  determined  to  take  the  kingdom  from  him  as  the  only 

294 


THE  FALL  OF  COSIJOPII  295 

means  whereby  the  flow  of  tribute  into  his  coffers  might  be 
stayed.    This  was  the  source  of  his  downfall. 

We  must  explain  this  matter  of  the  tribute  more  fully. 
Cortez  had  left  the  king  in  the  enjoyment  of  a  part  of  his 
wealth,  but  the  amount  was  barely  sufficient  to  maintain  his 
family  and  establishment,  even  in  a  manner  which  ill  com- 
ported with  his  rank.  Notwithstanding  this  the  viceroys  still 
further  reduced  his  income  to  such  an  extent  that  it  no  longer 
sufficed  to  meet  the  ordinary  expenditures.  In  fact,  in  1555 
the  Viceroy  Luis  de  Velasco  approved  a  decision  made  the 
year  before  by  the  Visitor  of  the  Marquis  of  the  Valley 
(Cotez),  reducing  Cosijopii's  annual  rents  to  one  hundred 
pesos. 

This  contemptible  action,  taken  in  utter  disregard  of  the 
feelings  of  the  friend  and  protector  of  the  Spaniards,  wounded 
Cosijopii  deeply,  but  he  resigned  himself  without  a  murmur, 
trusting  that  in  the  end  his  good  works  would  be  rewarded. 

Now  the  big-hearted  Zapotecs  could  illy  brook  this  treat- 
ment of  their  king.  They  were  no  longer  legally  obligated 
to  pay  tribute  to  him,  for  the  tribute  was  imposed  by  the 
conquerors ;  but  when  they  beheld  their  king  in  such  straight- 
ened circumstances  their  loyal  hearts  revolted,  and  rich  and 
poor  came  flocking  with  their  substance.  This  source  of  in- 
come, in  its  nature  precarious,  besides  wounding  the  natural 
pride  of  the  deposed  monarch  awakened  anew  the  suspicions 
of  the  conquerors,  who  determined  to  make  an  end  of  him. 

The  king's  poverty  compelled  him  finally  to  accept  the 
gifts  of  his  people  but,  well  aware  of  the  danger  involved, 
he  resorted  to  cunning,  managing  the  matter  with  such  cir- 
cumspection that  for  many  years  it  remained  a  secret  to  the 
Spaniards. 


296  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

The  constant  intercourse  of  Cosijopii  with  his  faithful 
people,  for  the  greater  part  still  idolatrous,  kept  alive  the  re- 
membrance of  his  past  glory  and  led  him  to  view  his  fallen 
state  with  secret  chagrin.  Such  bitterness  of  spirit  urged  him 
toward  that  act  of  apostasy  upon  which  an  unforseen  event 
determined  him. 

Mitla  having  been  occupied  by  the  Spaniards,  her  priests 
were  no  longer  able  to  exercise  their  functions  at  that  sanctu- 
ary, and  so  it  came  to  pass  that  they  removed  with  their  idols 
to  Tehuan tepee.  The  huijatoo,  that  is  to  say,  the  Great  Watch- 
tower,  the  copabitoo  or  Guardians  of  the  Gods,  and  the  subord- 
inate ministers  of  the  cult  presented  themselves  at  the  palace 
and  begged  asylum  of  the  king.  Cosijopii  was  caught  in  a 
dilemma.  While  on  the  one  hand  he  could  not  receive  the 
old  gods  into  his  house  without  proving  traitor  to  his  bap- 
tismal vows,  on  the  other  hand  his  noble  heart  rebelled  against 
the  thought  of  casting  out  the  old  priests,  once  held  in  so  great 
respect  but  now,  alas,  so  unfortunate. 

After  weighing  the  matter  for  some  time  he  finally  de- 
cided to  receive  them  and  directed  that  the  idols  be  housed  in 
a  little  frequented  hall  of  the  palace.  There,  at  dead  of  night, 
surrounded  by  a  number  of  the  faithful  who  entered  by 
stealth,  the  priests  continued  to  offer  the  customary  sacri- 
fices. Thus  did  Cosijopii  apostatize. 

It  seems  wellnigh  incredible,  but  these  idolatrous  prac- 
tices remained  a  secret  for  some  years ;  nor  would  they  have 
been  discovered  had  it  not  been  for  the  greed  of  a  certain 
Spaniard.  This  individual  had  observed  that  Cosijopii  fre- 
quently gave  largess  to  the  poor,  from  which  he  inferred  that 
the  king  possessed  secret  sources  of  revenue.  Now  the  king 
seldom  shared  his  riches  with  the  conquerors  and  the  Spaniard 
realized  that  he  himself  had  nothing  to  expect  from  his  bounty. 


THE  FALL  OF  COSIJOPII  297 

What  he  could  not  gain  through  the  benevolence  of  the  mon- 
arch he  determined  to  achieve  by  craft  and  deceit. 

Keeping  a  close  watch,  the  Spaniard  was  not  long  in 
ascertaining  that  many  Indians  stealthily  congregated  at  night 
at  the  house  of  Cosijopii.  Judging  that  the  time  had  arrived 
to  possess  himself  of  a  share  of  the  royal  treasure,  he  dressed 
himself  in  native  costume,  and  sneaking  along  the  darkest 
streets  made  his  way  toward  the  palace.  He  experienced  no 
difficulty  in  gaining  admission.  His  costume  and  perfect 
command  of  the  Zapotecan  tongue  proved  an  open  sesame, 
and  he  soon  found  himself  mingling  freely  with  the  humble 
worshipers  at  the  shrine  of  the  forbidden  gods. 

The  hopes  he  had  entertained  were  not  realized,  for  he 
was  unable  to  share  in  the  liberalities  of  the  king  who  was 
at  the  time  dispensing  gifts  at  some  distance;  but  he  wit- 
nessed the  homage  paid  the  ancient  gods. 

Possessed  of  an  important  secret,  the  Spaniard  thought 
that  if  he  could  but  guard  it  his  fortune  was  made ;  and  in  this 
he  was  right.  But  unfortunately  for  him,  and  still  more  so 
for  Cosijopii,  he  was  not  the  man  to  keep  the  secret ;  for  his 
silence,  being  based  upon  interest  and  not  upon  principle, 
could  not  endure.  And  thus  it  came  about  that  from  certain 
hints  which  he  let  drop  relative  to  the  discovery  which  he  had 
made,  the  vicar  of  the  place,  Friar  Bernardo  de  Santa  Maria, 
was  led  to  entertain  strong  suspicions  of  the  king's  infidelity. 

Actuated  by  more  honorable  motives  but  with  no  less 
determination  the  priest  set  about  unearthing  the  mysteries 
connected  with  the  king's  palace.  Since  it  would  have  been 
impossible  for  him  to  gain  admission  without  being  recognized, 
he  made  use  of  the  fiscal,  an  Indian  much  attached  to  him, 
whom  he  carefully  instructed  as  to  the  precautions  which  he 
must  take  to  avoid  recognition. 


298  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

The  fiscal,  totally  unconscious  of  the  fact  that  he  was 
about  to  play  the  part  of  traitor  to  his  king  and  executioner 
of  liberty  of  conscience,  acceded  to  the  friar's  request.  He 
went  from  the  priest's  house  by  night,  entered  the  palace  as 
one  of  the  initiates,  saw  what  took  place  in  the  secret  cham- 
ber, and  stealthily  and  swifty  departing  returned  to  the  priest 
and  told  what  he  had  seen. 

Having  secured  the  evidence  against  Cosijopii,  Father 
Bernardo  went  straightway  to  the  chief  justice  and  addressed 
him  in  this  wise:  "I  beseech  your  Honor's  powerful  assist- 
ance. The  Church  is  in  grave  danger,  for  I  have  just  dis- 
covered that  King  Cosijopii,  besides  that  he  continues  to  at- 
tend the  ancient  rites  in  the  Enchanted  Cave  on  Monapoxtiac, 
permits  the  meeting  of  Indians  in  his  palace  at  night  to  offer 
up  adoration  to  the  heathen  gods/' 

"It  is  well,"  the  justice  gravely  replied,  "keep  up  the 
good  work  of  unearthing  this  idolatry  and  you  will  earn  a 
crown  of  glory  in  the  world  to  come.  I  assure  you  my  con- 
stables will  not  lose  sight  of  the  matter.  Go  without  fear,  my 
father,  and  trust  in  my  zeal  and  efficiency  to  do  whatever  the 
service  of  God  and  our  king  requires."  And  the  lawyer  eyed 
the  ecclesiastic  narrowly  as  the  latter  took  his  departure. 

Friar  Bernardo  was  far  from  being  satisfied  with  the 
judge's  assurance.  It  was  evident  to  him  that  the  judge  had 
a  warm  spot  in  his  heart  for  Cosijopii  and  that  he  looked 
upon  infidelity  with  a  tolerant  eye.  So  the  priest  talked  the 
matter  over  with  the  alcalde  and  they  fixed  upon  a  day  to 
surprise  Cosijopii  in  the  very  act.  It  would  then  be  Impos- 
sible for  anyone  to  shield  him. 

A  few  days  later  the  alcalde  and  vicar  again  met  at  the 
convent  and  with  them  various  residents  of  Tehuantepec  who 
were  to  attend  as  witnesses,  and  with  an  escort  of  armed 


THE  FALL  OF  COSIJOPII  299 

men  set  out  silently  at  the  hour  of  midnight  for  the  palace. 
They  entered  the  great  court  without  being  seen.  Recon- 
noitering  the  halls  of  the  palace  by  the  light  issuing  from  cer- 
tain windows  they  discovered  the  place  of  worship.  Gazing 
through  the  windows  of  the  secret  chamber  they  beheld  what 
passed  within. 

An  idol  surmounted  a  high  altar  illumined  by  the  light  of 
many  torches.  At  its  feet  Cosijopii,  clad  in  a  robe  of  white 
and  wearing  a  golden  miter,  performed  the  functions  of 
highpriest.  Acolytes  (Vi janes)  received  from  the  worshipers 
the  turkeys  and  other  victims  and  carried  them  to  the  priests 
of  Mitla,  who  at  once  decapitated  them,  dying  their  hands  in 
their  blood.  Braziers  and  censers  also  burned,  filling  the 
hall  with  the  fragrant  odor  of  copal. 

Through  the  midst  of  the  astonished  natives  the  friar 
made  his  way,  advancing  with  grave  mien  the  full  length  of 
the  hall.  The  altar  reached,  he  and  his  companions  turned 
and  faced  the  assembly.  The  surprise  was  so  great  that  no 
one  thought  either  of  resistance  or  flight.  The  alcalde  con- 
ducted the  six  miserable  priests  to  jail  while  Friar  Bernardo 
spirited  the  king  away  to  his  convent. 

The  priest  gave  his  noble  prisoner  every  care  and  atten- 
tion, nor  could  he  have  done  less,  for,  besides  other  motives, 
he  was  moved  by  the  most  imperative  considerations  of  grati- 
tude. Cosijopii  had  employed  the  remnants  of  his  fortune 
in  constructing  the  magnificent  church  and  convent  of  Te- 
huantepec,  the  same  convent  in  which  he  now  found  himself 
a  prisoner.  Long  and  earnestly  the  two  discussed  the  mat- 
ter, the  friar  laboring  to  persuade  the  king  to  renounce  his 
idols  and  admit  his  errors,  and  the  king  contending  that  as 
he  had  paid  the  tribute  and  shared  his  wealth  with  the  Span- 
iards they  ought  to  leave  him  in  peace  with  the  gods  of  his 
choice. 


300  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

The  news  that  the  king  had  been  imprisoned  spread  like 
wildfire  and  caused  great  excitement  among  the  Zapotecs. 
From  distant  parts  of  the  kingdom  contingents  poured  into 
the  city  and  joining  the  inhabitants  of  the  place  threatened 
the  Spanish  power.  The  spirit  of  revolt  spread  rapidly. 

A  few  days  after  the  arrest  a  great  multitude  gathered 
before  the  convent  and  with  wild  cries  and  menaces  demanded 
the  king's  release.  The  Spanish  residents  were  stricken  with 
terror  and  the  monks  hurried  about  in  great  confusion,  not 
knowing  what  to  do.  Every  moment  the  situation  grew  more 
tense  and  all  were  persuaded  that  the  scene  would  terminate 
in  blood. 

In  this  extremity  Friar  Bernardo  approached  the  king 
and  begged  him  to  calm  the  people,  at  the  same  time  assur- 
ing him  that,  rather  than  set  him  at  liberty,  he  was  prepared 
to  die  at  his  side.  The  king  listened  patiently  to  the  plea  of 
him  who  had,  through  his  own  foolish  attempt  to  bind  the 
conscience  of  another,  provoked  the  tumult,  and  then  con- 
sented ;  but  before  passing  out  to  speak  to  the  people  he  said : 

"Priest,  I  have  been  to  my  people  a  true  father  and  they 
would  not  be  my  children  if,  seeing  me  yesterday  king  and 
today  a  miserable  prisoner,  they  were  not  prepared  to  die  in 
my  defense.  If  I,  once  feared  and  respected  by  my  neigh- 
bors, find  myself  treated  like  a  very  felon,  what  though  I  have 
yielded  my  throne  to  your  king,  what  have  my  people  to  hope 
from  you  and  yours?  But  let  us  go.  I  will  speak  to  my  people 
and  they  will  obey  me  and  return  to  their  homes." 

This  just  reproach  failed  to  touch  the  bigoted  heart  of 
Friar  Santa  Maria  who,  full  of  joy  at  the  success  of  his  plea, 
went  to  communicate  to  the  alcalde  and  monks  the  fact  that 
Cosijopii  had  consented  to  address  the  people.  They  sur- 
rounded the  king  and  led  him  forth  to  the  court  of  the  con- 


THE  FALL  OF  COSIJOPII  301 

vent  where  most  of  the  people  were  assembled.  The  latter, 
when  they  saw  him,  redoubled  their  menacing  cries,  at  the 
same  time  manifesting  their  sorrow  for  the  king  by  shrieks 
which  moved  even  the  hearts  of  his  captors. 

The  king  lifted  his  hand  and  a  hush  fell  upon  the  multi- 
tude. Repressing  the  anger  in  his  heart  he  addressed  them 
on  this  wise :  "I  well  know  the  fidelity,  gratitude,  and  love  of 
my  people  and  am  satisfied  there  is  no  one  among  you  who 
would  knowingly  aggravate  my  affliction.  I  have  long  since 
told  you  that  the  kingdoms  of  this  land  must  come  to  an  end 
with  the  arrival  of  certain  strangers,  to  whose  dominion  we 
would  be  subjected.  This  was  foretold  by  the  powers  above 
whom  it  is  not  lawful  to  resist.  Now  it  has  come  to  pass." 

"I  desire  to  ease  the  burden  of  my  misfortune,  which  has 
been  softened  through  the  goodness  of  these  priests.  You 
will  not  aid  by  your  clamors ;  rather,  if  you  commit  excesses, 
my  condition  will  be  made  worse  and  you  yourselves  will  re- 
ceive chastisements  which  will  add  to  my  sufferings.  Con- 
vinced that  you  love  me,  I  charge  you  to  submit  to  the  new 
order  of  things  and  keep  the  peace." 

As  soon  as  he  had  ceased  speaking  he  returned  to  the 
monks  and  entered  the  convent,  leaving  the  people  sad  but 
silent. 


The  passions  of  the  populace  calmed,  the  friars  set  about 
convincing  Cosijopii  of  his  errors.  The  bishop,  Bernardo 
de  Albuquerque,  an  old  friend  of  the  prisoner,  learned  of  the 
matter  and  without  loss  of  time  sent  two  religious  commis- 
saries to  Tehuantepec  with  the  advice  that  in  matters  of  this 
nature  it  was  ever  better  to  resort  to  charity  than  to  invoke 
justice. 


302  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

The  judges  arrived  and  visited  Cosijopii.  They  saluted 
him  in  a  friendly  manner  and  informed  him  of  the  commis- 
sion with  which  the  bishop  had  entrusted  them.  After  the 
reading  of  the  charge  the  king  said : 

"I  except  to  the  charge  and  interpose  a  challenge  to  your 
jurisdiction,  upon  the  ground  that  I  am  both  a  friend  of  the 
bishop  and  a  king  of  the  land.  The  trial  of  my  alleged  crime 
pertains  to  the  crown  of  Spain,  to  which  I  appeal  my  case." 

By  this  plea  he  freed  himself  from  the  ecclesiastical  juris- 
diction which  he  rightly  viewed  with  horror.  Had  he  been 
able  to  penetrate  the  future  he  might  have  decided  otherwise ; 
for  as  we  shall  see,  he  gained  nothing  by  the  appeal,  and  it  is 
quite  possible  that  the  church  would  have  strained  a  point  in 
his  favor.  But  this  was  withheld  from  his  sight. 

The  matter  now  passed  to  the  Royal  Audience.  The 
authorities  at  Tehuantepec  were  instructed  to  produce  Cosi- 
jopii to  answer  the  charge  and  they  so  informed  the  king. 
He  answered  that  he  was  prepared  to  see  the  case  through  to 
the  bitter  end. 

The  next  day  the  king  set  out  for  Mexico.  As  he  passed 
through  the  cities  and  villages  of  the  land  over  which  he  had 
ruled  for  so  many  years  the  populace  received  him  with  every 
mark  of  respect  and  love,  offering  their  persons  and  wealth  to 
save  him,  for  he  was  the  idol  of  their  hearts.  The  Spaniards 
also  greeted  him  with  respect,  not  merely  on  account  of  his 
noble  descent,  but  also  because  of  his  true  worth,  demonstrated 
on  many  an  occasion. 

He  arrived  at  Mexico  and  the  Royal  Audience  opened 
the  hearing.  For  more  than  a  year  he  was  kept  waiting  and 
finally,  in  1563,  Spanish  justice  pronounced  sentence,  brutally 
ignoring  the  many  services  which  this  magnanimous  king  had 


THE  FALL  OF  COSIJOPII  303 

rendered  the  Spaniard  and  condemning  him  to  the  loss  of  his 
towns,  his  office  of  Governor  of  the  Indians,  and  his  revenues. 

This  barbarous  treatment  wounded  Cosijopii  to  the  quick, 
but  he  repressed  his  resentment  and  set  out  for  his  former 
kingdom.  On  reaching  the  town  of  Nejapa  he  sustained  an 
attack  of  cerebral  congestion  from  which  death  speedily  en- 
sued, thus  terminating  his  days  in  a  tragic  manner  in  con- 
formity with  the  gloomy  prognostications  pronounced  at  his 
birth. 

While  in  Mexico  he  had  given  indications  of  having  re- 
pented of  his  apostasy  and  in  Nejapa  immediately  upon  fall- 
ing ill  called  for  a  priest  to  reconcile  him  to  the  Church,  but 
death  intervened  and  he  passed  away  without  having  received 
the  last  sacrament. 

His  companions,  the  six  priests  of  Mitla,  better  called 
the  six  Masters,  who  had  remained  in  the  power  of  the  eccles- 
iastical authorities,  were  tried  and  being  found  impenitent 
were  relaxed  to  the  secular  arm;  and  whether  the  venerable 
Cosijopii  died  of  congestion  of  the  brain  or  of  poison  adminis- 
tered by  his  guards,  certain  it  is  that  these  unfortunate 
priests,  to  the  eternal  disgrace  of  their  judges,  Were  executed 
in  solemn  auto  de  fe.  The  tribunal  of  the  Inquisition  brought 
them  forth  with  ropes  about  their  necks,  penitential  robes, 
black  veils,  and  scourges  in  their  hands,  and  they  were  con- 
signed to  the  flames. 

It  was  the  death-blow  to  the  religion  of  the  He-Who-Sees- 
It-All,  the  "It  is  finished"  of  the  doom  foretold  by  Pezelao 
the  oracle  of  Heaven,  regarding  Guixepecocha. 

Friar  Bernardo  reaped  little  joy  from  what  he  had  done. 
Doubts  struggled  within  him  and  gave  him  no  rest.  Should 
he  have  surprised  Cosijopii  in  his  palace  as  he  had  done,  or 


304  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

ought  he  to  have  proceeded  more  in  the  spirit  of  charity  and 
used  gentler  measures  for  his  conversion?  We  marvel  not 
that  these  thoughts  should  have  assailed  him;  the  wonder  is 
that  they  came  so  late. 

Continued  toil  for  the  welfare  of  the  Indians  served  in  a 
measure  to  divert  his  mind  from  these  harrassing  thoughts; 
but  even  in  the  midst  of  his  labors  the  bitter  recollection  of 
the  past  assailed  him.  Consumed  by  remorse,  his  health  gave 
way.  He  removed  to  Jalapa  (which  lies  above  Tehuantepec 
in  the  mountains),  hoping  that  a  change  of  climate  would 
mend  matters,  and  there  he  died. 

The  Indians  had  received  so  many  marks  of  kindness 
from  the  friar  that  they  forgot  their  resentment.  They 
greatly  lamented  his  departure  from  Tehuantepec  and  when 
he  died,  removing  his  remains  to  the  latter  place,  gave  them 
honorable  burial.  Verily  their  hearts  were  ripe  in  rnerey,  for 
had  it  been  thy  servant  he  had  not  found  it  in  his  heart  to 
forgive  the  priest,  nay,  not  even  in  the  last  day. 

But  a  little  remaineth  and  our  tale  is  told.  Cosijopii  had 
three  legitimate  children  born  to  him  of  Zeetobaa,  known 
after  the  conquest  as  Dona  Magdalena,  Don  Felipe,  and  Don 
Hernando,  and  one  natural  daughter  whose  name  has  not  been 
preserved. 

Dona  Magdalena,  legitimate  heir  to  the  throne  of  Te- 
huantepec, was  in  the  Zapotecan  tongue  called  Donaji.  She 
was  renowned  for  her  beauty,  discreet,  a  good  Christian  and, 
like  her  father,  generous  to  a  fault.  Her  people  loved  her  ex- 
ceedingly and  stood  in  such  awe  of  her  that  they  humbled 
themselves  before  her  and  dared  not  look  her  in  the  face  as 
she  passed  by.  Of  this  princess  history  records  two  incidents 
which  cast  no  uncertain  light  upon  her  character. 


THE  FALL  OF  COSIJOPII  305 

The  first  is  this:  On  the  occasion  of  the  good  Bishop 
Albuquerque  making  a  visit  to  Tehuantepec  in  1560,  this 
noble  lady  begged  audience  of  him.  The  prelate  having  set 
the  hour,  she  proceeded  to  the  parish  house  accompanied  by 
two  hundred  persons  of  rank,  dressed  in  all  the  splendor  and 
majesty  of  the  ancient  kings.  The  bishop  received  her  with 
great  benevolence.  She  saluted  him  with  respect  and  was 
about  to  kneel  to  kiss  the  pastoral  ring,  but  the  prelate  re- 
strained her,  saying:  "Madam,  I  cannot  permit  such  an  act 
from  one  of  your  rank."  To  which  she  responded:  "I  have 
come  to  you  that  I  might  thank  you  for  the  labors  which  you 
have  undertaken  on  behalf  of  my  people.  In  recognition  of 
such  services,  and  in  their  name,  I  now  present  you  with  these 
precious  tiger  skins,  this  beautiful  plumage,  and  these  jewels 
of  gold." 

The  bishop  accepted  the  tiger  skins  only,  bidding  the 
princess  divide  the  gold  amongst  the  poor.  This  generous  act 
completely  captivated  Dona  Magdalena,  who  took  leave  of  the 
bishop  and  returned  home  greatly  pleased. 

The  other  incident  is  this:  Silencing  the  voice  of  her 
just  resentment  after  the  imprisonment  of  her  father,  she 
gave  to  the  Dominican  friars  for  the  support  of  the  church 
the  Tehuantepec  salt  flats ;  her  orchard,  a  park  of  fruit  trees 
half  a  league  in  extent;  her  baths,  certain  springs  of  crystal 
pure  waters  which  formed  a  beautiful  pool  at  a  point  four 
leagues  from  the  city,  called  Laollaga;  and,  finally,  she  set 
aside  an  ample  endowment  for  the  support  of  the  convent. 

As  to  her  brothers  Felipe  and  Hernando,  who  succeeded 
their  father  in  the  government  of  Tehuantepec,  all  that  is 
known  of  them  is  that  with  neither  the  influence  nor  the 
talents  of  Cosijopii,  without  that  ascendency  which  the  remem- 
brance of  great  achievements  gives,  and  with  no  other  power 


306  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

than  the  petty  authority  conceded  by  the  Spaniards  to  the  gov- 
ernors of  the  Indians,  Felipe  and  Hernando  were  little  respect- 
ed or  obeyed  by  their  people.  Their  descendants  sank  into  ob- 
scurity. 

And  now,  0  son  of  Abdullah,  my  tale  is  told.  It  were 
useless  to  follow  the  fortunes  of  this  noble  people  through 
the  centuries  of  their  oppression.  Verily  Allah  ordereth  the 
lives  of  all  creatures  by  his  commandment,  according  to  the 
Writ  which  affirmeth  the  appointed  term.  But  no  man 
knoweth  what  lurketh  for  him  in  the  womb  of  the  future,  and 
what  the  Omniscient  hath  decreed  for  him.  Nor  knoweth 
any  man  what  the  Decree  sayeth  concerning  the  Sons  of  Zaa- 
chila.  Of  a  surety  it  is  not  written  in  the  Perspicuous  Book. 
Nevertheless  it  is  borne  in  upon  me  that  Allah  will  not  leave 
this  people  without  a  witness  and  that  the  day  of  the  restora- 
tion of  Zapoteca  is  at  hand.  Peace  be  with  thee,  my  brother, 
until  we  meet  again. 

THE  END. 


Word  List  and  Index 


WORD  LIST. 

Where  the  accent  is  not  indicated  a  Spanish  word  ending 
in  a  vowel  or  in  "n"  or  "s"  is  generally  accented  on  the  next 
to  the  last  syllable;  if  in  any  other  consonant,  the  accent  is  on 
the  last  syllable. 

Aguacate avocado,  alligator  pear 

Alcalde magistrate 

Almendra almond 

Arroyo  a  dry  watercourse 

Balsa raft 

Bano  bath 

Barrio _ ward 

Burro donkey 

Caballero  gentleman 

Calle  _  street 

Cantina bar  room,  saloon 

Capitan  ..; captain 

Carcel ~ jail 

Carrancista a  partisan  of  Carranza 

Cedula „ .._  rescript 

Centavo a  cent,  the  one-hundredth  part  of  a  peso 

Cerro mountain,  peak 

Gerveceria  brewery 

Chica small,  a  little  person  or  thing 

Conforme  agreeable,  willing 

Conquistador  conqueror 

Cuartel  barracks 

Dani  (Zap)  hill 

Estero estuary,  inlet,  coast  lagoon 

ExpJoradora troop  train 


310  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Fiesta  _ feast,  holiday 

Frijole  : bean 

Guanabana sour  sop 

Guayacan lignum  vitae 

Hacendado the  owner  of  an  estate 

Hormiga ant 

Ingenio v ... sugar  mill 

Istmo Isthmus 

Juchiteco  - _ a  citizen  of  Juchitan 

Loco crazy 

Machete _ corn  knife 

Mescal a  native  alcoholic  drink 

Mestizo  mixed-blood 

Milpa a  corn  patch 

Oracion  prayer 

Pan  bread 

Palenquero pole  man 

Patio house  court 

Paisana countrywoman,  fellow  citizen 

Perro _ dog 

Peso A  Mexican  dollar,  worth  at  par  50c  American  money 

Pitao  (Zap) : god 

Pitaya  (Zap)  the  fruit  of  species  of  cactus 

Plaza.... « — public  square 

Posada inn ;  also  a  Christmas  festivity 

Presidente  ...I mayor,  village  president 

Pueblo  _ town 

Rancheria stock  farm,  ranch 

Refajo wrapper 

Robles oak 

Salina :.  salt  marsh 

Sombrero  .  .  hat 


WORD  LIST  311 

Tehuana a  woman  of  Tehuantepec;  also 

used  loosely  to  designate  any  Zapotec  woman  of  the  plains 

Tehuano  a  man  of  Tehuantepec 

Tejocote  (Zap)  haw 

Tierra  caliente hot  land,  hot  zone 

Tierra  templada temperate  zone,  temperate  lands 

Venganza  vengeance,  revenge 

Viajero traveler,  traveling  salesman 

Zopelote  buzzard 


INDEX. 


Aboriginal  customs  136 

Acapulco,  port  of  5 

Adamik,  George  H., 81,  106,  110,  124 

Adobe  brick  52 

Agriculture,  172-187;  ajave  plants,  181;  beans,  174;  cacao,  179; 
castor  oil,  182;  chili  pepper,  174;  coffee,  178;  corn,  172;  indigo, 
180;  rice,  174,  183;  rubber,  180;  sugar  cane,  175-178;  tobacco, 

181;   vanilla 182 

Ahuitzotl,  Aztec  monarch,  200,  214;  declares  war  on  Zapotecs,  204; 

treachery  of,  220;  death  of 226 

Alarii,  minister  to  King  Cosijoeza,  199;  embassador  to  Tenochtitlan, 

213;  accompanies  Cosijopii  to  Tehuantepec  243 

Alban,  Monte, 234,  262,  265 

Alcantar  brothers,  Pepe  and  Poncho 35 

Alligator  pears  63 

Alligators 116 

Allison,  Peter,  of  San  Luis  Potosi  7 

Alvarado,  Pedro  de,  271,  285;  occupies  Tututepec,  272;  cupidity  of, 
273;  troops  conspire  against,  275;  arrives  at  Tehuantepec,  277; 
destruction  of  Jalapa  by,  281;  crushes  the  Chontals,  281;  second 

campaign  against  Tututepec 288 

Alvarez,  Jesus 184 

Americans,  in  southern  Mexico,  159-161;  number  (1919)  163 

Animals,  wild,  , 110-118 

Apiaries   188 

Archeological  remains 50 

Architecture,  domestic,  51-53;  homes  of  the  poor 53 

Ariaga  (Jalisco)  146 

Arista,  port  of  Tonala 146,  147,  151 

Armadillo   :. Ill 

Arms  of  Oaxaca 270 

Asphaltum   190 

Atravesado  Mountain  168 

Automobiles,  none  in  Salina  Cruz,  23;  roads  unsuited  to, 151 

Avocado  (alligator  pear)   63,  98,   108 

Aztata,  town  of, 276 

Aztecs,  region  inhabited  by,  137;  invest  Quiengola,  205;  make  peace 

with  Zapotecs, 208 


Balsa  wood 97,  149 

Balsam  of  Peru  183 

Balsas,  rafts  used  on  mountain  streams  149 

Bananas,  104,  160,  185;  dwarf  species,  104;  Coatzacoalcos  Valley 

especially  adapted  to,  ...  185 

Bandits,  27-44;  elements  from  which  recruited,  28;  insecurity  of 

country,  29;  method  of  attack,  29,32;  politeness  of,  36,  43;  the 

313 


314  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

"venganza,"  41;  summary  execution  of,  21,  144;  blackmail 
levied  by,  71,  162;  Pppenoe's  experiences  with,  108;  attacks  on 
trains,  140,  141;  strip  clothing  from  victims,  148;  favored  by 

physical  conditions  163 

Bamboo,  not  native  to  Pacific  plains  63 

Banks,  absence  of  167 

Barbacues   78-80 

Barker,  Wilbur  62 

Basketry 166 

Bathing,  17,  18,  133;  public  baths,  102;  shower  baths  at  hotels,  156; 

"banos  dobles,"  133;  at  Laollaga,  210;  Pool  of  the  Marchioness    305 

Bats,  vampire  112 

Beans 109,  155,  174 

Bees  33,   188 

Beeswax   59,   188 

Bernardo  de  Albuquerque,  early  bishop 294,  301,  305 

Bernardo  de  Santa  Maria,  early  priest  at  Tehuantepec 297-304 

Beverages,  61,   132,  179;  "refrescos,"  or  cool  drinks,  61,   106;   at 

table,  155;  intoxicating  liquors  132,  153 

Birds,  113-116;  Buzzards,  (See  also  names  of  birds)  58 

Blackmail  71,  162 

Boca  Barra  77 

Boj    (boxwood)   189 

Book  stores,  absence  of,  24 

Boots  and  shoes  170 

Boxwood  189 

Brazilwood  188 

Bread,  mode  of  making 157 

Brewery  at  San  Geronimo  166 

Brick  52 

Bridges,  absence  of 152 

Brigandage,  see  Bandits 

Bryant,  Capt.  George,  115 

Building  restrictions  - 82 

Bull  fights 83 

Burgoa,  historian  of  Oaxaca,  quoted,  290,  293 

Burros  (donkeys),  24;  employed  as  water-carriers 57 

Butter  170 

Buzzards,  (zopelotes)  58,  113 


Cable  service   152 

Cable  station,  Salina  Cruz 

Cacao  culture  „ 179 

Cacti,  25,  64;  fruit  of,  25;  buzzard  roosts 58 

Calle  Segunda  Morelos,  Tehuantepec 50 

Cambrick  Thomas,  the  corsair 247 

Campanario  Hill,  iron  ore  deposits  at  190 

Cannibalism,  reflections  on  possible  origin  of  206 

Canoes,  native - 149 

Cantinas  : 132,  153 

Casandoo,  lord  of  Tututepec 261,  265,  271,  274 

Cascalote   189 

Cassia   183 

Castor  oil  plant,  culture  of , 182 


INDEX  315 

Cathedral,  at  Tehuantepec    .                                                        ....49,  54,  294 

Cats,  wild, 110 

Cattle,  see  Stock  raising  

Caves,  Enchanted  Cave  on  Monapoxtiac,  24;  at  Tehuantepec,   55, 

65;  the  Large  Convento,  86;  bat  caves 113 

Cazadero  River  87 

Cedar,   Spanish,   188 

Celts  „ 50 

Cemeteries,  58;  decoration  of  graves 61 

Central  and  South  American  Telegraph  Co.,  152;  station  at  Salina 

Cruz  6 

Cerveceria  del  Istmo 80 

Cetecpatl,  lord  of  Coixtlahuaca 230,  233 

Chacalaca,  or  mountain  fowl  114 

Charcoal,  use  of,  for  fuel,  11,  23 

Cheese,  goat, — 23,  170 

Chiapas  plateau,  146,  147;  rye  grown  on, 183 

Chicapa  River  • 87 

Chicle,  obtained  from  the  sapodilla  tree  98 

Children   10,   15,   17,  131 

Chili  pepper  154,  174 

Chimalapa  mountains,  75;  pine  forests  of,  97;  vampires  numerous  in,  112 

Chimalapas   : 137 

Chinese 10,  51 

Chivela,  Pass  of,  75;  hot  springs  of,  165,  191;  iron  ore  deposits,  190; 

marble  . 191 

Chocolate  155,  179 

Chontals,  visited  by  Pecocha,  249;  region  occupied  by,  276;  crushed 

by  Alvarado  281,  284 

Churches,  16,  54,  55;  at  Salina  Cruz,  16;  used  as  barracks,  54,  135; 
Santo  Domingo,  Tehuantepec,  49,  54,  294;  San  Sebastion,  Te- 
huantepec, 50;  Laborio,  Tehuantepec,  54;  at  San  Bias,  59;  Santa 

Maria,  Tehuantepec,  66;  at  Iztaltepec,  125 

Cigars  181 

Cities,  public   conveniences   in,  23;   arrangement   of  streets,    (See 

also  names  of  cities)  54,  82,  124 

Citrus  fruits  103,  184 

Clergy,  restrictions  on,  16 

Climate,  91-94,  117,  165;  invigorating,  91,  94;  of  Chiapas  plateau  146 

Chipperton  Island,  a  story  of,  88-90 

Clothing,  see  Costume 

Coachapa  River 190 

Coal,  absence  of, 190 

Coatlan,  town  of 252 

Coatzacoalcos  River,  73,  74;  infested  by  alligators,  116;  traffic  on, 
148;  fertility  of  region  drained  by,  160;  cacao  culture,   179; 

banana  culture  185 

Cochineal,  former  culture  of 99 

Coco  plum 107 

Coconuts,  96,  103,  187;  rapid  growth  of  palms 103 

Coffee  155,  178,  179 

Cohune  nuts 187 

Comitan,  city  of,  146 

Communications,   transportation  and, 139-153 

Compania  Comercial  de  Puebla  80 

Concubinage  * 133 


316  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Constitutional  provisions  affecting  foreigners  194 

Consulate,  American,  at  Salina  Cruz,  6,  104,  117 

Convent  of  Santo  Domingo,  Tehuantepec  49,  294 

Convento  Hill  76,  191 

Copal  ...183,  284,  299 

Coquitos  de  aceite  187 

Corn,  Indian,  172;  the  destructive  weevil,  173;  manner  of  preparing 

tortillas,  173;  no  grist  mills 174 

Cortez,  Hemando,  news  of  landing  of,  256;  character  of,  262;  appro- 
priates Zapotec  towns,  285;  deprived  of,  287;  obtains  marquis- 
ate,  287 

Cosijoeza,  Zapotec  monarch,  ascends  the  throne,  199;  captures  Te- 
huantepec, 202;  marriage,  217;  attacks  Cuilapan,  255;  submits 

to  Spain,  257-259;  death,  290;  burial,  ,.    291 

Cosijopii,  king  of  Tehuantepec,  birth,  227;  raised  to  the  throne,  241; 
marriage,  243;  visits  oracle  at  Monapoxtiac,  253;  baptism,  283; 

apostasy,  296;  death,  303 

Costume,  female  head-dress,  3,  42,  129,  130;  dress  of  white  Mex- 
icans, 14;  Tehuana  dress,  62,  125;  the  huipil  grande,  69;  male 

Indian  attire,  129;  dress  of  Indian  children 131 

Cotton  tree,  _ 59,   100 

Cowan,  James  123 

Coyolicaltzin,  Zapotec  queen,  appears  to  Cosijoeza,  210;  their  mar- 
riage, 217;  constancy  to  husband,  222;  death, 286 

Crawfish   r 118 

Cubebs 183 

Cucumates  hills,  marbles  of, 191 

Cuilapan,  attacked  by  Cosijoeza,  255;  Princess  Donaji  hostage  at, 

265;  tomb  of  Donaji  269 

Cuitlahuac,  Aztec  captain,  231,  234,  237 

Curassows    _ 115 

Currency,  167;  "infalsificable"  paper  money  168 

Custard  apple  (anona), 105 


Dancing,  among  the  upper  class,  14;  among  the  Zapotecs,  62,  67; 

Malinche  dance  of  Huaves  31 

Dani  Guiati 64,  81,  85,  124 

Dani  Guibedchi 49 

Dani  Ldeza 55,  191 

Date  palms  106 

De  Espinosa,  Alonso,  friar 245 

Deer  110 

Deerskins 81,  110 

Del  Valle,  Eduardo,  referred  to 211 

Delplain,  Mrs.  Laura  K.,  82 

Democratic  spirit  of  the  Mexicans 13 

Diaz,  Felix,  revolutionary  leader,  28 

Diaz,  Porfirio,  of  Zapotec  blood  131 

Didjazaa,  196,  215,  286;  last  native  ruler  of,  292 

Diseases,  yellow  fever,  59;  the  pinta,  137;  malaria,  165 

Dogs,  climate  unsuited  to 56 

Donaji,  Zapotec  heroine,  birth  of,  235;   given   as  hostage  to  the 
Mixtecs,    265;    death,    269;    tomb    of,    269;    mysterious    legend 

respecting  270 


INDEX  317 

Dress,   see   Costume   

Drinking  places   132 

Drinks  _ 61,  132,  179 

Drugs,  papain,  105, 186;  Crescentia  cujete,  172;  balsam  of  Peru,  183; 

cubebs,  183;  licorice  183 

Drunkenness  69,  132 

Dry  dock  at  Salina  Cruz 4,  23 

Duties,  export,  on  leaf  tobacco,  182;  on  timber 189 

Dyes 98,  99 

Dyewoods 98 

Dzahuindanda,  lord  of  Achiutla 201,  255,  266 


Earthquakes   91 

Ebony   189 

Education,  23,  134,  135;  among  the  ancient  Zapotecs  199,  240 

El  Aguila  Co.,  holdings  of 190 

El  Espinal,  town  of  84 

Enchiladas 154 

Encomienda  granted  to  Alvarado  285 

Esteros  of  the  west  coast „ 150 

Exchange    167 

Exploradoras  28,   31 

Export  duties,  on  leaf  tobacco,  182;  on  timber 189 

Exports,  coffee,  5,  179;  dyewoods,  98;  deerskins,  110;  shrimps,  118; 

hides,  23,  170;  papain,  186;  honey,  188;  onyx 192 


Fauna,  see  Animals,  wild  

Festivities,  the  posada,  15;  New  Year's  Eve,  17;  San  Benito's  day, 
17;  Independence  Day,  19;  Good  Friday  at  Tehuantepec,  (See 

also  Dancing)   68 

Fever,  yellow  59 

Fevers,  native  remedies  for 97 

Fiestas,  see  Festivities  

Fish,  116,  118;  sharks 18,  117 

Fisheries,  77;  of  the  great  lagoons 136 

Flax    183 

Flirtation    6 

Floors,  tile  52 

Flora,  see  Flowers;  Fruits;  Trees;  Woods,  tropical  

Floriculture , 61 

Flower  markets 60 

Flowers,  60,  95,  101;  Amistad  del  Dia,  102;  bignonia,  101;  caballero, 
101;  hapanico,  101;  jasmine,  101;  mata  palo  (tree  killer),  102; 

robles,  101;  tempasuchil  101 

Food,  at  hotels,  154;  cheese,  23,  170;  fried  plantains,  104;  lard  of 
the  peccary,  111;  armadillo,  111;  iguana,  116;  fish,  118,  136; 
turtle's  eggs,  118;  tasajo,  169;  milk  and  butter,  170;  corn  the 

great  staple 173 

Foreigners  in  southern  Mexico,  159-165;  Germans,  146;  American 
companies  on  the  Isthmus,  159;  number  (1919),  163;  industrial 
conditions  invite,  163;  drawbacks  to  residence,  165;  constitu- 
tional restrictions  affecting 194 

Fortifications 29 


318  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Fortines  29 

Frankincense  183 

French  blood,  traces  of,  at  Juchitan 87 

Fruits,  103-109;  183-187;  apples,  78;  avocado,  63,  107;  banana,  104, 

185;   citrus  fruits,   184;   coco   plum,   107;   coconuts,   103,   187; 

custard  apple  (anona),  105;  dates,  106;  grape,  107;  grape  fruit, 

184;  haw,  78,   107;   lime,   104;   mango,   84,   104;   orange,   103; 

papaw    (papaya),   105,    185;    peach,   78;    pineapple,    103,    186; 

pitaya,  25;   plantain,   104;   pomegranate,   78,   106;    quince,   78; 

sapodilla  (chico),  98,  105;  sour  sop  (guanabana),  106;  Spanish 

plum,  63;  temperate  zone  fruits,  78,  184;  wild  fig 100 

Fuel,  domestic,  23;  fuel  oil  4 

Furniture  189 

Fustic  .  98 


Gambling,  at  Tehuantepec 69 

Game,  see  Animals,  wild  

Garden  vegetables 109 

Garita  de  Xoxo  262 

German  colonists  of  Soconusco  146,  178 

Ginger   183 

Gourds    99 

Gracida,  Manual,  quoted  207,  247,  249,  270,  290 

Granadillo  189 

Granite    191 

Grape  fruit,  of  the  Coatzacoalcos  valley k 184 

Grapes    „ 107 

Grazing  land,  abundance  of 168 

Green,  Arturo  82 

Guanabana  (sour  sop)  106 

Guanacastle  188 

Guano,  bat  113 

Guapaque   - 188 

Guayacan  (lignum  vitae)  84,  98,  171,  189 

Guixepecocha,    the   246,   251,  253 

Gulabere  (mucilage  tree),  63;  berries  used  in  preparing  indigo 180 


Harbor  works,  at  Salina  Cruz 3 

Harbors  of  west  coast,  5;  port  of  Arista 146 

Hares  Ill 

Harvey,  Clarence  70 

Hats,  see  Head-dress 

Haw,  giant  Mexican  78,  107 

Head-dress  3,  42,  129,  130 

Health,  public  91,  94,  165 

Hedges  25,  63,  92 

Henequin  culture  181 

Hidalgo,  Miguel,  uprising  under  19 

Hides,  23,  170;  deerskins,  110;  calf  skins  169 

Holidays,  see  Festivities  

Honey   188 

Horticulture,  see  Flowers;  Fruits  

Hot  springs  165,  191 


INDEX  319 

Hotel  Salina  Cruz 6,  33,  40,  42,  114,  141,  153 

Hotels,  153-157;  at  Salina  Cruz,  7,  153;  at  Tehuantepec,  56;  at 
Tierra  Blanca  and  Santa  Lucrecia,  145;  menu,  154;  black  beans, 
155;  waiters,  155;  bedrooms,  156;  baths,  156;  politeness  at  table  157 

Huamelula,  town  of 276 

Huaves,  77,  218,  285;  villages  inhabited  by,  136;  celebrate  summer 

solstice  on  Monapoxtiac  250 

Huilotepec,  village  of 11,  77 

Huipil,  upper  garment  of  Zapotec  women  62,  129,  130 

Huipil  grande  , 69 

Humidity,  see  Rainfall  

Hurst,  Morley  33 


Iguanas  116 

Images,  in  Tehuantepec  churches 66,  68 

Incense,  of  copal,  183,  284,  299;  frankincense 183 

India  rubber,  culture  of 180 

Indian  corn  172,  174 

Indian  races  of  the  Isthmus,  120,  122.    And  see  Aztecs;  Chimalapas; 

Chontals;  Huaves;  Mixes;  Mixtecs;  Zapotecs 

Indigo,  culture  of f 99,  180 

Industries  of  southern  Mexico,  159-193;  openings  in  particular  lines, 
166;  brewery  at  San  Geronimo,  166;  tanneries,  170;  furniture 

factories    189 

"Infalsificable"  paper  money  _ 168 

Inquisition,  Office  of  the 245,  303 

Insects,  117;  wood  ticks  56 

Intoxication 69,    132 

Investment,  opportunities  for  159-193 

Iron  ore  deposits  189 

Ironwood    188 

Irrigation  96,     172 

Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec,  geography,  73;  inhabitants  of  119 

Ixcuintepec,  fortress  of  263 

Ixcuitepec,  rock  of  265 

Ixtaltepec,  description  of,  124;  indigo  center,  84,  180;  pottery  indus- 
try at,  84;  bandit  attack  on,  85;  Zapotecan  language  in  com- 
mon use  123 

Ixtle,  suitability  of  for  paper  making  181 


Jaguars  „ 49,  64,  65,  110 

Jalapa,  town  of,  47;  costume  of  females,  130;  cult  of  Pinopaa  at, 

244;  visited  by  Alvarado,  280;  destruction, 281 

Jalisco    (Ariaga) 146 

Jaltepec  River  ... 74,  75 

Jamiltepec,  estate  of  Alvarado  at 285 

Jarana,  an  Indian  musical  instrument  Ill 

Jecapezle 99 

Jewelry  in  common  use  among  Zapotecs 62,  125 

Jicara  (calabash  tree),  96,  172,  189 

Juarez,  Benito  131 

Juchitan,  city  of 86,  131 


320  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Kapok 100 

Kerr,  Graham  M 180 


La  Zacualpa  rubber  plantation  . 180 

Lagoons  of  Pacific  plain,  76,  87;  extent  of,  76;  commercial  possi- 
bilities    150 

Lake  Roaloo  197,    199,  266 

Language,  Spanish,  122,  127,  164;  English  spoken  by  foreigners  of 
Teutonic  race,  164;  Mixtecan,  202;  Nahuatl  or  Aztecan,  138; 

Zapotecan  122,    126,    129,  219 

Laollaga  210,  305 

Lard,  of  the  peccary Ill 

Lawns,  absence  of  ...., 99 

Lemonmeyer,  Gustavo  '. 141 

Leprosy  , 137 

Licorice  183 

Lighthouses,  at  Salina  Cruz,  1;  on  Clipperton  Island  88 

Lignum  vitae  (guayacan)  84,    98,    171,  189 

Lime  making 121 

Limes,  excellence  of  Mexican 104 

Limestone 191 

Liquidamber      183 

Live  stock,  see  Stock  raising 

Lizards    116 

Lumbering,  161,  188;  high  cost  of  lumber  52 


Macaya  188 

Machete,  general  use  of  12 

Madero  of  the  Redemption,  cited  247 

Mahogany  161,  188,  189 

Mahoney,  Jerome  H.,  81,  173;  makes  his  "getaway," 142 

Majada  Range 75 

Manganese ,  190 

Mangoes,  84,  104;  mango  forks 104 

Manley,  Howard  T., 181 

Manners,  Mexican,  10-13,  165;  politeness  at  table,  157;  high  sense 

of  honor 158 

Manta,  the  female  head-dress 3,  130 

Manzanillo,  port  of  5 

Mapastepec,  rubber  plantation  at  181 

Marble  191 

Maria  Sanchez,  Breast  of 260 

Marimba,  a  musical  instrument  14,  15 

Mariscal,  town  of, 146 

Market,  public,  at  Tehuantepec,  60;  at  San  Geronimo,  82;  at  Iztal- 

tepec  125 

Marriage,  costume  worn  at,  by  Indian  women,  130;  laxity 133 

Martinez,  Dr.,  of  Apizaco  39 

Masahua  Range  75 

Measures,  weights  and, 193,  194 

Medieval  conditions  23 


INDEX  321 

Melby,  A.  A., 81,  124 

Menu  at  hotels  154 

Mesquite 189 

Mestizos  10 

Miahuatlan,  city  of,  ....261,  265 

Milk  !  170 

Minatitlan,  city  of,  a  river  port,  148,  160;  oil  refinery  at 148,  190 

Miner  springs  191 

Minerals  of  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec,  189-193;  black  marble  at 

Convento  Hill,  76;  iron  ore,  189;  salt,  190;  onyx, 192 

Miracles,  at  church  of  Santa  Maria,  Tehuantepec  66 

Missionary  societies,  absence  of  135 

Mitla,  desolated  by  Aztecs,  201;  cunning  of  its  inhabitants,  237; 

burial  of  Cosijoeza  at,  291;  abolition  of  ancient  religion  at, 296 

Mixes  75,  137 

Mixtecs,  allies  of  King  Cosijoeza,  202;  war  with  the  Aztecs,  229- 

239;  war  with  the  Zapotecs  255-269 

Mixtequilla,  50;  sugar  factory  at,  178;  derivation  of  name 218 

Moctezuma  (Montezuma),  commands  Aztecs  before  Quiengola,  207; 

ascends  throne  of  Tenochtitlan,  226;  submits  to  Spain 257 

Mogane,  110;  coffee  culture  at,  178 

Monapoxtiac,  isle  of,  24,  64,  88;  pilgrimages  made  to,  137;  oracle 

consulted  by  Cosijopii,  246,  278,  283;  Pecocha  disappears  on, 

249;  summer  solstice  celebrated  on,  250 

Money,  167;  "infalsificable"  paper 168 

Monte  Alban  234,  262,  265 

Morals,  134;  sexual,  70, 132;  intemperance,  69,  132;  honesty,  132,  156,  165 

Mucilage  tree  (gulabere),  63;  used  in  indigo  industry 180 

Music,  14;  among  the  Indians  60,  136 

Musical  instruments,  marimba,  14,  15;  jarana Ill 


Naatipa,   Zapotec  prince,   225,  290 

Nahuilzochitl,  lord  of   Sosola 230,  234 

Names,  personal,  128,  129;   manner  of  bestowing   among  ancient 

Zapotecs 226-228,  235 

Nejapa    203 

New  Year's  at  Salina  Cruz  17 

Newmark,  Meyer,   82 

Newspapers,  absence  of  local,  40,  166;  hotels  do  not  supply 154 

Niltepec,  town  of,  42,  190 

Niza  Rindani,  spring  of, 210 

Northers  2,   92,  104 

Nuts,  pecans,  78;  coconuts,  103;  187;  cohune  nuts 187 


Oak,  Spanish  (robles)  101,  189 

Oaxaca  City,  educational  center,  135;  origin  of  name,  200,  263,  264; 

created  royal  villa,  287;  raised  to  rank  of  city 288 

Oaxaca,  Mountains   of,   1,  196 

Oaxaca,  State  of,  arms  of,  .". 270 

Oaxaca,  Valley  of,  196 

Oaxaquena   plantation    148,  177 

Ocelot   (tigrio)   110 

Oil,  petroleum  4,  148 


322  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Onyx  fields  of  Tequisistlan  192 

Opossums  .... Ill 

Opportunities  for  investment,  159-193;  factories,  166,  189;  tanneries  170 

Oracle  at  Monapoxtiac  246,  284 

Oranges   103,  184 

Orchestras  in  churches  60 

Orozco,  Francisco  de,  Spanish  captain  263,  265 

Ostuta  River  87 


Pacific  plains  of  the  Isthmus,  76,  171;  climate 91-94 

Paganism,  survivals  of  137,  250 

Palo  Blanco  189 

Palo  mulato  (Balsa  wood)  96,  149 

Pan-American  railway 80,    139,  146 

Panela  (crude  sugar)   176 

Papain,  drug  obtained  from  the  papaw  _ 105,  186 

Papaw  105,    185,  186 

Paper  pulp,  available  material  for 181 

Parkins,  Charles  A.,  31,  39,  58,  79,  140;  sage  reflections  of, 141,  188 

Parks  , 6,    60,  69 

Passion  play  at  Tehuantepec  68 

Pearl  beds  118 

Pecans   78 

Peccaries    Ill 

Pecocha,  legandary  prophet  of  Zapotecs 247-251 

Pepper,  154,  174,  183;  use  at  table 154 

Periodicals,  absence  of  local 40  166 

Petela,  Zapotec  patriarch  201,  252 

Petroleum  refinery,  at  Minatitlan  148,  190 

Pezelao,  Oracle  of  Heaven  246,    252,  178 

Phonolite    '. 

Pictured  rocks,  near  San  Geronimo,  64,  85;  at  Tehuantepec, 65 

Pierson  station 140 

Pilgrimages   55,     137,  250 

Pine  forests  of  Chimalapas  189 

Pineapples  103,    186,  187 

Pinopaa,  Zapotec  princess,  birth,  227;  death,  243;  cult  of,  at  Jalapa  244 

Pinta,  a  species  of  leprosy 137 

Pinates,  at  Christmas  time  15 

Pinon  (tropical  birch),  63 

Piqui   (ironwood) 188 

Pitao,  the  Supreme  Being 251 

Pitaya,  fruit  of  a  cactus  25 

Plain  of  the  Widow  285 

Plant  life  95-109 

Plantains,  fried  104 

Plantations,  American,  on  the  Isthmus,  159-162 

Plum,  Spanish 63 

Pochutla,  city  of,  center  of  coffee  district,  179;  Alvarado  visits,  276; 

Mr.  Popenoe  visits 108 

Politeness  of  Mexicans,  10-13;  of  bandits,  36,  43 

Political  rights  of  Indians  136 

Pomegranates  78,  106 

Popenoe,  Mr 108 

Porphyry   - 191 


INDEX  323 

Ports,  Puerto  Angel,  1;  Salina  Cruz,  1-5,  93;  Puerto  Mexico,  3,  148; 
Acapulco,  5;  Manzanillo,  5;   Mazatlan,  5;  Puerto  Arista,  146, 

147;  Minatitlan  148 

Posada,  a  Christmas  festivity  15 

Postal   service  152 

Potatoes 78,  109 

Pottery  industry  125,  136,  167 

Prehistoric  relics  50 

Preserves,  Spanish  plum,  63;  coco  plum,  107;  giant  haw 107 

Priests,  restrictions  on,  16 

Prostitution,  not  common  among  Indians 133 

Puerto  Angel,  port  of  Pochutla,  1;  coffee  exported  from, 179 

Puerto  Arista  146,    147,  151 

Puerto  Mexico,  city  of, 3,   139,  148 

Pumas 110 

Punta  de  Aguas 143 


Quehuiquijepaa,  the,  of  Tectipac 199 

Quetzalcoatl,  monument  ascribed  to  246,  251 

Quiegolani 203,  267 

Quiengola,  Mt,  46,  64;  bat  caves  of,  113;  defense  of 203 


Railroads,  139;  144,  146,  151;  Pan-American  line,  139,  146;  Tehuan- 
tepec National,  139,  151;  the  Vera  Cruz  al  Istmo,  144;  absence 
of  dining  cars,  145;  branch  from  Tonala  to  Puerto  Arista,  146; 

projected,  from  Oaxaca  City  to  San  Geronimo  192 

Rainfall,  91,  92,  94;  at  Tonala,  147 

Real  estate  investments,  by  Americans 159 

Reboso,  the  native  head-dress 130 

Refajp   (wrapper)    78,     129 

Religion,  16,  dress  of  the  clergy,  16;  condition  of  the  church,  54; 
alleged  miracles,  66;  baptisms,  70;  faith  of  the  ancient  Zapo- 
tecs,  247-253;  the  prophet  Pecocha,  247-251;  ancient  gods,  251- 
253;  priesthood,  296;  form  of  worship,  299;  present  faith  of 

Indians,  135;  relics  of  ancient  faith  137 

Reptiles 116,     117 

Revolutionists,  elements  from  which  recruited  28 

Rice    174,     183 

Rio  de  los  Mijes  75 

Rio  de  Perros  80,     86 

River  traffic  148-150 

Rivers:  Coatzacoalcos,  73;  of  Pacific  plain,  77,  80,  87;  of  the  high- 
lands   197 

Roads,  wagon,  151;  gullied  by  the  winds  93 

Roaloo,  Lake, 197,    199,    266 

Rock  paintings,  near  San  Geronimo,  64,  85;  at  Tehuantepec,  65; 

ascribed  to  Pecocha  248 

Romero,  Dona  Juana,  of  Tehuantepec,  58;  endows  schools  at  Te- 
huantepec   135 

Roofs,  tile  52 

Rosewood    189 

Rubber  culture  180 

Ruins  of  Quiengola 

Rye,  grown  in  Chiapas  146,     183 


324  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Salina  Cruz,  city  of,  1-26;  lighthouse,  1;  waterworks,  3,  71;  harbor 
works,  3;  tides,  4;  dry  dock,  4;  traffic,  5;  hotels,  7;  153;  popu- 
lation, 10;  winds,  93;  American  consulate,  104;  harbor  dredging, 

115;  cable  station  at  153 

Salinas  del  Marquez  190 

Salinas,  Lie.  M.  Garfia,  18,  130;  mistaken  for  bishop  of  Tehuantepec  85 

Salt  flats  190,  305 

San  Benito's  Day  17 

San  Bias,  town  of,  59,  78;  barbecue  at, 79 

San  Cristobal  de  Las  Casas  146 

San  Geronimo,  city  of,  80-84;  terminus  of  Pan  American  railway, 

146;  brewery  at,  166 

San  Juan  Guichicovi  1..75,  137 

San  Miguel   137 

Sanate,  a  Mexican  bird 114 

Sandals    130,  170 

Santa  Anita  262 

Santa  Lucrecia,  village  of,  74,  144 

Santa  Maria  Chimalapa  103,  137 

Santa  Maria  Guiniaguata,  29;  jecapezle  industry  at,  99;  silk  indus- 
try at  129 

Santa  Maria,  Tehuantepec,  31;  hill  chapels,  55;  church  at, 66 

Santo  Domingo,  convent  of,  at  Tehuantepec,  294,    299,  305 

Sapodilla  (chico)  105,  188 

Sarsaparilla   182 

Sassafras    183 

Satinwood    189 

Scavengers   56,  113 

Schools,  23,  134,  165;  private,  at  Tehuantepec  135 

Seasons,  dry  and  rainy  91-94 

Seismic  disturbances  91 

Sexual  morality,  among  the  Indians  132 

Sharks   18,  116 

Shrimps    , 118 

Shufeldt  expedition,  referred  to,  49,  73,  130,  150;  members  of,  bitten 

by  vampires  113 

Shufeldt  nee  Harvey,  Guendolina  70 

Sickness,  yellow  fever,  59;  native  remedies,  97;  malaria,  165;  pinta, 

137;  healthful  climate  91,  165 

Silk  culture,  at  Santa  Maria  Guiniaguata 129 

Sisal 181 

Soap,  nuts  used  in  manufacture  of,  187;  used  by  the  ancients 211 

Sobrino,  Pedro,  early  priest  at  Jalapa  245 

Social  functions,  see  Festivities  

Social  life,  in  Salina  Cruz,  14-17;  at  Tehuantepec 61,   62,   67 

Social  reform,  need  of  125 

Soconusco,  district  of,  204;  great  coffee  region  178 

Soldiers,  Mexican  20 

Sombreros    129 

Soup  sop,  (guanabana)  106 

Spaniards,  few  on  the  Isthmus,  119;  none  at  Tehuantepec 51 

Spanish  language,  use  of,  123;  telegraph  messages  to  be  sent  in, 

152;  best  method  of  learning,  164 

Spices,  cinnamon,  155,  183;  pepper, 174,  183 

Springs,  hot,  191;  at  Laollaga    210,  305 


INDEX  325 

Stock  raising,  168-170;  goats,  22;  burros,  24;  pasture  lands,  145, 

168;  cattle,  168;  tasajo  169 

Stone,  building,  191;  phonolite,  2;  marble  at  Convento  Hill,  (See 

also  names  of  stones)   76 

Story,  John  71 

Stoves,  primitive  nature  of  157 

Sugar,  175-178;  methods  of  production,  176;  panela,  176;  the  Oaxa- 

quena  plantation,  177;  culture  on  Pacific  plains, 177 

Syenite  191 

Syrians,  at  Salina  Cruz,  10;  at  Tehuantepec  51 


Tamarind   61 

Tanneries,  native  170 

Tapachula,  city  of  146 

Tapirs    112 

Tarifa  plateau 75 

Tarifa,  red  hematite  at  „ 190 

Tariff,  customs,  see  Duties,  export 

Tea,  use  of 155 

Tectipac   199 

Tehuana,  term  defined  17 

Tehuanos   51 

Tehuantepec,  city  of,  45-57;  government  building  at,  32;  founded  by 
the  Huaves,  46;  strategic  location,  46,  77;  origin  of  name,  49, 
278;  cemetery,  58;  population,  51;  streets  and  sidewalks,  54; 
churches,  54;  market  place,  60;  plaza  of,  60;  park  at,  69; 

limestone  quarries   191 

Tehuantepec  River  45,  77 

Tejan   (Coatimondi),   Ill 

Telegraph   lines   152 

Telephones    23,  153 

Temperature   91,    92,  94 

Tequisistlan,  battle  near,  281;  onyx  fields  of  

Thermal    springs 191 

Tides,  at  Salina  Cruz,  4;  in  the  great  lagoons 77 

Tierra   Blanca   144,  145 

Tiger  Hill  (Dani  Guibedchi) 49,  64 

Tigrio    (ocelot) ,   110 

Tilantongo,  prince  of  269,  292 

Tile,  extensive  use  of 52 

Titles,  personal  128 

Tlacochcalcatl,   Aztec  leader,   201 

Toads  117 

Tobacco  181 

Tonala,  city  of,  147;  port  of  Arista  ~ 146 

Tonameca - 276 

Tortillas,  the  Mexican  staff  of  life  173 

Transportation,  139-152;  troop  trains,  28;  dangers  incident  to,  144; 
between  Chiapas  plateau  and  littoral,  147;  river  traific,  148, 
160;  along  coastal  lagoons,  150;  wagon  roads,  151;  absence 
of  bridges,  151;  Vera  Cruz  al  Istmo  Ry.,  162;  by  ox  cart,  169; 

upper  Tehuantepec  valley 192 

Travel,  dangers  incident  to,  144;  necessity  of  carrying  lunch  baskets  145 


326  THE  MEXICAN  SOUTHLAND 

Trees,  96-108,  171,  172,  188,  189;  almond,  100;  balsa-wood,  97;  bam- 
boo, 63;  Brazilwood,  98;  cacao,  179;  calabash  (jicara),  96;  coco- 
nut, 96;  copalchi,  97;  cotton  tree,  59,  100;  cypress,  97;  jicara, 
172;  lambimbo,  100;  lignum  vitae,  84,  96,  98,  100;  logwood,  98; 
mesquite,  96;  mucilage  tree  (gulabere),  63;  pine,  97;  pinon 
(tropical  birch),  63;  rosewood,  96;  rubber  tree,  101;  shade  trees, 
100;  Spanish  oak,  97;  tamarind,  61;  wild  cotton,  59,  100;  wild 
fig,  100;  zapote  (sapodilla),  (See  also  Flowers;  Fruits,  Woods, 

tropical)    97,     105 

Troop  trains   28 

Tuna  de  Espana  99 

Turtle's  eggs  118 

Tututepec,  Spanish  colony  established  at,  274;  colony  abandoned, 

286;  Indian  revolt  (1523)  288 

Tuxtla   Gutierrez,    city   of,    146;    marimbas   manufactured   at,    15; 

jecapezle  industry  at  99 

Typewriters,  carried  by  traveling  salesmen 154 


Upper  Lagoon,  24,  76,  77;  rivers  entering,  87;  commercial  possi- 
bilities, 150;  salt  marshes  of 191 


Vanilla   182 

Vegetables,  garden  109 

Ventosa  Bay  45,  77 

Vera  Cruz,  starting  point  for  the  Isthmus  144 

Verde  River,  87;  thermal  springs  on, „ 191 

Volcanic   activity  90 

Vows,  performance  of  55 


Wages,  for  common  labor  171 

Wagon  roads  151 

Waiters,  Indian,  155 

Water-carriers,  burro   57 

Waterfowl  114,  150 

Waterpower  189 

Wedding  costume,  of  the  Tehuanas 130 

Weights  and  measures  193,  194 

Wheat   183 

Windmills    172 

Winds,  2,  92-94;  ravines  caused  by,  92;  protection  of  crops  from,  92 

Wine    107 

Wood   ticks   56 

Woods,  tropical,  96-98,  188,  189;  dyewoods,  (See  also  Fruits,  Trees)  98 


Xocuapa  River  87 

Xunirahui,  a  natural  landmark  2 


Yanhuitlan  236,    237 


INDEX  327 

Zaachila  I,  Zapotec  monarch  197 

Zaachila  III,  Zapotec  monarch,  199 

Zaachila,  city  of,  foundation,  197;  present  aspect,  198;  taken  by  the 

Mixtecs, 260 

Zapotecan  language  122-127,  129,  219 

Zapotecs,  120-136;  physical  characteristics,  51,  120,  121;  beauty  of 
women,  51,  67,  121;  a  hairy  race,  62;  costume,  62,  69,  125; 
129,  130;  intemperance,  69,  132;  not  hunters,  110;  nor  fisher- 
men, 118;  present  numbers,  120;  agricultural  race,  121;  racial 
vigor,  122;  language  of,  122-129;  military  qualities,  131;  mental 
qualities,  131;  honesty,  132,  156,  167;  sexual  morality,  133; 
simplicity  of  women,  134;  moral  traits,  134;  rise  of,  196;  gods 

of  the  ancient,  251-253;  priesthood,  296;  public  worship 299 

Zeetobaa,  queen  of  Tehuantepec  304,    343 

Zopilotes  (buzzards),  113;  favorite  roosting  place  58 


I 


